
Class Jiil2X 
Book 



\QS4- 



'^:i,L^^t^'-„ 



SIXTH THOUSAND. 



TJliS 



AECTIC EEaiONS: 

BEING AK ACOOUXT OF THB '^^^^mif^ 

AMERICAN EXPEDITION 




IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, 

UNDER THE PATEONAGE OF 

HENRY GRINNELL, Esq. . 

OP NE^r YORK, 

^_____ ' >■» 

Miserable they, 
Who here entangled in r.he gaihering ice, 
Take their last look of the descending sun. 

COWFSS. 



AUBURIT AND BUFFALO: 

MILLER, ORTON vfe MULLIGAN. 

1854. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by 

GEO. n. DERBY AND CO. 

b the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Northern Dittriid 

of New York, 



AUBURN : 

MILLER, ORTON & MULLIGAN, 
6TEEE0TYPEKS AND PKINTEKS. 



TO 



aENRY GRINNELL, ESQ., 

THIS FIRST AMERICAN EDITION 

OF 

HB JOHH FEANEXIN A2TD THE AECTIO EEGIOISrS, 

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY HIS 

HUMBLE SERVANTS, 

THE PUBLISHERS. 



PUBLISHERS' NOTICE 

Tlie explorations of the Arctic Regions, made during the last 
three centuries, have been prompted by the most commendable 
spirit, and have called into requisition, and strikingly developed, 
traits 6^ character of a high order. The Arctic navigators have 
usually been men of extreme daring, wonderful perseverance 
and sublime fortitude ; and a digest of their heroic toils in the 
path of geographical discovery, abounds with scientific facts, 
and examples of manly courage and exalted virtues, potential 
in their nature, and highly salutary in their tendency. 

These considerations have impressed us with the importance 
of republishing this work. But as the English edition contains 
but slight reference to American enterprise and zeal in the 
search for the long absent ships, under the commana of Sii 
John Franklin, we have deemed it proper to add an account of 
the expedition sent out under the patronage of Henry Grinnell, 
Esq., who is doing more than any other man in our country to 
entitle modern merchants to the appellation given to those of 
Tyre, in her best days — "the honorable of the earth." The 
account of the expedition which he sent out, is copied from 
Lossing's article, in Harper's New Monthly Magazine. The other 
additional matter will, we trust, be found pertinent, entertaining, 
and valuable. The work, in its present form, must, we feel 
assured, meet the approval of a discriminating public 



PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. 

TiiK desire for information, felt all over this country, and, indeed, 1 
mAj E.li.«ost say throughout the civilized world, respecting the fate of the 
missing expedition under Sir John Franklin, is very great, and continues 
to becotne more and more intense, as the lapse of time lessens the proba- 
bility of their return in safety. The large number of individuals now 
engaged in prosecuting the search for them in the arctic regions, and the 
deep anxiety manifested by the friends' and relatives whom these fre^h 
explorers have left behind, has turned the attention of thousands to this 
inhospitable and comparatively little known quarter of the globe, serving 
to lend an added interest to every book descriptive of the polar seas and 
shores. 

Among the pubKcations which have from time to time appeared, there 
seems to have been no popular han-ative, especially treating of the voy- 
ages and journeys of discovery and research prosecuted in the nineteenth 
century toward the l>rorth Pole, embracing accounts of all the recent 
public and private searching expeditions after the lost ships, and adapted 
m price to the bulk of the community who so eagerly seek information. 
To meet this want I have been induced, at the solicitation of my pub- 
lishers, to undeilake the compilation of the following work, in which I 
have brought into one view all that is really impoilant to be known by 
those who desire to form a correct opinion of the present state of the 
case, and to make themselves acquainted with what has really been done j 
in the progress of discovery for a northwest passage, and -^hat measures \ 
have been adopted for the reUef of our imprisoned seamen. Much of th&f 
material thus condensed is to be found scattered through a variety of ' 
publications, huge and expensive quarto volumes of voyages, now scarce 
or out of print, parliamentaiy papers and returns, foreign journals, &c., 
but the largest portion of this information is entirely new. In condensing 
from the voluminous Blue Books on this subject that have been published 
during the last few years, my chief object has been, avoiding rash and 
speculative opinion, to direct'the reader's attention as much as possible to 
matters of fact ; to place before him all that is really practical, important, 
and interesting, and especially to put him in possession of what is known 
of the result of the recent voyages, and the latest position and intended 
plan of operations of the numerous vessels at present out on the search 
for the Erebus and TeiTor. 

In putting myself in communication with those best informed on the 
subject of which this volume treats, I have to acknowledge myself 
deeply indebted for much polite attention and valuable information to 
Lady Franklin and her niece Miss Cracroft, to John BaiTow, Esq., of the 
Admiralty, to Capt. Beecher, R. N., the talented editor of the N'autical 
Magazine, to Commander C. C. Forsyth, R. N., and to Dr. Shaw, the Sec- 
retary of the Royal Geographical Society of London. 
In conclusioHj'^I may state that, as the son and grandson of very olf" 



VI P K E F A C E . 

Lieutenants in the Royal 'Nary, having been originally in the service 
myself, having five brothers afloat, and a large number of other relatives 
holding her Majesty's commission, I feel a deep professional interest in 
hearing tidings of the safety of Sir John Franklin and his gallant com- 
rades, and am but too happy to aid in satisfying the public desire for 
information, by contributing my mite in the publication of the following 
narrative of voyages and travels in the arctic regions, with the appended 
suggestions and opinions of experienced officers and competent parties. 
> To the intrepid veteran and navigator, whose name figures so frequently 
and so honorably in these pages, I hope we may yet be able to apply, 
with the few slight verbal alterations I have made, the following lines, 
which were originally addressed to Dr. Leichardt, who, after two years* 
absence on ajourney through the unexplored regions of Australia, returned 
to Sidney, when all hopes of his safety had been given up, and his dirge 
had been sung by his friends. That bold traveler is again absent on a 
second journey in the interior of that vast continent, and has not been 
heard of for more than two years. May Heaven grant to each and all of 
our care-worn travelers by sea and land a speedy deliverance from the 
perils which environ them, and a safe return to their friends and native 
country — a wish to which all my readers will, I am sure, most heartily 
respond, " So mote it be ! " 

" Thy footsteps have returned again, thou wanderer of the wild, 
Where Nature from her northern throne in silent beauty smiled. 
Pilgrim of mighty wastes, untrod by human foot before, 
Triumphant o'er Frost's wilderness, thy weary journey 's o'er. 

Thou hast battled with the dangers of the iceberg and the flood, 
And amid the crystal desert a conquerer hast stood ; 
Thou hast triumphed o'er the perils of the glacier and the main, 
And a nation's smiling welcome is the greeting home again. 

Long had we mourn'd with sorrowing, and plaintive dirges sung, 

For fate a •ndld, mysterious vail around thy name had flung ; 

And hope's dechning energies with feeble eftbrt strove 

Against the boding voice of fear that haunts the heart of love. 

And Rumor with her hundred tongues, her vague and blighting breatl\ 

Had whispered tidings sad and drear, dark tales of blood and death ; 

Till tortured fancy ceased to hope, and all despairing gave 

Thy name a haUow'd memory — thy bones a polar grave. 

But no ! that proud, intrepid heart still held its purpose high, 
Like Afric's martyr traveler, resolved to do or die ; 
, Like him to find a lonely grave, in desert lands of flame, 

Or win a bright eternity of high and glorious fame ! 

Oft amid famine, danger, death, when meaner spirits quaU'd, 
Have thy unfailing energies to cheer and soothe prevail'd ; 
For weU thy hope-inspiring voice could speak of perDs past, 
And bid each coming one appear less painful than the last. 

And oft e'en that brave heart of thine has sadden'd to despair, ^ 
When o'er some wild and ice-clad scene, the sunlight shining Mr 
Hath bid thy softened spirit feel how lonely was thy lot. 
To die, thy mission unfulfill'd, miknovvn, unwept, forgot. 

Proud man ! in after ages the story shall be told. 

Of that advent'rous voyager, the generous, the bold, 

Who, scorning hope of selfish gain, disdaining soft repose. 

Went forth to trace a pathway through \myielding ice and snows." 

P. L. SIMMOjSTDS. 
5 Barge-Yard, City, 



CONTENTS. 

Introduction to the American Edition '. 7 

Introductory Remarks, 25 

Little Imovm of the Arctic Regions — Notice of Capt. Phipps' Voyage — ^Parry's ana 
Franklin's opinions on a northwest passage — Abstract of Sir John Barrow's works on 
Arctic Discovery — England's neglect of her nautical heroes- 
Captain S'ir John Ross's Voyage in the Isabella and Alexander to 

Hudson's Bay in 1818 37 

Names of the ofiScers and men — Ships -visited by the natives of Greenland — Abim- 
dance of birds on this coast — Gale of wind — Red snow — Lancaster Sound — The fabu- 
lous Croker mountauis — Agnes monument — Large bear shot — Return home. 

Voyage of Buchan and Franklin in the Dorothea and Trent, to 
Spitzbergen, (fee, 1818, ..., _.45 

Names of officers and complement, &o. — ^Fanciful appearance of icebergs — Ships 
arrive at Spitzbergen — Anchor in Magdalen Bay — Hanging icebergs — Immense flocks 
of birds — Dangerous ascent of Rotge IILU — Attack of walruses — Surprised by unlooked- 
for visitors — 13evout feeling of recluses — Expedition puts to sea again — Party lose 
themselves on the ice — Ships damaged by the pressure of the floes — Dangerous position 
of the ships — They take refuge in the main pack of icebergs — Vessek put into Fair 
Haven to stop leaks and refit — Return home. 

Franklin's First Land Expedition, 1819-21 , 6X 

Party leave England in the Prince of Wales — Reach Hudson's Bay fkctory by tho 
end of August — Proceed by the rivers and lakes to Cumberland House — Arrive at Fort 
Chipewyan after a winter journey of 857 miles — Engage voyageurs and guides — Make 
the acquaintance of Akaitcho, the Indian chief— Push on for Fort Enterprise, which 
is made their winter residence after a voyage of 563 miles — Exploring excursions car- 
ried on during the winter — " Green Stockings," the Indian beauty — Stores and Esqui- 
maux interpreters arrive — Severity of the winter — Sufferings of the Indians — Party 
set out for the Polar Sea — Examine the coast westward of Point Turnagain — Dreadful 
hardships and sufferings endured on their return journey, from famine and fatigue — 
Death of several of the party — Mr. Hood is murdered by Michel the Iroquois, who, 
for their mutual safety, is killed by Dr. Richardson — Hunger and famine endured by 
the party — Their ultimate relief. 

Parry's First Voyage in the Hecla and Griper, 1819-20, 85 

Names of officers serving, &c. — Enter Lancaster Soimd — The Croker mountains 
prove to be fallacious — Parry discovers and enters Regent Inlet — Also discovers and 
names^ various islands, capes, and channels — Reaches MehdUe Island — Expedition cross 
the meridian of llO*' W., and become entitled to the Parliamentary reward of £5000 
— Drop anchor for the first time — Land on the island — Abundance of animals found — 
An exploring party lose themselves for three days, but are recovered and brought 
back — Vessels get into winter-quarters — A MS. newspaper published — amateur plays 
performed — ObserA^atory destroyed by fire — Scurvy makes its appearance — Crews put 
on short allowance — An excursion of a fortnight made to examine tbt island — Shipg get 
•lear of the ice — But are unable to make further progress to the westward, and their 
taturn to England is determined on. 



Vlii CONTENTS. 

Parry's Second Voyage in the Fury and Heck, 1821-23 101 

His opinion as to a northwest passage — ^Make Resolution island, at the entrance of 
Hudson's Strait^ — Dangers ot the ice — Fall in mth Hudson' sBay Company's ships, and 
emigrant vessel, with Dutch colonists proceeding to Red River — Two immense bears 
killed — Description of the Esquimaux — Surveys made of all the indentations and coasts 
of this locaUty — Ships driven back by the cm-rent and drift-ice-^Take up their winterT 
quarters — And resort to theatrical amusements again — Schools established — Great 
severity of the winter — Surveying operations resumed — InteUig'ent Esquimaux female 
affords valuable hydrographical information — Perilous position of the Hecla — Her 
miraculous release — Ships pass their second M-inter at Igloolik-^The Fury and Hecla 
Strait examined — Ice breaks up — Ships driven about by the current for thirty-five 
days — At last gain the Atlantic and make for England. 

Clavering's Voyage to Spitzbergen and Greenland in the Griper, 
1823-.... 126 

Conveys out Capt. Sabine to make observations — Reach Spitzbergen — Proceed thenca 
to Pendulum Islands — Northeastern coast of Greenland surveyed — Captain Clavering 
and a party of nineteen men carry on an exploring expedition for a fortnight — Meet 
with a tribe of Esquimaux — Ship puts to sea — Make for the coast of Norway — Anchor 
in Drontheim Fiord — Observations being completed, ship returns to Englaiid. 

Lyon's Voyage in the Griper, 128 

Is sent to survey and examine the straits and shores of Arctic America — Arrives in 
the channel known as Roe's Welcome — Encoimters a terriiic gale — Is in imminent dan- 
ger in the Bay of Gods Mercy — Sufiers from another fearful storm — The ship being 
quite crippled, and ha\-ing lost all her anchors, &c., is obUged to return home. 

Pane's Third Voyage in the Heck and Fuiy, 1824-25 130 

Names and number of the officers, &c. — Hecla laid on her broadside by the ice — 
Ships reach Lancaster Sound — Enter Regent Inlet and wnter at Port Bowen — Dreary 
char'j-'ter of the arctic winter — Former amusements T\'orn threadbare — Polar Bal 
Masqcs got up — Exploring parties sent out inland and along the coast — Ships are 
releasee, but beset by the ice, and carried by the pack down the inlet — Fury driven ou 
shore and abandoned — Return voyage necesf^rily determmed on — Scarcity of animal 
food in this locality — Hecla arrives at Peterhead — ^Parry's opinions of the northwest 



Frank^n's Second Land Expedition, 1825-26 137 

Names of the officers accompanying him — Arrive in New York and proceed through 
the Hudson's Bay Company's territories — Winter at Fort Franklin on Great Bear 
Lake — A pioneer party proceeds to examine the state of the Polar Sea — Return and 
pass the long winter — Descend the Mackenzie in the spring — Party di-i-ide ; Franklin 
and Back proceeding to the westward, while Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendal, &c., 
follow the Coppermine Riier — Franldin encounters a fierce tribe of Esquimaux at the 
sea — After a month's survey to the eastward, Franklin and his party retrace their steps 
— Find Richardson and Kendal had returnd before them, after reaching and explor- 
ing Dolphin and Union Strait — Another \'v-inter spent at Fort Franklin — ^Intensity of 
the cold— Large collection of objects of natural history made by Mr. Drummond — 
Franklin's struggle between affection and duty— Party return to England. 

Captain Beeehey's Voyage to Behring's Strait in the Blossom, 
1825-26 140 

Anchors off Petropaulowsld — Receives intelligence of Parry's safe return — ^Interview 
wit)' the natives — Correct hydrographical descriptions given by the Esquimaux- 
Ship s boat pushes on to the eastward as far as Point Barrow, to communicate with 
Frankfin — Crew in danger from the natives — Obliged to return to their ships — The 
Blossom proceeds to the Pacific, to replenish her provisions — Returns to Kotzebue 
Sound in the summer — Ship grounds ou a sand-bank, but is got off— Boat sent out to 
learn tidings of Franklin, is viTecked— Crew come into colli.sion with hostile natives, 
and are wounded ; picked up by the ship— Dispatches left for Franldin, and the bh^ 
returns to England. 



CONTENTS. IX 

PaiTy 's Fourtli or Polar Voyage in the Hecla, 1827 . . . ^ 144 

Plans and suggestions of Scoresby, Beaufby and Franklin for traveling in sledges 
over the ice — Names of the officers employed — Ship embarks reindeer on the Norway 
coast — Experiences a tremendous gale — Beset by ice for a month — Anchors at Spitz- 
bergen — Sledge-boats prepared for the ice jovirney — Description of them — Night 
ttlrned into day — Slow progress — Occupations of the party — Lose groimd by the 
southward drift of the ice — Bear shot — Notices of animals seen — Reach northernmost 
known land — The islet named after Ross — Return to the ship — Parry's subsequent 
suggestions on tliis mode of traveling — Sir John Barrow's comments thereon — Opin- 
ions of this perilous ice journey — Review of Parry's arctic servioes. 

Captain John Ross's Second Voyage in the Victory, 1829-33.- 155 

Ross seeks official employment from the Admiralty on another arctic voyage — is re- 
fused — Funds are furnished by Mr. Felix Booth — The Victory steamer purchased — 
Engages Ms nephew, Commander James Ross, as his second in command — List of 
other officers— Ship encounters a gale, and is obliged to put into Holsteijiberg to refit 
'—Proceed on their voyage — Enter Lancaster Sound and Regent Inlet^Reach Fury 
Beach — Fiad abundance of stores there, and preserved meat in excellent condition — 
Replenish their stock — Proceed down the Inlet — Perils of the ice — Vessel secured in 
Felix Harbor for the winter — Esquimaux %isit the ship — Furnish very correct sketches 
of the coast — '^-ommander James Ross makes many excursions inland -and along the 
bays and mlets — Explores Ross's Strait, and pushes on to King William's Land — Diffi- 
culty of distinguishing land from sea — Reaches Point Victory and turns back — Ship 
gets clear of the ice, after eleven months' imprisonment, but in a week is again frozen 
131, and the party are detained during another severe winter — Further discoveries made, 
and Commander Ross pLants the British flag on the north magnetic pole — ^In August, 
1831, the ship is warped out, an* makes sail, but after beating about for a, month, is 
again frozen in ; and rather than spend a fourth winter, there being no prospect of 
releasing the ship, she is abandoned, and the crew make for Fury Beach — Provisions 
and boats taken on with great labor — Party erect a canvas hut, which they name Som- 
erset House — In a month, the boats being prepared for the voyage, the party embark, 
and reach the mouth of the inlet — Barrow"s Strait is found one compact mass of ice— 
They are obliged to tall back on the stores at Fury Beach to spend their fourth winter^ 
Placed on short allowance — Li the spring they again embark in their boats and succeed 
in reaching Lancaster Sound — Fall in with whalers — Are received on board the Isabella, 
Captain Ross's old ship — Arrive home — Public rejoicings for their safety — Rewards 
granted — Resume of Captain John Ross's services. 

in Back's Land Journey in search of Ross, 1833-34 168 

Attention called to the missing expedition by Dr. Richardson — Plans of relief sug- 
gested — Pubhc meeting held to consider the best measures — Ample funds raised — Capt. 
Back volunteers — Leaves England with Dr. King — Voyageurs and guides, &c., engaged 
in Canada — Party push through the northwest country — Dreadfid sufferings from 
insect pests — Reach Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake — Motley description of the 
travelers and their encampment — Arrangements are completed, and the joiu-ney in 
search of the Great Fish River commenced — Frightful nature of the precipices, rap- 
ids, falls, ra\ines, &c. — Meet with old acquaintances — Obliged to return to their winter 
quarters — Dreadful sufferings of the Indians — Fanune and intense cold — Noble conduct 
of Akaitcho, the Indian chief— News received of Captain Ross's safe return to England 
— Franklin's faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, endeavoring to join Back, is 
frozen to death — A fresh journey toward the sea is resolved on — Provisions for three 
months taken — ^Indian encampment — Green Stockings, the beauty— Interview with the 
chief, Aloutcho — Arduous and perilous progress toward the sea — Pilformg propensi- 
ties of the Indians — Meet with a large friendly tribe of Esquimaux — Reach the sea, 
and proceed along the coast to the eastward, unable to arrive at the Pomt Turnagain 
of Franklin — Privations of the party on their return journey — Difficulties encountered 
in re-ascendmg the river — Reach Fort Reliance after four months' absence — Pass the 
winter there — Captain Back arrives in England in September, after an absence of 
two years and a half— Dr. Eling follows him in the Hudsons Bay spring ships. 

Back's Voyage in the Terror up Hudson's Strait, 1 836 186 

Ship arrives at Salisbury Island — Proceeds up Frozen Strait — ^Is blocked up by the 
ice, and driven about powerless for more than six months — Cast on her beam enda 
for three days— From the crippled state of the ship and the insurmountable difficulties 
7f the navigation, the return to England is determined on — Summary of Captain 
Back's arctic services. 



Capta 



CONTENTS. 

'8. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries on the coast of Arctic 
America, 1836-39 1S7 

Descend the Mackenzie to the sea — Survey the western part of the shores of North 
America from Return Reef to Cape Barrow— Discover two new rivers, the Garry 
and Colville — After reaching Elson Bay, return to winter at Fort Confidence, on Great 
Bear Lake — Survey resumed in the ensuing spring — Dangerous rapids on the Copper- 
mine river — Encamp at its mouth — Copper ore found here — Victoria Land discovered 
and 110 miles of new coast traced — Re-ascent of the Coppermine commenced — Boats 
abandoned, and the Barren grounds traversed on foot — Spend another winter at Fort 
Confidence — The following season a tliird voyage commenced — Richardson's River 
•xamined — Coronation Gulf found clear of ice — Coast survey to the eastward prose- 
cuted — Simpson's Strait discovered— Back's Estuary reached— Deposit of provisions 
made by Back five years previous, found — Aberdeen Island, the extreme point reached 
—Parts of coasts of Boothia and Victoria Land traced — One of the boats abandoned — 
Descent of the Coppermine, and safe arrival at Fort Confidence. 

Dr. John Eae's Land Expedition, 1846-47 192 

Hudson's Bay Company dispatch Rae and a party of thirteen men to complete the 
survey between Dease and Simpson's furthest, and the Fury and Hecla Strait — Expe- 
dition leaves Fort Churchill — Reaches Wager River — Boats taken across Rae's Isthmus 
— Winter residence constructed — Short commons — West shore of MehlUe Peninsula, 
&c., examined — Party return to their encampment, and proceed to Fort Churchill — 
Gratuity of je400 awarded to Dr. Rae. 

Captain Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition in the Erebus and 
Terror, 1845-51 196 

Probability of the safety of the expedition — Montgomery's lines on ice-imprisoned 
vessels — Lady Franklin's devotion and enthusiasm — Verses — Her appeal to the north — 
Sir E. Parry's opinion — Outfit and dispatch of Franklin's expedition — Names of the 
officers employed — Outline of Franklin's services — Notices of the services of other of 
the ofiicers — Searchiug expeditions sent out in 1848 — ^Different volunteers offer — Ab- 
sence of intelligence of Franldin — His latest dispatches and letters — Copper cyhnders 
— Franlclin's views and intentions — Letters of Captain Fitzjames — General opinions of 
the most experienced arctic officers as to Pranldin's safety — Offer of ser-vices and sug- 
gestions by Dr. King — Opinions of Captains Parry and JameB Ross thereon — Consulta- 
tion of officers at the Admiralty — Report of the hydrographer — Advice tendered by 
those consulted — Views of Mr. Snow and Mr. McLean — Public and private rewards 
offered for discovery and assistance to be rendered — Second report of Admiral Beaufort 
to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty — Various private and official letters and 
dispatches, pointing out, or commenting on plans and modfes of relief— Abundance of 
animal food foxmd in the arctic regions — A ballad of Sir John Franldin. 

The Government and private Searching Expeditions 281 

List of the vessels and commanders, &c., now employed on the search in tho arctio 
regions — Notices of those returned home. 

Voyage of the Entei-prise and Investigator under Captains Sir J. C. 
, Ross and E. J. Bird, 1848-49 281 

Names of the officers employed in this expedition — Ships arrive at Uppernavick— 
Proceed on their voyage — Force a passage through the ice — Enter Barrow's Strait- 
After being driven about in the pack, take shelter for the winter in the harbor of Port 
Leopold — Surveying trips carried on down the inlet, and round the northern and 
western shores of Boothia — Foxes trapped and hberated with copper collars on — Fury 
open water— Beset by the loose pack, and the temperature falling, the whole body of 
ice is formed into one solid mass, and the ships are drifted with the field into Baffin's 
Bay — The return to England determined on — Outline of Sir James Ross's arduous 
services in the polar regions. 

Voyage of the transport, N'orth Star, 1849 2^)0 

Names of tiie officers of the ship— Official dispatch from the Commander— S'.up 



CONTENTS. XI 

beset in an ic«-A«ld in the northern part of Baffin's Bay— Drifted with it for sixty-two 
days— Winterh in Wolstenholme Sound— Dearth of animals there — Ship gets clear of 
ice and makes for I-ancaster Sound — The Lady Frankhn and FeUx are spoken with — 
Being prevented by the i^e from reaching Port Bowen or Port NeilL, the provisions 
takea out by the North Star are landed at Na-v'y Board Inlet— Speaks the Prince Albert 
— Receives dispatches for England — Returns home — Commander Saunders appointed 
to Malta Dock-yard. 

Second voyage of the Enterprise and Investigator under Captain 
Coliinson and Commander M'Clure, 1850 294 

f Names of officers attached to the ships — Esquimaux interpreter appointed to the 
Enterprise- Vessels arrive at the Sandwich Islands— Expressed intentions of the com- 
manders of the vessels — Sliips reach Behring's Strait — Communicate with the Herald 
end Plover— Latest dispatches of Captain Coliinson and Commander M'Clure — Position 
of their Ships. 

V^oyage of the Plover, and Boat Expeditions under Commander 
PuUen, 1848-51 307 

Purport of instructions issued from the Admiralty — Ship arrives in Behring's Strait 
-Discovers new land and islands to the north of the Strait — "Winters in Kotzebue 
6ound — Lieutenant Pullen and party proceed in boats along the coast to the Mackenzie 
River — No tidings gleaned of Franklin's ships — Letter from Lieut. Hopper — Latest offi- 
cial dispatch from Conunander Pullen — His intentions — Sir John Richardson's a(i\ice. 

Voyage of the Lady Franlclin and Sophia, purchased government 
ships, under the command of Mr. Ponny 312 

Nature of the instructions given — Printing Press supplied — Ships saU and reach 
Wolstenholme Sotmd — Prevented by the ice from exarmning Jones' Sound — Reach 
Wellington Channel, and are left there by the Prince Albert. 

Voyage of the Resolute and Assistance, under command of Captain 
Austin, with their steam tenders, Pioneer and Intrepid, 1850-51 313 

Ships pvu-chased and are renamed by the government — Officers employed — ^Instruc- 
tions given to search WeUington Channel, and push on to MelviUe Island — Official 
dispatch from Captain Ommaney— MS. newspaper started on boai'd the Assistance- 
Extracts therefront. 

Voyage of Captain Sir John Ross in the Felix private schooner 
1850-51 319 

Is fitted out by the Hudson's Bay Company and private subscription — Arrives at 
"Whalefish Islands, and overtakes the Advance and Resolute — Proceeds in company — 
Esquimaux reports of the destruction of Franklin's ships, and murder of the crew — 
Proved by mvestigation to be devoid of foundation — Letter of Sir John Ross to the 
•Secretary of the Admiralty. 

American Government Searching Expedition in the United States 
ships Advance and Rescue, under the command of Lieutenant De 
Haven, 1850-51 325 

Lady Franklin's appeal to the American nation — Mr. Clayton's reply — Second letter 
of Lady Franklin to the President-rSuggestions of Lieutenant S. Osborn, R. N. — De- 
bate in Congress — Resolutions agreed to — Munificence of Mr. H. Grinnell — Ships fitted 
ovit and dispatched — Names of officers employed — Dispatches from the commander. 

Remarkable Voyage of the private ship Pnnce Albert, under the 
command of Captain Forsyth, R. N",, to Regent Inlet and back, 
1850 348 

Fitted out by Lady Franklin and by private subscription — Reasons for the expeditioin 
— Officers and crew — Discover traces of Franklin — Fall in with other ships — Visits 
Regent Inlet — Is forced to return home — Remarks on this voyage — Position of the 
yassels of the squadron — Lines to the expeditious in search of Sir John Frankhn 




IITTRODUCTIOIS', 



The interest aroused both in this conntry and 
Europe, in regard to Sir John Franklin and his 
associates, has in no degree diminished by the fail- 
ure of the various Exploring Expeditions, to ascertain 
the fate of the great navigator. His well known 
intrepidity, his great experience and knowledge of 
the Arctic regions, the abundant supplies with which 
he was furnished, the various casualties which may 
have excluded 1dm from the observation of subse- 
quent navigators, and above all, the traces which 
have been discovered of him, have kept alive hopes, 
which, imder other circumstances, in the long lapse 
of time would have been utterly extinguished. The 



XIV INTRODUCTION. 

heroic woman, whose devotion to her gallant husband 
has made her name a household word in two conti- 
nents, whose appeals in his behalf have touched all 
hearts, and filled all eyes with tears, whose conduct 
has added another illustration of conjugal affection, 
of indomitable perseverance and courage, to the lon^ 
list of examples of woman's faith and woman's forti- 
tude, the wife of the lost Franklin still hojpes. Sho 
cannot believe that the sea has swallowed the gallant 
company under the guidance of her husband, or that 
the frosts of the Pole have benumbed their energies; 
no mounds of snow and ice are seen by her, as 
marking the place where they await the voice of the 
Archangel, and the trump of God ; before the vision 
of her mind, the frost-bound voyagers still appear, 
watching for some fi-iendly sail in the open channels 
of the frozen seas, stiU husbanding their resources, 
BtUl hoping against hope. She beholds them man- 
fully struggling with the difficulties of their position, 
seeking, during the short summer of the high latitudes, 
an avenue of escape, and engaged in the winter in 
protecting themselves from the cold, by walls of 
snow, and renewing their clothing with the spoils 
of the shaggy monarch of those solitudes, the polai 
bear, whose capture stimulates their energies and 



INTBODUCTIOHT. XV 

Invigorates their powers. "While sucli a hope is strong 
in the soul of this noble woman, it will live in the 
hearts of all Christendom until the lost are restored 
to home and kindred, or their graves are ft)und, and 
their forms, untouched by decay, recognized by the 
hardy mariners who brave the dangers of an Arctic 
Sea. "Who can tell if this lost company have not 
broken through into that open Ocean which^ is said 
to spread out beyond the barrier of ice, and found 
there a new world from which they cannot return to 
relate the story of- their marvelous voyage? "Who 
knows if they are not now reposing upon some island 
of that unknown Sea, where a modified climate, and 
a fertile soil furnish all the necessaries of life, or 
are vainly coasting along that wall of ice through 
which they unexpectedly entered, and from which 
they hope to escape by some opening like that in 
which they came ? Perhaps, curiosity overcoming love 
of home and kindred, they have explored or are 
now exploring the unknown world upon which they 
have been peiTnitted to enter, mapping its islands 
and bays, or passing on to the pole itself, full of 
high thoughts of the undying fame that will reward 
their toils, when the story of their return and their 
discoveries shall astonish the world, as when the 



JtVl INTRODUCTION. 

daring Genoese brought back to Spain and Europw 
tbe proofs of tbe existence of tlie continent which 
should have borne his name. 

The diicoverj of a northwest passage to the Indies, 
was the first object of the daring navigators who 
explored the northern seas ; the pursuit of the whale 
has since led a multitude of vessels among the ice- 
bergs and ice-fields of the frozen ocean. Any furthei 
expenditure of treasure, or hazard of life for the 
former purpose is uncalled for — a mere waste of ma 
terial and a tempting of jDrovidence. Enough ig 
known to settle the question that any passage forced 
through those seas to Asia, would be too hazardous 
and too uncertain to render it of the least com- 
mercial advantage. The path to China marked out 
by nature, or rather by the God of nature, is by the 
isthmus which separates iTorth and South America, 
and all ideas of an available northwest passage are 
simply Utopian. For the perfecting of the geography 
of the earth, for the purpose of ascertaining whether 
an open ocean, and a modified climate, and a pro- 
ductive soil are to be found beyond the fields of ice, 
may be worthy the efforts of civilized nations, yet it 
might be questioned whether the hardships of the 
navigation, and the risk of life in those remote 



INTKODUOTIOJS. XVii 

solitudes, would not justify an abandonment of a re- 
gion guarded by, sucb awful barriers, which could only 
be passed occasionally in the lapse of years. If it 
should appear, that a land like the garden of Eden 
lay beyond the domain of frost, how could it be 
made practically accessible, or used for the benefit 
J mankind ? Would it not forever remain like that 
hidden city in the desert, which, according to the 
eastern fable, is concealed fi-om all passers by, and 
only some favored traveler is perhaps once in a 
century permitted to gaze upon its deserted streets 
and behold its towers and palaces ; or like the lost 
A^tlantis, would it not be discovered only to disap 
oear forever? 

For the rescue of the long lost company of Sir 
Tohn Franklin, or for the purpose of ascertaining 
heir fate, too much can hardly be done. In such 
an enterprise, the noblest sympathies of our nature 
cannot fail to be enlisted, and higher and m^ore 
worthy of remembrance than the conflict of arms, or 
the rivalry of the nations in their fa'^ilcs at the 
recent great fair of the world in the modern Baby- 
lor lias Deen the competition between England and 
the United States, in the voyages of discovery for 
the groat arctic navigator, and his companions. In 



XVlll IISrTKODUCTION. 

such a contest the bonds of national brotherhood are 
strengthened, the friendship of the two great branches 
of the Anglo-Saxon race, who, descended from the 
same ancestry and speaking the same tongne, have 
been intrusted by the divine providence w4th the 
guardianship of civil and religions freedom, is 
cemented and made to soar above the petty rivahies, 
jijid the petty provocations, which have heretofore so 
often disturbed the good understanding which ought 
es^er to prevail between those who are brethren in 
blood, who have a common ancestry, a common lan- 
guage, and a common faith. Despotism like a dark 
cloud is gathering over Europe ; France, after numer- 
•jiis revolutions, and a multitude of gra^idiloquent 
protestations for freedom, has tamely yielded to a 
niiiitary dictatorship more degrading than the rule 
of her most despotic monarchs, and nothing marks 
licr incapacity for liberty, her profound social cor- 
ruption and the utter loss even of the heroic element 
tluit characterized her in the worst days of the Bour- 
uou dynasty, than the character of the man who 
has seized the reins of government. The shadow, or 
rather the mockery of a great name, with no repu- 
tation as a soldier, wdth no ability as a statesman, 
the dissolute and degenerate nephew of the gre^-^ 



INTEODUCTION. XIX 

Warrior, holds J'rance under a rule more disgraceful 
to her than that of Louis XY., of whose vices he is 
an apt imitator. Under such circumstances, the con- 
tinued friendship of Great Britain and the United 
States, is essential to the highest interests of our 
common humanity. Together they may defy tlie 
world in arms, and blockade the ports of all the des- 
potic powers on the globe, and every generous con- 
cert of action, every noble rivalry like that which sent 
our ships in search for the lost Franklin, is an omen 
of good to the world, and a pledge that despotism is 
not to shroud the nations in darkness, superstition, 
and ignorance. The vast conspiracy which is now 
organizing from St. Petersburg to Paris, and from 
the Baltic to the Caspian, against a free press, free 
government and free speech, can only be defeated 
by the constant friendship and united resistance of 
the Anglo-Saxon race on both continents. 

It is not a little remarkable that the American 
expedition should have originated in private benev- 
olence, and that to the enlightened liberality of a 
single individual, the country owes an enterprise 
which reflects so much credit upon our republic. 
We read in the Scriptures of ancient nations and 
<:\t:r:-. '-'aIiap? t'^' rclrntf^ Avcrc |);i]K-':s : " if this 



expression in the Bible implies what it does in mod 
ern parlance, we may congratulate ourselves that we 
possess a similar description of citizens — merchants 
who are princes, not in the magnificence which 
apes the pomp of royalty, but in the large and 
liberal spirit that exhibits itself in acts of generosity 
and munificence, which may be termed princely in 
respect to ,the grandeur of their conception, and tht? 
efiiciency of their execution. 

The true genius and character of a people may be 
tested by the examples of individuals, no less than 
by their institutions and laws. The illustrious citi- 
zens of the ancient republics are the memoriak and 
proofs of their national greatness. As the Eoman 
mother said of her children, "these are my jewels," 
so the Commonwealth may say of her distinguished 
sons, for they are the glory and the crown of the 
State. The name of Henkt Geinnell, in connection 
with the expedition in search of Franklin, will 
survive all the marble and granite of the city of 
his residence. He might say with, truth with the 

Latin Poet, 

" Exegi moTiumeritiim ?ere perennius." 

"Whatever is done for truth or for humanity, sur- 
vives 'Ti tli.e reine:ii!'.rn"nce r^f nil n2;eR : tlie star oi 



INTRODUCTION . XX] 

a Howard culminates above those of all the heroes 
and conqnerers who have filled the earth with vio- 
lence, and the merchant prince who ^ent his ships 
into the Arctic Seas, to search for the lost of 
imother nation and people, is entitled to the plau- 
dits of his country and his race. 

I:Tor should the commander, officers, and seamen 
)f the American expedition be forgotten by the gov- 
ernment, or their countrymen. In the dangerous 
service in which they voluntarily engaged, they ex- 
liibited the courage and hardihood, the coolness and 
forethought which have characterized the brightest 
examples in our naval history. The narrative of 
fcheir hazardous voyage, so far as it has been made 
public, reflects the highest credit upon all concerned, 
and has added new luster to the annals of American 
seamanship. 

The naval service is the right arm of the Republic; 
no power on earth can assail us while the ocean is 
covered with our ships. Great Britain came out of 
ihe contest with ITapoleon and the continent with 
safety and success, only because she acquired and 
kept the dominion of the sea ; it is her naval supe- 
riority, which now delays the Autocrat of the IS'orth 
i*-n iiiq contemplated subjugation of Europe, a^*-' 



&Xn INTRODUCTION. 

prevents his immediate occupation of Constantinople 
as the seat of his new Empire. 'Nov is it merely the 
nmnber of men-of-war which are kept afloat, that 
creates the naval superiority of a country, l^ut that 
extensive commerce which constitutes a nursery of 
seamen, whose numbers, knowledge, and courage 
may be made available in the hour of danger. In 
no respect have our countrymen so uniformly dis- 
tinguished themselves, as in their naval exploits, no- 
where have they been so successful, as on the ocean, 
and the safety of the country is more connected with 
this department of defense than any other. While 
such men as Commander De Haven, Griitith, and 
such crews can be mustered from the naval service 
of the United States, our shores are safe from foreign 
invasion, and our coimtry from all assaults save those 
of the demon of domestic discord ; if we perish, it 
^11 be suicidally. 

While every christian and philanthropist will earn- 
estly desire and pray for the day w^hen men shal' 
learn war no more, when " the sword shall be beater 
into a plowshare, and the spear into a pruning 
hook," it is the height of folly to presume that an} 
such period 'e at hand — to blind our eyes to the evi- 
dent toVpvr of an approaching contest which is to 



INTRODUCTION. xxiii 

shake the earth, and from which we can only escape 
scathless bj a position and a force which will com- 
pel respect for our rights, and protect our neutrality, 
if it be possible to maintain this position in a con- 
test waged for the destruction of civil and religious 
liberty. The narrative of the American expedition 
cannot fail to enlist the sympathies of the country 
more earnestly in behalf of those 

"Whose march is on the mountain wave, 
Whose home is on the deep," 

and kindle generous emotions in all hearts. We 
hope it may find a place in every habitation 
throughout the length and breadth of oar extended 
country. ^ 



THE PEOGRESS 



OP 



ARCTIC DISCOVERT 

m THE 

JSraSTETEENTH CENTUEY. 



If we examine a map of l^orthern, or Arctic, Amer- 
ica, showino^ what was known of the countries around 
tlie ISTorth Pole in the commencement of the present 
century, we shall find that all within the Arctic circle 
was a complete blank. Mr. Hearne had, indeed, seen 
the Arctic Sea in the year 1^71 ; and My. Mackenzie had 
traced the river which now bears his name to its junc- 
tion with the sea ; but not a single line of the coast 
from Icy Cape to Baffin's Bay was known. The east- 

'ern and western shores of Greenland, to about 75° lat- 
itude, were tolerably well defined, Irom the visits of 
whpJing vessels ; Hudson's Bay and Strait were pp.r-. 
tially known; but Baffin's Bay, according to the state- 

'ment.of Mr. Bafiin, in 1616, was bounded by land on 
the west, running parallel with the 90th meridian of 
longitude, or across what is now known to us as Bar- 
row's Strait, and probably this relation led to the^sub- 

j sequently formed hasty opinion of Captain Sir John 
Ross, as to his visionary Croker Mountains, of which 
I shall have occasion to speak hereafter. 

As early as the year 1527, the idea of a pa^ssage to 
tlie East Indies by the Korth Pole was suggested by a 



26 niuGUKSS OI' ARCTIC DISCO VEPcY. 

Bristol merchant to Henrj YIII., but no voyage seems 
to have been undertaken for the purpose of navigating 
the Polar seas, till the commencement of the following 
century, when an expedition was fitted out at the ex- 
pense of certain merchants of London. To this attempt 
several others succeeded at different periods, and all 
of them were projected and carried into execution by 
private individuals. The adventurers did not indeed 
accomplish the object they exclusively sought, that of 
reaching India by a nearer route than doubling the 
Cape of Good Hope, but though they failed in that 
respect, the fortitude, perseverance, and skill which 
they manifested, exhibited the most irrefragable proofs 
of the early existence of that superiority in naval af- 
fairs, which has elevated this country to her present 
eminence among the nations of Europe. 

At length, after the lapse of above a century and a 
half, this interesting quedion became an object of 
Koyal patronage, and the expedition which was com- 
manded by Captain Phipps (afterward Lord Mulgrave,) 
in 1773, was fitted out at the charge of Government. 
The first proposer of this voyage was the Hon. Daines 
Barrington, F. R. S., who, with indefatigable assiduity, 
began to collect every fact tending to establish the 
practicability of circumnavigating the Pole, and as he 
accumulated his materials, he read them to the Royal 
Society, who, in consequence of these representations, 
made that application to Lord Sandwich, then Pirst 
Lord of the Admiralty, which led to the appointment 
of this first official voyage. Captain Phipps, however, 
found it impossible to penetrate the wall of ice which 
extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80° 
and 81°, to the north of Spitzbergen. His vessels were 
the Racehorse, and Carcass ; Captain Lutwidge being 
his second in command, in the latter vessel, and hav- 
ing with him, then a mere boy, Nelson, the future 
hero of England. 

From the year 1648, when the famous Russian navi- 

fitor, Senor Deshnew, penetrated from the river 
olyma through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the 



INTliUDL'CTION. 27 

Russians have been as arduous in their attempts to dis- 
cover a northeast passage to the north of Cape Shel- 
atskoi, as the English have been to sail to the north- 
west of the American continent, through Baffin's Bay 
and Lancaster Sound. On the side of the Pacilic, 
many efforts, have, within the last century, been made 
to further this object. In 1741, the celebrated Captain 
Behring discovered the straits which bear his name, as 
we are informed by MuUer, the chronicler of Russian 
discoveries, and several subsequent commanders of 
that nation seconded his endeavors to penetrate from 
the American continent to the northeast. Erom t>he 
period when Deshnew sailed on his expedition, to the 
year 1764, when Admiral Tchitschagof, an indefatiga- 
ble and active officer, endeavored to force a passage 
round Spitzbergen, (which, although he attempted with 
a resolution and skill which would fall to the lot of 
few, he was unable to effect,) and thence to the present 
times, including the arduous efforts of Captain Billings 
and Yancouver, and the more recent one of M. Yon 
Wrangell, the Russians have been untiring in their at- 
tempts to discover a passage eastward,, to the north 
of Cape Taimur and Cape Shelatskoi. And cei;tainly, 
if skill, perseverance, and courage, could have opened 
this passage, it would have been accomplished. 

Soon after the general peace of' Europe, when war's 
alarms had given way to the high pursuits of science, 
the government recommenced the long-suspended 
work of prosecuting discoveries within the Arctic circle. 

An expedition was dispatched under the command 
of Sir John Ross, in order to explore the scene of the 
former labors of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted 
vvith the golden dreams of a northwest passage, which 
Barrington and Beaufoy had in the last age so enthu- 
siastically advocated, our nautical adventurers by no 
means relinquished the long-cherished chimera. 

It must be admitted, however, that the testimony of 
Parry and Franklin pass for much on the other side 
of the question. Both these officers, whose researches 
in the cause of scientific discovery entitle therr ' o very 



*2S PROGRESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. 

high respect, have declared it as their opinion that 
such a passage does not exist to the north of the 75th 
degree of latitude. 

Captain Parry, in the concluding remarks of his first 
voyage, (vol. ii. p. 241,) says — " Of the existence of a 
northwest passage to the Pacific, it is now scarcely 
possible to doubt, and from the success which attended 
our efibrts in 1819, after passing through Sir James 
Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anti- 
cipating its complete accomplishment," &c. And 
Franklin, in the eleventh chapter of his work, is of the 
same opinion, as to the practicability of such a passage 

But in no subsequent attempt, either by themselves 
or others, has this long sought desideratum been ac- 
complished ; impediments and barriers seem as thickly 
thrown in its way as ever.* 

An expedition was at length undertaken for the sole 
purpose of reaching the [N'orth Pole, with a view to 
the ascertainment of philosophical questions. It was 
planned and placed under the command of Sir Edward 
Parry, and here first the elucidation of phenomena 
connected with this imaginary axis of our planet 
formed the primary object of investigation . 
. My space and purpose in this work will not permit 
me to go into detail by examining what Barrow justly 
terms " those brilliant periods of early English enter- 
prise, so conspicuously displayed in every quarter of 
the globe, but in none, probably, to greater 'advantage 
than in those bold and persevering efibrts to pierce 
through frozen seas, in their little slender barks, of the 
most miserable description, ill provided with the means 
either of comfort or safety, without charts or instru- 
ments, or any previous knowledge of the cold and in- 
bospitable region through which they had to force and 
to feel their way ; their vessels oft beset amidst end- 
less fields of ice, and threatened to be overwhelmed 
with instant destruction from the rapid whirling and 
bursting of those huge floating masses, known by the 

* Colonial Mngp:;inf', ^'ol. xiii, p. H'JO 



INTKODUCTIUN. 29 

name of icebergs. Yet so powerfully infused into the 
minds of Britons was the spirit of enterprise, that 
some of the ablest, the most learned, and most respect- 
able men of the times, not only lent their countenance 
and support to expeditions fitted out for the discovery 
of new lands, but strove eagerly, in their own persons, 
to share in the glory and the danger of every daring 
adventure." 

To the late Sir John Barrow, F. R. S., for so long a 
period secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early 
life, himself visited the Spitzbergen seas, as high as 
the 80th parallel, we are mainly indebted for the ad- 
vocacy and promotion of the several expeditions, and 
the investigations and inquiries set on foot in the pres- 
ent century, and to the voyages which have been hith- 
erto so successfully carried out as regards the interests 
of science and our knowledge of the Polar regions. 

Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsi- 
bility for these expeditions to any other quarter than 
the several administrations during which they were 
undertaken, there can be no question but that these 
enterprises originated in Sir John Barrow's able and 
zealous exhibition, to our naval authorities, of the 
several facts and arguments upon which they might 
best be justified and prosecuted as national objects. 
The general anxiety now prevailing respecting the fate 
of Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions, 
throws at this moment somewhat of a gloom on the 
subject, but it ought to be remembered that, up to the 
present period, our successive Polar voyages have, 
without exception, given , occupation to the energies 
and gallantry of IBritish seamen, and have extended 
the realms of magnetic and general science, at an ex- 
pense of lives and money quite insignificant, compared 
with the ordinary dangers and casualties of such expe- 
ditions, and that it must be a very narrow spirit and 
view of the subject which can raise the cry of y'^C^d 
hono^'' and counsel us to relinquish the honor and peril 
of such enterprises to Kussia and the United States c^' 



30 PROGRKSS OF AkCTIO pISCOVEKY. 

. It can scarcely be deemed out of place to give here 
a short notice of the literary labors of this excellent 
and talented man, as I am not aware that such an out- 
line has appeared before. 

Sir John Barrow was one of the chief writers for the 
Quarterly Review, and his articles in that journal 
amount to nearly 200 in number, forming, v/hen bound 
up, twelve separate volumes. All those relating to 
the Arctic Expeditions, &c., which created the great- , 
est interest at the period they were published, wsre 
from his pen, and consist chiefly of the following pa- 
pers, commencing from the 18th volume; — On Polar 
Ice ; On Behring's Straits, and the Polar Basin ; On 
Ross's Yoyage to Baffin's Bay ; On Parry's First Yoy- 
age ; Kotzebue's Yoyage ; Franklin's First Expedition ; 
Parry's Second and Third Yoyages, and Attempt to 
Reach the Pole ; Franklin's Second Expedition ; Lyon's 
Yoyage to Repulse Bay ; Back's Arctic Laud Expe- 
dition, and his Yoyage of the Terror. Besides these 
he published " A Chronological. History of Yoyages 
to the Arctic Seas," and afterward a second volume, 
" On the Yoyages of Discovery and Research within 
the Arctic Regions." 

He also wrote lives of Lord Macartney, 2 vols. 4to ; 
of Lord Anson and Howe, each 1 vol. 8vo ; of Peter 
the Great; and an Account of the Mutiny of the 
Bounty, (in the " Family Library ; ") " Travels in 
Southern Africa," 2 vols, 4to; and "Travels in 
China aud Cochin China," each 1 vol. 4to. 

In the " Encyclopedia Britannica " are ten or 
twelve of his articles, and he wrote one in the Edin- 
burgh Review by special request. 

In addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for 
the press innumerable MSS. of travelers in all parts 
of the globe,' the study of geography being his great 
deliglit, as is evidenced by his having founded the 
Royal Geographical Society of London, which now 
\)<\]ih so liigh and influential a position in the learned 
;!••.! i^cientific world, and has advanced so materially 
ih •>;••> .--e^s i)t' discovery and researcli in all parts of 



I2iTJiODUCTION. Ui 

the globe. Lastly, Sir John Barrow, not long before 
his death, published his own autobiography, in which 
he records the labors, the toil, and adventure, of a loi*g 
and honorable public life. 

Sir John Barrow has described, with voluminous caie 
and minute research, the arduous services of all the 
chief Arctic voyagers by sea and land, and to his voi 
ume I must refer those who wish to obtain more exteu 
sive details and particulars of the voyages of preceding 
centuries. He has also graphically set forth, to use his 
own words, " their several characters and conduct, so 
uniformly displayed in their unflinching perseverance 
in difficulties of no ordinary description, their patient 
endurance of extreme suffering, borne without mur- 
muring, and with an equanimity and fortitude of mind 
under the most appalling distress, rarely, if ever, 
equaled, and such as could only be supported by a 
superior degree of moral courage and resignation to 
the Divine will — displaying virtues like those of no 
ordinary caste,' and such as will not fail to excite the 
sympathy, and challenge the admiration of every right- 
feeling reader." 

Hakluyt, in his " Chronicle of Voyages," jnstly ob- 
serves, that we should use much care in preserving the 
memories of the worthy acts of our nation. 

The different sea voyages and land journeys of the 
present century toward the Korth Pole have redounded 
to the honor of our country, as well as reflected credit 
on the characters and reputation, of the officers engaged 
in them ; and it is to these I confine my observations. 

The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has 
been slow but progressive, and much still within the 
limits of practical navigation remains yet unexplored. 
As Englishmen, we must naturally wish that discov- 
eries which were first attempted by the adventurous 
spirit and maritime skill of our countrymen, should be 
finally achieved by the same means. 

" Wil it not," says the worthy ' preacher,' Hakluyt, 
" in all posteritie be as great a renown vnto our En-- 
glish natione, to have beene the first discouerers of a 



o2 PKOGliESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

^-ea beyond the JSTorth Cape, (neiier certainely knowen 
before,) and of a conuenient passage into the huge em- 
pire of Kussia by the Bale of St. ]J^icholas and "of the 
Riuer of Diiina, as for the Portugales, to have found 
a sea beyond the Cape of Buona Esperanza, and so 
consequently a passage by sea into the East Indies ? " 

I cordially agree with the Quarterly Eeview, tha' 
''neither the country nor the naval service will ever 
believe they have any cause to regret voyages which, 
in the eyes of foreigners and posterity, must confer 
lasting honor upon both." 

The cost of these voyages has not been great, while 
the consequences will be permanent ; for it iias been 
well remarked, by a late writer, that " the record of 
enterprising hardihood, physical endurance, and steady 
perseverance, displayed in overcoming elements the 
most adverse, will long remain among the worthiest 
memorials of human enterprise." 

" How shall I admire, " says Purchas, " your heroic 
courage, ye marine worthies, beyond* all names of 
worthiness ! that neyther dread so long eyther the 
presence or absence of the sunne ; nor those foggy 
mysts, tempestuous winds, cold blasts, snowe and 
hayle in the ayre ; nor the unequall seas, which might 
amaze the hearer, and amate the beholder, when the 
Tritons and ]N'eptune's selfe would quake with chilling 
feare to behold such monstrous icie ilands, renting 
themselves with terror of their own massines, and dis- 
dayning otherwise both the sea's sovereigntie and the 
sunne's hottest violence, mustering themselves in those 
watery plaines where they hold a continual civill 
warre, and rushing one upon another, make windes 
and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares of 
others, while they rent themselves with crashing and 
splitting their congealed armors." 

So thickly are the Polar seas of the northern hemi- 
sphere clustered with lands, that the long winter months 
serve to accumulate filed ice to a prodigious extent, sg 
as to form an almost impenetrable barrier of hypei 
horean frost — 



INTRODUCTION. 33 

" A ciystal pavement by the breath of Heaven 
Cemented firm." 

Although there are now no new continents left to 
discover, our intrepid British adventurers are but too 
eager to achieve the bubble reputation, to hand down 
their names to future ages for patient endurance, zeal, 
and enteiprise, by explorations of the hidden mys- 
teries of — 

" the frigid zone, 
Where, for relentless months, continual night 
Holds o'er the gUttering waste her stany light ; '* 

by undergoing perils, and enduring privations and 
dangers which the mind, in its reflective moments, 
shudders to contemplate. 

It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold, 
and so limited the summer, and consequently so short 
the time allowed for a transit within the Arctic circle, 
from Baffin's Bay to Behring's Straits, that a passage, 
even if discovered, will never be of any use as a chan- 
nel. It is not likely that these expeditions would ever 
have been persevered in with so much obstinacy, had 
the prospects now opening on the world of more prac- 
ticable connections with the East been known forty 
years ago. Hereafter, when the sacred demands of 
humanity have been answered, very little more will 
be heard about the northwest passage to Asia ; which, 
if ever found, must be always hazardous and pro- 
tracted, when a short and quick one can be accom- 
plished by railroads through America, or canals across 
the Isthmus. 

A thorough knowledge of the relative'boundaries of 
land and ocean on this our globe has, in all ages and 
by all countries, been considered one of the most im- 
portant desiderata, and one of the chief features of 
popular information. 

But to no country is this knowledge of such prac- 
tical utility and of such essential importance, as to a 
maritime nation like Great Britain, whose mercantile 
marine visits every port, whose insular position ren- 
ders her completely dependent upon distant quarters 
3 



34 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

for half the necessary supplies, whether of food or lux- 
ury, which her native population consume, or which 
the arts and manufactures, of which she is the empo- 
rium, require. 

With a vast and yearly increasing dominion, cover- 
ing almost every region of the habitable globe, — the 
chart of our colonies being a chart of the wo^-ld in out- 
line, for we sweep the globe and touch every shore, — 
it becomes necessary that we should keep pace with 
the progress of colonization, by enlarging, wherever 
possible, our maritime discoveries, completing and veri- 
fying our nautical surveys, improving our meteorologi- 
cal researches, opening up new and speedier perodical 
pathways over the oceans which were formerly trav- 
ersed with so much danger, doubt, and difficulty, and 
maintaining our superiority as the greatest of maritime 
nations, by sustaining that high and distinguished rank 
for naval eminence which has ever attached to the 
British name. 

The arduous achievements, however, of our nautical 
discoverers have seldom been appreciated or rewarded 
as they deserved. We load our naval and military 
heroes — the men who guard our wooden walls and 
successfully fight our battles — with titles and pen- 
sions ; we heap upon these, and deservedly so, princely 
remuneration and a^l manner of distinctions; but for 
the heroes whose p^itient toil and protracted endurance 
far surpass the turmoil of war, who peril their lives in 
the cause of science, many of whom fall victims to 
pestilential climates, famine, and the host of dangers 
which environ the voyager and traveler in unexplored 
lands and unknown seas, we have only a place in the 
niche of fame. 

What honors did England, as a maritime nation, con- 
fer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes, — a man 
whose life was sacrificed for his country ? His widow 
had an annuity of 200Z., and his surviving children 
251. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to 
the most eminent of our naval discoverers, before 
whom Cabot, Drake, Frobisher, Magellan, Anson, and 



mTEODTJCTION. 35 

the arctic adventurers, Hudson and Baffin, — althongh 
all eminent for their discoveries and the important 
services they rendered to the cause of nautical sci- 
ence, — sink into insignificance ! If we glance at the 
results of Cook's voyages we find that to him we are 
indebted for the innumerable discoveries of islands and 
colonies planted in the Pacific; that he determined 
the conformation, and surveyed the numerous bays 
and inlets, of JSTew Holland ; established the geogra- 
phical position of the northwestern shores of America ; 
ascertained the trending of the ice and frozen shores to 
the north of Behring's Straits ; approached nearer the 
South Pole, and made more discoveries in the Austra- 
iian regions, than .^lU the navigators who had preceded 
him. On the very shores of their vast empire, at the 
extremity of Kamtschatka, his active genius first 
taught the Russians to examine the devious trendings 
of the lands which border the Frozen Ocean, in the 
neighborhood of the Arctic circle. He explored both 
the eastern and western coasts above Behring's Straits 
to so high a latitude as to decide, beyond doubt, the 
question as to the existence of a passage round the two 
continents. He showed the Russians how to navigate 
the dangerous seas between the old and the new 
world ; for, as Coxe has remarked, " before his time, 
every thing was uncertain and confused, and though 
they had undoubtedly reached the continent of Amer- 
ica, yet they had not ascertained the line of coast, nor 
the separation or vicinity of the two continents of Asia 
and America." Coxe, certainly, does no more than 
justice to his illustrious countryman when he adds, 
" the solution of this important problem was reseiwed 
for our great navigator, and every Englishman must 
exult that the discoveries of Cook were extended fur- 
ther in a single expedition, and at the distance of half 
the globe, than the Russians accomplished in a long 
series of years, and in a region contiguous to their own 
empire." 

Look at Weddell, again, a private trader in seal- 
skins, who, in a frail bark of 160 tons, made important 



36 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

discoveries in the Antarctic circle, and a voyage of 
greater length and peril, through a thousand miles of 
ice, than had previously been performed by any navi- 
gator, paving the way for the more expensively fitted 
expedition under Sir James Ross. Was Yv^eddell re- 
munerated on a scale commensurate with his important 
services ? 

Half a century ago the celebrated Bruce of Kinnaird, 
by a series of soundings and observations taken in the 
Bed Sea, now the great highway of overland eastern 
traffic, rendered its navigation more secure and punc- 
tual. How was he rewarded by the then existing min- 
istry ? 

Take a more recent instance in the indefatigable 
energy of Lieutenant Waghorn, E,. ]^., the enterprising 
pioneer of the overland route to India. What does not 
the commerce, the character, the reputation, of this 
country owe to his indefatigable exertions, in bringing 
the metropolis into closer connection with our vast and 
important Indian empire ? And what was the reward 
he received for the sacrifices he made of time, money, 
hQalth and life ? A paltry annuity to himself of lOOZ., 
and a pension to his widow of 261. per annum ! 

Is it creditable to us, as the first naval power of the 
world, that we should thus dole out miserable pittances, 
or entirely overlook the successful patriotic exertions 
and scientific enterprises and discoveries of private 
adventurers, or public commanders ? 

The attractions of a summer voyage along the bays 
and seas where the sun shines for four months at a time, 
exploring the bare rocks and everlasting ice, w4th no 
companion but the white bear or the Arctic fox, may 
be all very romantic at a distance ; but the mere thought 
of a winter residence thep, frozen fast in some solid 
ocean, with snow a dozen feet deep, the thermometer 
ranging from 40° to 50° below zero, and not a glimpse 
of the blessed sun from l^ovember to February, is 
enough to give a chill to all adventurous notions. But 
the officers and men engaged in the searching expedi- 
tions after Sir John Franklin have calmly weighed all 



FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN EOSS. 37 

these difficulties, and boldly gone forth to encounter 
the perils and dangers of these icy seas for the sake of 
their noble fellow-sailor, whose fate has been so long a 
painful mystery to the world. 

It has been truly observed, that " this is a service 
for which all officers, however brave and intelligent 
they may be, are not equally qualified ; it requires a 
peculiar tact, an inquisitive and persevering pursuit 
after details of fact, not always interesting, a contempt 
of danger, and an enthusiasm not to be damped by 
ordinary difficulties." 

The records which I shall have to give in these pages 
of voyages and travels, unparalleled in their perils, 
their duration, and the protracted sufferings which 
many of them entailed on the adventurers, will bring 
out in bold relief the prominent characters who have 
figured in Arctic Discovery, and whose names will 
descend to posterity, emblazoned on the scroll of fame, 
for their bravery, their patient endurance, their skill, 
and, above all, their firm trust and reliance on that 
Almighty Being who, although He may have tried 
them sorely, has never utterly forsaken them. 

Capt. John Eoss's Yotage, 1818. 

In 1818, His Koyal Highness the Prince Eegent 
having signified his pleasure that an attempt should 
be made to find a passage by sea between the Atlantic 
and Pacific Oceans, the Lords Commissioners of the 
Admiralty were pleased to fit out four vessels to pro- 
ceed toward the North Pole, under the command of 
Captain John Ross. 'No former expedition had been 
fitted out on so extensive a scale, or so completely 
equipped in every respect as this one. The circum- 
stance which mainly led to the sending out of these 
vessels, was the open character of the bays and seas 
in those regions, it having been observed for the pre- 
vious three years that very unusual quantities of the 
polar ice had floated dovv^n into the Atlantic. In the 



38 PEOGEESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERT. 

year 181T, Sir John Barrow relates that the eastern 
coast of Greenland, which had been shut up with ice 
for four centuries, was found to be accessible from the 
70th to the 80th degree of latitude, and the interme- 
diate sea between it and Spitzbergen was so entirely 
open in the latter parallel, Tbat a Hamburgh ship had 
actually sailed along this track. 

On the 15th of January, 1818, the four ships were 
put in commission — the Isabella, 385 tons, and the 
Alexander, 252 tons — under Captain Ross, to proceed 
up the middle of Davis' Strait, to a high northern lati- 
tude, and then to stretch across to the westward, in 
the hope of being able to pass the northern extremity 
of America, and reach Behring's Strait by that route. 
Those destined for the Polar sea were, the Dorothea, 
382 tons, and the Trent, 249 tons, which were ordered 
to proceed between Greenland and Spitzbergen, and 
seek a passage through an open Polar sea, if such 
should be found in that direction. 

I shall take these voyages in the order of their pub- 
lication, Ross having given to the world the account 
of his voyage shortly after his return in 1819: while 
the narrative of the voyage of the Dorothea and Trent 
was only published in 18'13, by Captain Beechey, who 
served as Lieutenant of the Trent, during the voyage. 

The following were the officers, &c., of the ships 
under Captain Ross : — 

IsciheTla, 

Captain — John Ross. 

Lieutenant — ^"W. Robertson. 

Purser — W. Thom. 

Surgeon — John Edwards. 

Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. 

Admiralty Midshipmen — A. M. Skene and James 

Clark Ross. 
Midshipman and Clerk — J. Bushnan. 
Greenland Pilots — B. Lewis, master; T. "Wilcox, 

mate. 
Captain (now Colonel) Sabine, R. A. 



FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN- KOSS. 39 

45 petty officers, seamen, and marines. 
Whole complement, 5T. 

Alexander, 

. Lieutenant and Commander — William Edward 

Parry, (now Captain Sir Edward.) 
Lieutenant — H. H. Hoopner, (a first rate artist.) 
Purser — W. H. Hooper. 
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; J. Philips, 

mate. 
Admiralty Midshipmen — P. Bisson and J.JN'ius. 
Assistant Surgeon — A. Fisher. 
Clerk — J. Halse. 
28 petty officers, seamen, &c. 

Whole complement, 3T. 

On the 2d of May, the four vessels being reported 
fit for sea, rendezvoused in Brassa Sound, Shetland, 
and the two expeditions parted company on the follow- 
ing day for their respective destinations. 

On the 26th, the Isabella fell in with the first ice- 
berg, which appeared to be about forty feet high and 
a thousand feet long. It is hardly possible to imagine 
any thing more exquisite than the variety of tints which 
these icebergs display ; by uight as well as by day they 
glitter with a vividness of color beyond the power of 
art to represent. While the white portions have the 
brilliancy of silver, their colors are as various and 
splendid as those of the rainbow ; their ever-changing 
disposition producing effects as singular as they are 
new and interesting to those who have not seen them 
before. 

On the 17th of June, they reached Waygatt Sound, 
beyond Disco Island, where they found forty-five 
whalers detained by the ice. Waygatt Island, from 
observations taken on shore, was found to be 5° longi- 
tude and 30 miles of latitude from the situation as laid 
down in the Admiralty Charts. 

They were not able to get away from here till the 
20th, when the ice began to break. By cutting passages 



4:0 PEOaRESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. 

through the ice, and by dint of towing and warping, 
a slow progress was made with the ships until the 
17th of July, when two ice-floes closing in upon them, 
threatened inevitable destruction, and it was only by 
the greatest exertions that they hove through into open 
water. The labors of warping, towing, and tracMng 
were subsequently very severe. This tracking, al- 
though hard work, afforded great amusement to the 
men, giving frequent occasion for the exercise of their 
wit, when some of the men occasionally fell in through 
holes covered with snow or weak parts of the ice. 

Yery high mountains of land and ice were seen to 
the north side of the bay, which he named Melville's 
Bay, forming an impassable barrier, the precipices 
next the sea being from 1000 to 2000 feet high. 

On the 29th of June, the Esquimaux, John Sacheuse, 
who had accompanied the expedition from England as 
interpreter, was sent on shore to communicate with 
the natives. About a dozen came off to visit the ship, 
and, after being treated with coffee and biscuit in the 
cabin, and having their portraits taken, they set to 
dancing Scotch reels on the deck of the Isabella with 
the sailors. 

Captain Eoss gives a pleasant description of this 
scene — " Sacheuse's mirth and joy exceeded all 
bounds ; and with a good-humored officiousness, justi- 
fied by the important distinction which his superior 
knowledge now gave him, he performed the office of 
master of the ceremonies. An Esquimaux M. C. to a 
ball on the deck of one of H. M. ships in the icy seas 
of Greenland, was an office somewhat new, but ISTash 
himself could not have performed his functions in a 
manner more appropriate. It did not belong even to 
Nash to combine in his own person, like Jack, the dis- 
cordant qualifications of seaman, interpreter, draughts- 
man, and master of ceremonies to a ball, with those 
of an active fisher of seals and a hunter of white bears. 
A daughter of the Danish resident (by in Esquimaux 
woman,) about eighteen years of age, and by far the 
best looking of the half-caste group, was the ©bjsct of 



FIEST VOYAGE OF CAPTAm ROSS. 41 

Jack's particular attentions ; which being observed by- 
one of our officers, he gave him a lady's shawl, orna- 
mented with spangles, as an offering for her acceptance. 
He presented it in a most respectful, and not ungrace- 
ful manner to the damsel, who bashfully took a pew- 
ter ring from her finger and gave it to him in return, 
rewarding him, at the same time, with an eloquent 
smile, which could leave no doubt on our Esquimaux's 
mind that he had made an impression on her heart."* 
On the 5th of August the little auks (Mergulfus alle,) 
were exceedingly abundant, and many were shot for 
food, as was also a large gull, two feet five inches in 
length, which, when killed, disgorged one of these 
little birds entire. 

A fortnight later, on two boats being sent from the 
Isabella to procure as many of these birds as possible, 
for the purpose of preserving them in ice, they re- 
turned at midnight with a boat-load of about 1500, 
having on an average, killed fifteen at each shot. The 
boats of the Alexander were nearly as successful. 
These birds were afterward served daily to each man, 
and, among other ways of dressing them, they were 
found to make excellent soup — not inferior to hare 
soup. 'Not less than two hundred auks were shot on 
the 6th of August, and served out to the ships' compa- 
nies, among whose victuals they proved an agreeable 
variety, not having the fishy flavor that might be ex- 
pected from their food, which consists of Crustacea, 
small fishes, mollusca, or marine vegetables. 

On the Yth of August the ships were placed in a 
most critical situation by a gale of wind. The Isabella 
was lifted by the pressure of ice floes on each side of 
her, and it was doubted whether the vessel could long 
withstand the grips and concussions she sustained ; 
" every support threatened to give way, the beams in 
the hold began to bend, and the iron water-tanks 
settled together. The two vessels were thrown with 
violent concussion against each other, the ice-anchors 

* Vol I, p. 67, 68. 
2* 



42 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYERT. 

and cables broke one after the other, a boat at tlie 
stern was smasbed in tbe collision, and the masts 
were hourly expected to go by the board ; but at this 
juncture, when certain destruction was momentarily 
looked for, by the merciful interposition of Providence 
the fields of ice suddenly opened and formed a clear 
passage for the ships." * 

A singular physical feature was noticed on the part 
of the coast near Cape Dudley Digges : — " We have 
discovered, (says Ross,) that the snow on the face of 
the cliffs presents an appearance both novel and inter- 
esting, being apparently stained or covered by some 
substance which gave it a deep crimson color. This 
snow was penetrated in many places to a depth of ten 
or twelve feet by the coloring matter." There is noth- 
ing new, however, according to Barrow, in the discov- 
ery of red snow. Pliny, and other writers of his time 
mention it. Saussure found it in various parts of the 
Alps ; Martin found it in Spitzbergen, and no doubt 
it is to be met with in most alpine regions. 

In the course of this tedious, and often laborious 
progress through the ice, it became necessary to 'keep 
the whole of the crew at the most fatiguing work, some- 
times for several days and nights without intermission. 
When this was the case, an extra meal was served to 
them at midnight, generally of preserved meat ; and 
it was found that this nourishment, when the mind 
and body were both occupied, and the sun continually 
present, rendered them capable of remaining without 
sleep, so that they often passed three days in this man- 
ner without any visible inconvenience, returning after 
a meal to their labor on the ice or in the boats quite 
refreshed, and continuing at it without a murmur. 

After making hasty and very cursory examinations 
of Smith's and Jones' Sounds, Eoss arrived, on the 
30th of August, off the extensive inlet, named by Baf- 
fin, Lancaster Sound. The entrance was perfectly 
clear, and the soundings ranged from 650 to 1000 fath- 
oms. I shall now quote Ross's own observations on 
this subject, because from his unfortunate report of a 



FIKST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN KOSS. 4:3 

range called the Croker mountains, stretching across 
this Strait, has resulted much of the ridicule and dis- 
credit which has attached to his accounts, and clouded 
his early reputation — " On the 31st (he says) we dis- 
covered, for the first time, that the land extended from 
the south two-thirds across this apparent Strait ; ^but 
the fog which continually occupied that quarter, ob- 
scured its real figure. During the day much interest 
was excited on board by the appearance of this Strait. 
The general opinion, however, was, that it was only an 
inlet. The land was partially seen extending across ; 
the yellow sky was perceptible. At a little before four 
o'clock A. M., the land was seen at the bottom of the 
inlet by the officers of the watch, but before I got on 
deck a s]5ace of about seven degrees of the compass 
was obscured by the fog. The land which I then saw 
was a high ridge of mountains extending directly across 
the bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely 
high in the center. Although a passage in this direc- 
tion appeared hopeless, I was determined to explore it 
completely. I therefore continued all sail. Mr. Bev- 
erly, the surgeon, who was the most sanguine, went up 
to the crow's nest, and at twelve reported to me that 
before it became thick he had seen the land across the 
bay, except for a very short space. 

"At three, I went on deck ; it completely cleared for 
ten minutes, when I distinctly saw the land round the 
bottom of the bay, forming a chain of mountains con- 
nected with those which extended along the north and 
Bouth side. This land appeared to be at the distance 
of eight leagues, and Mr. Lewis,* the master, and James 
Haig, leading man, being sent for, they took its bear- 
ings, which were inserted in the log. At this moment 
I also saw a continuity of ice at the distance of seven 
miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other, 
between the nearest cape to the north, which I named 
after Sir George Warrender, and that to the south, 
which was named after Yis count Castlereagh. The 
mountains, which occupied the center, in a north and 



44: PROGEESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVEKY. 

south direction, were named Croker's Mountains, after 
the Secretary to the Admiralty."* 

They next proceeded to Possession Bay, at the en- 
trance of the Strait, where a great many animals were 
observed. Deer, fox, ermine, bears, and hares, were 
either seen, or proved to be in abundance by their 
tracks, and the skeleton of a whale was found stranded 
about 500 yards beyond high-water-mark. Finding, as 
Koss supposed, no outlet through Lancaster Strait, the 
vessels continued their progress to the southward, ex- 
ploring the western coast of Baffin's Bay to Pond's 
Bay, and Booth's Inlet, discovering the trending of the 
land, which he named JSTorth Galloway, and North 
Ayr to Cape Adair, and Scott's Bay. ^ 

On September the 10th, they landed on an island 
near Cape Eglington, which was named Agnes' Monu- 
ment. A flag-staff and a bottle, with an account of 
their proceediugs was set up. The remains of a tem- 
porary habitation of some of the Esquimaux were here 
observed, with a fire-place, part of a human skull, a 
broken stone vessel, some bones of a seal, burnt wood, 
part of a sledge, and tracks of dogs, &c. ' 

While the boat was absent, two large bears swam off 
to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles 
from the land. They reached the Alexander, and were 
immediately attacked by the boats of that ship, and 
killed. One, which was shot through the head, unfor- 
tunately sank ; the other, on being wounded, attacked 
the boats, and showed -considerable play, but was at 
length secured and towed to the Isabella by the boats 
of both ships. The animal weighed 1131 i lbs., besides 
the blood it had lost, which was estimated at 30 lbs. 
more. 

On the following day, Lieut. Parry was sent on shore 
to examine an iceberg, which was found to be 4169 
yards long, 3869 yards broad, and 51 feet high, being 
aground in 61 fathoms. When they had ascended to 
the top, which was perfectly flat, they found a huge 

* Vol I, p. 241-46, 8vo. ed. 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AIsTD FRANKLIN. 45 

white bear in quiet possession of the mass, who, much, 
to their mortification and astonishment, plunged with- 
out hesitation into the sea from the edge of the preci- 
pice, which was fifty feet high. 

From careful observation it was found that there was 
no such land in the center of Davis' Strait as James' 
Island, which was laid down in most of the charts. 
l!^othing deserving of notice occurred in the subsequent 
course of the vessels past Cape Walsingham to Cum- 
berland Strait. 

The 1st of October having arrived, the limit to which 
his instructions permitted him to remain out, Ross 
shaped his course homeward, and after encountering a 
severe gale oif Cape Farewell, arrived in Grimsby 
Roads on the 14:th of ]^ovember. As respects the pur- 
pose of Arctic discovery, this voyage may be considered 
almost a blank, none of the important inlets and sounds 
of Bafiin's Bay having been explored, and all that was 
done was to define more clearly the land-bounds of 
Davis' Strait and Baffin's Bay, if we except the valu- 
able magnetic and other observations made by Captain 
Sabine. The commander of the expedition was pro- 
moted to the rank of captain on paying off the ships in 
December, 1818. 

The account of his voyage, published by Capt. Ross, 
is of the most meager and uninteresting description, 
and more than half filled with dry details of the outfit, 
copies of his instructions, of his routine letters and 
orders to his officers, &c. 

Bfchan and Fkankijn. 
Dorothea and Trent to Pole^ 1818. 

In conjunction with the expedition of Captain John 
Ross, was that sent out to the coast of Spitzbergen, and 
of which Captain Beechy has published a most inter- 
esting account, embellished with some very elegant 
illustrations from his pencil. The charge of it was 
given to Captain D. Buchan, who had, a few years pre- 
viously, conducted a very interesting expedition into 



46 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

the interior of ^Newfoundland. The first and most im- 
portant object of this expedition was the discovery of 
a passage over or as near the Pole, as might be possible, 
and through Behring's Straits into the Pacific. But it 
was also hoped that it might at the same time be the 
means of improving the geography and hydrography 
of the Arctic regions, of which so little was at that time 
known, and contribute to the advancement of science 
and natural knowledge. The objects to which attention 
was specially pointed in the Admiralty instructions, 
were the variation and inclination of the magnetic nee- 
dle, the intensity of the magnetic force, and how far it 
is affected by atmospherical electricity ; the tempera- 
ture of the air, the dip of the horizon, refraction, height 
of the tides, set and velocity of the currents, depths 
and soundings of the sea. Collections of specimens to 
illustrate the animal, mineral and vegetable kingdoms, 
were also directed to be made. 

The officers and crew appointed to these vessels werp : 

Dorothea^ 382 tons. 
Captain — David Buchan. 
Lieutenant — A. Morell. 
Surgeon — John Duke. 
Assistant Surgeon — W. G. Borland. 
Purser — John Jermain. 
Astronomer — George Fisher. 
Admiralty Mates — C. Palmer and W. J. Dealy. 
Greenland Pilots — P. Bruce, master ; G. Crawfurd, 

mate. 
45 petty officers, seamen, &c. 

Total complement, 55. 

Trent, 249 tons. 

Lieutenant and Commander — John Franklin. 

Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechy, (artist.) 

Purser — W. Barrett. 

Assistant Surgeon — A. GilfiUan. 

Admiralty Mates — A. Keid and George Back. 

Greenland Pilots — G. Fife, master ; G. Kirby, n^.:<ce. 

30 petty officers and seamen. 

Total complement, 38. 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AND FEA2«-KLIN. 47 

Having been properly fitted for the service, and ta- 
ken on board two years' provisions, the ships sailed on 
the 25th of April. The Trent had hardly got clear of 
the river before she sprang a leak, and was detained in 
the poll; of Lerwick nearly a fortnight undergoing 
repairs. 

On the 18th of May, the ships encountered a severe 
gale, and under even storm stay-sails were buried gun- 
wale deep in the waves. On the 24th they sighted 
Cherie Island, situated in lat. 74*^ 33' 'N., and long. 17° 
40' E., formerly so noted for its fishery, being much 
frequented by walrusses, and for many years the Mus- 
covy Comj)any carried on a lucrative trade by sending 
ships to the island for oil, as many as a thousand ani- 
mals being often captured by the crew of a single ship 
in the course of six or seven hours. 

The progress of the discovery ships through the small 
floes and huge masses of ice which floated in succes- 
sion past, was slow, and these, from their novelty, were 
regarded with peculiar attention from the grotesque 
shapes they assume. The progress of a vessel through 
such a labyrinth of frozen masses is one of the most in- 
teresting sights that offer in the Arctic seas, and kept 
the officers and ci*ew out of their beds till a late hour 
watching the scene. Capt. Beechey, the graphic nar- 
rator of the voyage, thus describes the general impres- 
sion created : — " There was besides, on this occasion, 
an additional motive for remaining up; very few of 
us had ever seen the sun at midnight, and this night 
happening to be particularly clear, his broad red disc, 
curiously distorted by refraction, and sweeping majes- 
tically along the northern horizon, was an object of im- 
posing grandeur, which riveted to the deck some of our 
crew, who would perhaps have beheld with indifference 
the less imposing effect of the icebergs; or it might have 
been a combination of both these phenomena ; for it 
cannot be denied that the novelty, occasioned by the 
floating masses, was materially heightened by the sin- 
gular effect produced by the very low altitude at which 
the sun cast his fiery beams over the icy surface of the 



48 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISOOVEEY. 

sea. The rays were too oblique to illuminate more than 
the inequalities of the floes, and falling thus partially 
on the grotesque shapes, either really assumed by the 
ice or distorted by the unequal refraction of the atmos- 
phere, so betrayed the imagination that it required no 
great exertion of fancy to trace in various directions ar- 
chitectural edifices, grottos and caves here and there 
glittering as if with precious metals. So generally, in- 
deed, was the deception admitted, that, in directing 
the route of the vessel from aloft, we for awhile deviated 
from our nautical phraseology, and shaped our course 
for a church, a tower, a bridge, or some similar structure^ 
instead of for lumps of ice, which were usually desig- 
nated by less elegant appellations." 

The increasing difficulties of this ice navigation soon, 
however, directed their attention from romance to the 
reality of their position, the perils of which soon be- 
came alarmingly apparent. 

" The streams of ice, between which we at first pur- 
sued our serpentine course with comparative ease, grad- 
ually became more narrow, and at length so impeded 
the navigation, that it became necessary to run the ships 
against some of these imaginary edifices, in order to turn 
them aside. Even this did not always succeed, as some 
were so substantial and immoveable, that the vessels 
glanced off to the opposite bank of the channel, and 
then became for a time embedded in the ice. Thus cir- 
cumstanced, a vessel has no other resource than that of 
patiently awaiting the change of position in the ice, of 
which she must take every advantage, or she will settle 
bodily to leeward, and become completely entangled." 

On the 26th the ships sighted the southern promon- 
tory of Spitzbergen, and on the 28th, while plying to 
windward on the western side, were overtaken by a 
violent gale at southwest, in which they parted com- 
pany. The weather was very severe. " The snow fell 
in heavy showers, and several tons weight of ice accu- 
mulated about the sides of the brig, (the Trent,) and form 
ed a complete casing to the planks, which received an 
additional layer at each plunge of the vessel. So great 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AND FEANEXIK. 49 

indeed, was the accnmulation about the bows, that we 
were obliged to cut it away repeatedly with axes to re- 
lieve the bow-sprit from the enormous weight that was 
attached to it ; and the ropes were so thickly covered 
with ice, that it was necessary to beat them with large 
sticks to keep them in a state of readiness for any evo- 
lution that might be rendered necessary, either by the 
appearance of ice to leeward, or by a change of wind." 

On the gale abating, Lieutenant Franklin found him- 
self surrounded by the main body of ice in lat. 80° ]^., 
and had much difficulty in extricating the vessel. — 
Had this formidable body been encountered in thick 
weather, while scudding before a gale of wind, there 
would have been very little chance of saving either the 
vessels or the crews. The Trent fortunately fell in with 
her consort, the Dorothea, previous to entering^ the ap- 
pointed rendezvous at Magdalena Bay, on the 3d of 
June. This commodious inlet being the first' port they 
had anchored at in the polar regions, possessed many 
objects to engage attention. What particularly struck 
them was the brilliancy of the atmosphere, the peace- 
ful novelty of the scene, and the grandeur of the vari- 
ous objects with which nature has stored these unfre- 
quented regions. The anchorage is formed by rugged 
mountains, which rise precipitously to the height of 
about 3000 feet. Deep valleys and glens occur between 
the ranges, the greater part of which are either filled 
with immense beds of snow, or with glaciers, sloping 
from, the summits of the mountainous margin to the 
very edge of the sea. 

The bay is rendered conspicuous by four huge gla- 
ciers, of which the most remarkable, though the small- 
est in size, is situated 200 feet above the sea, on the 
slope of a mountain. From its peculiar appearance 
this glacier has been termed the Hanging Iceberg. 

Its position is such that it seems as if a very small 
matter would detach it from the mountain, and precip- 
itate it into the sea. And, indeed, large portions of its 
front do occasionally break away and fall with head- 
long impetuosity upon the beach, to the great hazard 
4 



50 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. 

of any boat that may chance to be near. The largest 
of these glaciers occupies the head of the bay, and, 
according to Captain Beechey's account, extends from 
two to three miles inland. Numerous large rents in its 
upper surface have caused it to bear a resemblance to 
the ruts left by a wagon ; hence it was named by the 
Yoyagers the " Wagon Way." The frontage of this gla- 
cier presents a perpendicular surface of 300 feet in 
height, by 7000 leet in length. Mountain masses — 

" Whose blocks of sapphire seem to mortal eye 
Hewn from cerulean quarries in the sky, 
"With glacier battlements that crowd the spheres. 
The slow creation of six thousand years, 
Amidst immensity they tower sublime. 
Winter's eternal palace, built by Time." 

At the head of the bay there is a high pyramidal 
mountain of granite, termed Rotge Hill, Irom the myr- 
iads of small birds of that name which frequent its 
base, and appear to prefer its environs to every other 
part of the harbor. " They are so numerous that we 
have frequently seen an uninterrupted line of them ex- 
tending full half way over the bay, or to a distance of 
more than three miles, and so close together that thirty 
have fallen at one shot. This living column, on an aver- 
age, might have been about six yards broad, and as 
many deep ; so that, allowing sixteen birds to a cubic 
yard, there must have been nearly four millions of birds 
on the wing at one time. The number I have given cer- 
tainly seems large ; yet when it is told that the little 
rotges rise in such numbers as completely to darken 
the air, and that their chorus is distinctly audible at a 
distance of four miles, the estimate will not be thought 
to bear any reduction." 

One of their earliest excursions in this bay was an 
attempt to ascend the peak of Eotge Hill, " upon which," 
says Captain Beechey, " may now, perhaps, be seen at 
the height of about 2000 feet, a stan that once carried 
a red flag, which was planted there to mark the great- 
est height we were able to attain, partly in consequence 
of the steepness of the ascent, but mainly on account 
of the detached masses of rock which a very glight 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN ATTO FKANKLIN. 51 

matter would displace and hurl down the precipitous 
declivity, to the utter destruction of him who depended 
upon their support, or who might happen to be in 
their path below. The latter part of our ascent was, 
indeed, much against our inclination ; but we found it 
impossible to descend by the way we had come up, and 
were compelled to gain a ledge, which promised the 
only secure resting-place we could find at that height. 
This we were able to effect by sticking the tomahawks 
with which we were provided, into crevices in the rock, 
as a support for our feet ; and some of these instru- 
ments we were obliged to leave where they were driven, 
in consequence of the danger that attended their 
recovery." During the vessel's detention in this har- 
bor, the bay and anchorage were completely surveyed. 

When the first party rowed into this bay, it was in 
quiet possession of herds of walruses, who were so un- 
accustomed to the sight of a boat that they assembled 
about her, apparently highly incensed at the intrusion, 
and swam toward her as though they would have torn 
the planks asunder with their tusks. Their hides were 
so tough that nothing but a bayonet would pierce them. 
The wounds that were inflicted only served to increase 
their rage, and it was with much difficulty they were 
kept off with fire-arms. Subsequently the boats went 
better prepared and more strongly supported, and 
many of these monsters were killed ; some were four- 
teen feet in length, and nine feet girth, and of such 
prodigious weight, that the boat's crew could scarcely 
turn them. 

The ships had not been many days at their anchor- 
age when they were truly astonished at the sight of a 
strange boat pulling toward the ships, which was found 
to belong to some Russian adventurers, who were en- 
gaged in the collection of peltry and morse' teeth. This 
is the last remaining establishment at Spitzbergen still 
upheld by the merchants of Archangel. 

Although equally surprised at the sight of the ves- 
sels, the boat's crew took courage, and after a careful 
scrutiny, went on board the Dorothea; Captain Buchan 



62 PK0GKE8S OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. 

gave them a kind reception, and supplied them with 
whatever they wanted ; in return for which they sent 
on board, the following day, a side of venison in excel- 
lent condition. Wishing to gain some further inforaia- 
tion of these people, an officer accompanied them to 
their dwelling at the head of a small cove, about four 
miles distant from the bay, where he found a comfort- 
able wooden hut, well lined with moss, and stored with 
venison, wild ducks, &c. 

It is related by Captain Beechey that it was with ex- 
treme pleasure they noticed in this retired spot, proba- 
bly the most northern and most desolate habitation of 
our globe, a spirit of gratitude and devotion to the Al- 
mighty rarely exercised in civilized countries. "On 
landing from the boat and approaching their residence, 
these people knelt upon its threshold, and offered up a 
prayer with fervor and evident sincerity. The exact 
nature of the prayer we did not learn, but it was no 
doubt one of thanksgiving, and we concluded it was a 
custom which these recluses were in the habit of observ- 
ing on their safe return to their habitation. It may, at 
all events, be regarded as an instance of the beneficial 
effects which seclusion from the busy world, and a con- 
templation of the works of nature, almost invariably 
produce upon the hearts of even the most uneducated 
part of mankind." 

On the Tth of June the expedition left the anchorage 
to renew the examination of the ice, and after steering 
a few leagues to the northward, found it precisely in 
the same state as it had been left on the 2d. In spite 
of all their endeavors, by towing and otherwise, the 
vessels were driven in a calm by the heavy swell into 
the packed ice, and the increasing peril oi their situa- 
tion may be imagined from the following graphic de- 
scription : — 

" The pieces at the edge of the pack were at one time 
wholly immersed in the sea, and at the next raised far 
above their natural line of flotation, while those further 
in, being more extensive, were alternately depressed or 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AOT) FEAJ^EXm. 53 

elevated at either extremity as the advancing wave 
forced its way along. 

" The see-saw motion which was thus produced was 
alarming, not merely in appearance, but in fact, and 
must have proved fatal to any vessel that had encoun- 
tered it ; as floes of ice, several yards in thickness, were 
continually crashing and breaking in pieces, and the 
sea for miles was covered with fragments ground so 
small that they actually formed a thick, pasty sub- 
stance — in nautical language termed, ''hrash ice' — • 
which extended to the depth of ^lyq feet. Amidst this 
giddy element, our whole attention was occupied in en- 
deavoring to place the bow of the vessel, the strongest 
part of her frame, in the direction of the most formida- 
ble pieces of ice — a maneuver which, though likely to 
be attended mth the loss of the bowsprit, was yet prefer- 
able to encountering the still greater risk of having the 
broadside of the vessel in contact with" it ; for this would 
have subjected her to the chance of dipping her gun- 
wale under the floes as she rolled, an accident which, 
had it occurred, would either have laid open her side, 
or have overset the vessel at once. In either case, the 
event would probably have proved fatal to all on board, 
as it would have been next to impossible to rescue any 
person from the confused moving mass of brash ice 
which covered the sea in every direction." 

The attention of the seamen was in some degree di- 
verted from the contemplation of this scene of difii- 
culty by the necessity of employing all hands at the 
pump, the leak having gained upon them. But, for- 
tunately, toward morning, they got quite clear of the 
ice. 

Steering to the westward to reconnoiter, they fell in, 
m longitude 4° 30' E., with several whale ships, and 
were informed by them that the ice was quite compact 
to the westward, and that fifteen vessels were beset in 
it. Proceeding to the northward, the ships passed, on 
the 11th of June, Cloven Clifi", a remarkable isolated 
rock, which marks the northwestern boundary of Spitz- 
bergen, and steered along an intricate channel between 



54 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. 

the land and ice ; but, next morning, their further ad- 
vance was stopped, and the channel by which the ves- 
sels had entered became so completely closed up as to 
preclude the possibility also of retreating. Lieutenant 
Beechey proceeds to state — 

" The ice soon began to press heavily upon us, and, 
to add to our difficulties, we found the water so shallow 
that the rocks were plainly discovered under the bot- 
toms of the ships. It was impossible, however, by any 
exertion on our part, to improve the situations of the 
vessels. They were as firmly fixed in the ice as if they 
had formed part of the pack, and we could only hope 
that the current would not drift them into still shallower 
water, and damage them against the ground." 

The ships were here hemmed in in almost the same 
position where Baffin, Hudson, Poole, Captain Phipps, 
and all the early voyagers to this quarter had been 
stopped. 

As the tide turned, the pieces of ice immediately 
around the ships began to separate, and some of them 
to twist round with a loud grinding noise, urging the 
vessels, which were less than a mile from the land, still 
nearer and nearer to the beach. 

By great exertions the ships were hauled into small 
bays in the floe, and secured there by ropes fixed to the 
ice by means of large iron hooks, called ice anchors. 
Shifting the ships from one part of this floe to the other, 
they remained attached to the ice thirteen days. As 
this change of position could only be effected by main 
force, the crew were so constantly engaged in this har- 
assing duty, that their time was divided almost entirely 
between the windlass and the pump, until the men at 
length became so fatigued that the sick-list was seriously 
augmented. During this period, however, the situation 
of the leak was fortunately discovered, and the damage 
repaired. 

An officer and a party of men who left the Dorothea 
to pay a visit to the shore, about three or four miles 
distant, lost themselves in the fog and snow, and wan- 
dered about for sixteen hours, until, quite overcome 



VOYAGE OP B¥CHAIT AND FEANKLIN". 65 

with wet, cold and fatigue, they sat down in a state of 
despondency, upon a piece of ice, determined to submit 
their fate to Providence. Their troubles are thus told : 

"To travel over ragged pieces of ice, upon which 
there were two feet of snow, and often more, springing 
from one slippery piece to the other, or, when the chan- 
nels between them were too wide for this purpose, fer- 
rying themselves upon detached fragments, was a work 
which it required no ordinary exertion to execute. 

"Some fell into the water, and were with difficulty 
preserved from drowning by their companions ; while 
others, afraid to make any hazardous attempt whatever, 
were left upon pieces of ice, and drifted about at the 
mercy of the winds and tides. Foreseeing the proba- 
bility of a separation, they took the first opportunity 
of dividing, in equal shares, the small quantity of pro- 
vision which they had remaining, as also their stock of 
powder and ammunition. They also took it in turns to 
fire muskets, in the hope of being heard from the ships.'' 

The reports of the fire-arms were heard by their ship- 
mates, and Messrs. Fife and Kirby, the Greenland ice- 
masters, ventured out with poles and lines to their 
assistance, and had the good fortune to fall in with the 
party, and bring them safely on board, after eighteen 
hours' absence. They determined in future to rest sat- 
isfied with the view of the shore which was afibrded 
them from the ship, having not the slightest desire to 
attempt to approach it again by means of the ice. 

The pressure of the ice against the vessels now be- 
came very great. 

"At one time, when the Trent appeared to be so closely 
wedged up that it did not seem possible for her to be 
moved, she was suddenly lifted four feet by an enor- 
mous mass of ice getting under her keel ; at another^ 
the fragments of the crumbling floe were piled up 
under the bows, to the great danger of the bowsprit. 

"The Dorothea was in no less imminent danger, es- 
'pecially from the point of a floe, which came in contact 
with her side, where it remained a short time, and then 
glanced oft^, and became checked by the field to which 



56 PROGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

she was moored. The enormous pressure to wliicli the 
ship had been subjected was now apparent by the field 
being reoit^ and its point broken into fragments, which 
were speedily heaped up in a pyramid, thirty-five feet 
in height, upon the very summit of which there ap- 
peared a huge mass, bearing the impression of the 
planks and bolts of the vessel's bottom." 

Availing themselves of a break in the ice, the ships 
were moved to an anchorage between the islands con- 
tiguous to the Cloven Cliff; and on the 28th of June, 
anchored in fifteen fathoms water, near Yogel Sang. 
On the islands they found plenty of game, and eider- 
ducks. 

The island of Yogel Sang alone supplied the crews 
with forty reindeer, which were in such high condition 
that the fat upon the loins of some measured from four 
to six inches, and a carcass, ready for being dressed, 
weighed 285 pounds. Later in the season, the deer 
were, however, so lean that it was rare to meet with any 
fat upon them at all. 

On the 6th of July, finding the ice had been driven 
to the northward, the ships again put to sea, and Capt. 
Buchan determined to prove, by a desperate effort, 
what advance it was possible to make by dragging the 
vessels through the ice whenever the smallest opening 
occurred. This laborious experiment was performed 
by fixing large ropes to iron hooks driven into the ice, 
and by heaving upon them with the windlass, a party 
removing obsti'uctions in the channel with saws. But 
in spite of all their exertions, the most northerly posi- 
tion attained was 80° 37' N. Although fastened to the 
ice^ the ships were now drifted bodily to the southward 
by the prevailing current. They were also much in- 
jured by the pressure of hummocks and fields of ice. 

On the 10th of July, Captain Beechey tells us, the 
Trent sustained a squeeze which made her rise four 
feet, and heel over five streaks ; and on the 15th and 
16th, both vessels suffered considerable damage. " On 
that occasion," he says, "we observed a field fifteen 
feet in thickness break up, and the pieces pile upon 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AND FBAOT?TJN. 57 

each other to a great height, until they upset, when they 
rolled over with a tremendous crash. The ice near the 
ships was piled up above their bulwarks. Fortunately, 
the vessels rose to the pressure, or they must have had 
their sides forced in. The Trent received her greatest 
damage upon the quarters, and was so twisted that the 
doors of all the cabins flew open, and the panels oi 
some started in the frames, while her false stern-post 
was moved three inches, and her timbers cracked to a 
most serious extent. The Dorothea suffered still more : 
some of her beams were sprung, and two planks on the 
lower deck were split fore and aft, and doubled up, and 
she otherwise sustained serious injury in her hull. It 
was in vain that we attempted any relief ; our puny 
efforts were not even felt, though continued for eight 
hours with unabated zeal ; and it was not until the tide 
changed that the smallest effect was produced. "When, 
however, that occurred, the vessels righted and settled 
in the water to their proper draught." 

From the 12th to the 19th, they were closely beset 
with ice. For nine successive days following this the 
crews were occupied, night and day, in endeavoring to 
extricate the ships, and regain the open sea. Thinking 
he had given the ice a fair trial here, the commander 
deternjined upon examining its condition toward the 
eastern coast of Greenland, and in the event of finding 
it equally impenetrable there, to proceed round the 
south cape of Spitzbergen, and make an attempt be- 
tween that island and Kova Zembla. 

On the 30th of July, a sudden gale came on, and 
brought down the main body of the ice upon them, so 
that the ships were in such imminent danger that their 
only means of safety was to take refuge among it — a 
practice which has been resorted to by whalers in ex- 
treme cases — as their only chance of escaping destruc- 
tion. 

The following ig a description of the preparation 
made to withstand the terrible encounter, and the hair- 
breadth escape from the dangers : — 

" In order to avert the affects of this as much as pos- 



58 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

sible, a cable was cnt up into thirty-feet lengths, ana 
these, with plates of iron four feet sqnare, which had 
been supplied to us as fenders, together with some 
walrus' hides, were hung round the vessels, especially 
^bout the bows. The masts, at the same time, were se- 
cured with additional ropes, and the hatches were bat- 
tened and nailed down. By the time these precautions 
had been taken, our approach to the breakers only left 
us the alternative of either permitting the ships to be 
drifted broadside against the ice, and so to take their 
chance, or of endeavoring to force fairly into it by put- 
ting before the wind. At length, the hopeless state of 
a vessel placed broadside against so formidable a body 
became apparent to all, and we resolved to attempt 
the latter expedient." 

Eagerly, but in vain, was the general line of the pack 
scanned, to find one place more open than the other. 
All parts appeared to be equally impenetrable, and to 
present one unbroken line of furious breakers, in which 
immense pieces of ice were heaving and subsiding with 
the waves, and dashing together with a violence which 
nothing apparently but a solid body could withstand, 
occasioning such a noise that it was with the greatest 
difficulty the officers could make their orders heard by 
the crew. 

The fearful aspect of this appalling scene is thua 
sketched by Captain Beechey : — 

" E'o language, I am convinced, can convey an ade- 
quate idea of the terrific grandeur of the effect now pro- 
duced by the collision of the ice and the tempestuous 
ocean. The sea, violently agitated and rolling its moun- 
tainous waves against an opposing body, is at all times 
a sublime and awful sight ; but when, in addition, it 
encounters immense masses, which it has set in motion 
with a violence equal to its own, its effect is prodigi- 
ously increased. At one moment it bursts upon these 
icy fragments and buries them many feet beneath its 
v^^ave, and the next, as the buoyancy of the depressed 
body struggles for reascendancy, the water rushes in 
foaming cataracts over its edges ; while every indi- 



VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AND FEANKLIN. 59 

vidual mass, rocking and laboring in its bed, grinds 
against and contends with its opponent, until one is 
either split with the shock or upheaved upon the sur- 
face of the other. Nor is this collision confined to any 
particular spot ; it. is going on as far as the sight can 
reach ; and when from this .convulsive scene below, the 
eye is turned to the extraordinary appearance of the 
blink in the sky above, where the unnatural clear- 
ness of a calm and silvery atmosphere presents itself, 
bounded by a dark, hard line of stormy clouds, such as 
at this moment lowered over our masts, as if to mark 
the confines within which the efforts of man would be 
of no avail. The reader may imagine the sensation of 
awe which must accompany that of grandeur in the 
mind of the beholder." 

" K ever," continues the narrator, " the fortitude of 
seamen was fairly tried, it was assuredly not less so on 
this occasion ; and I will not conceal the pride I felt in 
witnessing the bold and decisive tone in which the 
orders were issued by the commander (the present 
Captain Sir John Franklin) of our little vessel, and the 
promptitude and steadiness with which they were exe- 
cuted by the crew." 

As the laboring vessel flew before the gaJe, she soon 
neared the scene -of danger. . 

"Each person instinctively secured his own hold, 
and with his eyes fixed upon the masts, awaited in 
breathless anxiety the moment of concussion. 

" It soon arrived, — the brig, (Trent) cutting her way 
through the light ice, came in violent contact with the 
main body. In an instant we all lost our footing ; the 
masts bent with the impetus, and the cracking timbers 
from below bespoke a pressure which was calculated to 
awaken our serious apprehensions. The vessel stag- 
gered under the shock, and for a moment seemed to 
recoil ; but the next wave, curling up under her coun- 
ter, drove her about her own length within the margin 
of the ice, where she gave one roll, and was immedi- 
ately thrown broadside to the wind by the succeeding 
wave, which beat furiously against her stern, and 



60 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. 

brought her lee-side in contact with the main body, 
leaving her weather-side exposed at the same time to 
a piece of ice about twice her own dimensions. This 
unfortunate occurrence prevented the vessel penetrat- 
ing sufficiently far into the ice to escape the effect of 
the gale, and placed her in a situation where she was 
assailed on all sides by battering-rams, if I may. use 
the expression, every one of which contested the small 
space which she occupied, and dealt such unrelenting 
blows, that there appeared to be scarcely any possibil- 
ity of saving her from foundering. Literally tossed 
from piece to piece, we had nothing left but patiently 
to abide the issue ; for we could scarcely keep our feet, 
much less render any assistance to the vessel. The mo- 
tion, indeed, was so great, that the ship's bell, which, in 
the heaviest gale of wind, had never struck of itself, 
now tolled so continually, that it was ordered to be 
muffled, for the purpose of escaping the unpleasant as 
sociation it was calculated to produce. 

" In anticipation of the worst, we determined to at 
tempt placing the launch upon the ice under the lee, 
and hurried into her such provisions and stores as could 
at the moment be got at. Serious doubts were reason- 
ably entertained of the boat being able to live among 
the confused mass by which we were encompassed; yet 
as this appeared to be our only refuge, we clung to it 
with all the eagerness of a last resource." 

■From the injury the vessel repeatedly received, it 
became very evident that if subjected to this concus- 
sion for any time, she could not hold together long ; the 
only chance of escape, therefore, appeared to depend 
upon getting before the wind, and penetrating further 
into the ice. 

To effect this with any probability of success, it be- 
came necessary to set more head-sail, though at the 
risk of the masts, already tottering with the pressure 
of that which was spread. By the expertness of the 
seamen, more sail was spread, and under this additional 
pressure of canvass, the ship came into the desired 
position, and with the aid of an enormous mass under 



VOYAGE OF BUOBAN AOT) FRANKLIN. 61 

the stern, she split a small field of ice, fourteen feet in 
thickness, which had hitherto impeded her progress, 
and effected a passage for herself between the pieces. 
In this improved position, by carefully placing the 
protecting fenders between the ice and the ship's sides, 
the strokes were much diminished, and she managed 
to weather out the gale, but lost sight of her consort in 
the clouds of spray which were tossed about, and the 
huge intervening masses of ice among which they were 
embayed. On the gale moderating, the ships were for- 
tunately got once more into an open sea, although both 
disabled, and one at least, the Dorothea, which had 
sustained the heavy shocks, in a foundering condition. 
For the main object of the expedition they were now 
useless, and, both being in a leaky state, they bore up 
for Fair Haven, in Spitzbergen. In approaching the 
anchorage in South Gat, the Trent bounded over a 
sunken rock, and struck hard, but this, after their re- 
cent danger, was thought comparatively light of. 

On examining the hulls of the vessels, it was found 
they had sustained frightful injuries. The intermediate 
lining of felt between the timbers and planks seems to 
have aided greatly in enabling the vessels to sustain 
the repeated powerful shocks they had encountered. 
Upon consulting with his officers, Captain Buchan came 
to the opinion that the most prudent course, was to 
patch up the vessels for their return voyage. Lieuten- 
ant Franklin preferred an urgent request that he might 
be allowed to proceed in his own vessel upon the inter- 
esting service still unexecuted ; but this could not be 
complied with, in consequence of the hazard to the 
crew of proceeding home singly in a vessel so shat- 
tered and unsafe as the Dorothea. After refitting, they 

ut to sea at the end of August, and reached England 

y the middle of October. 

Feanklin's Fiest Land ExPEnrnoN, 1819-21. 

In 1819, on the recommendation of the Lords of the 
Admiralty, Capt. Franklin was appointed to command 



I 



62 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

an overland expedition from Hudson's Bay to tlie north- 
ern shores of America, for the purpose of determining 
the latitudes and longitudes, and exploring the coast of 
the continent eastward from the Coppermine River. Dr. 
John Richardson, R. ]^., and two Admiralty Midship- 
men, Mr. George Back, (who had been out on the polar 
expedition, in the previous year, in H. M. S. Trent,) and 
Mr. Robert Hood, were placed under his orders. Pre- 
vious to his departure from London, Caj)t. Franklin ob- 
tained all the information and advice possible from Sir 
Alex. Mackenzie, one of the only two persons who had 
yet explored those shores. On the 23d of May, the party 
embarked at Gravesend, in the Prince of Wales, belong- 
ing to the Hudson's Bay Company, which immediately 
got under weigh in company with her consorts, the Ed- 
dystone ^nd w ear. Mr. Back, who was left on shore by 
accident in Yarmouth, succeeded in catching the ship at 
Stromness. On the 4th of August, in lat. 59° 58' E"., 
and long. 59° 53' W., they first fell in with large icebergs. 
On the following day, the height of one was ascertained 
to be 149 feet. After a stormy and perilous voyage they 
reached the anchorage at York Flats on the 30th of 
August. 

On the 9th of September, Capt. Franklin and his party 
left York Factory in a boat by the way of the rivers and 
lakes for Cumberland House, another of the Company's 
posts, which they reached on the 22d of October. 

On the 19th of January, Franklin set out in company 
with Mr. Back and a seaman named Hepburn, with pro- 
visions for fifteen days, stowed in two sledges, on their 
journey to Fort Chipewyan. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood 
and Mr. ConoUy accompanied them a short distance. 
After touching at difierent posts of the Company, they 
reached their destination safely on the 26th of March, 
after a winter's journey of 857 miles. The greatest diffi- 
culty experienced by the travelers was the labor of walk- 
ing in snow shoes, a weight of between two and three 
pounds being constantly attached to galled feet and 
swelled ankles. 

On the 13th of July, they were joined by Dr. Richard- 



son and Mr. Hood, wlio had made a very expeditious 
journey from Cumberland House ; they had only one 
day's provisions left, the pemmican'they had received at 
the posts being so mouldy that they were obliged to leave 
it behind . Arrangements were now made for their jour- 
ney northward, bixteen Canadian voyageurs were en- 
gaged, and a Chij)ewyan woman and two interpreters 
were to be taken on from Great Slave Lake. The whole 
stock of provisions they could obtain before starting was 
only sufficient for one day's supply, exclusive of two bar- 
rels of flour, three cases of preserved meats, some choco- 
late, arrow-root and portable soup, which had been 
brought from England, and were kept as a reserve for the 
journey to the coast in the following season; seventy 
pounds of deer's flesh and a little barley were all that 
the Company's officers could give them. The provisions 
w^ere distributed among three canoes, and the party set 
off in good spirits on the 18th of July. They had to 
make an inroad very soon on their preserved meats, for 
they were very unfortunate in their fishing. On the 
24th of July, however, they were successful in shooting 
a bufiklo in the Salt River, after giving him fourteen 
balls. At Moose Deer Island they got supplies from 
the Hudson's Bay and ISTorth "West Companies' officers, 
and on the 27th set out again on their journey, reaching 
Fort Providence by the 29th. ' 

Shortly after they had an interview with a celebrated 
and influential Indian chief, named Akaitcho, who was 
to furnish them with guides. Another Canadian voya- 
-geur was there engaged, and the party now consisted of 
the officers already named, Mr. Fred. Wentzel, clerk of 
the ]N". W. Fur Company, who joined them here, John 
Hepburn, the English seaman, seventeen Canadian voy- 
ageurs, (one of whom, named Michel, was an L'oquois,) 
and three Indian interpreters, besides the wives of three 
of the voyageurs who had been brought on for the pur- 
pose of making clothes and shoes for the men at the 
winter establishment. The whole number were twenty- 
nine, exclusive of three children. I give the list of those 
whose names occur most frequently in the narrative: 



64: PEOGEESS OP AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

J. B. Belanger, Peltier, Solomon Belanger, Samandre, 
Benoit, Perrault, Antonio Fontano, Beauparlant, Yail- 
lant, Credit, Adam St. Germain, inter j)reter; Angustns 
and Junius, Esquimaux interpreters. They had provis- 
ions for ten days' consumption, besides a little chocolate 
and tea, viz : two casks of flour, 200 dried reindeer 
tongues, some dried moose meat, portable soup, and a 
little arrow-root. A small extra canoe was provided for 
the women, and the journey for the Coppermine River 
w^as commenced on the 2d of August. The party met 
with many hardships — were placed on short diet — and 
some of the Canadians broke out into open rebellion, 
refusing to proceed farther. However, they were at last 
calmed, and arrived on the 20th of August at Fort En- 
terprise, on Winter Lake, which, by the advice of their 
Indian guides, they determined on making their winter 
quarters. The total length of the voyage from Chipe- 
wyan was 552 miles; and after leaving Fort Providence, 
they had 21 miles of portage to pass over. As the men 
had to traverse each portage with a load of 180 lbs., 
and return three times light, they walked, in the whole, 
upward of 150 miles. 

In consequence of the refusal of Akaitcho and his 
party of Indians to guide and accompany them to the 
sea, because, as they alledged, of the approach of win- 
ter, and the imminent danger, Captain Franklin was 
obliged to abandon proceeding that season down the 
river, and contented himself with dispatching, on the 
29th, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood, in a light canoe, with 
St. Germain as interpreter, eight Canadians, and one 
Indian, furnished with eight days' provisions — all that 
could be spared. 

i They returned on the 10th of September, after hav- 
ing reached and coasted Point Lake. In the mean time, 
Franklin and Ei chard son, accompanied by J. Hepburn 
and two Indians, also made a pedestrian excursion tow- 
ard the same quarter, leaving on the 9th of September, 
and returning on the fourteenth. The whole party 
spent a long winter of ten months at Fort Enterprise, 
depending upon the fish they could catch, and the sue 
cess of their Indian hunters, for food. 



65 

On tlie 6th of October, tlie officers quitted their tents 
for a good log house which had been built. The clay 
with which the walls and roof were plastered, had to 
be temj)ered before the fire with water, and froze as it 
was daubed on ; but afterward cracked in such a man- 
ner, as to admit the wind from every quarter. Still 
the new abode, with a good fire of fagots in the capa- 
cious clay-built chimney, was considered quite comfort- 
able when compared with the chilly tents. 

The reindeer are found on the banks of the Copper- 
mine Kiver early in May, as they then go to the sea- 
coast to bring forth their young. They usually retire 
from the coast in July and August, rut in October, and 
shelter themselves in the woods during winter. Before 
the middle of October, the carcasses of one hundred 
deer had been secured in their store-house, together with 
one thousand pounds of suet, and some dried meat ; 
and eighty deer were stowed away at various distances 
from their house, en caohe. This placing provisions 
"en cache," is merely burying and protecting it from 
wolves and other depredators, by heavy loads of wood 
or stone. 

On the 18th of October, Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel, 
accompanied by two Canadian voyageurs, two Indians 
and their wives, set out for Fort Providence to make 
the necessary arrangements for transporting the stores 
they expected from Cumberland House, and to see if 
some further supplies might not be obtained from the 
establishments on Slave Lake. Dispatches for Eng- 
land were also forwarded by them, detailing the pro- 
gress of the expedition up to this date. By the end of 
the month the men had also completed a house for 
themselves, 34 feet by 18. On the 26th of October, 
Akaitcho, and his Indian party of hunters, amounting 
with women and children to forty souls, came in, owing 
to the deer having migrated southward. This added 
to the daily number to be provided for, and by this time 
their ammunition was nearly expended. 

The fishing failed as the weather became more severe, 
and was given up on the 6th of Is'ovember. About 
5 



6b PEOGEESS OF ARCTIO DISCOVERY. 

1200 white fish, of from two to three pounds, had been 
procured during the season. The fish froze as they 
were taken from the nets, becoming in a short time a 
solid mass of ice, so that a blow or two of the hatchet 
would easily split them open, when the intestines might 
be removed in one lump. If thawed before the fire, 
even after being frozen for nearly tw^o days, the fish 
would recover their animation. 

On the 23d of JSTovember, they were gratified by the 
appearance of one of the Canadian voyageurs who had 
set out with Mr. Back. His locks were matted with 
snow, and he was so encrusted with ice from head to 
foot, that they could scarcely recognize him. He re- 
ported that they had had a tedioiis and fatiguing jour- 
ney to Fort Providence, and for some days were desti- 
tute of provisions. Letters were brought from England 
to the preceding April, and quickly was the packet 
thawed to get at the contents. The newspapers con- 
veyed the intelligence of the death of George HI. The 
advices as to the expected stores were disheartening ; 
of ten bales of ninety pounds each, ■G.ve had been i^ft 
by some mismanagement at the Grand' Rapid on tho 
Sattkatchawan. On the 28th of November, St. Ger- 
main the interpreter, with eight Canadian voyageurs, 
and four Indian hunters, were sent off to bring up the 
stores from Fort Providence. 

On the 10th of December, Franklin managed to get 
rid of Akaitcho and his Indian party, by representing 
to them the impossibility of maintaining them. The 
leader, however, left them his mother and two female 
attendants; and old Kaskarrah, the guide, with his wife 
and daughter, remained behind. This daughter, who 
was designated " Green Stockings," from her dress, was 
considered a great beauty by her tribe, and although 
but sixteen, had belonged successively to two husbands, 
and would probably have been thewdfe of many more, 
if her mother had not required her services as a nurse. 

Mr. Hood took a good likeness of the young lady, 
but her mother was somewhat averse to her sitting for 
it, fearing that " her daughter's likeness would induce 



67 

the Great CMef who resided in England to send for the 

original ! " 

The diet of the party in their winter abode consisted 
almost entirely of reindeer meat, varied twice a week 
by fi^, and occasionally by a little flour, but they had 
no vegetables of any kind. On Sunday morning they 
had a cup of chocolate ; but their greatest luxury was 
tea, which they regularly had twice a day, although 
without sugar. Candles were formed of reindeer fat 
and strips of cotton shirts; and Hepburn acquired con- 
siderable skill in the manufacture of soap from the wood 
ashes, fat and salt. The stores were anxiously looked 
for, and it was hoped .they would have arrived by ISTew 
Year's Day, (182^1,) so as to have kept the festival. As 
it was, they could only receive a little flour and fat^both 
of which were considered great luxuries. 

On the 15th, seven of the men arrived with two kegs 
of rum, one barrel of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two 
rolls of tobacco, and some clothing. 

" They had been twenty-one days on their march from 
Slave Lake, and the labor they underwent was sufii- 
ciently evinced by their sledge collars having worn oat 
the shoulders of their coats. Their loads weighed from 
sixty to ninety pounds each, exclusive of their bedding 
and provisions, which at starting must have been at least 
as much more. We were much rejoiced at their arrival, 
and proceeded forthwith to pierce the spirit cask, and 
issue to each of the household the portion of rum which 
had been promised on the first day of the year. The 
spirits, which were proof, were frozen; but after stand- 
ing at the fire for some time they flowed out, of the 
consistence of honey. The temperature of the liquid, 
even in this state, was so low as instantly to convert 
into ice the moisture which condensed on the surface of 
the dram-glass. The fingers also adhered to the glass, 
and would doubtless have been speedily frozen had they 
been kept in contact with it ; yet each of the voyageurs 
swallowed his dram without experiencing the slightest 
inconvenience, or complaining of toothache." 

It appeared that the Canadians had tapped the rum- 



C8 PKOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. 

cask on their journey, and helped themselves rather 
freely. 

On the 27th, Mr. Wentzel and St. Gei-main arrived, 
"with tv/o Esquimaux interpreters who had been engaged, 
possessed of euphonious names, representing the belly 
and the ear, but which had been Anglicised into Au- 
gustus and Junius, being the months they had respec- 
tively arrived at Fort Churchill. The former sj^oke 
English. They brought four dogs with them, which 
proved of great use during the season in drawing in 
wood for fuel. 

Mr. Back, at this time, the 24th of December, had 
gone on to Chipewyan to procure stores. On the 12th 
of February, another party of six mei; was sent to Fort 
Providence to bring uj) the remaining supplies, and 
these returned on the 5th of March. Many of the caches 
of meat which had been buried early in the winter were 
found destroyed by the wolves ; and some of these ani- 
mals prowled nightly about the dv/ellings, even ventur- 
ing upon the roof of their kitchen. The rations were 
reduced from eight to the short allowance of five ounces 
of animal food per day. 

On the 17th of March, Mr. Back returned from Fort 
Chipewyan, after an absence of nearly live montlis, 
during which he had performed a journej* on foot of 
more than eleven hundred miles on snow shoes, with 
only the slight shelter at night of a blanket and a deer 
skin, with the thermometer frequently at 40° and once 
at 57°, and very often passing several days without 
food. 

Some very interesting traits of generosity on the part 
of the Indians are recorded by Mr. Back. Often they 
gave up and would not taste of fish or birds which they 
caught, with the touching remark, " "We are accustomed 
to starvation, and you are not." 

Such passages as the following often occur in his 
narrative : — " One of our men caught a fish, which, with 
Jhe assistance of some weed scraped from the rocks, 
{tripe de roche) which forms a glutinous substance, made 
us a tolerable supper ; it was not of the most choice kind, 



FKAJSTKLIN'S FlEST LAND EXPEDTTIOIf. 69 

yet good enough for hungry men. "While we were eat- 
ing it, I perceived one of the women busily employed 
scraping an old skin, the contents of which her husband 
presented us with. They consisted of pounded meat, 
fat, and a greater jDroportion of Indian's and deer's hair 
than either ; and, though such a mixture may not appear 
very alluring to an English stomach, it was thought a 
great luxury after three days' privation in these cheer- 
less regions of America." 

To return to the proceedings of Fort Enterprise. On 
the 23d of March, the last of the winter's stock of deer's 
meat was expended, and the party were compelled to 
consume a little pounded m.eat, which had been saved 
for making pemmican. The nets scarcely produced any 
fish, and their meals, which had hitherto been scanty 
enough, were now restricted to one in the day. 

The poor Indian families about the house, consisting 
principally of sick and infirm women and children, suf- 
fered even more privation. They cleared away the 
snow on the site of the Autumn encampment to look for 
bones, deer's feet, bits of hide, and other ofial. " When 
(says Franklin) we beheld them gnawing the pieces of 
hide, and pounding the bones for the purpose of extract- 
ing some nourishment from them by boiling, we regret- 
ted our inability to relieve them, but little thought that 
we should ourselves be afterward driven to the neces- 
sity of eagerly collecting thei^ same bones, a second 
time from the dung-hill." 

On the 4th of June, 1821, a first party set off from 
the winter quarters for Point Lake, and the Coppermine 
Eiver, under the charge of Dr. Richardson, consisting, 
in all, voyageurs and Indians, of twenty-three, exclusive 
of children. Each of the men carried about 80 lbs., be- 
sides hig own personal baggage, weighing nearly as 
much more. Some of the pai-ty dragged their loads on 
.sledges, others preferred carrying their burden on their 
backs. On the 13th, Dr. Richardson sent back most of 
the men ; and on the 14th Franklin dispatched Mr. 
Wentzel and a party with the canoes, which had been 
repaired. Following the water-course as far as practi- 



70 PEOGEESS OF AKCnO DISCOVERY. 

cable to Winter Lake, Franklin followed himself with 
Hepbnrn, three Canadians, two Indian hunters, and 
the two Esquimaux, and joined Dr. Eichardson on the 
22d. On the 25th they all resumed their journey, and, 
as they proceeded down the river, were fortunate in 
killing, occasionally, several musk oxen. 

On the 15th they got a distinct view of the sea from 
the summit of a hill ; it appeared choked with ice and 
full of islands. About this time they fell in with small 
parties of Esquimaux. 

On the 19tli Mr. "Wentzel departed on his return for 
Slave Lake, taking with him four Canadians, who had 
been discharged for the purpose of reducing the expen- 
diture of provisions as much as possible, and dispatches 
to be forwarded to England. He was also instructed 
to cause the Indians to deposit a relay of provisions at 
Fort Enterprise, ready for the party should they return 
that way. The remainder of the party, including offi- 
cers, amounted to twenty persons. The distance that 
had been traversed from Fort Enterprise to the mouth 
of the river was about 334 miles, and the canoes ha'd to 
be dragged 120 miles of this. 

Two conspicuous capes were named by Franklin after 
Hearne and Mackenzie ; and a river which falls into the 
sea, to the westvrard of the Coppermine, he called after 
his companion, Richardson. 

On the 21st of July, Fianklin and his party embarked 
in their two canoes to navigate the Polar Sea, to the 
eastward, having with them provisions for fifteen days. 

On the 25th they doubled a bluif cape, which was 
named after Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty. An open- 
ing on its eastern side received the appellation of Inman 
Harbor, and a group of islands were called after Pro- 
fessor Jameson. Within the next fortnight, additions 
were made to their stock of food by a few deer and one 
or two bears, which were shot. Being less fortunate 
afterward, and with no prospect of increasing their sup- 
ply of provision, the daily allowance to each man was 
limited to a handful of pemmican and a small portion 
of portable soup. 



n 

On tlie morning of the '5th of August they came to 
the month of a river blocked iip with shoals, which 
Franklin named after his friend and companion Back. 

The time spent in exploring Arctic and Melville 
Sounds and Bathnrst Inlet, and the failure of meeting 
w^ith Esquimaux from whom provisions could be ol> 
tained, precluded any possibility of reaching Repulse 
Bay, and therefore having but a day or two's provisions 
left, Franldin considered it prudent to turn back after 
reaching Point Turnagain, having sailed nearly 600 
geographical miles in tracing the deeply indented coast 
of Coronation Gulf from the Coppermine River. On 
the 22d August, the return voyage was commenced, 
the boats making for Hood's River by the way of the 
Arctic Sound, and being taken as far up the stream as 
possible. On the 31st it was found impossible to pro- 
ceed with them farther, and smaller canoes were made, 
suitable for crossing any of the rivers that might ob- 
struct their progress. The weight carried by each man 
was about 90 lbs., and with this they progressed at the 
rate of a mile an hour, including rests. 

On the 5th of September, having nothing to eat, the 
last piece of pemmican and a little arrow-root having 
formed a scanty supper, and being without the means 
of making a fire, they remained in bed all day. A se- 
vere snow-storm lasted two days, and the snow even 
drifted into their tents, covering their blankets several 
inches. " Our suffering (says Franklin) from cold, in a 
comfortless canvass tent in such weather, with the tem- 
perature at 20°, and without fire, will easily be im- 
agined ; it was, however, less than that which we felt 
from hunger." 

Weak from fasting, and their garments stiffened with 
the frost, after packing tj^eir fi-ozen tents and bedclothes 
the poor travelers agam set out on the 7th. 

After feeding almost exclusively on several species 
of Gyrophora, a lichen known as tHjpe de rochey which 
scarcely allayed the pangs of hunger, on the 10th " they 
got a good meal by killing a musk ox. To skin and 
cut up the animal was the work of a few minutes. The 



V2 PKOGEESS OF AKOTIC DISCaYEEY. 

contents of its Btomach were devoured upon the spot, 
antl the raw intestines, which were next attacked, wero 
pronounced bj the most delicate amongst us to te ex- 
cellent." 

Wearied and worn out with toil and sufi'ering, many 
of the ij&Ttj got careless and indifferent. One. of the 
canoes was broken and abandoned. With an improvi- 
dence scarcely to be credited, three of the fishing-nets 
were also thrown away, and the floats burnt. 

On the 17th they managed to allay the pangs of hun- 
ger pj eating pieces of singed hide, and a little tripe de 
roche. This and some mosses, with an occasional sol- 
itary partridge, formed their invariable food ; on very 
many days even this scanty supply could not be obtained, 
and their appetites became ravenous. 

Occasionally they picked up pieces of skin, and a 
few bones of deer which had been devoured hj the 
wolves in the previous spring. The bones Vv^ere ren- 
dered friable by burning, and now and then their old 
shoes were added to the repast. 

On the 26th they reached a bend of the Coppermine, 
which terminated in Point Lake. The second canoe 
had been demolished and abandoned by the bearers on 
the 23d, and they were thus left without any means of 
water transport across the lakes and river. 

On this day the carcass of a deer was discovered in 
the cleft of a rock, into which it had fallen in the spring. 
It was putrid, but little less acceptable t*o the poor starv- 
ing travelers on that account ; and a fire being kin- 
dled a large portion was devoured on the spot, afford- 
ing an unexpected breakfast. 

On the first of October one of the party, who had 
been out hunting, brought in the antlers and backbone 
of another deer, which had been killed in the summer. 
The wolves and birds of prey had picked them clean, 
but there still remained a quantity of the spinal mar- 
row, which they had not been able to extract. This, 
although putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and 
the spine being divided into portions was distributed 
equally. " After eating the marrow, (says Franklin,) 



franklin's first land expedition. ,73 

which was so acrid as to excoriate the lips, we ren- 
dered the bones friable by bnrning, and ate them also." 

The strength of the whole party now began to fail, 
from the privation and fatigue which they endured. — 
Franklin was in a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr. 
Hood was also reduced to a perfect shadow, from the 
severe bowel-complaints which the tri2?e de roche never 
failed to give him. Back was so feeble as to require 
the support of a stick in walking, and Dr. Richardson 
had lameness superadded to weakness. 

A rude canoe was constructed of willows, covered 
with canvass, in which the party, one by one, managed 
to reach in safety the southern bank of the river on 
the 4th of October, and went supperless to bed. On 
the following morning, previous to setting out, the 
whole party ate the remains of their old shoes, and 
whatever scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their 
stomachs for the fatigue of the day's journey. 

Mr. Hood now broke down, as did two or three more 
of the party, and Dr. Richardson kindly volunteered 
to remain with them, while the rest pushed on to Fort 
Enterprise for succor. ISTot being able to find any tri2)e 
de Toclie^ Jthey drank an infusion of the Labrador tea- 
plant {Ledrum jpalustre^ var. decicmbens^ and ate a 
few morsels of burnt leather for supper. This contin- 
ued to be a frequent occurrence. 

Others of the party continued to drop down with fa- 
tigue and weakness, until they were reduced to five 
persons, besides Franklin. When they had no food or 
nourishment of any kind, they crept under their blank- 
ets, to drown, if possible, the gnawing pangs of hunger 
and fatigue by sleep. At length they reached Fort En- 
terprise, and to their disappointment and grief found 
it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no de- 
posit of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter 
from Mr. Wentzel to point out where the Indians might 
be found. "It would be impossible (says Franklin,) to 
describe our sensations after entering this miserable 
abode, and discovering how we had been neglected : 
the whole party shed tears, not so much for our own 



74 PBOaKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

fate as for that of our friends in the rear, whose lives 
depended entirely on our sending immediate relief 
from this place." A note, however, was found here 
from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the house 
by another route two days before, and was going in 
search of the Indians. If he was unsuccessful in hnd- 
ing them, he proposed walking to Fort Providence, 
and sending succor from thence, but he doubted whether 
he or his party could perform the journey to that place 
in their present debilitated state. Franklin and his 
small party now looked round for some means of pres- 
ent subsistence, and fortunately discovered several deer 
skins, which had been thrown away during their former 
residence here. The bones were gathered from the 
heap of ashes ; these, wdth the skins and the addition 
of trijpe de roche^ they considered would support life 
tolerably well for a short time. The bones were quite 
acrid, and the soup extracted from them, quite putrid, 
excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it was some- 
what milder when boiled with the lichen, and the mix- 
ture was even deemed palatable with a little salt, of 
which a cask had been left here in the spring. They 
procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the rooms, 
and water for cooking by melting the snow. 

Augustus arrived safe after them, just as they were 
sitting round the fire eating their supper of singed 
skin. 

Late on the 13th, Belanger also reached the house, 
with a note from Mr. Back, stating that he had yet 
found no trace of the Indians. The poor messenger 
was almost speechless, being covered with ice and 
nearly frozen to death, having fallen into a rapid, and 
for the third time since the party left the coast, narrowly 
escaped drowning. After being well rubbed, having 
had his dress changed, and some warm soup given 
him, he recovered sufficiently to answer the questions 
put to him. 

Under the impression that the Indians must be on 
their way to Fort Providence, and that it would be 
possible to overtake them, as they usually traveled 



75 

slowly witli their families, and there being likewise a 
prospect of killing deer about Reindeer Lake, where 
they had been usually found abundant, Franklin* de- 
termined to take the route for that post, and sent word 
to Mr. Back by Belanger to that eifect on the 18th. 

On the 20th of October, Franklin set out in com- 
pany with Benoit and Augustus to seek relief, having 
patched three pairs of snow shoes, and taken some 
singed skin for their support. Poltier and Samandre 
had volunteered to remain at the house with Adam, 
who was too ill to proceed. They were so feeble as 
scarcely to be able to move. Augustus, the Esqui- 
maux, tried for fish without success, so that their only 
fare was skin and tea. At night, composing them- 
selves to rest, they lay close to each other for warmth, 
but found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced 
through their famished frames. 

On resuming the journey next morning, Franklin 
had the misfortune to break his snow-shoes, by falling 
between two rocks. This accident prevented him from 
keeping pace with the others, and in the attempt he 
became quite exhausted ; unwilling to delay their pro- 
gress, as the safety of all behind depended on their 
obtaining early assistance and immediate supplies, 
Franklin resolved to turn back, while the others 
pushed on to meet Mr. Back, or, missing him, they 
were directed to proceed to Fort Providence. Frank- 
lin found the two Canadians he had left at the house 
dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low spirited that 
he had great difficulty in rallying them to any exer- 
tion. As the insides of their mouths had become sore 
from eating the bone-soup, they now relinquished the 
use of it, and boiled the skin, which mode of dressing 
was found more palatable than frying it. They had 
pulled down nearly all their dwelling for fuel, to warm 
themselves and cook their scanty meals. The tri^pe 
de roche^ on which they had depended, now became 
entirely frozen; and what was more tantalizing to 
their perishing frames, was the sight of food within 
their reach, which they could not procure. " We saw 



T6 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

(says Franklin) a herd of reindeer sporting on the 
river, abont half a mile from the house ; they re- 
mained there a long time, but none of the party felt 
themselves strong enough to go after them, nor was 
there one of us who could have fired a gun without 
resting it." 

While they were seated round the fire this evening, 
discoursing about the anticipated relief, the sound of 
voices was heard, which was thought with joy to be 
that of the Indians, but, to their bitter disappoint- 
ment, the debilitated frames and emaciated counte- 
nances of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn presented 
themselves at the door. They were of course gladly 
received, although each marked the ravages which fam- 
ine, care and fatigue had made on the other. The 
Doctor particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of 
the voices of his friends, which he requested them to 
make more cheerful if possible, unconscious that his 
own partook of the same key. 

Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought 
to the house, Dr. Richardson tore out the feathers, 
and having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided 
it into six portions. Franklin and his three compan- 
ions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the 
first morsel of flesh any of them had tasted for thirty- 
one days, unless, indeed, the small gristly particles 
which they found adhering to the pounded bones may 
be termed flesh. Their spirits were revived by this 
small supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise 
them still higher by the prospect of Hepburn's being 
able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen, and 
even fired at, several near the house. He endeavored, 
too, to rouse them into some attention to the comfort 
of their apartment. Having brought his Prayer-book 
and Testament, some prayers, psalms, and portions 
of scripture, appropriate to their situation, were read 
out by Dr. Richardson, and they retired to their 
blankets. 

Early next morning, the Doctor and Hepburn went 
out in search of game ; but though they saw several 



T7 

herds of deer, and fired some shots, they were not so 
fortunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their 
guns steadily. The cold compelled the former to re- 
turn soon, bat Hepburn perseveringly persisted until 
late in the evening. 

" My occupation, (continues Franklin) was to search 
for skins under the snow, it being now our object im- 
mediately to get all that we could ; but I had not 
strength to drag in more than two of those which were 
within twenty yards of the house, until the Doctor 
came and assisted me. We made up our stock to 
twenty-six; but several of them were putrid, and 
scarcely eatable, even by men suffering the extremity 
of famine. Peltier and Samandre continued very 
weak and dispirited, and they were unable to cut fire- 
wood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious 
task to perform after he came back late from hunting." 
To the exertions, honesty, kindness, and consideration 
of this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is 
to be attributed. And I may here mention that Sir 
John Franklin, when he became governor of Yan 
Diemen's Land, obtained for him a good civil appoint- 
ment. This deserving man, I am informed by Mr. 
Barrow, is now in England, having lost his ofiice, 
which, I believe, has been abolished. It is to be 
hoped something will be done for him by the govern- 
ment. 

After their usual supper of singed skin and bone 
soup. Dr. Eichardson acquainted Franklin with the 
events that had transpired since their parting, particu- 
larly with the afilicting circumstances attending the 
death of Mr. Hood, and Michel, the Iroquois ; the par- 
ticulars of which I shall now proceed to condense from 
his narrative. 

After Captain Franklin had bidden them farewell, 
having no tripe de roohe they drank an infusion of the 
country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, 
although it afforded no sustenance. They then retired 
to- bed, and kept to their blankets all next day, as the 
snow drift was so heavy as to prevent their lighting a 



78 PKOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

fire with the green and frozen willows, which were 
their only fuel. 

Through the extreme kindness and forethought of 
a lady, the party, previous to leaving London, had 
been furnished with a small collection of religious 
books, of which, (says Eichardson,) we still retained 
two or three of the most portable, and they proved of 
incalculable benefit to us. 

" We read portions of them to each other as we lay 
in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, 
and found that they inspired us on each perusal with 
so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent 
God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared 
no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with 
calmness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unre- 
strained confidence the past events of our lives, and 
dwelling with hope on our future prospects." How 
beautiful a picture have we here represented, of true 
piety and resignation to the divine will inducing pa- 
tience and submission under an unexampled load of 
misery and privation. 

■ Michel, the Iroquois, joined them on the 9th of Oc- 
tober, having, there is strong reason to believe, mur- 
dered two of the Canadians who were with him, Jean 
Baptiste Belanger and Perrault, as they were never 
seen afterward, and he gave so many rambling and 
contradictory statements of his proceedings, that no 
credit could 'be attached to his story. 

The travelers proceeded on their tedious journey by 
slow stages. Mr. Hood was much afi'ected with dim 
ness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of ex 
treme debility, which caused them to move slowly and 
to make frequent halts. Michel absented himself all 
day of the 10th, and only arrived at their encampment 
near the pines late on the 11th. 

He reported that he had been in chase of some deer 
which passed near his sleeping place in the morning, 
and although he did not come up with them, yet he 
found a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of 
a deer's horn, and had brought a part of it. 



79 

Kicliardsoii adds — " We implicitly believed this 
tdoTj then, but afterward became aware — from cir- 
cumstances, the details of which may be spared — that 
it must have been a portion of the body of Bel anger, 
or Perrault. A question of moment here presents it- 
self — namely, whether he actually murdered these 
men, or either of them, or whether he found the bodies 
in the snow. Captain Franklin, who is the best able to 
judge of this matter, from knowing their situation when 
he parted from them, suggested the former idea, and 
that both these men had been sacrificed ; that Michel, 
having already destroyed Belanger, completed his 
criilie by Perrault's death, in order to screen himself 
from detection." 

Although this opinion is founded only on circum- 
stances, and is unsupported by direct evidence, it has 
been judged proper to mention it, especially as the 
subsequent conduct of the man showed that he was 
capable of committing such a deed. It is not easy to 
assign any other adequate motive for his concealing 
from Richardson that Perrault had turned back ; while 
his request, over-night, that they would leave him the 
hatchet, and his cumbering himself with it when he 
went out in the morning, unlike a hunter, who makes 
use only of his knife when he kills a deer, seem to 
indicate that he took it for the purpose of cutting up 
comething that he knew to be frozen. 

Michel left them early next day, refusing Dr. Rich- 
ardson's offer to accompany him, and remained out all 
day. He would not sleep in the tent with the other 
two at night. On the 13th, there being a heavy gale, 
they passed the day by their fire, without food. Next 
day, at noon, Michel set out, as he said, to hunt, but 
returned unexpectedly in a. short time. This conduct 
surprised his companions, and his contradictory and 
evasive answers to their questions excited their sus- 
picions still further. He subsequently refused either 
to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly manner, 
and threatened to leave them. "When reasoned with 
by Mr. Hood, his anger was excited, and he replied it 
4. 



80 PROG-KESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

was no use hunting — there were no animals, and they 
had better kill and eat him. 

"At this period," observes Dr. Richardson, "we 
avoided, as much as possible, conversing upon the 
hopelessness of our situation, and generally endeav- 
ored to lead the conversation toward our future pros- 
pects in life. The fact is, that with the decay of our 
strength, our minds decayed, and we were no longer 
able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that sur- 
rounded us. Yet we were calm and resigned to our 
fate ; not a murmur escaped us, and we were punctual 
and fervent in our addresses to the Supreme Eeins^." 

On the morning of the 20th, they again urged Michel 
to go a-hunting, that he might, if possible, leave them 
some provision, as he intended quitting them next 
day, but he showed great unwillingness to go out, and 
lingered about the lire under the pretense of cleaning 
his gun. After the morning service had been read. 
Dr. Richardson went out to gather some tTi])e de rocJie^ 
leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the fire- 
side, arguing with Michel ; Hepburn was employed 
cutting fire-wood. While they were thus engaged, 
the treacherous Iroquois took the opportunity to place 
his gun close to Mr. Hood, and shoot him through the 
head. He represented to his companions that the de- 
ceased had killed himself. On examination of the 
body, it was found that the shot had entered the back 
part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and 
that the muzzle of the gun had been aj)plied so close 
as to set fire to the nightcap behind. Michel pro- 
tested his innocence of the crime, and Hepburn and 
Dr. Richardson dared not openly evince their suspi- 
cion of his guilt. 

Next day, Dr. Richardson determined on goiu^ 
straight to the Fort. They singed the hair off a pari 
of the buffalo robe that belonged to their ill-fated com 
panion, and boiled and ate it. In the course of theii 
march, Michel alarmed them much by his gestures 
and conduct, was constantly muttering to himself, ex- 
pressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried 



81 

to persuade them to go southward to the woods, where 
he said he could maintain himself all the winter by 
killing deer. " In consequence of this behavior, and 
the expression of his countenance, I requested him 
(says Richardson) to leave us, and to go to the south- 
ward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-na- 
ture ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing 
himself from all restraint on the morrow ; and I over- 
heard him muttering threats against Hepburn, whom 
he openly accused of having told stories against him. 
He also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of 
superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he con- 
sidered us to be completely in his power ; and he gave 
vent to several expressions of hatred toward the white 
people, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten 
his uncle and two of his relations. In short, taking 
every circumstance of his conduct into consideration, 
I came to the conclusion that he would attempt to 
destroy us on the fix'st opportunity that offered, and 
that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his 
ignorance of his way to the Fort, but that he would 
never suffer us to go thither in company with him. 
Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even 
an open attack, nor could we by any device escape 
from him — our united strength was far inferior to his ; 
and, beside his gun, he was armed with two pistols, 
an Indian bayonet, and a knife. 

" In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there 
was some ti^ipe de roche^ he halted, and said he would 
gather it while we went on, and that he would soon 
overtake us. 

" Hepburn and I were now left together for the first 
time since Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with 
several material circumstances, which he had observed 
of Michel's behavior, and which confirmed me in the 
opinion that there was no safety for us except in his 
death, and he offered to be the instrument of it. I de- 
termined, however, as I was thoroughly convinced of 
the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the wliole 
responsibility upon myself; and immediately upon Mi- 



82 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

ciiel's coming up, I put an end to his life by shooting 
him through the head with a pistol. Had my own life 
alone been threatened," observes Kichard^on, in conclu- 
sion, " I would not have purchased it by such a measure, 
but I considered myself as intrusted also with the pro- 
tection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane atten- 
tions and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me, 
that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own. 

" Michel had gathered no tripe dc roche^ and it was evi- 
dent to us that he had halted for the purpose of putting 
his gun in order with the intention of attacking us — 
perhaps while we were in the act of encamping." 

Persevering onward in their journey as well as the 
"snow storms and their feeble limbs would permit, they 
naw several herds of deer ; but Hepburn, who used to 
^e a good marksman, was now unable to hold the gun 
straight. Following the track of a wolverine which had 
bf^n dragging something, he however found the spine 
of a deer which it had dropped. It was clean picked, 
and at least one season old, but they extracted the spinal 
marrow from it. 

A species of cornicularia^ a kind of lichen, was also 
met with, that was found good to eat when moistened 
and toasted over the fire. They had still some pieces 
of singed buffalo hide remaining, and Hepburn, on 
one occasion, killed a partridge, after firing several 
times at a flock. About dusk of the 29th they reached 
the Fort. 

" Upon entering the desolate dwelling, we had the 
satisfaction of embracing Capt. Franklin, but no words 
can convey an idea of the filth and wretchedness that 
met our eyes on looking around. Our own misery had 
stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to 
the contemplation of each other's emaciated figures ; 
but the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and 
sepulchral voices of Captain Franklin and those with 
him were more than we could at first bear." 

Thus ends the narrative of Eichardson's journey. 

To resimie the detail of proceedings at the Fort. On 
the 1st of E"ovember two of the Canadians, Peltier and 
Samandre, died from sheer exhaustion. 



83 

On the 7th of ISToveinber they were relieved from 
their priTations and sufferings by the arrival of three 
Indians, bringing a supply of dried meat, some fat, and 
a few tongues, which had been sent off by Back with 
all haste from Akaitcho's encampment on the oth. 
These Indians nursed and attended them with the 
greatest care, cleansed the house, collected fire-wood, 
and studied every means for their general comfort. Their 
sufferings were now at an end. On the 26th of Novem- 
ber they arrived at the encampment of the Indian chief, 
Akaitcho. On the 6th of December Belanger and an- 
other Canadian arrived, bringing further supplies, and 
letters from England, from Mr. Back, and their former 
companion, Mr. Wentzel. 

The dispatches from England announced the success- 
ful termination of Captain Parry's voyage, and the pro- 
motion of Captain Franklin, Mr. Back, and of poor Mr. 
Hood. 

On the 18th they reached the Hudson's Bay Compa- 
ny's establishment at Moose Deer Island, where they 
joined their friend Mr. Back. They remained at Fort 
Chipewyan until June of the following year. 

It is now necessary to relate the story of Mr. Back's 
joui^ney, which, like the rest, is a sad tale of suffering 
and privation. 

Having been directed, on the 4th of October, 1821, 
to proceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beaupar- 
lant to Fort Enterprise, in the hopes of obtaining relief 
for the party, he set out. Tip to the Tth they met with 
a little trijpe de roche^ but this failing them they were 
compelled to satisfy, or rather allay, the cravings of 
hunger, by eating a gun-cover and a pair of old shoes. 
The grievous disappointment experienced on arriving 
at the house, and finding it a deserted ruin, cannot be 
told. 

"Without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of 
every resource, we felt ourselves," says Mr. Back, " re- 
duced to the most miserable state, which was rendered 
still worse from the recollection that our friends in the 
rear were as miserable as ourselves. For the moment, 



84 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

however, hunger prevailed, and each began to gnaw 
the scraj)s of putrid and frozen meat and skin that were 
lying about, without waiting to prepare them." A fire 
was, however, afterward made, and the neck and bones 
of a deer foimd in the house were boiled and devoured. 

After resting a day at the house, Mr. Back pushed on 
with his companions in search of the Indians, leaving a 
note for Captain Franklin, informing him if he failed in 
meeting with the Indians, he intended to 2>iish on for 
the first trading establishment — distant about 130 
miles — and send us succor from thence. On the 11th 
he set out on the journey, a few old skins having been 
first collected to serve as food. 

On the 13th and 14th of October they had nothing 
whatever to eat. Belanger was sent off with a note to 
Franklin. On the 15th they were fortunate enough to 
fall in with a partridge, the bones of which were eaten, 
and the remainder reserved for bait to fish with. 
Enough tripe de roche was, however, gathered to make 
a meal. Beauparlant now lingered behind, worn out 
by extreme weakness. On the 17th a number of crows, 
perched on some high pines, led them to believe that 
some carrion was near ; and on searching, several heads 
of deer, half buried in the snow and ice, without eyes 
or tongues, were found. An expression of " Oh, merci- 
ful God, we are saved," broke from them both and with 
feelings more easily imagined than described, they 
shook hands, not knowing what to say for joy. 

St. Germain was sent back, to bring up Beauparlant, 
for whose safety Back became very anxious, but he 
found the j^oor fellow frozen to death. 

The night of the 17th was cold and clear, but they 
could get no sleep. " From the pains of having eaten, 
we suffered (observes Back) the most excruciating tor- 
ments, though I in particular did not eat a quarter of 
what would have satisfied me ; it might have been from 
having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the 
legs of deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so 
great was our hunger." 

On the following day Belanger returned famishing 



85 

with hunger, and told of the pitiable state of Franklin 
and his reduced party. Back, both this day and the 
next, tried to urge on his companions toward the object 
of their journey, but he could not conquer their stub- 
born determinations. They said they were unable to 
proceed from weakness ; knew not the way ; that Back 
wanted to expose them again to death, and in fact loi- 
tered greedily about the remnants of the deer till the 
end of the moi;th. " It was not without the greatest 
difficulty that I could restrain the men from eating ev- 
ery scrap they found ; though they were well aware of 
the necessity there was of being economical in our pres- 
ent situation, and to save whatever they could for our 
journey, yet they could not resist the temptation ; and 
whenever my back was turned they seldom failed to 
snatch at the nearest piece to them, whether cooked or 
raw. Having collected with great care, and by self- 
denial, two small packets of dried meat or sinews suffi- 
cient (for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for 
eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day, 
they set out on the 30th. On the 3d of November they 
came on the track of Indians, and soon reached the 
tents of Akaitcho and his followers, when food was 
obtained, and assistance sent off" to Franldin. 

In July they reached York Factory, from whence 
they had started three years before, and thus terminated 
a journey of 5550 miles, during which human courage 
and patience were exposed to trials such as few can 
bear with fortitude, unless, as is seen in Franklin's in- 
teresting narrative, arising out of reliance on the ever- 
sustaining care of an Almighty Providence. 

Paeey's Fiest Yoyage, 1819-1820. 

The Admiralty having determined to continue the 
progress of discovery in the Arctic seas, Lieut. W. E. 
Parry, who had been second in command under Capt. 
Poss, in the voyage of the previous year, was selected 
to take charge of a new expedition, consisting of the 
Heel a and Griper. The chief object of this voyage was 
to pursue the survey of Lancaster Sound, and decide 



86 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

on the probability of a northwest passage in that di^ ac- 
tion; failing in which, Smith's and Jones' Sounds 
were to be explored, with the same purpose in view. 

The respective officers appointed to the ships, 
were — 

JECecla^ 375 tons : 
Lieut, and Commander — "W. E. Parry. 
Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey. 
Captain — E. Sabine, R. A., Astronomer. 
Purser — W. H. Hooper. 
Surgeon — John Edwards. 
Assistant Surgeon — Alexander Eisher. 
Midshipmen — James Clarke Ross, J. ISTias, "W. J. 

Dealy, Charles Palmei;, John Bushnan. 
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; G. Craw- 

furd, mate. 
44 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. 

Total complement, 68. 

Griper^ 180 tons : 

Lieutenant and Commander — Matthew Liddon. 

Lieutenant — H. P. Hoppner. 

Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. 

Midshipmen — A. Reid, A. M. Skene, W. N 
Griffiths. 

Greenland Pilots — George Fyfe, master ; A. Eld 
mate. 

28 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. 

Total complement, 36. 

The ships were raised upon, strengthened, and well 
found in stores and provisions for two years. On the 
11th of May, 1819, they got away from the Thames, 
and after a fair passage fell in with a considerable quan- 
tity of ice in the middle of Davis' Straits about the 
20th of June ; it consisted chiefly of fragments of ice- 
bergs, on the outskirts of the glaciers that form along 
the shore. After a tedious passage through the floes 
of ice, effected chiefly by heaving and warping, they 
arrived at Possession Bay on the morning of the 31st 



87 

of Jiily, being just a montli 'earlier tlian they were 
here on the previous year. As many as fifty whales 
were seen here in the course of a few hours. On land- 
ing, they were not a little astonished to find their own ■ 
footprints of the previous year, still distinctly visible in 
the snow. During an excursion of three or four miles 
into the interior, a fox, a raven, several ring-plovers 
and snow-buntings, were seen, as also a bee, from which 
it may be inferred that honey can be procured even in 
these wild regions. Vegetation flourishes remarkably 
well here, considering the high latitude, for wherever 
there was moisture, tufts and various ground plants 
grew in considerable abundance. 

Proceeding on from hence into the Sound, they veri- 
fied the opinion which had previously been entertained 
by many of the ofiicers, that the Crolcer Mountains 
had no existence, for on the 4:th of August, the ships 
were in long. 86° 56' "W"., three degrees to the westward 
of where land had been laid down by Ross in the pre- 
vious year. The strait was named after Sir John Bar- 
row, and was found to be pretty clear ; but on reach- 
ing Leopold Island, the ice extended in a compact body 
to the north, through which it was impossible to pene- 
trate. Rather than remain inactive, waiting for the 
dissolution of the ice. Parry determined to try what 
could be done by shaping his course to the southward, 
through the magnificent inlet now named Regent In- 
let. About the 6th of August, in consequence of the 
local attraction, the ordinary compasses became use- 
less from their great variation, and the binnacles were 
removed from the deck to the carpenter's store-room as 
useless lumber, the azimuth compasses alone remain- 
ing ; and . these became so sluggish in their motions, 
that they required to be very nicely leveled, and fre- 
quently tapped before the card traversed. The local at- 
traction was very great, and a mass of iron-stone found 
on shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The ships 
proceeded 120 miles from the entrance. 

On the 8th of August, in lat. 72° 13' K, and long. 
90° 29' W., (his extreme point of view Parry named 
4* 



88 PEOGSESS OF AECTIC DTSCOVEEY. 

Cape Kater,) the Hecla ' came to a compact barrier of 
ice extending across the inlet, which rendered one of 
two alternatives necessary, either to remain here until 
an opening took place, or to return again to the north- 
ward. The latter course was determined on. Making, 
therefore, for the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, on 
the 20th a narrow channel was discovered betw^een the 
ice and the land. On the 22d, proceeding due west, 
after passing several bays and headlands, they noticed 
two large openings or passages, the first of which, more 
■than eight leagues in width, he named Wellington 
Channel. To various capes, inlets, and groups of isl- 
ands passed. Parry assigned the names of Hotham, 
Barlow, Cornwallis, Bowen, Byam Martin, Griffith, 
Lowther, Bathurst, &c. On the 28th a boat was sent 
on shore at Byam Martin Island with Capt. Sabine, 
Mr. J. C. Koss, and the surgeons, to make observations, 
and collect specimens of natural history. The vegeta- 
tion was rather luxuriant for these regions; moss in 
particular grew in abundance in the moist valleys and 
along the banks of the streams that flowed from the 
hills. The ruins of six Esquimaux huts were observed. 
Tracks of reindeer, bears, and musk oxen were noticed, 
and the skeletons, skulls, and horns of some of these 
animals were found. 

On the 1st of September, they discovered the large 
and fine island, to which Parry has given the name of 
Melville Island after the First Lord of the Admiralty 
of that day. On the following day, two boats with a 
party of officers were dispatched to examine its shores. 
Some reindeer and musk oxen were seen on landing, 
but being startled by the sight of a dog, it was found 
impossible to get near them. There seemed here to be 
a great quantity of the animal tribe, for the tracks of 
bears, oxen, and deer were numerous, and the horns, 
skin, and skulls were also found. The burrows of foxes 
and field-mice were observed; several ptarmigan were 
shot, and flocks of snow-bunting, geese, and ducks, w^ere 
noticed, probably commencing their migration to a 
milder climate. Along the beach there was an im- 



89 

mense numLer of small shrimps, and various kinds of 
shells. 

On the 4th of September, Parry had the satisfaction 
of crossing the meridian of 110° W., in the latitude of 
74P 44' 20", hj which thei expedition became entitled 
to the reward of £5000, granted by an order in Coun- 
cil upon the Act 58 Geo. III., cap. 20, entitled, "An 
Act for more effectually discovering the longitude at 
sea, and encouraging attempts to find a northern pas- 
sage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and to 
approach the JSTorth Pole." This fact was not announced 
to the crews until the following day ; to celebrate the 
event they gave to a bold cape of the island then lying 
in sight the name of Bounty Cape ; and so anxious 
were they now to press forward, that they began to 
calculate the time when they should reach the longi- 
tude of 130° "W., the second place specified by the order 
in Council for reward. On the afternoon of the 5th, 
the compactness of the ice stopped them, and therefore, 
for the first time since leaving England, the anchor was 
let go, and that in 110° W. longitude. 

A boat was sent on shore on the 6th to procure turf 
or peat for fuel, and, strangely enough, some small 
pieces of tolerably good coal were found in various 
places scattered over the surface. A party of officers 
that went on shore on the 8th killed several grouse on 
the island, and a white hare ; a fox, some field-mice, 
several snow-bunting, a snowy owl, and four musk oxen 
were seen. Ducks, in small flocks, were seen along the 
shore, as well as several glaucous gulls and tern, and a 
;5olitary seal was observed. 

As the ships were coasting along on the Yth, two 
herds of musk oxen were seen grazing, at the distance 
of about three-quarters of a mile from the beach : one 
nerd consisted of nine, and the other of five of these 
cattle. They had also a distant view of two reindeer. 

The average weight of the hares here is about eight 
pounds. Mr. Fisher, the surgeon, from whose interest- 
ing journal I quote, states that it is very evident that 
this island must be frequented, if not constantly inhab 



90 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

ited, bv musk oxen in great numbers, for their bones and 
boms are found scattered about in all directions, and 
the greatest part of the carcass of one was discovered 
on one occasion. The skulls of two carnivorous ani- 
mals, a wolf and a lynx, were also picked up here. A 
party sent to gather coals brought on board about half 
a bushel — all they could obtain. 

On the morning of the 10th, Mr. George Fyfe, the 
master pilot, with a party of six men belonging to the 
Griper, landed with a view of making an exploring trip 
of some fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. They 
only took provisions for a day with them. Great un- 
easiness was felt that they did not retmm ; and when 
two days elapsed, fears began to be entertained for 
their safety, and it was thought they must have lost 
their way. 

Messrs. Eeid, (midshipman) Beverly, (assistant sur- 
geon) and Wakeman (clerk) volunteered to go in search 
of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their 
way ; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibited, 
they returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with 
cold and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends. 
Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent 
out on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search, 
and one of them fell in with and brought back four of 
the wanderers, and another the remaining three before 
nightfall. 

The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and 
they were all wearied and worn out with their wander- 
ings. It appears they had all lost their way the eve- 
ning of the day they went out. With regard to food, 
they were by no means badly off, for they managed to 
kill as many grouse as they could eat. 

They found fertile valleys and level plains in the in- 
terior, abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of 
fresh water, about two miles long by one broad, in which 
were several species of trout. They saw several herds 
of reindeer on the plains, and two elk ; also many 
hares, but no musk oxen. Some of those, however, who 
had been in search of the stray party, noticed herds of 
these cattle. 



91 

' The winter now began to set in, and the packed ice 
was so thick, that fears were entertained of being locked 
up in an exposed position on the coast ; it was, there- 
fore, thought most prudent to put back, and endeavor 
to reach the harbor which had been passed some days 
before. The vessels now got seriously buffeted among 
the floes and hummocks of ice. The Griper was forced 
aground on the beach, and for some time was in a very 
critical position. Lieutenant Liddon having been con- 
fined to his cabin by a rheumatic complaint, was pressed 
at this juncture by Commander Parry to allow himself 
to be removed to the Hecla, but he nobly refused, stating 
that he should be the last to leave the ship, and contin- 
ued giving orders. The beach being sand, the Griper 
was got off without injury. 

On the 23d of September they anchored off the 
mouth of the harbor, and the thermometer now fell to 
• 1°. The crew were set to work to cut a channel through 
the ice to the shore, and in the course of three days, a 
canal, two and a half miles in length, was completed, 
through which the vessel was tracked. The ice was 
eight or nine inches thick. An extra allowance of pre- 
served meat was served out to the men, in considera- 
tion of their hard labor. The vessels were unrigged, 
and every thing made snug and secure for passing the 
winter. Captain Parry gave the name of the I^orth 
Georgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty, King 
George III., but this has since been changed to the 
Parry Islands. 

Two reindeer were killed on the 1st of October, and 
several white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was 
killed, which weighed 170 pounds. Seven were seen 
on the 10th, one of which was killed, and another se- 
verely wounded. Following after this animal, night 
overtook several of the sportsmen, and the usual sig- 
nals of rockets, lights, &c. were exhibited, to guide 
them back. One, John Pearson, a marine, had his 
hands so frost-bitten that he was obliged, on the 2d of 
November, to have the four fingers of "his left hand am- 
putated. A wolf and four reindeer were seen on the 



93 PBOGRESS OF ABCTIO DISCOVEET. 

14tli. A herd of fifteen deer were seen on the 15tli; i 

but those who saw them could not bring down any, as 
their fowling-pieces missed fire, from the moisture 
freezing on the locks. On the 17th and 18th herds of 
eleven and twenty respectively, were seen, and a small 
one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which is 
described as equally cunning with his brethren of the 
temperate regions. 

To make the long winter pass as cheerfully as possi- 
ble, plays were acted, a school established, and a news- 
paper set on foot, certainly the first periodical publica- 
tion that had ever issued from the Arctic regions. The j 
title of this journal, the editorial duties of which were 
undertaken by Captain Sabine, was "The Winter 
Chronicle, or E"ew Georgia Gazette." The first num- 
ber appeared on the 1st of November. 

On the evening of the 5th of November the farce of 
" Miss in her Teens " was brought out, to the great 
amusement of the ships' companies, and, considering 
the local difiiculties and disadvantages under which the 
performers labored, their first essay, according to the 
officers' report, did them infinite credit. Two hours 
were spent very happily in their theater on the quarter- 
deck, notwithstanding the thermometer outside the ship 
stood at zero, and within as low as the freezing point, 
except close to the stoves, where it was a little higher. 
Another play was performed on the 24th, and so on 
every fortnight. The men were employed during the 
day in banking up the ships with snow. 

On the 23d of December, the officers performed " The 
Mayor of Garrett," which was followed by an after- 
piece, written by Captain Parry, entitled the " North- 
W est Passage, or the Yoyage Finished." The sun hav- 
ing long since departed, the twilight at noon was so 
clear that books in the smallest print could be distinctly 
read. 

On the 6th of January, the farce of " Bon Ton " was 
performed, with the thermometer at 27° below zero. — 
The cold became more and more intense. On the 12th 
it was 51° below zero, in the open air ; brandy froze to 



93 

the consistency of honey; when tasted in this state it 
left a smarting on the tongue. The greatest cold expe- 
rienced was on the 14th of January, when the ther- 
mometer fell to 52° below zero. On the 3d of Febru- 
ary, the sun was first visible above the horizon, after 
eighty-four days' absence. It was seen from the main- 
top of the ships, a height of about fifty-one feet above 
the sea. 

On the forenoon of the 24th a fire broke out at the 
storehouse, which was used as an observatory. All 
hands proceeded to the spot to endeavor to subdue the 
flames, but having only snow to throw on it, and the 
mats with which the interior was lined being very dry, 
it was found impossible to extinguish it. The snow, 
however, covered the astronomical instruments and se- 
cured them from the fire, and when the roof had been 
pulled down the fire had burned itself out. Consider- 
able as the fire was, its influence or heat extended but 
a very short distance, for several of the officers and 
men were frost-bitten, and confined from their efforts 
for several weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, who 
was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with 
Sergeant Martin, happened to be in the house at the 
time the fii'e broke out, suffered much more severely. 
In their anxiety to save the dipping needle, which was 
standing close to the stove, and of which they knew 
the value, they immediately ran out with it; and Smith 
not having time to put on his gloves, had his fingers in 
half an hour so benumbed, and the animation so com- 
pletely suspended, that on his being taken on board 
by Mr. Edwards, and having his hands plunged into 
a basin of cold water, the surface of the water was im- 
mediately frozen by the intense cold thus suddenly 
communicated to it; and notwithstanding the most hu- 
mane and unremitting attention paid him by the med- 
ical gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after, 
to resort to the amputation of a part of four fingers 
on one hand, and three on the other. 

Parry adds, " the appearance which our faces pre- 
sented at the fire was a curious one; almost every nose 



9*4 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

and cheek having become quite white with frost bites, 
in five minutes after being exposed to the weather, so 
that it was deemed necessary for the medical gentle- 
men, together with some others appointed to assist 
them, to go constantly round while the men were work- 
ing at the fire, and to rub with snow the parts afiected, 
in order to restore animation." 

The weather got considerably milder in March; on 
the 6th the thermometer got up to zero for the first 
time since the 17th of December. The observatory 
house on shore was now rebuilt. 

The vapor, which had been in a solid state on the 
ship's sides, now thawed below, and the crew, scraping 
ofi" the coating of ice, removed on the 8th of March, 
above a hundred bucketsfuU each, containing from five 
to six gallons, which had accumulated in less than a 
month, occasioned principally from the men's breath, 
and the steam of victuals at meals. 

The scurvy now broke out among the crew, and 
prompt measures were taken to remedy it. Captain 
JParry took great pains to raise mustard and cress in 
his cabin for the men's use. 

On the 30th of April, the thermometer stood at the 
freezing point, which it had not done since the 12th of 
September last. On the 1st of May, the sun was seen 
at midnight for the first time that season. 

A survey was now taken of the provisions, fuel, and 
stores; much of the lemon juice was found destroyed 
from the bursting in the bottles by the frost. Having 
been only victualed for two years, and half that period 
having expired , Captain Parry, as a matter of prudence 
reduced all hands to two-thirds allowance of all sorts of 
provisions, except meat and sugar. 

The crew were now set to work in cutting away the 
ice round the ships : the average thickness was found 
to be seven feet. Many of the men who had been out 
on excursions began to suffer much from snow blind- 
ness. The sensation when first experienced, is de- 
scribed as like that felt when dust or sand gets into 
the eyes. They were, however, cured in the course of 



95 

two or three days by keeping tlie eyes covered, and 
bathing them occasionally with sugar of lead, or some 
other cooling lotion. 

To prevent the recurrence of the complaint, the men 
were ordered to wear a piece of crape or some substi- 
tute for it over the eyes. 

The channel round the ships was completed by the 
ITth of May, and they rose nearly two feet, having 
been kept down by the pressure of the ice round them, 
although lightened during the winter by the consump- 
tion of food and fuel. On the 24th, they were aston- 
ished by two showers of rain, a most extraordinary 
phenomenon in these regions. Symptoms of scurvy 
again appeared among the crew ; one of the seamen 
who had been recently cured, having imprudently been 
in the habit of eating the fat skimmings, or " slush," in 
which salt meat had been boiled, and which was served 
out for their lamps. As the hills in many places now be- 
came exposed and vegetation commenced, two or three 
])ieces of ground were dug up and sown with seeds of 
radishes, onions, and other vegetables. Captain Parry 
determined before leaving to make an excursion across 
the island for the purpose of examining its size, bound- 
aries, productions, &c. Accordingly on the 1st of June, 
an expedition was organized, consisting of the com- 
mander, Captain Sabine, Mr. Fisher, the assistant-sur- 
geon, Mr. John Nias, midshipman of the Hecla, and 
Mr. Eeid, midshipman of the Griper, with two ser 
geants, and five seamen and marines. Three weeks 
provisions were taken, which, together with two tents, 
wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in all about 
800 lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for the purpose 
by the men. 

Each of the officers carried a knapsack with his own 
private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs., also his 
gun and ammunition. The party started in high glee, 
under three hearty cheers from their comrades, sixteen 
of whom accompanied them for five miles, carrying 
their knapsacks and dramng the cart for them. 

They traveled by nigM, taking icot by day, as it wj>si 



96 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

found to be wanner for sleep, and they had only a cov 
ering of a single blanket each, beside the clothes they 
had on. 

On the 2d, they came to a small lake, about half a 
mile long, and met with eider-ducks and ptarmigan ; 
seven of the latter were shot. From the top of a range 
of hills at which they now arrived, they could see the 
masts of the ships in Winter Harbor with the naked 
eye, at about ten or eleven miles distant. A vast plain 
was also seen extending to the northward and west- 
ward. 

The party breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of gruel 
each, made of salep powder, which was found to be a 
very palatable diet. Keindeer with- their fawns were 
met with. 

They derived great assistance in dragging their cart 
by rigging upon it one of the tent-blankets as a sail, a 
truly nautical contrivance, and the wind favoring them, 
they made great progress in this way. Captain Sabine 
being taken ill with a bowel complaint, had to be con- 
veyed on this novel sail carriage. They, however, had 
some ugly ravines to pass, the crossings of which were 
very tedious and troublesome. On the 7th the party 
came to a large bay, which was named after their ships, 
Hecla and Griper Bay. The blue ice was cut through 
by hard work with boarding pikes, the only instruments 
they had, and after digging fourteen and a half feet, 
the water rushed up ; it was not very salt, but sufficient 
to satisfy them that it was thS ocean. An island seen 
in the distance was named after Captain Sabine ; some 
of the various points and capes were also named after 
others of the party. Although this «hore was found 
blocked up with such heavy ice, there appear to be times 
when there is open water here, for a piece of fir wood 
seven and a half feet long, and about the thickness of 
a man's arm, was found about eighty yards inland from 
the hummocks of the beach, and about thirty feet above 
the level of the sea. Before leaving the shore, a monu- 
ment of stones, twelve feet high, was erected, in which 
were deposited, in a tin cylinder, an account of their 



97 

?i.'Ceeding3, a few coins, and several naval buttons, 
'he ex]3edition now turned back, shaping its course in 
a more westerly direction, toward some high blue hills, 
which had long been in sight. On many days several 
ptarmigans were shot. The horns and tracks of deer 
were very numerous. 

On the 11th they came in sight of a deep gulf, to 
which Lieutenant Liddon's name was given ; trie two 
capes at its entrance being called after Beechey and 
Iloppner. In the center was an island about three-quar- 
ters of a mile in length, and rising abruptly to the 
height of 700 feet. The shores of the gulf were very 
rugged and precipitant, and in descending a steep hill, 
the axle-tree of their cart broke, and they had to leave 
it behind, taking the body with them, however, for fuel. 
The wheels, which were left on the spot, may astonish 
some future adventurer who discovers them. The stcfres, 
&c., were divided among the officers and men. 

Making their way on the ice in the gulf, the island in 
the center was explored, and named after Mr. Hooper, 
the purser of the Hecla. It was found to be of sand- 
stone, and very barren, rising perpendicularly from the 
west side. Four fat geese were killed here, and a great 
many animals were seen around the gulf ; some atten- 
tion being paid to examining its shores, &c., a fine open 
valley was discovered, and the tracks of oxen and 
deer were very numerous ; the pasturage appeared to 
be excellent. 

On the 13th, a few ptarmigan and golden plover were 
killed. ]^o less than thirteen deer in one herd were 
seen, and a musk ox for the first time in this season. 

The remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered 
about 300 yards from the beach. Yegetation now be- 
gan to flourish, the sorrel was found far advanced, and 
a species of saxifrage was met with in blossom. They 
reached the ships on the evening of the 15th, after a 
journey of about 180 miles. 

The ships' crews, during their absence, had been occu- 
pied in getting ballast in and re-stowing the hold. 

Shooting parties were now sent out in various direc- 
7 



98 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISOOVEKT. 

tions to procure game. Dr. Fisher gives an interestin*^ 
account of his ten days' excursion with a couple of men. 
The deer were not so numerous as they expected to find 
them. About thirty were seen, of which his party 
killed but two, which were very lean, weighing only, 
when skinned and cleaned, 50 to 60 lbs. A couple of 
wolves were seen, and some foxes, with a great many 
hares, four of which were killed, weighing from 7 to 8 
lbs. The aquatic birds seen were — brent geese, king 
ducks, long-tailed ducks, and arctic and glaucous gulls. 
The land birds were ptarmigans, plovers, sanderlings 
and snow buntings. The geese were pretty numerous 
for the first few days, but got wild and wary on being 
disturbed, keeping in the middle of lakes out of gun- 
shot. About a dozen were, however, killed, and fifteen 
ptarmigans. These birds are represented to be so stu- 
pid, that all seen may be shot. Dr. Fisher was sur- 
prised on his return on the 29th of June, after his ten 
days' absence, to find how much vegetation had ad- 
vanced ; the land being now completely clear of snow, 
was covered with the purple-colored saxifrage in blos- 
som, with mosses, and with sorrel, and the grass was 
two to three inches long. The men were sent out twice 
a week to collect the sorrel, and in a few minutes enough 
could be procured to make a salad for dinner. After 
being mixed with vinegar it was regularly served out 
to the men. The English garden seeds that had been 
sown got on but slowly, an^. did not yield any produce 
in time to be used. 

On the 30th of June "Wm. Scott, a boatswain's mate, 
who had been afflicted with scurvy, diarrhoea, &c., 
died, and was buried on the 2d of July — a slab oi 
sandstone bearing an inscription carved by Dr. Fisher, 
being erected over his grave. 

From observations made on the tide during two 
months, it appears ths^t the greatest rise and fall here 
is four feet four inches. A large pile of stones was 
erected on the 14th of July, upon the most cons23icuous 
hill, containing the usual notices, coins, &c., and on a 
large stone an inscription was left, notify ing the winter- 
ing of the ships here. 



99 

On the 1st of August, the ships, which had been pre- 
viously warped out, got clear of the harbor, and found 
a channel, both eastward and westward, clear of ice, 
about three or four miles in breadth along the land. 

On the 6th thej landed on the island, and in the 
course of the night killed fourteen hares and a number 
of glaucous gulls, which were found with their young 
on the top of a precipitous, insulated rock. 

On the 9th the voyagers had an opportunity of ob- 
serving an instance of the violent pressure that takes 
place occasionally by the collision of heavy ice. " Two 
pieces," says Dr. Fisher, " that happened to come in 
contact close to us, pressed so forcibly against one an- 
other that one of them, although forty-two feet thick, 
and at least three times that in length and breadth, was 
forced up on its edge on the top of another piece of ice. 
But even this is nothing when compared with the pres- 
sure that must have existed to produce the efiects that 
we see along the shore, for not only heaps of earth and 
stones several tons weight are forced up, but hummocks 
of ice, from fifty to sixty feet thick, are piled up on the 
beach. It is unnecessary to remark that a ship, although 
fortified as well as wood and iron could make her, would 
have but little chance of withstanding such over- 
whelming force." 

This day a musk-ox was shot, which weighed more 
than 700 lbs.; the carcass, when skinned and cleaned, 
yielding 421 lbs. of meat. The flesh did not taste so 
very strong of musk as had been represented. 

The ships made but slow progress, being still thickly 
beset with floes of ice, 40 or 50 feet thick, and had to 
make fast for security to hummocks of ice on the beach. 

On the 15th and 16th they were off the southwest 
point of the island, but a survey of the locality from 
the precipitous cliff of Cape Dundas, presented the 
same interminable barrier of ice, as far as the eye could 
reach. A bold high coast was sighted to the southwest, 
to i^hieh the name of Bank's Land was given. 

Captain Parry states that on the 23d the ships re- 
ceived by far the heaviest shocks they had experienced 



iOO PEOGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEET. 

during the voyage, and performed six miles of the most 
difficult navigation lie had ever known among ice. 

Two musk bulls were shot on the 24:th by parties ^dl0 
landed, out of a herd of seven which were seen. They 
were lighter than the first one shot — w^eighing only 
about 360 lbs. From the number of skulls and skele- 
tons of these animals met with, and their capabidties 
of enduring the rigor of the climate, it seems probable 
that they do not migrate southward, but winter on this 
island. 

Attempts were still made to work to the eastward, 
but on the 25th, from want of wind, and the closeness 
of the ice, the ships were obliged to make fast again, 
without having gained above a mile after several hours' 
labor. A fresh breeze springing up on the 26th opened 
a passage along shore, and the ships made sail, to the 
eastward, and in the evening were off their old quarters 
in Winter Harbor. On the following evening, after a 
fine run, they were off the east end of Melville Isl*\nd. 
Lieut. Parry, this day, announced to the officers and 
crew that after due consideration and consultation, it 
had been found useless to prosecute their researches 
farther westward, and therefore endeavors would be 
made in a more southerly direction, failing in w^hich, 
the expedition would return to England. Begent Inlet 
and the southern shores generally, were found so blocked 
up with ice, that the return to England was on the 30th 
of August publicly announced. This day, ISTavy Board 
and Admiralty Inlets were passed, and on the 1st of 
September the vessels got clear of Barrow's Strait, and 
reached Baffin's Bay on the 5th. They fell in with a 
whaler belonging to Hull, from whom they learned the 
news of the death of George the Third and the Duke 
of Kent, and that eleven vessels having been lost in the 
ice last year, fears were entertained for their safety. 
The Friendship, another Hull whaler, informed them 
that in company with the Truelove, she had looked into 
Smith's Sound that summer. The Alexander, of Aber- 
deen, one of the ships employed on the former voyage 
of discovery to these seas, had also entered Lancaster 



faery's second voyage. 101 

Sound. After touching at Clyde's Eiver, where they 
met a good-natured tribe of Esquimaux, the ships made 
the best of their way across the Atlantic, and after a 
somewhat boisterous passage. Commodore Parry landed 
at Peterhead on the 30th of October, and, accompanied 
by Capt. Sabine and Mr. Hooper, posted to London. 



Pakky's Second Yoyage, 1821— 1823. 

The experience which Capt. Parry had formed in his 
previous voyage, led him to entertain the opinion that 
a communication might be found between Regent Inlet 
and Poe's Welcome, or through Repulse Bay, and thence 
to the northwestern shores. The following are his re- 
marks : — " On an inspection of the charts I think it 
will also appear probable that a communication will 
one day be found to exist between this inlet (Prince 
Regent's) and Hudson's Bay, either through the broad 
and unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Roe's Wel- 
come, or through Repulse Bay, which has not yet been 
satisfactorily examined. It is also probable that a chan- 
nel will be Ibuhd to exist between the western land and 
the northern coast of America." Again, in another 
place, he says : — " Of the existence of a northwest 
passage to the Pacific it is now scarcely possible to 
doubt, and from the succesr which attended our efforts 
in 1819, after passing thiuugh Sir James Lancaster's 
Sound, we were not unreasonable in anticipating its 
complete accomplishment. But the season in which it 
is practicable to navigate the Polar Seas does not exceed 
seven weeks. From all that we observed it seems desir- 
able that ships endeavoring to reach the Pacific Ocean 
by this route should keep if possible on the coast of 
America, and the lower in latitude that coast may be 
found, the more favorable will it prove for the purpose ; 
hence Cumberland Strait, Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, 
and Repulse Bay appear to be the points most worthy 
of attention. I cannot, therefore, but consider that any 
expedition equipped hy Great Britain with this, view 



102 PKOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

ought to employ its best energies in attempting to pene- 
trate from the eastern coast of America along its north- 
ern shore. In consequence of the partial success which 
has hitherto attended our attempts, the whalers have 
already extended their views, and a new field has been 
opened for one of the most lucrative branches of our 
commerce, and what is scarcely of less importance, one 
of the most valuable nurseries for seamen which Great 
Britain possesses."* 

Pleased with his former zeal and enterprise, and in 
order to give him an opportunity of testing the truth 
of his observations, a few months after he returned home, 
the Admiralty gave Parry the command of another ex- 
pedition, with instructions to proceed to Hudson's Strait, 
and penetrate to the w^estward, until in Repulse Bay, 
or on some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to 
the north of Wager River, he should reach the western 
coast of the continent. Failing in these quarters, he 
was to keep along the coast, carefully examining every 
bend or inlet, which should appear likely to afibrd a 
practicable passage to the westward. 

The vessels commissioned, wdth their officers and 
crews, were the following. Several of the officers of the 
former expedition were promoted, and those who had 
been on the last voyage with Parry I have marked with 
an asterisk : — 

Fun/. 

Commander — *W. E. Parry. 

Chaplain and Astronomer — Rev. Geo. Fisher, (was 
in the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, in 1818.) 

Lieutenants — *J. Nias and *A. Reid. 

Surgeon — *J. Edwards. 

Purser — '^W. H. Hooper. 

Assistant-Surgeon— J. Skeoch. 

Midshipmen — "^ J. C. Ross, *J. Bushnan, J. Hender- 
son, F. R. M. Crozier. 

*PaiTy's First Voyage, voL ii, p. 240. 



103 

Greenland Pilots — ^J. Allison, master ; G. Crawfiirdj 

mate. 
4:7 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. 

Total complement, 60. 

Hecla, 

Commander — G. F. Lyon. 
Lieutenants — *H. P. Hoppner and *C. Palmer. 
Sm-geon — "^A. Fisher. 
Pm'ser — J. Germain. 
• Assistant-Sm-geon — A. M'Laren. 

Midshipmen — ^W. IS". Griffiths, J. Sherer, C. Eich- 

ards, E. J. Bird. 
Greenland Pilots — *G. Fife, master; *A. Elder, mate. 
46 Petty Officers, seamen, &c. 

Total complement, 58. 

Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had ob- 
tained some reputation from his travels in Tripoli, 
Mourzouk, and other parts of JSTorthern Africa, and was 
raised to the rank of Commander, on his appointment 
to the Hecla, and received his promotion as Captain, 
,when the exj)edition returned. 

The ships were accompanied as far as the ice by 
the l^autilus transport, freighted with provisions and 
stores, which were to be transhipped as soon as room 
was found for them. 

The vessels got away from the little ISTore early on 
the 8th of May, 1821, but meeting with strong gales 
off the Greenland coast, and a boisterous passage, did 
not fall in with the ice until the middle of June. 

On the 17th of June, in a heavy gale from the south- 
ward, the sea stove and carried away one of the quar- 
ter boats of the Hecla. On the following day, in lat. 
60° 53' E"., long. 61° 39' W., they made the pack or 
main body of ice, having many large bergs in and 
near it. On the 19th, Pesolution Island, at the en- 
trance of Hudson's Strait, was seen distant sixty-four 
miles. Capt. Lyon states, that during one of the 



104: PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISOOVEEY. 

watches, a large fragment was observed to fall fron> 
an iceberg near the Heel a, which threw up the watei 
to a great height, sending forth at the same time a 
noise like the report of a great gun. From this pe- 
riod to the 1st of July, the ships were occupied in 
clearing the J^autilus of her stores, preparatory to 
her return home, occasionally made fast to a berg, or 
driven out to sea by gales. On the 2d, after running 
through heavy ice, they again made Resolution Island, 
and shaping their course for the Strait, were soon in- 
troduced to the company of some unusually large ice- 
bergs. The altitude of one was 258 feet above the 
surface of the sea ; its total height, therefore, allowing 
one-seventh only to be visible, must have been aboul 
1806 feet! This however, is supposing the base un 
der water not to spread beyond the mass above water 
The vessels had scarcely drifted past this floating 
mountain, when the eddy tide carried them with great 
rapidity among a cluster of eleven bergs of huge 
size, and having a beautiful diversity of form. The 
largest of these was 210 feet above the water. The 
floe ice was running wildly at the rate of three miles 
an hour, sweeping the vessels past the bergs, against 
any one of which, they might have received incalcu- 
lable injury. An endeavor w^as made to make the 
ships fast to one of them, (for all of them were aground,) 
in order to ride out the tide, but it proved unsuccess- 
ful, and the Fury had. much difficulty in sending a 
boat for some men who were on a small berg, making 
holes for her ice anchors. They were therefore swept 
past and soon beset. Fifty-four icebergs were counted 
from the mast-head. 

On the 3d, they made some progress through very 
heavy floes ; but on the tide turning, the loose ice flew 
together with such rapidity and noise, that there was 
barely time to secure the ships in a natural dock, be- 
fore the two streams met, and even then they received 
some heavy shocks. Water was procured for use 
from the pools in the floe to which the ships were 
made fast ; and this being the first time of doing so, 



105 

afforded great amusement to the novices, who, even 
when it was their period of rest, preferred pelting 
each other with snow-balls, to going to bed. Buffet> , 
ing with eddies, strong cm'rents, and dangerous bergs,^ 
they were kept in a state of anxiety and danger, for 
a week or ten days. On one occasion, with the pros- 
pect of being driven on shore, the pressure they ex- 
perienced was so great, that five hawsers, six inches 
thick, were carried away, and the best bower anchor 
of the Hecla was wrenched from the bows, and broke 
off at the head of the shank, with as much ease as if, 
instead of weighing upward of a ton, it had been of 
crockery ware. For a week they were embayed by 
the ice, and during this period they saw three strange 
ships, also beset, under Resolution Island, which they 
contrived to join on the 16th of July, making fast to 
a floe near them. They proved to be the Hudson's Bay 
Company's traders. Prince of Wales, and Eddystone, 
with the Lord Wellington, chartered to convey 160 
natives of Holland, who were proceeding to settle on 
Lord Selkirk's estate, at the Red River. " While 
nearing these vessels, (says Lyon,) we observed the 
settlers waltzing on deck, for above two hours, the 
men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and the women 
wearing long-eared mob caps, like those used by the 
Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and 
the thermometer was at the freezing point, it may be 
supposed that this ball, al vero fresco^ afforded us 
much amusement." The Hudson's Bay ships had 
left England twenty days after the expedition. 

The emigrant ship had been hampered nineteen 
days among the ice before she joined the others ; 
and as this navigation was new to her captain and crew, 
they almost despaired of ever getting to their jour- 
ney's end, so varied and constant had been their im- 
pediments. The Dutchmen had, however, behaved 
very philosophically during this period, and seemed 
determined on being merry, in spite of the weather 
and the dangers. Several marriages had taken place, 
,the surgeon, who was accompanying them to the col- 



106 PKOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCO VEET. 

ony, officiating as clergyman,) and many more were 
in agitation ; each, bappy couple always" deferring the 
ceremony until a fine day allowed of an evening ball, 
which was only terminated by a fresh breeze, or a fall 
of snow.* On the 17th, the ships were separated by 
the ice, and they saw no more of their visitors. On 
the 21st, they were only off the Lower Savage Islands. 
In the evening they saw a very large bear lying on a 
piece of ice, and two boats were instantly sent off in 
chase. They approached very close before he took 
to the water, when he swam rapidly, and made long 
springs, turning boldly to face his pursuers. It was 
with difficulty he was captured. As these animals, 
although very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die, 
he was lashed to a boat, and brought alongside the 
ship. On hoisting him in, they were astonished to 
find that his weight exceeded sixteen hundred pounds, 
being one of the largest ever killed. Two instances, 
only, of larger bears being shot are recorded, and 
these were by Barentz's crew, in his third voyage, at 
Cherie Island, to which they gave the name of Bear 
Island. The two bears killed then, measured twelve 
and thirteen feet, while this one only measured eight 
feet eight inches, from the snout to the insertion of the 
tail. The seamen ate the flesh without experiencing 
any of those baneful effects which old navigators at- 
tribute to it, and which are stated to have made three 
of Barentz's people " so sick that we expected they 
would have died, and their skins peeled off from 
head to foot." Bruin was very fat, and having pro- 
cured a tub of blubber from the carcass, it was thrown 
over board, aad the smell soon attracted a couple 
of walruses, the first that had been yet seen. 

They here fell in with a numerous body of the Es 
quimaux, who visited them from the shore. In less 
than an hour the ships were beset with thirty " ka- 
yaks," or men's canoes, and five of the women's large 
boats, or " oomiaks." Some of the latter held up- 
ward of twenty women. A most noisy but merry 
barter instantly took place, the crew being as anxious 

* Lyon's Private Journal, p. 11. 



107 

to purchase Esquimaux curiosities, as the natives were 
to procure iron and European toys. 

'^It is quite out of my power, (observes Captain 
Lyon,) to describe the shouts, yells, and laughter of 
the savages, or the confusion which existed for two or 
three hours. The females were at first very shy, and 
unwilling to come on the ice, but bartered every thing 
from their boats. This timidity, however, soon wore 
ofi*, and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois- 
terous as the men." " It is scarcely possible, (he adds) 
to conceive any thing more ugly or disgusting than 
the countenances of the old women, who had inflamed 
eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and, in fact, such a 
forbidding set of features as scarcely could be called 
human ; to which might be added their dress, which 
was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang- 
outangs. Frobisher's crew may be pardoned for hav- 
ing, in such superstitious times as a. d. 1576, taken 
one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said, 
' The old wretch whom our sailors supposed to be a 
witch, had her buskins pulled off, to see if she was 
cloven-footed ; and being very ugly and deformed, we 
let her go.' " 

In bartering they have a singular custom of ratify- 
ing the bargain, by licking the article all over before 
it is put away in security. Captain Lyon says he fre- 
quently shuddered at seeing the children draw a razor 
over their tongue, as unconcernedly as if it had been 
an ivory paper-knife. I cannot forbear quoting here 
some humorous passages from his journal, which stand 
out in relief to the scientific and nautical parts of the 
narrative. 

" The strangers were so well pleased in our society, 
that they showed no wish to leave us, and when the 
market had quite ceased, .they began dancing. and 
playing with our people, on the ice alongside. This 
exercise set many of their noses bleeding, and discov- 
ered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for 
their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the 
blood ran down, they scraped it with the fingers 



108 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DIBCOVEftT. 

into their moutlis, appearing to consider it as a re- 
freshment, or dainty, if we might judge by the zest 
with which they smacked their lips at each supply." 

" In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much 
as possible, the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he 
instantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of 
whom some of the women kept pretty good time. 
Their only figure consisted in stamping and jumping 
with all their might. Our musician, who was a lively 
fellow, soon caught the infection, and began cutting 
capers also. In a short time every one on the fioe, 
ofiicers, men, and savages, were dancing together, and 
exhibited one of the most extraordinary sights I ever 
witnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy 
complexion, excited the admiration of all the young 
females, who patted his face, and danced around him 
wherever he w^ent. 

" The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esqui- 
maux, that they had the, appearance of being boister- 
ously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks. 
Among others, it was a favorite joke to run slily be- 
hind the seamen, and shouting loudly in one ear, to 
give them at the same time a very smart slap on the 
other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this 
manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the 
great amusement of the bystanders : our cook, who 
was a most active and unwearied jumper, became so 
great a favorite, that every one boxed his ears so 
soundly, as to oblige the poor man to retire from such 
boisterous marks of approbation. Among other 
sports, some of the Esquimaux rather roughly, but 
with great good humor, challenged our people to 
wrestle. One man, in particular, who had thrown sev- 
eral of his countrymen, attacked an oificer of a. very 
strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown, 
and w^ith no very easy fall ; yet, although every one 
was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good 
humor. The same oificer afforded us much diversion 
by teaching a large party of women to bow, courtesy, 



pakey's second voyage. 109 

shake hands, turn their toes ont, and perform siin- 
diy other polite accomplishments ; the whole party 
master'and pupils, preserving the strictest gravity. 

" Toward midnight all our men, except the watch on 
deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and 
hungry Esquimaux returned to their boats to take their 
supper, which consisted of lumps of raw flesh and blub- 
ber of seals, birds, entrails, &c. ; licking their fingers 
with great zest, and with knives or fingers scraping the 
blood and grease which ran down their chins into their 
mouths." 

Many other parties of the natives were fallen in with 
during the slow progress of the ships, between Salisbury 
and Nottingham Islands, who were equally as eager to 
beg, barter, or thieve ; and the mouth was the general 
repository of most of the treasures they received ; nee- 
dles, pins, nails, buttons, beads, and other small etcete- 
ras, being indiscriminately stowed there, but detracting 
in nowise from their volubility of speech. On the 13th 
of August the weather being calm and fine, norwhals or 
sea-unicorns, were very numerous about the ships, and 
boats were sent, but without success, to strike one. 
There were sometimes as many as twenty of these 
beautiful fish in a shoal, lifting at times their immense 
horn above the water, and at others showing their 
glossy backs, which were spotted in the manner of 
coach dogs in England. The length of these fish is 
about fifteen feet, exclusive of the horn, which averages 
"^ve or six more. 

Captain Parry landed and slept on Southampton Isl- 
and. His boat's crew caught in holes on the beach 
suflicient sillocks, or young cOal-fish, to serve for two 
meals for the whole ship's company. During the night 
white whales were seen lying in hundreds close* to the 
rocks, probably feeding on the sillocks. After carefully 
examining Duke of "York Bay, the ships got into the 
Frozen Strait of Middleton on the morning of the 20th, 
and an anxious day was closed by passing an opening 
to the southward, which was found to be Sir Thomas 
Hoe's Welcome, and heaving to for the night off a bay 



110 PEOGEESS OF AKCTIC DISCO VEET. 

to the northwest. The ships got well in to Repnlse 
Bay on the 22d, and a careful examination of its shores 
was made by the boats. 

Captains Parry and Lyon, with several officers from 
each ship, landed and explored the northern shores, 
while a boat examined the head of the bay. The wa- 
ters of a long cove are described by Captain Lyon as 
being absolutely hidden by the quantities of young 
eider-ducks, which, under the direction of their moth- 
ers, v/ere making their first essays in swimming. 

Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip of a 
couple of days along some of the indents of the bay, 
and discovered an inlet, which, however, on being en- 
tered subsequently by the ships, proved only to be the 
dividing channel between an island and the main-land, 
about six miles in length by one in breadth. Proceed- 
ing to the northward by Kurd's channel, they expe- 
rienced a long rolling ground swell setting against them. 
On the 28th, ascending a steep mountain, Captai>t 
Lyon discovered a noble bay, subsequently named Gor > 
Bay, in which lay a few islands, and toward this the'i 
directed their course. 

Captain Parry, who had been two days absent witb 
boats exj)loring the channel and shores of the strait, r/>- 
turned on the 29th, but set oft* again on the same day 
with six boats to sound and examine more minutely. 
When Parry returned at night, Mr; Griffiths, of tfe 
Hecla, brought on board a large doe, which he h&d 
killed while swimming (among large masses of ice) fro^ii 
isle to isle ; two others and a fawn were procured c a 
shore by the Fury's people. The game laws, as th^ y 
were laid down on the former voyage while winteri\ 3 
at Melville Island, were once more put in force. The iQ 
" enacted that for the purpose of economizing the shi.fs 
provisions, all deer or musk-oxen killed should he 
served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat. 
Hares, ducks, and other birds were not at this time to 
be included. As an encouragem.ent to sportsmen, the 
head, legs, and offal of the larger animals were to be 
the perquisites of those who procured the carcasses for 



Ill 

the general good." " In the animals of this day (ob- 
serves Lyon) we were convinced that onr sportsmen 
had not forgotten the latitude to which their perquisites 
might legally extend, for the necks were made so long 
as to encroach considerably on the vertebrae of the 
back ; a manner of amputating the heads which had 
been learned during the former voyage, and, no doubt, 
would be strictly acted up to in the present one." 

While the ships on the 30th were proceeding through 
this strait, having to contend with heavy wind and 
wild ice, which with an impetuous tide ran against the 
rocks with loud crashes, at the rate of five knots in the 
center stream ; four boats towing astern were torn 
away by the ice, and, with the men in them, were for 
some time in great danger. The vessels anchored for 
the night in a small nook, and weighing at daylight 
on the Slst, they stood to the eastward, but Gore Bay 
was found closely packed with ice, and most of the in- 
lets they passed were also beset. 

A prevalence of fog, northerly wind, and heavy ice 
in floes of some miles in circumference, now carried 
the ships, in spite of constant labor and exertions, in 
three days, back to the very spot in Fox's Channel, 
where a month ago they had commenced their opera- 
tions. It was not till the 5th of September, that they 
could again get forward, and then by one of the usual 
changes in the navigation of these seas, the ships ran 
well to the northeast unimpeded, at the rate of six 
knots an hour, anchoring for the night at the mouth of 
a large opening, which was named Lyon Inlet. The 
next day they proceeded about twenty-five miles up 
this inlet, which appeared to be about eight miles broad. 
Captain Parry pushed on with two boats to examine 
the head of the inlet, taking provisions for a week. 
He returned on the 14th, having failed in finding any 
outlet to the place he had been examining, which was 
very extensive, full of fiords and rapid overfalls of the 
tide. lie had procured a sufficiency of game to afford 
his people a hot supper every evening, which, after the 
constant labor of the day, was highly acceptable. He 



112 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

fell in also with a small party of nativea a^ ho displayed 
the usual thieving propensities. 

Animal food of all kinds was found to be very plen- 
tiful in this locality. A fine salmon trout was brought 
down by one of the ofiicers from a lake in the moun- 
tains. The crew of the Hecla killed in a fortnight four 
deer, forty hares, eighty-two ptarmigan, fifty ducks, 
three divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, er- 
mines, marmottes, mice, &c. Two of the seals killed 
were immense animals of the bearded species {Phooa 
'barhata^ very fat, weighing about eight or nine cwt.; 
the others were the common species, {P. mtulina) 

Captain Parry again left in boats, on the 15th, to ex- 
amine more carefully the land that had been passed so 
rapidly on the 5th and 6th. iNTot finding him return 
on the 24th, Captain Lyon ran down the coast to meet 
him, and by burning blue lights, fell in with him at 
ten that night. It appeared he had been frozen up 
for two days on the second evening after leaving. 
When he got clear he ran down to, and sailed round, 
Gore Bay, at that time perfectly clear of ice, but by 
the next morning it was quite filled with heavy pieces, 
which much impeded his return. Once more he was 
frozen up in a small bay, where he was detained three 
days ; when, finding there was no chance of getting 
out, in consequence of the rapid formation of young 
ice, by ten hours' severe labor, the boats were carried 
over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide, and 
once more launched. 

On the 6th of October, the impediments of ice con- 
tinuing to increase, being met with in all its formations 
of sludges or young ice, pancake ice and bay ice, a 
small open bay within a cape of land, forming the 
southeast extremity of an island off Lyon Inlet, was 
sounded, and being found to be safe anchorage the ships 
were brought in, and, from the indications which were 
setting in, it was finally determined to secure them there 
for the winter ; by means of a canal half a mile long, 
which was cut, they were taken further into the bay. 
The island was named Winter Isle. 

Preparations were now made for occupation and 



113 

amusement, so as to pass away pleasantly the period 
of detention. A good stock of theatrical dresses and 
properties having been laid in by the officers before 
leaving England, arrangements were made for perform- 
ing plays fortnightly, as on their last winter residence, 
as a means of amusing the seamen, and in some degree 
to break the tedious monotony of their confinement. As 
there could be no desire or hope of excelling, every 
officer's name was readily entered on the list of drcb- 
Tnatis personce^ Captain Lyon kindly undertaking the 
difficult office of manager. Those ladies (says Lyon) 
who had cherished the growth of their beards and 
whiskers, as a defense against the inclemency of the 
climate, now generously agreed to do away with such 
unfeminine ornaments, and every thing bade fair for a 
most stylish theater. 

As a curiosity, I may here put on record the play 
bill for the evening. I have added the ship to which 
each officer belonged. 

THEATEE EOYAL, 

WmTER ISLE. 



The Public are respectfully informed that this little, 
yet elegant Theater, will open for the season on Fri- 
day next, the 9th of E"ovember, 1821, when will be 
performed Sheridan's celebrated Comedy of 

THE EIYALS. 

Sir Anthony Absolute Captain Parry, {Fiery.) 
Captain Absolute - - Captain Lyon, {Hecla.) 
Sir Lucius C Trigger ^ Mr. Crozier, {Fury) 
FaulTdand^ - - - - Mr. J. Edwards, {Fury) 
AcreSy ------ Mr. J. Henderson, {Fury.) 

Fay, Lieut. Hoppner, {Hecla) 

David, Lieut. Eeid, {Fury) 

Mrs. Malaprojp, Mr. C. Eichards, {Meda) 

Julia, Mr. W. H. Hooper, {Fury) 

Lydia Languish, - - Mr. J. Sherer, {Heda) 

Lucy, 'M.x.1^ .'WogQ^,{cV'kof Heda) 

8 



114 PKOGKESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEET. 

Songs by Messrs. C. Palmer, (Hecla,yand J. Hen- 
derson, will be introduced in the course of the eve- 
ning. 

On the ITth of December, a shivering set of actors 
performed to a great-coated, yet very cold audience, 
the comedy of the "Poor Gentleman." A burst of 
true English feeling was exhibited during the perform- 
ance of this play. In the scene where Lieut. Worth- 
ington and Corporal Foss recount in so animated a 
manner their former achievements, advancing at the 
same time, and huzzaing for " Old England," the 
whole audience, with one accord, rose and gave three 
most hearty cheers. They then sat down, and the 
play continued uninterrupted. 

On Christmas Eve, in order to keep the people 
quiet and sober, two farces were performed, and the 
phantasmagoria, (which had been kindly presented 
anonymously to the ships before leaving, by a lady,) 
exhibited, so that the night passed merrily away. 

The coldness of the weather proved no bar to the 
performance of a play at the appointed time. If it 
amused the seamen, the purpose was answered, but it 
was a cruel task to performers. " In our green-room, 
(says Lyon,) which was as much warmed as any other 
part of the Theater, the thermometer stood at 16°, and 
on a table which was placed over a stove, and about 
six inches above it, the coffee froze in the cups. For 
my sins, I was obliged to be dressed in the height of 
the fashion, as Dich Dowlas., in the " Heir at Law," 
and went through the last scene of the play with 
two of my fingers frost-bitten ! Let those who have 
witnessed and admired the performances of a Young, 
answer if he could possibly ha /e stood so cold a recep- 
tion." 

Captain Parry also states in his Journal, " Among 
the recreations which afforded the highest gratifica- 
tion to several among us, I may mention the musical 
parties we were enabled to muster, and which assem- 
bled on stated evenings throughout the winter, alter 



115 

cutely :ui <o<>iLcrQander Lyon's cabin, and in my own. 
More skillful aoaatenrs in music might well have smiled 
at these, our humble concerts, but it will not incline 
them to think less of the science they admire, to be 
assured that, in these remote and desolate regions of 
the globe, it has often furnished us with the most 
pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable 
of afibrding ; for, independently of the mere gratifica- 
tion afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps, 
scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in 
whose mind its sound is not more or less connected 
with ' his far distant home.' There are always some 
remembrances which render them inseparable, and 
those associations are not to be despised, which, while 
we are engaged in the performance of our duty, can 
still occasionally transport ns into the social circle of 
our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll be- 
tween us." But their "attention was not confined to 
mere amusements. Much to the credit of the seamen, 
an application was made in each ship for permission 
to open an evening school, which was willingly ac- 
ceded to. Almost every man could read, and some 
could write a little, but several found that, from long 
disuse, it was requisite to begin again. 

Mr. Halse volunteered to superintend the classes in 
the Fury ; while Benjamin "White,a seaman, who had been 
educated at Christ's Hospital, officiated as schoolmaster 
in the Hecla, and those best qualified to assist aided 
in the instruction of their shipmates, who made rapid 
progress under their tuition. On Christmas Day, Capt. 
Lyon states that he received sixteen copies from men, 
who, two months before, scarcely knew their letters. 
These little specimens were all well written, and sent 
with as much pride as if the writers had been good 
little schoolboys, instead of stont and excellent seamen. 

An observatory was erected on shore, for carrying 
on magnetical, astronomical, and other scientific opera- 
tions. Foxes were very plentiful about the ships ; fifteen 
were caught in one trap in four hours on the night of 
the 25th of October, and above one hundred were 



116 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISOOVEET. 

either trapped or killed in the course of three months, 
and yet there seemed but little diminution in their 
numbers. Captain Lyon says he found them not bad 
eating, the flesh much resembling that of kid. A pack 
of thirteen wolves came occasionally to have a look at 
the ships, and on one occasion broke into a snow-house 
alongside, and walked off with a couple of Esquimaux 
dogs confined there. Eears now and then also made 
their appearance. 

A very beautiful ermine walked on board the Hecla 
one day, and was caught in a small trap placed on the 
deck, certainly the first of these animals which was 
ever taken alive on board a ship 400 yards from the 
land. The ravenous propensities of even some of the 
smallest members of the animal kingdom are exempli- 
fied by the following extract : — 

" We had for some time observed that in the fire- 
hole, which was kept open in the ice alongside, a count- 
less multitude of small shrimps were constantly rising 
near the surface, and we soon found that in twenty-four 
hours they would clean, in the most beautiful manner, 
the skeletons." 

After attending divine service on Christmas day, the 
officers and crews sat down to the luxury of joints of 
English roast beef, which had been kept untainted by 
being frozen, and the outside rubbed with salt. Cran- 
berry pies and puddings, of every shape and size, with 
a full allowance of spirits, followed, and, probably the 
natural attendance of headaches succeeded, for the 
next morning it was deemed expedient to send all the 
people for a run on the ' ice, in order to put them to 
rights ; but thick weather coming on, it became neces- 
sary to recall them, and, postponing the dinner hour, 
they were all danced sober by one o'clock, the fiddler 
being, fortunately, quite as he should be. During this 
curious ball, a witty fellow attended as an old cake 
woman, with lumps of frozen snow in a bucket ; and 
such was the demand for his pies on this occasion, that 
he was obliged to replenish pretty frequently. The 
year had now drawn to a close, and all enjoyed excel- 



117 

lent healtli, aad were blessed witt good spirits, and zeal 
far the renewal of their arduous exertions in the sum- 
mer. 

"No signs of scurvy, the usual plague of such voy- 
ages, had occurred, and by the plans of Captain Parry, 
as carried out on the former voyage, a sufficiency of 
mustard and cress was raised between decks to afibrd 
all hands a salad once, and sometimes twice a week. 
The cold now became intense. Wine froze in the bot- 
tles. Port was congealed into thin pink laminae, which 
lay loosely, and occupied the whole length of the bot- 
tle. White wine, on the contrary, froze into a solid 
and perfectly transparent mass, resembling amber. 

On the 1st of February the monotony of their life 
was varied by the arrival of a large party of Esqui- 
maux, and an interchange of visits thenceforward took 
place with this tribe, which, singularly enough, were 
proverbial for their honesty. Ultimately, however, 
they began to display some thievish propensities, for 
on one evening in March a most shocking theft was 
committed, which was no less than the last piece of 
English corned beef from the midshipmen's mess. 
Had it been an 181b. carronade, or even one of the an- 
chors, the thieves would have been welcome to it ; but 
to purloin English beef in such a country was unpar- 
donable. 

On the 16th of March Captain Lyon, Lieutenant 
Palmer, and a party of men, left the ship, with pro- 
visions, tents, &c., in a large sledge, for an excursion 
of three or four days, to examine the land in the neigh- 
borhood of the ships. 

The first night's encampment was anything but com- 
fortable. Their tent they found so cold, that it was 
determined to make a cavern *in the snow to sleep in ; 
and digging this afforded so good an opportunity of 
warming themselves, that the only shovel was lent from 
one to the other as a particular favor. After digging 
it of sufficient size to contain them all in a sitting pos- 
ture, by means of the smoke of a fire they managed to 
raise the temperature to 20°, amd, closisg the entrance 



118 PEOGRESS OF AECTIG DISCOVEKT. 

witii blocks of snow, crept into tbeir blanket bags and 
tried to sleep, with the pleasant reflection that their 
roof might fall in and bur j them all, and that their one 
spade was the only me^ns of liberation after a night's 
drift of snow. 

They woke next morning to encounter a heavy gale 
and drift, and found their sledge so embedded in the 
snow that they could not get at it, and in the attempt 
their faces and extremities were most painfully frost- 
bitten. The thermometer was at 32° below zero ; they 
could not, moreover, see a yard of the road ; yet to re- 
main appeared worse than to go forward — the last 
plan was, therefore, decided on. The tent, sledge, and 
luggage were left behind, and with only a few pounds 
of bread, a little rum, and a spade, the party again set 
out ; and in order to depict their sufferings, I must take 
up the narrative as related by the commander himself : 

"ISFot knowing where to go, we wandered among 
the heavy hummocks of ice, and suffering from cold, 
fatigue and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered. 
Several of our party now began to exhibit symptoms 
of that horrid kind of insensibility which is the pre- 
lude to sleep. They all professed extreme willingness 
to do what they were told in order to keep in exercise, 
but none obeyed ; on the contrary, they reeled about 
like drunken men. The faces of several were severely 
frost-bitten, and some had for a considerable time lost 
sensation in their fingers and toes ; yet they made not 
the slightest exertion to rub the parts affected, and even 
discontinued their general custom of warming each 
other on observing a discoloration of the skin. Mr. 
Palmer employed the people in building a snow wall, 
ostensibly as a shelter from the wind, but in fact to 
give them exercise, when standing still must have 
proved fatal to men in our circumstances. My atten- 
tion w^as exclusively directed to Sergeant Speckman, 
who, having been repeatedly warned that his nose was 
frozen, had paid no attention to it, owing to the state 
of stupefaction into which he had fallen. The frost- 
bite had now extended over one isid© of his face, which 



119 

vras frozen as hard as a mask ; the eyelids were stiff, 
and one corner of the npper lip so drawn np as to 
expose the teeth and gums. My hands being still 
warm, I had the happiness of restoring the circnlation, 
after which I used all my endeavors to keep the poor 
fellow in motion ; bnt he complained sadly of giddi- 
ness and dimness of sight, and was so weak as to be 
unable to walk without assistance. His case was so 
alarming, that I expected every moment he would lie 
down, never to rise again. 

"Our prospect now became every moment more 
gloomy, and it was but too probable that four of our 
party would be unable to survive another hour. Mr. 
JPalmer, however, endeavored, as well as myself, to 
cheer the people up, but it was a faint attempt, as we 
had not a single hope to give them. Every piece of 
ice, or even of small rock or stone, was now supposed 
to be the ships, and we had great difficulty in prevent- 
ing the men from running to the different objects which 
attracted them, and consequently losing themselves in 
the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer was running 
round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched on a 
new beaten track, and as exercise was indispensable, 
we determined on following it, wherever it might lead 
us. Having taken the Sergeant under my coat, he re- 
covered a little, and we moved onward, when to our 
infinite joy we found that the path led to the ships." 

As the result of this exposm-e, one man had two of 
his fingers so badly frost-bitten as to lose a good deal 
of the fiesh of the upper ends, and for many days it 
was feared that he would be obliged to have them am- 
putated. Quarter-master Carr, one of those w^ho had 
been the most hardy while in the air, fainted twice on 
getting below, and every one had severe frost-bites in 
dift'erent parts of the body, which recovered after the 
usual loss of skin in these cases. 

One of the Esquimaux females, by name Igloolik, 
who plays a conspicuous part in the narrative, was a 
general favorite, being possessed of a large fund of 
useful information, having a good voice and ear for 



120 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. 

music, being an excellent seamstress, and having such 
a good idea of the hydrography and bearings of the 
neighboring sea-coasts, as to draw charts which guided 
Parry much in his future operations, for he found her 
sketches to be in the main correct. She connected the 
J and from their winter quarters to the northwest sea, 
rounding and terminating the northern extremity of 
this part of America, by a large island, and a strait of 
sufficient magnitude to afford a safe passage for the 
ships. This little northwest passage, observes Lyon, 
set us all castle-building, and we already fancied the 
worst part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that 
before half the ensuing summer was past, we should 
arrive at Akkoolee, the Esquimaux settlement on the 
western shore. Half-way between that coast and Ke- 
pulse Bay, Igloolik drew on her chart a lake of consid- 
erable size, having small streams running from it to 
the sea, on each side ; and the correctness of this infor- 
mation was fully proved by Kae in his recent expedi- 
tion in 1846. 

On the 13th of April their Esquimaux friends took 
their departure for other quarters ; towards the end of 
the month the crews completed the cutting of trenches 
round the vessels, in order that they might rise to their 
proper bearings previous to working in the holds, and 
the ships floated like corks on their native element, 
after their long imprisonment of 191 days. As the 
season appeared to be improving, another land expedi- 
tion was determined on, and Captain Lyon and Lieu- 
tenant Palmer, attended by a party of eight men, set 
off on the 8th of May, taking with them twenty days' 
provisions. Each man drew on a sledge 126 lbs., and 
the officers 95 lbs. a-piece. 

" Loaded as we were," says the leader, " it was with 
the greatest difficulty we made our way among and 
over the hummocks, ourselves and sledges taking some 
very unpleasant tumbles. It required two and a half 
hours to cross the ice, although the distance was not 
two miles, and We then landed on a small island, where 
we passed the night." 



paeey's second votagi;. 121 

i&A^veral islands and shoals in the strait were named 
Bird's Isles. At noon on the 11th, they camped at the 
head of a fine bay, to which the name of Elake was 
given. In spite of all the care which had been taken 
bj using crape shades, and other coverings for the eyes, 
five of the party became severely afflicted with snow 
blindness. Before evening two of the sufferers were 
qnite blinded by the inflammation. Their faces, eyes, 
and even heads, being much swollen, and very red. 
Bathing would have afforded relief, but the sun did not 
produce a drop of water, and their stock of fuel being 
limited, they could only spare enough wood to thaw 
snow for their midday draught. 

As the morning of the 12th brought no change in the 
invalids, another day was lost. Toward evening, by 
breaking pieces of ice, and placing them in the full 

flare of the sun, sufficient water was obtained, both for 
rinking and for the sick to bathe their faces, which 
afforded them amazing relief, and on the morrow they 
were enabled to resume their journey. At noon the 
sun was sufficiently powerful to afford the travelers a 
draught of water, without having to thaw it, as had 
hitherto been the case. 

For nearly three days after this, they were imprisoned 
in their low tent by a snow-storm, but on the morning 
of the 18th, they were enabled to sally out to stretch 
their legs, and catch a glimpse of the sun. After exam- 
ining many bays and indentations of the coast, the party 
returned to the ships, on the evening of the 21st. A 
canal was now cut through the ice, to get the ships to 
the open water, in length 2400 feet, and varying in 
breadth from 60 to 197 feet. The average thickness of 
the ice was four feet, but in some places it was as much 
as twelve feet. This truly arduous task had occupied the 
crews for fifteen days, from six in the morning to eight 
in the evening ; but they labored at it with the greatest 
spirit and good humor, and it was concluded on the 18th 
of June, when the officers and men began to take leave 
of their several haunts and promenades, particularly 
the " garden " of each ship, which had become favorite 



122 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. 

lounges during their nine montlis' detention. A few 
ill-fated bunting came near enough to be shot, and were 
instantly roasted for a farewell supper, and bright vis- 
ions of active exertions on the water on. the morrow 
were universally entertained. But the night dispelled 
all these airy castles, for with the morning's dawn they 
found that the whole body of ice astern of the ships 
had broke adrift, filled up the hard-wrought canal, and 
imprisoned them as firm as ever. 

Death now for the first time visited the crews. James 
Pringle, a seaman of the Hecla, fell from the mast-head 
to the deck, and was killed on the 18th of May. Wm. 
Souter, quarter-master, and John Reid, Carpenter's 
mate, belonging to the Fury, died on the 26th and 2Tth, 
of natural causes. Toward the end of June, the sea 
began to clear rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice 
soon gave way as far as where the ships were lying, and 
on the 2d of July they put to sea with a fresh breeze, 
after having been frozen in for 267 days. 

In making their way to the northward, they were fre- 
quently in much danger. On the 3d, the ice came 
down on the Hecla with such force as to carry her on 
board the Fury, by which the Hecla broke her best bower 
anchor, and cut her waist-boat in two. On the 4:th, the 
pressure of the ice was so great as to break the Hecla 
adrift from three hawsers. Four or five men were each 
on separate pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the 
endeavor to run out a hawser. A heavy pressure closing 
the loose ice unexpectedly gave them a road on board 
again, or they must have been carried away by the 
stream to certain destruction. On the 8th, the Hecla 
had got her stream-cable out, in addition to the other 
hawsers, and made fast to the land ice, when a very 
heavy and extensive floe took the ship on her broad 
side, and being backed by another large body of ice, 
gradually lifted her stem as if by the action of a wedge. 

" The weight every moment increasing, obliged us,'' 
says Captain Lyon, " to veer on the hawsers, whose fric- 
tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads, 
and ultimately to set them on fire, so that it became 



- PAEEy's SEdOND VOYAGE. 123 

requisite for people to attend with buckets of water. 
The pressure was at length too powerful for resistance, 
and the stream-cable, with two six and one live-inch 
hawsers, all gave way at the same moment, three others 
soon following them. The sea was too full of ice to 
allow the ship to drive, and the only way in which she 
could yield to the enormous w^eight which oppressed her, 
was by leaning over on the land ice, while her stem at 
the same time was entirely lifted to above the height of 
five feet out of the water. The lower deck beams now 
complained very much, and the whole frame of the 
ship underwent a trial which would have proved fatal 
to any less strengthened vessel. At the same moment, 
the rudder was unhung with a sudden jerk, which broke 
up the rudder-case, and struck the driver-boom with 
great force." 

From this perilous position she was released almost 
by a miraclCj and the rudder re-hung. 

The ships a", last reached the island which had been so 
accurately described to them by the Esquimaux lady — • 
Iglolik, where they came upon an encampment of 
120 Esquimaux, in tents. Captains Parry and Lyon 
and other officers made frequent exploring excursions 
along the shores of the Fury and Hecla strait, and in- 
land. On the 26th of August the ships entered this 
strait, which was found blocked up with flat ice. The 
season had also now assumed so wintry an aspect that 
there seemed but little probability of getting much far- 
ther west : knowing of no harbor to protect the ships, 
unless a favorable change took place, they had the 
gloomy prospect before them of wintering in or near 
this frozen strait. Boating and land parties wei^ dis- 
patched in several directions, to report upon the differ- , 
ent localities. 

On the 4th of September, Captain Lyon landed on 
an island of slate formation, about six miles to the west- 
w^ard of the ships, w^hich he named Amherst Island. The 
result of these expeditions proved that it was impr'cJ- 
cable, either by boats or water conveyance, to examine 
any part of the land southwest of Iglolik, in conse- 
quence of the ice. 



124: PROGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. 

Mr. Eeid and a boat-party traveled about sixty miles 
to the westward of Amherst Island, and ascertained the 
termination of the strait. On a consultation with the 
officers, Captain Parry determined to seek a berth near 
to Iglolik, in which to secure the ships for the winter. 
They had now been sixty-five days struggling to get 
forward, but had only in that time reached forty miles 
to the westward of Iglolik. The vessels made the best 
of their way to the natural channel between this island 
and the land, but were for some time drifted with the 
ice, losing several anchors, and it was only by hard 
work in cutting channels that they were brought into 
safer quarters, near the land. Some fine teams of dogs 
were here purchased from the Esquimaux, which were 
found very serviceable in making excursions on sledges. 

Their second Christmas day in this region had now 
arrived, and Lyon informs us — 

" Captain Parry dined with me, and was treated with 
a superb display of mustard and cress, with about fifty 
onions, rivaling a fine needle in size, which I had reared 
in boxes round my cabin stove. AU our messes in 
either ship were supplied with an extra pound of real 
English fresh beef, which had been hanging at our 
quarter for eighteen months. "We could not afibrd to 
leave it for a farther trial of keeping, but I have no doubt 
that double the period would not have quite spoiled its 
flavor." 

This winter proved much more severe than the for- 
mer. Additional clothing was found necessary. The 
stove funnels collected a quantity of ice within them, 
notwithstanding fires were kept up night and day, so 
that jt was frequently requisite to take them down in 
order to break and melt the ice out of them. 

Nothing was seen of the sun for forty-two days. 

On the 15th of April, Mr. A. Elder, Greenland mate 
of the Hecla, died of dropsy: he had been leading man 
with Parry on Eoss's voyage, and for his good conduct 
•^as made mate of the Griper, on the last expedition. 

On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. George Fife, the 
pilot, also died of scurvy. 



VOYAGE. 125 

After taking a review of their provisions, and the 
probability of having to pass a third winter here, Capt. 
Farry determined to send the Hecla home, taking from 
her all the provision that could be spared. Little or 
no hopes could be entertained of any passage being 
found to the westward, otherwise than by the strait now 
so firmly closed with ice ; but Parry trusted that some 
interesting additions might be made to the geography 
of these dreary regions, by attempting a passage to the 
northward or eastward, in hopes of finding an outlet to 
Lancaster Sound, or Prince Kegent's Lilet. 

On the 21st of April, 1823, they began transshipping 
the provisions ; the teams of dogs being found most 
useful for this purpose. Even two anchors of 22 cwt. 
each, wer^ drawn by these noble animals at a quick 
trot. 

Upon admitting daylight at the stern windows of the 
Hecla, on the 22d, the gloomy, sooty cabin showed to 
no great advantage ; no less than ten buckets of ice were 
taken from the sashes and out of the stern lockers, from 
which latter some spare flannels and instruments were 
only liberated by chopping. 

On the 7th of June, Captain Lyon, with a party of 
men, set off across the Melville Peninsula, to endeavor 
to get a sight of the western sea, of which they had re- 
ceived descriptive accounts from the natives, but ow- 
ing to the diflieulties of traveling, and the ranges of 
mountains they met with, they returned unsuccessful, 
after being out twenty days. Another inland trip of a 
fortnight followed. 

On the 1st of August, the Hecla was reported ready 
for sea. Some symptoms of scurvy having again made 
their appearance in the ships, and the surgeons report- 
ing that it would not be prudent to continue longer, 
Captain Parry reluctantly determined to proceed home 
with both ships. After being 319 days in their winter 
quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of August. 

A conspicuous landmark, with dispatches, was set 
up on the main-land, for the information of Franklin^ 
should he reach this auarter. 



126 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

On reaching Winter Island, and visiting their laa 
year's garden, radishes, mnstard and cress, and onion» 
were brought off, which had survived the winter and 
were still alive, seventeen months from the time they 
were planted, a very remarkable proof of their having 
been preserved by the warm covering of snow. 

The ships, during the whole of this passage, were 
driven by the current more than three degrees, entirely 
at the mercy of the ice, being carried into every bight, 
and swept over each point, without the power of help- 
ing themselves. 

On the 1st of September, they were driven up Lyon 
Inlet, where they were confined high up till the 6th, 
when a breeze sprung up, which took them down to 
within three miles of Winter Island ; still it was not 
until the 12th, that they got thoroughly clear of the in- 
draught. The danger and suspense of these twelve 
days were horrible, and Lyon justly observes, that he 
would prefer being frozen up during another eleven 
months' winter, to again passing so anxious a period 
of time. 

" Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, in 
expectation, each tide, of some decided change in our 
affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding 
in such shoal water, that the whole body of the ice must 
have slid over us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin 
expresses himself, ' God, who is greater than either ice 
or tide, always delivered us ! '" 

For thirty-five days the ships had been beset, and in 
that period had driven with the ice above 300 miles, 
without any exertion on their part, and also without a 
possibility of extricating themselves. On the 23d of 
September, they once more got into the swell of the 
Atlantic, and on the 10th of October, arrived at Ler- 
wick, in Shetland. 

Claveeing's Yoyage to Spitzbeegen and Gree^t- 

LAND, 1823. 

In 1823, Capt. Sabine, E. A., who had been for some 
tiine eugaged in magnetic observations, and also ia 



127 

oxperiments to determine the configuration of the earth, 
by means of pendulum vibrations in different latitudes, 
having perfected his observations at different points, 
from the Equator to the Arctic Circle, suggested to the 
Eojal Society, through Sir Humphry Davy, the impor- 
tance of extending similar experiments into higher lat- 
itudes toward the Pole. Accordingly, the government 
placed at his disposal H. M. S. Griper, 120 tons, Com- 
mander Clavering, which was to convey him to Spitz- 
bergen, and thence to the east coast of Greenland. 

The Griper sailed from the ISTore, on the 11th of May, 
and proceeded to Hammerfest, or Whale Island, near 
the ISTorth Cape, in Norway, which she reached on the 
4:th of June, and Capt. Sabine having finished his shore 
observations by the 23d, the vessel set sail for Spitzber- 
gen. She fell in with ice oft' Cherry Island, in lat. 75° 
6', on the 27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents 
and instruments on one of the small islands round 
Hakluyt's Headland, near the eightieth parallel. Capt. 
Clavering, meanwhile, sailed in the Griper due north, 
and reached the latitude of 80° 20', where being stop- 
ped by close packed ice, he was obliged to return. 

On the 24th of July, they again put to sea, directing 
their course for the highest known point of the eastern, 
coast of Greenland. They met with many fields of ice, 
and made the land, which had a most miserable, deso- 
late appearance, at a point which was named Cape Bor- 
lase Warren. Two islands were discovered, and as 
Capt. Sabine here landed and carried on his observa- 
tions, they were called Pendulum Islands. From an 
island situate in lat. 75° 12', to which he gave the name 
of Shannon Island, Clavering saw high land, stretch- 
ing due north as far as lat. 76°. 

On the 16th of August, Clavering landed with a 
party of three ofiicers, and sixteen men on the main- 
land, to examine the shores. The temperature did not 
sink below 23°, and they slept for nearly a fortnight 
they were on shore with only a boat-cloak and blanket 
for a covering, without feeling any inconvenience from 
the cold. A tribe of twelve Esquimaux was met v/ith 



128 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY^ 

here. They reached in their journey a magniiicenl 
inlet, about fifty miles in circumference, which was sup- 
posed to be the same wiiich Gale Hamkes discovered 
in 1654, and which bears his name. The mountains 
round its .sides were 4000 to 5000 feet high. On the 
29th of August, they returned on board, and having 
embarked the tents and instruments, the ship again set 
sail on the 31st, keeping the coast in view to Cape 
Parry, lat. 72 i°. The cliffs were observed to be sev- 
eral thousand feet high. On the 13th of September, 
as the ice in shore began to get very troublesome, the 
ship stood out to sea, and after encountering a very 
heavy gale, which drove them with great fury to tho 
southward, and it not being thought prudent to make 
for Ireland, a station in about the same latitude on the 
I^orway coast was chosen instead by Capt. Sabine. 
They made the land about the latitude of Christian- 
sound. On the 1st of October, the Griper struck hard 
on a sunken rock, but got off undamaged. 

On the 6th, they anchored in Drontheim Fiord, 
where they were received with much kindness and hos- 
pitality, and after the necessary observations had been 
completed the ship proceeded homeward, and reached 
Deptford on the 19th of December, 1^23. 

Lyon's Yoyage in the Griper. 

In 1824, three expeditions were ordered out, to carry 
on simultaneous operations in Arctic discovery. To 
Capt. Lyon was committed the task of examining and 
completing the survey of the Melville Peninsula, the 
adjoining straits, and the shores of Arctic America, if 
possible as far as Franklin's turning point. Capt. Lyon 
was. therefore gazetted to the Griper gun-brig, which 
had taken out Capt. Sabine to Spitzbergen, in the pre- 
vious year. The following officers and crew were also 
appointed to her : — 

Griper, 
Captain — G. F. Lyon. 
Lieutenants — P. Manico and F. Harding. 



129 

A^cSistant-Surveyor — E. E". Kendal. 
Purser — J. Evans. 
Assistant-Surgeon — W. Le json. 
Midshipman — J. Tom. 
34 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. 
Total complement, 41. 

It was not till the 20th of June, that the Griper got 
hway from England, being a full month later than the 
usual period of departure, and the vessel Was at the 
best but an old tub in her sailing propensities. A small 
tender, called the Snap^ was ordered to accompany her 
with stores, as far as the ice, and having been relieved 
of her supplies, she was sent home on reaching Hud- 
son's Straits. 

The Griper made but slow progress in her deeply la- 
den state, her crowded decks being continually swept 
by heavy seas, and it was not until the end of August, 
that she rounded the southern head of Southampton 
Island, and stood up toward Sir Thomas Koe's "VVel 
come. On reaching the entrance of this channel they 
encountered a terrific gale, which for a long time 
threatened the destruction of both ship and crew. 
Drifting with this, they brought up the ship with four 
anchors, in a bay with ^yq fathoms and a half water, 
in the momentary expectation that with the ebb tide 
the ship would take the ground, as the sea broke fear- 
fully on a low sandy beach just astern, and had the an- 
chors parted, nothing could have saved the vessel. 
ISTeither commander nor crew had been in bed for three 
nights, and although little hope was entertained of sur- 
viving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea, 
the officers and crew performed their several duties 
with their accustomed coolness. Each man was or- 
dered to put on his warmest clothing, and to take charge 
of some useful instrument. The scene is best described 
in the words of the gallant commander : — 

"Each, therefore, brought his bag on deck, and 
dressed himself; and in the fine athletic forms which 
stood exposed before me, I did not see one muscle qui- 
9 



130 PROGIiESS OF A.RCTIO DISCOVERT. 

ver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. Prayers were read, 
.and they then all sat down in gronps, sheltered from the 
wash of the sea by whatever they could find, and some 
endeavored to obtain a little sleep. Never, perhaps 
was witnessed a finer scene than on the deck of m^ 
little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Noble as 
the character of the British sailor is always allowed to 
be in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be pos- 
sible that among forty-one persons not one repining 
word should have been uttered. Each was at peace 
with his neighbor and all the world ; and I am firmly 
persuaded that the resignation which was then shown 
to the will of the Almighty, was the means of obtain- 
ing His mercy. God was merciful to us, and the tide, 
almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate 
name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to 
this spot on the charts by Captain Lyon. 

Proceeding onward up the Welcome, they encoun- 
tered, about a fortnight later, another fearful storm; 
On the 12th of September, when off the entrance of 
Wager Inlet, it blew so hard for two days, that on the 
13th the ship was driven from her anchors, and carried 
away by the fury of the gale, with every prospect of 
being momentarily dashed to pieces against any hid- 
den rock ; but the same good Providence which had 
so recently befriended them, again stood their protec- 
tor. On consulting with his ofiicers, it was unani- 
mously resolved, that in the crippled state of the ship, 
without any anchor, and with her compasses worse 
than useless, it would be madness to continue the voy- 
age, and the ship's course was therefore shaped for 
England. 

I may observe, that the old Griper is now laid up as 
a hulk in Chichester Harbor, furnishing a residence 
and depot for the coast guard station. 

Paery's Third Yoyage. 

In the spring of 1824 the Admiralty determined to 
give Capt. Parry another opportunity of caiTying ort 



parry's third voyage. 131 

the great problem which had so long been songht af- 
ter, of a northwest passage to the Pacific, and so gen- 
erally esteemed was this gallant commander that he 
had but to hoist his pennant, when fearless of all dan- 
ger, and in a noble spirit of emulation, his former as- 
sociates rallied aronnd him. 

The same two ships were employed as before, bm 
Parry now selected the Hecla for his pennant. The 
staff of officers and men was as follows ; — 

Hecla, 

Captain — W. E. Parry. 

Lieutenants — J. L. Wynn, Joseph Sherer, and 

Henry Foster. 
Surgeon — Samuel ITeill, M. D. 
Purser — W. H. Hooper. 
Assistant Surgeon — "W. Rowland. 
Midshipmen — J. Brunton, F. R. M. Crozier, C. 

Richards, and H. JST. Head. 
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; and G. 

Champion, mate. 
49 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines. 
Total complement, 62. 

Fury, 

Commander — H. P. Hoppner. 

Lieutenants — H. T. Austin and J. 0. Ross. 

Surgeon — A. M'Laren. 

Purser — J. Halse. 

Assistant Surgeon — T. Bell. 

Midshipmen — B. Westropp, C. C. "Waller, and E. 

Bird. 
Clerk ■ — W. Mogg. 

Greenland Pilots — G. Crawford, master ; T. Don- 
aldson, mate. 
48 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines, 

Total complement, 60. 
The "William Harris, transport, was commissioned 
U) accompany the ships to the ice with provisions. 



132 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCO VEEY. 

Among the promotions made, it will be seen, were 
Lieut. Hoppner to the rank of Commander, and second 
in command of the expedition. Messrs. J. Sherer, 
and J. 0. Ross to be Lieutenants, and J. Halse to be 
Purser. The attempt on this occasion was to be made 
by Lancaster Sound through Barrow's Strait to Prince 
Pegent Inlet. The ships sailed on the 19th of May, 
1821, and a month afterward fell in with the body of 
the ice in lat. 601°. After transhipping the stores to 
the two vessels, and sending home the transport, about 
the middle of July they were close beset with the ice 
in Baffin's Ba}^, and "from this time (says Parry) the 
obstructions from the quantity, magnitude, and close- 
ness of the ice, which were such as to keep our people 
almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or 
sawing through it; and yet with so little success that, 
at the close of July, we had only penetrated seventy 
miles to the westward." After encountering a severe 
gale on the 1st of August, by which masses of overlay- 
ing ice were driven one upon the other, the Hecla was 
laii on her broadside by a strain, which Parry says 
must inevitably have crushed a vessel of ordinary 
strength ; they got clear of the chief obstructions by 
the first week in September. During the whole of 
August they had not one day sufficiently free from 
rain, snow, or sleet, to be able to air the bedding of 
the ship's company. 

They entered Lancaster Sound on the 10th of Sep- 
tember, and with the exception of a solitary berg or 
two found it clear of ice. A few days after, however, 
they fell in with the young ice, which increasing daily 
in thickness, the ships became beset, and by the cur- 
rent which set to the east at the rate of three miles an 
hour, they were soon drifted back to the eastward of 
Admiralty Inlet, and on the 23d they found them- 
selves again off Wollaston Island, at the entrance of 
Navy Board Inlet. By perseverance, however, and the 
aid of a strong easterly breeze, they once more man- 
aged to recover their lost ground, and on the 27tb 
reached the entrance of Port Bowen on the eastern 



J 



pakey's thied voyage. 133 

eliore of Prince Eegent Inlet, and here Parry resolved 
upon wintering; this making the fourth winter this 
enterj^rising commander had passed in these inhospi- 
table seas. 

The -Qsual laborious process of cutting canals had to 
be resorted to, in order to get the ships near to the 
shore in secure and sheltered situations. Parry thus 
describes the dreary monotonous character of an arctic 
winter : — 

"It is hard to conceive any one thing more like 
another than two winters passed in the higlier latitudes 
of the polar regions, excej)t when variety happens to 
be afforded by intercourse with seme other branch of 
the whole family of man. Winter after winter, nature 
here assumes an aspect so much alike, that cursory ob- 
servation can scarcely detect a single feature of variety. 
The winter of more temperate climates, and even in 
some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified 
by a thaw, w^hich at once gives variety and compara- 
tive cheerfulness to the prospect. But here, when once 
the earth is covered, all is dreary monotonous white- 
ness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than 
half a year together. Whichever way the eye is turn- 
ed, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the 
mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless 
torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ; 
of any thing, in short, but life. In the very silence 
there is a deadness with which a human spectator ap- 
pears out of Ikeeping. The presence of man seems an 
intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, 
which even its native animals have for awhile forsaken." 

During this year Parry tells us the thermometer re- 
mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above 
that point till the 11th of April. The sun, which had 
been absent from their view 121 days, again blessed 
the crews with his rays on the 22 d of February. Du- 
ring this long imprisonment, schools, scientific observa- 
tions, walking parties, &c., were resorted to, but " our 
former amusements," says Parry, " being almost worn 
threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any 
6* 



134: PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

plan that should possess the charm of novelty to re- 
commend it." A happy idea was, however, hit upon by 
Commander Hoppner, at whose suggestion a monthly 
bal Qjiasque was held, to the great diversion of both 
officers and men, to the number of 120. The popular 
commander entered gayly into their recreations, and 
thus speaks of these polar masquerades : — 

" It is impossible that any idea could have proved 
more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. 
Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions 
readily took their parts, and many of these were sup- 
ported with a degree of spirit and genuine good humor 
which would not have disgraced a more refined assem- 
bly ; while the latter might not have been disgraced 
by copying the good order, decorum, and inofliensive 
cheerfulness which our humble masquerades presented. 
It does especial credit to the dispositions and good 
sense of our men, that though all the officers entered 
fully into the spirit of these amusements, which took 
place once a month alternately on board of each ship, 
no instance occurred of any thing that could interfere 
with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect 
of the men toward their superiors. Ours were mas 
querades without licentiousness — carnivals without 
excess." 

Exploring parties were sent out in several directions. 
Commander Hoppner and his party went inland, and 
after a fortnight's fatiguing journey over a mountain- 
ous, barren, and desolate country, where precipitous ra- 
vines 500 feet deep obstructed their passage, traveled 
a degree and three-quarters — to the latitude of 73° 19', 
but saw no appearance of sea from thence. 

Lieutenant Sherer, with four men, proceeded to the 
southward, and made a careful survey of the coast as 
far as 72 i^, but had not provisions sufficient to go 
round Cape Kater, the southernmost point observed in 
their former voyage. 

Lieutenant J. C. Eoss, with a similar party, traveled 
to the northward, along the coast of the Inlet, and from 
the hills about Cape York, observed that the sea was 



perfectly open and free from ice at tlie distance of 
twenty-two miles from the ships. 

After an imprisonment of about ten months, by great 
exertions the ships were got clear from the ice, and on 
the 20th of Jnly, 1825, upon the separation of the iioe 
across the harbor, towed out to sea. Parry then made 
for the western shore of the Inlet, being desirous of ex- 
amining the coast of North Somerset for any channel 
that might occur, a probability which later discoveries 
in that quarter have proved to be without foundation. 
On the 28th, when well in with the western shore, the 
Hecla, in spite of every exertion, was beset by floating 
ice, and after breaking two large ice anchors in en- 
deavoring to heave in shore, was obliged to give up the 
effort and drift with the ice until the 30th. On the 
following day, a heavy gale came on, in which the 
Hecla carried away three hawsers, while the Fury was 
driven on shore, but was hove off at high water. Both 
ships were now drifted by the body of the ice down the 
Inlet, and took the ground, the Fury being so nipped 
and strained that she leaked a great deal, and four 
pumps kept constantly at work did not keep her clear 
of water. They were floated off' at high water, but, 
late on the 2nd of August, the huge masses of ice once 
more forced the Fury on shore, and the Hecla narrowly 
escaped. On examining her and getting her off, it 
was found that she must be hove down and repaired ; 
a basin was therefore formed for her reception and 
completed by the 16th, a mile further to the southward, 
within three icebergs grounded, where there were three 
or four fathoms of water. Into this basin she was 
taken on the 18th, and her stores and provisions being 
removed, she was hove down, but a gale of wind com- 
ing on and destroying the masses of ice which shel- 
tered her, it became necessary to re-embark the stores, 
&c., and once more put to sea ; but the unfortunate 
vessel had hardly got out of her harbor before, on the 
21st, she was again driven on shore. After a careful 
survey and examination, it was found necessary to 
abandon her ; Parry's opinion being thus expressed — 



1^6 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

" Every endeavor of ours to get her off, or if got off, to 
float her to any known place of safety, would be at 
once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of ex- 
treme risk to our remaining ship." 

The loss of this ship, and the crowded state of the 
remaining vessel, made it impossible to think of con- 
tinuing the voyage for the purposes of discovery. 

" The incessant labor, the constant state of anxiety, 
and the frequent and imminent danger into which the 
surviving ship was thrown, in the attempts to save her 
comrade, which were continued for twenty-five days, 
destroyed every reasonable expectation hitherto cher- 
ished of the ultimate accomplishment of this object." 

Taking advantage of a northerly wind, on the 27th 
the Hecla stretched across the Inlet for the eastern 
coast, meeting with little obstruction from the ice, and 
anchored in [N'eill's Harbor, a short distance to the 
southward of their winter quarters, Port Bowen, where 
the ship was got ready for crossing the Atlantic. 

The Hecla put to sea on the 31st of August, and en- 
tering Barrow's Strait on the 1st of September, found 
it perfectly clear of ice. In Lancaster Sound, a very 
large number of bergs were seen ; but they found an 
open sea in Bafiin's Bay, till, on the 7th of September, 
when in latitude 75° 30', they came to the margin of 
^he ice, and soon entered a clear channel on its eastern 
side. From thirty to forty large icebergs, not less than 
200 feet in height, were sighted. 

On the 12th of October, Captain Parry landed at 
Peterhead, and the Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 
20th. But one man died during this voyage — John 
Page, a seaman of the Fury — who died of scurvy, in 
I:^eili's Harbor, on the 29th of August. 

This voyage cannot but be considered the most unsuc- 
cessful of the three made by Parry, whether as regards 
the information gleaned on the subject of a northwest 
passage, or the extension of our store of geographical 
or scientific knowledge. The shores of this inlet were 
more naked, barren, and desolate than even Melville 
Island. "With the exception of some hundreds of white 



13T 

whales, seen sporting about the southernmost part of 
the Inlet that was visited, few other species of animals 
were seen. 

" We have scarcely," says Parry, " ever visited a coast 
on which so little of animal life occurs. For days to- 
gether only one or two seals, a single sea-horse, and 
now and then a flock of ducks were seen." 

He still clings to the accomplishment of the great 
object of a northwest passage. At page 184 of his offi- 
cial narrative, he says: — 

" I feel confident that the undertaking, if it be deemed 
advisable at any future time to^pursue it, will one day 
or other be accomplished ; for — setting aside the acci- 
dents to which, from their very nature, such attempts 
must be liable, as well as other unfavorable circum- 
stances which human foresight can never guard against, 
or human power control — I cannot but believe it to 
be an enterprise well within the reasonable limits of 
practicability. It may be tried often and fail, for seve- 
ral favorable and fortunate circumstances must be com- 
•bined for its accomplishment ; but I believe, neverthe- 
less, that it will ultimately be accomplished." 

"lam much mistaken, indeed," he adds, "if the 
northwest passage ever becomes the business of a single 
summer ; nay, I believe that nothing but a concurrence 
of very favorable circumstances is likely ever to make 
a single winter in the ice sufficient for its accomplish- 
ment. But there is no argument against the possibility 
of final success ; for we know that a winter in the ice 
may be passed not only in safety, but in health and 
comfort." 

Not one winter alone, but two and three have been 
passed with health and safety in these seas, under a 
wise and careful commander. 

Fkai^klin's Second Expedition, 1825-26. 

Undaunted by the hardships and sufferings he had 
encountered in his previous travels with a noble spirit 
of ardor and enthusiasm, Captain Franklin determined 



138 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYEITa^. 

to prosecute tlie chain of his former discoveries from 
the Coppermine river to the most western point of the 
Arctic regions. A sea expedition, under the command 
of Captain Beechey was at the same time sent round 
Cape Horn to Behring's Straits, to co-operate with Parry 
and Franklin, so as to furnish provisions to the former, 
and a conveyance home to the latter. 

Captain Franklin's offer was therefore accepted by 
the government, and leaving Liverpool in February, 
1825, he arrived at 'New York about the middle of 
March. The officers under his orders were his old and 
tried companions and fellow sufferers in the former jour- 
ney — Dr. Richardson and Lieutenant Back, with Mr. 
E. JSr. Kendal, a mate in the navy, who had been out in 
the Griper with Capt. Lyon, and Mr. T. Drummond, a 
naturalist. Four boats, specially prepared for the pur- 
poses of the expedition, were sent out by the Hudson's 
Bay Company's ship. 

In July, 1825, the party arrived at Fort Chipewyan. 
It is unnecessary to go over the ground and follow them 
in their northern journey; suffice it to say, they reached 
Great Bear Lake in safety, and erected a winter dwell- 
ing on its western shore, to which the name of Fort 
Franklin was given. To Back and Mr. Dease, an offi- 
cer in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, were in 
trusted the arrangements for their winter quarters. 

From here a small party set out with Franklin down 
the Mackenzie to examine the state of the Polar Sea. 
On the 5th of September they got back to their com- 
panions, and prepared to pass the long winter of seven 
or eight months. 

On the 28th of June, 1826, the season being suffi- 
ciently advanced, and all their preparations completed, 
the whole party got away in four boats to descend the 
Mackenzie to the Polar Sea. Where the river branches 
6ff into several channels, the party separated on the 3d 
of July, Captain Franklin and Lieutenant Back, with 
two boats and fourteen men, having with them the 
faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, who had 
been with them on the former expedition, proceeded to 



139 

the westward, while Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendal 
in the other two boats, having ten men under their 
command, set out in an easterly direction, to search 
the Coppermine River. 

Franldin arrived at the mouth of the Mackenzie on 
the 7th of July, where he encountered a large tribe of 
fierce Esquimaux, wlio pillaged his boats, and it was 
only by great caution, prudence and forbearance, that 
the whole party were not massacred. After getting the 
boats afloat, and clear of these unpleasant visitors, 
Franklin pursued his survey, a most tedious and diffi- 
cult one, for more than a month ; he was only able to' 
reach a point in latitude 70° 24' IST., longitude 149° 37' 
W., to which Back's name was given ; and here pru- 
dence obliged him to return, although, strangely enough, 
a boat from the Blossom was waiting not 160 miles west 
of his position to meet with him. The extent of coast 
surveyed was 374 miles. The return journey to Fort 
Franklin was safely accomplished, and they arrived at 
their house on the 31st of September, when they found 
Richardson and Kendal had returned on the first of 
the month, having accomplished a voyage of about 500 
miles, or 902 by the coast line, between the 4th of July 
and the 8th of August. They had pushed forward be- 
yond the strait named after their boats, the Dolphin and 
tJnion. 

In ascending the Coppermine, they had to abandon 
their boats and. carry their provisions and baggage. 

Having passed another winter at Fort Franklin, as 
soon as tne season broke U23 the Canadians were dis- 
missed, and the party returned to England. 

The cold experienced in the last winter was intense, 
the thermometer standing at one time at 58° below zero, 
but having now plenty of food, a weather-tight dwell- 
ing, and good health, they passed it cheerfully. Dr. 
Richardson gave a course of lectures on practical geol- 
ogy, and Mr. Drummond furnished information on natu- 
ral history. During the winter, in a solitary hut on the 
Rocky mountains, he managed to collect 200 specimens 
of birds, animals, &c., and more than 1500 of plants. 



140 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

When Captain Franklin left England to proceecl on 
this expedition he had to nndergo a severe struggle 
between his feelings of affection and a sense of duty. 
His wife (he has been married twice) was then lying at 
the point of death, and indeed died the day after he 
left England. But wdth heroic fortitude she urged his 
departure at the very day a23pointed, entreating him, 
as he valued her peace and his own glory, not to delay 
a moment on her account. His feelings, therefore, may 
be inferred, but not described, w^hen he had to elevate 
on Garry Island a silk flag, which she had made and 
given him as a parting gift, with the instruction that 
he was only to hoist it on reaching the Polar Sea. 



Beechey's Yoyage.— 1826-28. 

H. M. SLOOP Blossom, 26, Captain F. "W. Beechey, 
sailed from Spithead on the 19th of May, 1825, and 
her instructions directed her, after surveying some of 
the islands in the Pacific, to be in Behring's Straits by 
tlie summer or autumn of 1826, and contingently in that 
of 1827. 

It is foreign to my purpose here to allude to those 
parts of her voyage anterior to her arrival in the Straits. 

On the 28th of June the Blossom came to an anchor 
off tlie town of Petropolowski, wdiere she fell in with 
the Russian ship of war Modesto, under the commano 
of Baron Wrangel, so well known for his enterprise ir- 
the hazardous expedition by sledges over the ice to thf 
nortliward of Cape Shelatskoi, or Errinos. 

Captain Beechey here found dispatches informing 
liim of the return of Parry's expedition. Being besei 
by currents and other difficulties, it w^as not till the 5tb 
of July that the Blossom got clear of the harbor, and 
made the best of her way to Kotzebue Sound, reaching 
tlio appointed rendezvous at Chamiso Island on the 25th. 
After landing and burying a barrel of flour upon Puffin 
Pock, the most unfrerpiented sj^ot about tlie island, tho 
Blossom occupied the time in surveying and examining 



BEECHET S VOYAGE. 141 

the neighboring coasts to the northeast. On the 30th 
she took her departure from the island, erecting posts 
or land-marks, and bnrjing dispatches at Cape Xrnsen- 
stern, near a cajpe which he named after Franklin, near 
Icj Cape. 

The ship returned to the rendezvous on the evening 
of the 28th of August. The barrel of flour had been 
dug up and appropriated, by the natives. 

On the first visit of one of these parties, they con- 
structed a chart of the coast ' upon . the sand, of which, 
however, Captain Beechey at first took very little notice. 
"They, however, renewed their labor, and performed 
tlieir work upon the sandy beach in a very ingenious and 
intelligible manner. The coast line was first marked 
out with a stick, and the distances regulated by the 
day's journey. The hills and ranges of mountains were 
next shown by elevations of sand or stone, and the 
islands represented by heaps of pebbles, their propor- 
tions being duly attended to. As the work proceeded, 
some of the bystanders occasionally suggested altera- 
tions, and Captain Beechey moved one of the Diomede 
Islands, which was misplaced. This was at first ob- 
jected to by the hydrographer, but one of the party 
recollecting that the islands were seen in one from Cape 
Prince of Wales, confirmed its new position and made 
the mistake quite evident to the others, who were much 
surjDrised that Captain Beechey should have any knowl- 
edge of the subject. When the mountains and islands 
were erected, the villages and fishing-stations were 
marked by a number of sticks placed upright, in imita- 
tion of those which are put up on the coast wherever 
these people fix their abode. In time, a complete hy- 
drographical plan was drawn from Cape Derby to Cape 
Xrusenstern. 

This ingenuity and accuracy of description on the 
part of the Esquimaux is worthy of particular remark, 
and has been verified by almost all the Arctic explorers. 

The" barge which had been dispatched to the east- 
ward, under charge of Mr. Elson, reached to latitude 
71° 23' 31" K, and longitude 156° 21' 31'' W., where 



142 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY 

she was stopped by the ice which was i Xached to the 
shore. The farthest tongue of land they reached was 
named Point Barrow, and is about 126 miles northeast 
of Icy Cape, being only about 150 c 160 miles from 
Franklin's discoveries west of the M.^ ckenzie river. 

The wind suddenly;changing to southwest, the com- 
pact body of ice began to drift with the current to the 
northeast at the rate of three and a half miles an hour, 
and Mr. Elson, finding it difiicult to avoid large floating 
masses of ice, was obliged to come to an anchor to pre- 
vent being driven back. " It was not long before he was 
so closely beset in the ice, that no clear water could 
be seen in any direction from the hills, and the ice 
continuing to press against the shore, his vessel was 
driven upon the beach, and there left upon her broad- 
side in a most helpless condition ; and to add to his 
cheerless prospect ohe disposition of the natives, whom 
he found to increase in numbers as he advanced to the 
northward, was of a very doubtful character. At Point 
Barrow, where they were very numerous, their over- 
bearing behavior, and the thefts they openly prac- 
ticed, left no doubt of what would be the fate of his 
little crew, in the event of their falling into their 
power. They were in this dilemma several days, dur- 
ing which every endeavor was made to extricate the 
vessel but without effect, and Mr. Elson contemplated 
sinking her secretly in a lake that was near, to prevent 
her falling into the hands of the Esquimaux, and then 
making his way along the coast in a baidar, which he 
had no doubt he should be able to purchase from tlie 
natives. At length, however, a change of wind loos- 
ened the ice, and after considerable labor and trial, in 
which the personal strength of the officers was united 
to that of the seamen, Mr. Elson, with his shipmates, 
fortunately succeeded in effecting their escape. 

Captain Beechey was very anxious to remain in 
Kotzebue Sound until the end of October, the period 
named in his instructions, but the rapid approach of 
winter, the danger of being locked up, having only 
five weeks' provisions left, and the nearest point at 



beechey's voyage. 143 

whicli lie could replenish being some 2000 miles dis- 
tant, induced his officers to concur with him in the 
necessity of leaving at once. A barrel of flour and 
other articles were buried on the sandy point of Cha- 
miso, for Franklin, which it was hoped would escape 
the prying eyes of the natives. 

After a cruise to California, the Sandwich Islands, 
Loochoo, the Bonin Islands, &c., the Blossom returned 
to Chamiso Island on the 5th of July, 182T. They 
found the flour and dispatches they had left the pre- 
vious year unmolested. Lieut. Belcher was dispatched 
in the barge to explore the coast to the northward, and 
the ship followed her as soon as the wind permitted. 
On the 9th of September, when standing in for the 
northern shore of Kotzebue Sound, the ship drifting 
with the current took the ground on a sand-bank neai 
Hotham Inlet, but the wind moderating, as the tide 
rose she went off the shoal apparently without injury. 

After this narrow escape from shipwreck they beat 
up to Chamiso Island, which they reached on the 10th 
of September. I^ot finding the barge returned as ex- 
pected, the coast was scanned, and a signal of distress 
found flying on the southwest point of Choris Pen- 
insula, and two men waving a white cloth to attract 
notice. On landing, it was found that this party were 
the crew of the barge, which had been wrecked in Kot- 
zebue Sound, and three of -the men were also lost. 

On the 29th a collision took place with the natives, 
which resulted in three of the seamen and four of the 
marines being wounded by arrows, and one of the na- 
tives killed by the return fire. 

After leaving advices for Franklin, as before, the 
Blossom finally left Chamiso on the 6th of October. 
In a haze and strong wind she ran between the land 
and a shoal, and a passage had to be forced through 
breakers at the imminent danger of the ship's striking. 
The Blossom then made the best of her way home, 
reaching England in the first week of October, 1828. 



144 pkogeess of aectio discoyeet. 

Paeey's Foxjeth, oe Polae Yoyage, 1827. 

In 1826, Capt. Parry, who had only returned from 
his last voyage in the close of the preceding year, was 
much struck by the suggestions of Mr. Scoresby, in a 
paper read before the Wernerian Society, in which he 
sketched out a plan for reaching the highest latitudes 
of the Polar Sea, north of Spitzbergen, by means of 
sledge boats drawn over the smooth fields of ice which 
were known to prevail in those regions. Col. Beau- 
foy, F. E. S., had also suggested this idea some years 
previously. Comparing these with a similar plan orig- 
inally proposed by Captain Franklin, and which was 
placed in his hands by Mr. Barrow, the Secretary of 
the Admiralty, Capt. Parry laid his modified views of 
the feasibility of the project, and his willingness to un- 
dertake it, before Lord Melville, the First Lord of the 
Admiralty, who, after consulting with the President 
and Council of the Poyal Society, was pleased to sanc- 
tion the attempt ; accordingly, his old ship, the Hecla, 
was fitted out for the voyage to Spitzbergen, the fol- 
lowing officers, (all of whom had been with Parry be- 
fore,) and crew being appointed to her : — 

Hecla. 

Captain — TV. E. Parry. 

Lieutenants — J. C. Poss, Henry Foster, E. J. Bird, 
F. K. M. Crozier. 

Purser — James Halse. 

Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. 

On the 4th of April, 1827, the outfit and prepara- 
tions being completed, the Hecla left the ISTore for the 
coast of ISTorway, touching at Hammerfest, to embark 
eight reindeer, and some moss {Cenomyce Tangiferilia) 
sufficient for their support, the consumption being 
about 4 lbs. per day, but they can go without food for 
several days. A tremendous gale of wind, experienced 
Oif Hakhiyt's Headland, and the quantity of ice vrith 
wriich tlie Si;i]:> was in consequence bepet, detained the 
voyagers for nearly a nnontli, bat on the ISth of June, 



145 

a southerly wind dispersing the ice, they dropped 
anchor in a cove, on the northern coast of Spitzbergen, 
which appeared to offer a secure haven, and to which 
the name of the ship was given. On the 20th, the 
boats, which had been especially prepared in England 
for this kind of journey, were got out and made ready, 
and they left the ship on the 22d of June. A descrip- 
tion of these boats may not here be out of place. 

They were twenty feet long and seven broad, flat 
floored, like ferry boats, strengthened and made elas- 
tic by sheets of felt between the planking, covered 
with water-proof canvass. A runner attached to each 
side of the keel, adapted them for easy draught on the 
ice after the manner of a sledge. They were also fit- 
ted with wheels, to be used if deemed expedient and 
useful. Two officers and twelve men were attached 
to each boat, and they were named the Enterprise and 
Endeavor. The weight of each boat, including pro- 
visions and every requisite, was about 3780 lbs. L ieuts, 
Crozier and Foster were left on.board, and Capt. Parry 
took with him in his boat Mr. Beverley, Surgeon, while 
Lieut, (now Capt. Sir James) Ross, and Lieut, (now 
Commander) Bird, had charge of the other. 

The reindeer and the wheels were given up as use- 
less, owing to the rough nature of the ice. Provisions 
for seventy-one days were taken — the daily allowance 
per man on the journey being 10 ozs. biscuit, 9 ozs. 
pemmican, 1 oz. sweetened cocoa powder (being 
enough to make a pint,) and one gill of rum ; but 
ecanty provision in such a climate, for men employed 
on severe labor ; three ounces of tobacco were also 
served out to each per week. 

As fuel was too bulky to transport, spirits of wine 
were consumed, which answered all the purposes re- 
quired, a pint twice a day being found sufiicient to 
warm each vessel, when applied to an iron boiler by a 
shallow lamp with seven wicks. After floating the 
boats for about eighty miles, they came to an unpleas- 
ant mixed surface of ice and water, where their toilsome 
journey commenced, the boats having to be laden and 
10 



146 PEOGBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEBY, 

Tinladen several times according as they came to floes 
of ice or lanes of water, and tliej were drifted to the 
southward by the ice at the rate of four or five miles a 
day. Parry found it more advantageous to travel by 
night, the snow being then harder, and the inconven- 
ience of snow blindness being avoided, while the party 
enjoyed greater warmth during the period of rest, and 
had better opportunities of drying their clothes by the 
sun. 

I cannot do better than quote Parry's graphic de- 
scription of this novel course of proceeding : ^'Travel- 
ing by night, and sleeping by day, so completely in- 
verted the natural order of things that it was difficult 
to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers 
and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chro- 
nometers, could not always bear in mind at what part 
of the twenty-hours we had arrived ; and there were 
several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, 
that they never knew night from day during the whole 
excursion. 

"When we rose in the evening, we commenced our 
day by prayers, after w^hich we took off our fur sleep- 
ing-dresses and put on clothes for traveling ; the former 
being made of camlet lined with raccoon skin, and the 
latter of strong blue cloth. We made a point of al- 
ways putting on the same stockings and boots for 
traveling in, whether they had been dried during the 
day or not, and I believe it was only in five or six in- 
stances at the most that they were not either still wet 
or hard frozen. This indeed was of no consequence, 
beyond the discomfort of first putting them on in this 
state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a 
quarter of an hour after commencing our journey; 
while, on the other hand, it was of vital importance 
to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being ' rigged ' 
for tra-veling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and 
biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats, and 
on the sledges, so as to secure them as much as pos- 
sible from wet, we set off on our day's journey, and 
usually traveled four, five, or even six hours, accord- 
ing to circumstances." 



147 

In 'B.YQ days, - notwithstanding their perseverance 

and continued journeys, they found, by observation at 
noon, on tlie 30th, that they had only made eight miles 
of direct northing. 

At. Walden Island, one of the Seven Islands, and 
Little Table Island, reserve supplies of provision^ were 
deposited to fall back upon in case of necessity. 

In halting early in the morning for the purposes of 
rest, the boats were hauled up on the largest piece of 
ice that offered the least chance of breaking through, 
or of coming in contact with other masses, the snow or 
wet was cleaned out and the sails rigged as awnings. 
" Every man then immediately put on dry stockings 
and fur boots, after which we set about the necessary 
repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving 
the provisions for the succeeding day, we went to sup- 
per. Most of the officers and men then smoked their 
pipes, which served to dry the boats and awnings very 
much, and usually raised the temperature of our lodg- 
ings 10° or 15°. This part of the twenty-four hours 
was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment 
to us ; the men told their stories, and fought all their 
battles o'er again, and the labors of the day, unsuccess- 
ful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular 
watch was set during our resting time, to look out for 
bears, or for the ice breaking up round us, as well as 
to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man alter- 
nately taking this duty for one hour. We then con- 
cluded our day with prayers, and having put on our 
fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort 
which perhaps few persons would imagine possible un- 
der such circumstances, our chief inconvenience being, 
that we were somewhat pinched for room, and there- 
fore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agree- 
able.'] 

This close stowage may be imagined when it is re- 
membered that thirteen persons had to sleep in a boat 
seven feet broad. After sleeping about seven hours, 
they were roused from their slimibers by the sound of 
a bugle from the cook and watchman, which announced 



148 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEEY. 

that their cocoa was smoking hot, and invited them to 
breakfast. 

Their progress was of the most tedious and toilsome 
character, heavy showers of rain rendering the ice on 
many occasions a mass of " slush ;" on others there was 
from six to eighteen inches of snow lying on the sur- 
face. Frequently the crew had to proceed on their 
hands and knees to secure a footing, and on one occa- 
sion they made such a snail-like progress that in two 
hours they only accomplished 150 yards. On the 12th 
of July, they had reached the latitude of 82° W 28". 
After five hours' unceasing labor on the 14th, the pro- 
gress was but a mile and a half due north, though 
from three to four miles had been traversed, and ten at 
least walked, having made three journeys a great part 
of the way ; launched and hauled up the boats four 
times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate 
pieces of ice. On the 18th, after eleven hours of ac- 
tual labor, requiring for the most part the exertion of 
the whole strength of the party, they had traveled over 
a space not exceeding four miles, of which only two 
were made good. 

But on halting on the morning of the 20th, having 
by his reckoning accomplished six and a half miles in 
a ]N'. N. W. direction, the distance traversed being ten 
miles and a half. Parry found to his mortification from 
observation at noon, that they were not Jive miles to 
the northward of their place at noon on the 17th, 
although they had certainly traveled twelve miles in 
that direction since then. 

On the 21st, a floe of ice on which they had lodged 
the boats and sledges, broke with their weight, and all 
went through with several of the crew, who, with the 
sledges were providentially saved. 

On the 23d, the farthest northerly point was reached, 
which was about 82° 45'. 

At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the 
meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, " by which," 
says Parry, " we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23'', 
60 that since our last observation (at midnight on the 



paeey's fourth voyage. 14:9 

\ »3d,) we had lost by drift no less than thirteen and a 
half miles, for we were now more than three miles to the 
southward of that observation, though we had certainly 
traveled between ten and eleven, due north in this 
interval ! Again, we were but one mile to the north 
of our place at noon on the 21st, though we had esti- 
mated our distance made good at twenty-three miles." 
After encountering every species of fatigue and dis- 
heartening obstacles, in peril of their lives almost every 
hour. Parry now became convinced that it was hope- 
less to pursue the journey any further, and he could 
n»jt even reach the eighty-third parallel ; for after thir- 
ty-five days of continuous and most fatiguing drudgery, 
With half their resources expended, and the middle of 
the season arrived, he found that the distance gained 
in their laborious traveling was lost by the drift and 
Bei of the ice with the southerly current, during the 
pmod of rest. After planting their ensigns and pen- 
nf'.nts on the 26th, and making it a day of rest, on the 
St^.h, the return to the southward was commenced. 
Nv 'thing particular occurred. Lieutenant Ross man- 
aged to bring down with his gun a fat she bear, which 
ca; ne to have a look at the boats, and after gormandiz- 
ins' on its flesh, an excess which may be excused consid- 
€ri ig it was the first ftesh meat they had tasted for 
ma ly a day, some symptoms of indigestion manifested 
the nselves among the party. • 

( ^n the outward journey very little of animal life 
wat seen. A passing gull, a solitary rotge, two seals, 
and a couple of files, were all that their eager eyes 
cou i detect. But on their return, these became more 
nun Brous. On the 8th of August, seven or eight nar- 
wha 8 were seen, and not less than 200 rotges, a fiock 
of t\ ese little birds occurring in every hole of water. 
On the 11th, in latitude 81° 30', the sea was found 
crow led with shrimps and other sea insects, on which 
numerous birds were feeding. On this day they took 
their last meal on the ice, being fifty miles distant from 
Table Island, having accomplished in fifteen days what 
had taken them thirty-three to effect on their outward 



150 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYEEY. 

journey. On the 12tli, they arrived at this island. The 
bears had walked off with the relay of bread which 
had been deposited there. To an inlet lying off Table 
Island, and the most northern known land npon tlie 
globe, Parry gave the name of Eoss, for " no individ- 
ual," he observes, " could have exerted himself more 
strenuously to rob it of this distinction." 

Putting to sea again, a storm obliged the boats to 
bear up for Walden Island. " Every thing belo^igmg to 
us (says Captain Parry) was now completely drenched 
by the spray and snow ; we had been fifty-six hours 
without rest, and forty-eight at work in the boats, so 
that by the time they were unloaded we had barely 
strength left to haul them up on the rocks. However, 
by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats 
above the surf ; after which a hot supper, a blazing 
fire of drift wood, and a few hours quiet rest, restored 
us." 

They finally reached the ship on the 21st of August, 
after sixty-one days' absence. 

" The distance traversed during this excursion was 
569 geographical miles ; but allowing for the times we 
had to return for our bao^o-ao-e, durins; the greater part 
01 the journey over the ice, we estimated our actual 
traveling at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute miles. 
Considering our constant exj)osure to wet, cold, and 
fatigue, our stockings having generally been drenched 
in snow-water for twelve hours out of every twenty- 
four, I had great reason to be thankful for the excellent 
health in which, upon the whole, we reached the ship. 
There is little doubt that we had all become in a certain 
degree gradually weaker for some time past ; but only 
three men of our party now required medical care — 
two of them with badly swelled legs and general de 
b'lity, and the other from a bruise, but even these three 
returned to their duty in a short time." 

In a letter from Sir W. E. Parry to Sir John Barrow, 
dated ITovember 25, 1815, he thus suggests some im- 
provements on his old plan of proceedings : — 

" It is evident (he says) that the causes of failure in 



151 

our former attempt, in the year 1827, were principally 
two : first, and chiefly, the broken, rugged, and soft , 
state of the ice over which we traveled ; and secondly, 
the drifting of the whole body of ice in a southerly 
direction. 

" My amended plan is, to go out with a single ship 
to Spitzbergen, just as we did in the Hecla, but not so 
early in the season ; the object for that year being 
merely to find secure winter quarters as far north as 
possible. For this purpose it would only be necessary 
to reach Hakluyt's Headland by the end of June, 
which would afford ample leisure for examining the 
more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands, 
where, in all probability, a secure nook might be found 
for the ship, and a starting point for the proposed ex- 
pedition, some forty or fifty miles in advance of the 
point where the Hecla was before laid up« The winter 
might be usefully employed in various preparations for 
the journey, as well as in magnetic, astronomical, and 
meteorological observations, of high interest in that 
latitude. I propose that the expedition should leave 
the ship in the course of the month of April, when the 
ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over 
which, as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult 
to make good thirty miles per day, without any expo- 
sure to wet, and probably without snow blindness. At 
this season, too, the ice would probably be stationary, 
and thus the two great difficulties which we formerly 
had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It might 
form a part of the plan to push out supplies previously, 
to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up on the 
way, so as to commence the journey comparatively 
light ; and as the intention would be to complete the 
enterprise in the course of the month of May, before 
any disruption of the ice, or any material softening of 
the surface had taken place, similar supplies might be 
sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on 
their return." 

The late Sir John Barrow, in his last work, com- 
menting on this, says, " With aU deference to so dis- 



152 PKOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

tinguished a sea officer, in possession of so mncli expe- 
rience as Sir Edward Parry, there are others who 
express dislike of such a plan ; and it is not improba- 
ble that many will be disposed to come to the conclu- 
sion, that so long as the Greenland Seas are hampered 
with ice, so long as floes, and hummocks, and heavy 
masses, continue to be formed, so long as a determined 
southerly current prevails, so long will any attempt to 
carry out the plan in question, in like manner fail. 'No 
laborious drudgery vdll ever be able to conquer the 
opposing progress of the current and the ice. Besides, 
it can hardly be doubted, this gallant officer will admit, 
on further consideration, that this unusual kind of dis- 
gusting and unseamanlike labor, is not precisely such 
as would be relished by the men ; and, it may be said, 
is not exactly fitted for a British man-of-war's-man ; 
moreover, that it required his own all-powerful example 
to make it even tolerable." Sir John therefore sug- 
gested a somewhat different plan. He recommended 
that two small ships should be sent in the early spring 
along the western coast of Spitzbergen, where usually 
no impediment exists, as far up as 80°. They should 
take every opportunity of proceeding directly to the 
north, where, in about 82°, Parry has told us the large 
floes had disappeared, and the &ea was found to be 
loaded only with loose, disconnected, small masses of 
ice, through which ships would find no difficulty in 
sailing, though totally unfit for boats dragging ; and as 
this loose ice was drifting to the southward, he further 
says, that before the middle of August a ship might 
have sailed up to the latitude of 82°, almost v/ithout 
touching a piece of ice. It is not then unreasonable to 
expect that beyond that parallel, even as far as the 
pole itself, the sea would be free of ice, during the six 
summer months of perpetual sun, through each of the 
twenty-four hours ; which, with the aid of the current, 
would, in all probability, destroy and dissipate the 
polar ice. 

The distance from Hakluyt's Headland to the pole 
is 600 geographical miles. Granting the ships to make 



153 

only twenty miles in twenty-four hours, (on the suppo- 
sition of much sailing ice to go through,) even in that 
case it would require but a month to enable the ex- 
plorer to put his foot on the pivot or point of the axis 
on which the globe of the earth turns, remain there a 
month, if necessary, to obtain the sought-for informa- 
tion, and then, with a southerly current, a fortnight, 
probably less, would bring him back to Spitzbergen, ^ 

In a notice in the Quarterly Review of this, one of 
the most singular and perilous journeys of its kind 
ever undertaken, except perhaps that of Baron Wran- 
gell upon a similar enterprise to the northward of Behr- 
ing's Straits, it is observed, — "Let any one conceive 
for a moment the situation of two open boats, laden 
with seventy days' provisions and clothing for twenty- 
eight men, in the midst of a sea covered nearly with 
detached masses and floes of ice, over which these 
boats were to be dragged, sometimes up one side of a 
rugged mass, and down the other, sometimes across the 
lanes of water that separate them, frequently over a 
surface covered with deep snow, or through pools of 
water. Let him bear in mind, that the men had little 
or no chance of any other supply of provisions than 
that which they carried with them, calculated as just 
sufficient to sustain life, and consider what their situa- 
tion would have been in the event, by no means an 
improbable one, of losing any part of their scanty 
stock. Let any one try to imagine to himself a situa- 
tion of this kind, and he will still have but a faint idea 
of the exertions which the men under Captain Parry 
had to make, and the sufferings and privations they 
had to undergo." 

Captain Parry having thus completed his fifth voy- 
age into the arctic regions, in four of which he com- 
manded, and was second in the other, it may here be 
desirable to give a recapitulation of his services. 

Li 1818 he was appointed Lieutenant, commanding 
the Alexander, hired ship, as second officer with his 
uncle. Commander John Ross. In 1819, still as Lieu- 

* Barrow's Voyages of Discoveiy, p. 316. 



154 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

tenant, he was appointed to command the Hecla, and 
to take charge of the second arctic expedition, on which 
service he was employed two years. On the 14:th of 
November, 1820, he was promoted to the rank of 
Commander. 

On the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean 
Gold Medal of the Bath and West of England Society 
for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and 
Commerce, was unanimously voted to him. On the 
30th of December of that year, he was appointed to 
the Fury, with oirders to take command of the expedi- 
tion to the Arctic Sea. "With the sum of 500 guineas, 
subscribed for the purpose, " the Explorer of the Polar 
Sea " was afterward presented with a silver vase, 
highly embellished with devices emblematic of the 
arctic voyages. And on the 24:th of March, 1821, the 
city of Bath presented its freedom to Captain Parry, in 
a box of oak, highly and appropriately ornamented. 
On the 8th of November, 1821, he obtained his post- 
captain's rank. On the 22d of November, 1823, he 
was presented with the freedom of the city of Win- 
chester ; and, on the 1st of December, was appointed 
acting hydrographer to the Admiralty in the place of 
Captain Hind, deceased. In 1824 he was appointed to 
the Hecla, to proceed on another exploring voyage. 

On the 22d of November, 1825, Captain Parry was 
formally appointed hydrographer to the Admiralty, 
which office he continued to hold until the 10th of 
November, 1826. 

In December, 1825, he was voted the freedom of the 
borough of Lynn, in testimony of the high sense enter- 
tained by the corporation of his meritorious and enter 
prising conduct. 

In April, 1827, he once more took the command of 
his old ship, the Hecla, for another voyage of discovery 
toward the North Pole. On his return in the close of 
the year, having paid off the Hecla at Deptford, ha 
resumed, on the 2d of November, his duties as hydro- 
grapher to the Admiralty, which office he held until 
the 13th of May, 1829. Having received the l:vaAor of 



C ATTAIN boss's SECOND VOYAGE. 155 

kniglithoocl, he then resigned in favor of the present 
Admiral Beaufort, and, obtaining permission from the 
Admiralty, proceeded to 'New South "Wales as resident 
Commissioner to the Australian Agricultural Com 
pany, taking charge of their recently acquired large 
territory in the neighborhood of Port. Stephen. He 
returned from Australia in 1834. From the 7th of 
March, 1835, to the 3d of February, 1836, he acted as 
Poor Law Commissioner in J^orfolk. Early in 1837, 
he was appointed to organize the Mail Packet Service, 
then transferred to the Admiralty, and afterward, in 
April, was appointed Controller of steam machinery to 
the ISTavy, which office he continued to hold up to De- 
cember, 1846. From that period to the present time 
he has filled the post of Captain Superintendent of the 
Royal ]Sr avy Hospital at Haslar. 

Captain- John Eoss's Second Yoyage, 1829-33. 

In the year 1829, Capt. Koss, the pioneer of arctic 
exploration in the 19th century, being anxious once 
more to display his zeal and enterprise as well as to 
retrieve his nautical reputation from those unfortunate 
blunders and mistakes which had attached to his first 
voyage, and thus remove the cloud which had for 
nearly ten years hung over his professional character, 
endeavored without effect to induce the government 
to send him out to the Polar Seas in charge of another 
expedition. The Board of Admiralty of that day, in 
the spirit of retrenchment which pervaded their coun- 
cils, were, however, not disposed to recommend any 
further grant for research, even the Board of Longi- 
tude was abolished, and the boon of 20,000^. offered 
by act of parliament for the promotion of arctic dis- 
covery, also withdrawn by a repeal of the act. 

Captain Boss, however, undaunted by the chilling 
indifference thus manifested toward his proposals by 
the Admiralty, still persevered, having devoted 3000^. 
out of his own funds toward the prosecution of the ob- 
ject he had in view. He was fortunate enough to 



156 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYERY. 

meet with a public-spirited and affluent coadjutoi And 
supporter in the late Sir Felix Booth, the eminen / dis- 
tiller, and that gentleman nobly contributed IT^OOOZ. 
toward the expenses. Captain Koss thereupon set to 
work, and purchased a small Liverpool steamer named 
the Yictorj, whose tonnage he increased to 150 tons. 
She was provisioned for three years. Captain Eoss 
chose for his second in command his nephew, Com- 
mander James Ross, who had been with him on his 
first arctic expedition, and had subsequently accompa- 
nied Parry in all his voyages. The other officers of the 
vessel were — Mr. William Thom, purser ; Mr. George 
M'Diarmid, surgeon ; Thomas Blanky,Thos. Abernethy, 
and George Taylor, as 1st, 2d, and 3d, mates ; Alex- 
ander Brunton and Allen Macinnes as 1st and 2d engi- 
neers ; and nineteen petty officers and seamen ; making 
a complement in all of 28 men. 

The Admiralty furnished toward the purposes of the 
expedition a decked boat of sixteen tons, called the 
Krusenstern, and two boats which had been used by 
Franklin, with a stock of books and instruments. 

The vessel being reported ready for sea was visited 
and examined by the late EJing of the French, the 
Lords of the Admiralty, and other parties taking an 
interest in the expedition, and set sail from Woolwich 
on the 23d of May, 1829. For all practical purposes 
the steam machinery, on which the commander had 
greatly relied, was found on trial utterly useless. 

Having received much damage to her spars, in a 
severe gale, the ship put in to the Danish settlement of 
Holsteinberg, on the Greenland coast, to refit, and 
sailed again to the northward on the 26th of June. 
They found a clear sea, and even in the middle of Lan- 
caster Sound and Barrow's Strait perceived no traces 
of ice or snow, except what appeared on the lofty sum- 
mits of some of the mountains. The thermometer stood 
at 40°, and the weather was so mild that the officers 
dined in the cabin without a fire, with the skylight 
partially open. On the 10th of August they passed 
Cape York, and thence crossed over into Eegent Lilr \ 



OAPTAm KOSSS SECOOTJ VOYAGE. 157 

making the western coast between Sepping's and Elwin 
Bay on the 16th. 

They here fell in with those formidable streams, 
packs, and floating bergs of ice which had offered such 
obstructions to Parry's ships. From their proximity to 
the magnetic pole, their compasses became useless as 
they proceeded southward. On the 13th they reached 
the spot where the Fury was abandoned, but no rem-- 
nants of the vessel were to be seen. All her sails, 
stores, and provisions, on land, were, however, found ; 
the hermetically-sealed tin canisters having kept the 
provisions from the attacks of bears ; and the flour, 
bread, wine, spirits, sugar, &c., proved as good, after 
being here four years, as on the first day they were 
packed. This store formed a very seasonable addition, 
which was freely made available, and after increasing 
their stock to two years and ten months' supply, they 
Btill left a large quantity for the wants of any future 
explorers. On the 15th, crossing Cress well Bay, they 
reached Cape Garry, the farthest point which had been 
Been by Parry. They were here much inconvenienced 
and delayed by fogs and floating ice. "While moun- 
tains of ice were tossing around them on every side, 
they were often forced to seek safety by mooring them- 
selves to these formidable masses, and drifting with 
them, sometimes forward, sometimes backward. In this 
manner on one occasion no less than nineteen miles 
were lost in a few hours ; at other times they under- 
went frequent and severe shocks, yet escaped any seri- 
ous damage. 

Captain Ross draws a lively picture of what a ves- 
sel endures in sailing among these moving hills. He 
reminds the reader that ice is stone, as solid as if it 
were granite ; and he bids him " imagine these moun- 
tains hurled through a narrow strait by a rapid tide, 
meeting with the noise of thunder, breaking from each 
other's precipices huge fragments, or rending each 
other asunder, till, losing their former equilibrium, 
they fell over headlong, lifting the sea around in break- 
ers and whirling it in eddies. There is not a moment 



158 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

in which it can be conjectured what will happen in ilit 
next ; there is not one which may n«>t be the last. Th;» 
attention is troubled to fix on any thing amid such con 
fusion ; still must it be alive, that it may seize on the 
single moment of help or escape which may occur. 
Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of all, there 
is nothing to be acted, — no effort to be made, — he 
•must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless, 
waiting, as he best can, for the fate, be it what it may, 
which he cannot influence or avoid." 

Proceeding southward, Eoss found Brentford Bay, 
about thirty miles beyond Cape Garry, to be of consid- 
erable extent, with some fine harbors. Landing here, 
the British colors were unfurled, and the coast, named 
after the promoter of the expedition, was taken posses- 
sion of in the name of the King. Extensive and com- 
modious harbors, named Ports Logan, Elizabeth, and 
Eclipse, were discovered, and a large bay, which wa9 
called Mary Jones Bay. By the end of September, 
the ship had examined 300 miles of undiscovered coast. 
The winter now set in with severity, huge masses of 
ice began to close around them, the thermometer sank 
many degrees below freezing point, and snow fell very 
thick. By sawing through the ice, the vessel was got 
into a secure position to pass the winter, in a station 
which is now named on the maps Felix Harbor. The 
machinery of the steam engine was done away with, 
the vessel housed, and every measure that could add to 
the comfort of the crew adopted. They had abundance 
of fuel, and provisions that might easily be extended 
to three years. 

On the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a 
large tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and 
cleaner than those more to the northward. They dis- 
played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and 
bearings of the country over which they had traveled, 
and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neigh- 
boring coasts, with which they were familiar ; this 
was revised and corrected by a learned lady named 
Teriksin, — the females seeming, from this and former 



159 

instances, to have a clear knowledge of the hydrography 
and geography of the continent, bays, straits, and riv- 
ers which they had once traversed. 

On the 5th of April, Commander Ross, with Mr. 
Blanky, the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set 
out to explore a strait which was reported as lying to 
the westward, and which it was hoped might lead to 
the western sea. After a tedious and arduous journey, 
they arrived, on the third day, at a bay facing to the 
westward and discovered, further inland, an extensive 
lake, called by the natives ]^ie-tyle-le, whence a broad 
river flowed into the bay. Their guides informed them, 
however, there was no prospect of a water comunica- 
tion south of their present position. Capt. Eoss then 
traced the coast fifty or sixty miles further south. 

Several journeys were also made by Commander 
Ross, both inland and along the bays and inlets. On 
the 1st of May, from the top of a high hill, he observed 
a large inlet, which seemed to lead to the western sea. 
In order to satisfy himself on this point, he set out 
again on the ITth of May, with provisions for three 
weeks, eight dogs, and three companions. Having 
crossed the great middle lake of the isthmus, he reached 
his former station, and thence traced an inlet which 
was found to be the mouth of a river named by them 
Garry. From the high hill, they observed a chain of 
lakes leading almost to Thom's Bay, the Victory's sta- 
tion in Felix Harbor. Proceeding northwest along the 
coast, they crossed the frozen surface of the strait which 
has since been named after Sir James Ross, and came 
to a large island which was called Matty ; keeping 
along its northern shore, and passing over a narrow 
strait, which they named after Wellington, they found 
themselves on what was considered to be the main- 
land, but which the more recent discoveries of Simpson 
have shown to be an island, and which now bears the 
name of King William's Land. Still journeying on- 
ward, v/ith difficulties continually increasing, from 
heavy toil and severe privation, the dogs became ex- 
hausted with fatigue, and a burden rather than an aid 
to the travelers. 



160 PKOGRESS OF AEOTIO DISCOVERY. 

One of their greatest embarrassments was, how to 
distinguish between land and sea. " When all is ice, 
and all one dazzling mass of white — when the surface 
of the sea itself is tossed up and fixed into rocks, while 
the land is, on the contrary, very often flat, it is not 
always so easy a problem as it might seem on a super- 
ficial view, to determine a fact which appears in words 
to be extremely simple." Although their provisions 
began to fall short, and the party were nearly worn 
out. Commander Ross was most desirous of making as 
much western discovery as possible ; therefore, depos- 
iting every thing that could be dispensed with, he 
pushed on, on the 28th, with only four days' provisions, 
and reached Cape Felix, the most northern point of 
this island, on the following day. The coast here took 
a southwest direction, and there was an unbounded ex- 
panse of ocean in view. The next morning, after hav- 
ing traveled twenty miles farther, they reached a point, 
which Ross called Point Victory, situated in lat. 64^ 
4:6' 19'', long. 98° 32' 49", while to the most distant one 
in view, estimated to be in long. 99° 17' 68", he gave 
the name of Cape Franklin. However loath to turn 
back, yet prudence compelled them to do so, for as 
they had only ten days' short allowance of food, and 
more than 200 miles to traverse, there could not be a 
moment's hesitation in adopting this step. A high 
cairn of stones was erected before leaving, in which 
was deposited a narrative of their proceedings. 

The party endured much fatigue and suffering on 
their return journey ; of the eight dogs only two sur- 
vived, and the travelers in a most exhausted state ar- 
rived in the neighborhood of the large lakes on the 8th 
of June, where they fortunately fell in with a tribe of 
natives, who received them hospitably, and supplied 
them plentifully with fish, so that after a day's rest 
they resumed their journey, and reached the ship on 
the 13th. Captain Ross in the meanwhile had made a 
partial survey of the Isthmus, and discovered another 
large lake, which he named after Lady Melville. 

After eleven months' imprisonment their little ship 



161 

once more jBLoated hnojant on the waves, having been 
released from her icy barrier on the ITth of September, 
but for the next few days made but little progress, 
being beaten about among the icebergs, and driven 
hither and thither by the currents. 

A chan^<3 in the weather, however, took place, and 
on the 23a they were once more frozen in, the sea in a 
week after exhibiting one clear and unbroken surface. 
All October was passed in cutting through the ice into 
a more secure locality, and another dreary winter hav- 
ing set in, it became necessary to reduce the allowance 
of provisions. This winter was one of unparalleted 
eeverity, tie thermometer falling 92° below freezing 
point. During the ensuing spring a variety of explo- 
ratory journeys were carried on, and in one of these 
Commander Ross succeeded in planting the British 
flag on the J^orth Magnetic Pole. The position which 
had been usually assigned to this interesting spot by 
the learned of Europe, was lat. 70° IST., and long. 98° 
80' W. ; but Eoss, by careful observations, determined 
it to lie in lat. Y0° 5' IV' 'N., and long. 96° 46' 45" W., 
to the southward of Cape E'ikolai, on the western shore 
of Boothia. But it has since been found that the cen- 
ter of magnetic intensity is a movable point revolving 
within the frigid zone. 

" The place of the observatory," Ross remarks, " was 
as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which 
I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of 
the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89° 
59', being thus within one minute of the vertical ; 
while the proximity at least of this pole, if not its ac- 
tual existence where we stood, was further confirmed 
by the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the 
several horizontal needles then in my possession." 

Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant 
only from the site determined by Ross. 

"As soon," continues Ross, "as I had satisfied my 

own mind on the subject, I made known to the party 

this gratifying result of all our joint labors ; and it was 

then that, amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed the 

11 



162 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. 

Britisli flag on the spot, and took possession of the 
ITorth Magnetic Pole and its adjoining territory in the 
name of Great Britain and King William IV. We 
had abundance of materials for bnilding in the frag- 
ments of limestone that covered the beach, and we 
therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, imder 
which we buried a canister containing a record of the 
interesting fact, only regretting that we had not tlie 
means of constructing a pyramid of more importance, 
and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of 
time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pyramid 
as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it 
would have done more than satisfy our ambition under 
the feelings of that exciting day." 

On the 28th of August, 1831, they contrived to warp 
the Victory out into the open sea, and made sail ou 
the following morning, but were soon beset with ice, 
as on the former occasion, being once more completely 
frozen in by the 2Tth of September. 

On the previous occasion their navigation had been 
three miles ; this year it extended to four. This pro- 
tracted detention in the ice made their present posi- 
tion one of great danger and peril. As there seemed 
no prospect of extracting their vessel, the resohition 
was come to of abandoning her, and making the best 
of their way up the inlet to Fury Beach, there to avail 
themselves of the boats, provisions, and stores, which 
would assist them in reaching Davis' Straits, where 
they might expect to fall in with one of the whale 
ships. 

On the 23d of April, 1832, having collected all that 
was useful and necessary, the expedition set out, drag- 
ging their provisions and boats over a vast expanse of 
rugged ice. " The loads being too heavy to be car- 
ried at once, made it necessary to go backward and 
forward twice, and even oftener, the same day. They 
had to encounter dreadful tempests of snow and drift, 
and to make several circuits in order to avoid impas- 
sable barriers. The general result was, that by the 
12th of May they had traveled 329 miles to gain thirty 



163 

in a direct line, having in this labor expended a 
month." After this preliminary movement, they bade 
a farewell to their little vessel, nailing her colors to 
the mast. Capt. Ross describes himself as deeply af- 
fected ; this being the first vessel he had been obliged 
to abandon of thirty-six in which he had served dur- 
ing the conrse of forty-two years. On the 9th of June, 
Commander Ross and two others, with a fortnight's 
provisions, left the main body, who were more heav- 
ily loaded, to ascertain the state of the boats and sup- 
plies at Fury Beach. Returning they met their com- 
rades on the 25th of June, reporting that they had 
found three of the boats washed away, but enough still 
left for their purpose, and all the provisions were in 
good condition. The remainder of the journey was 
accomplished by the whole party in a w^eek', and on 
the 1st of July they reared a canvas mansion, to 
which they gave the name of Somerset House, and 
enjoyed a hearty meal. 

Bj the 1st of August the boats were rendered ser- 
viceable, and a considerable extent of open sea being 
visible, they set out, and after much buffeting among 
the ice in their frail shallops, reached the mouth of 
the inlet by the end of August. After several fruit- 
less attempts to run along Barrow's Strait, the obstruc- 
tions of the ice obliged them to haul the boats on shore, 
and pitch their tents. Barrow's Strait was found, from 
repeated surveys, to be one impenetrable mass of ice. 
After lingering here till the third week in September, 
it was nnanimously agreed that their only resource 
was to fall back on the stores at Fury Beach, and there 
spend their fourth winter. They were only able to get 
half the distance in the boats, which were hauled on 
shore in Batty Bay on the 24:th of September, and 
the rest of their journey continued on foot, the pro- 
visions being dragged on sledges. On the Yth of Oc- 
tober they once more reached their home at the scene 
of the wreck. They now managed to shelter their 
canvas tent by a wall of snow, and setting up an ex- 
tra stove, made themselves tolerably comfortable until 



164 PROGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

the increasing severity of the winter, and rigor of 
the cold, added to the tempestuous weather, made 
them perfect prisoners, and sorely tried their patience. 
Scurvy now began to attack several of the party, and 
on the 16th of February, 1833, Thomas, the carpenter, 
fell a victim to it, and two others died. " Their situ- 
ation was becoming truly awful, since, if they were 
not liberated in the ensuing summer, little prospect 
appeared of their surviving another year. It was 
necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of 
preserved meats; bread was somewhat deficient, and 
the stock of wine and spirits was entirely exhausted. 
However, as they caught a few foxes, which were con- 
sidered a delicacy, and there was plenty of flour, 
sagar, soups, and vegetables, a diet could be easily 
arranged sufficient to support the party." 

While the ice remained lirm, advantage was taken 
of the spring to carry forward a stock of provisions to 
Batty Bay, and this, though only thirty-two miles, oc- 
cupied them a whole month, owing to their reduced 
numbers from sickness and heavy loads, with the jour- 
neyings to and fro, having to go over the ground eight 
times. 

On the 8th of July they finally abandoned this de- 
ot, and encamped on the 12th at their boat station in 

atty Bay, where the aspect of the sea was watched 
with intense anxiety for more than a month. On the 
15th of August, taking advantage of a lane of water 
which led to the northward, the party embarked, and 
on the following morning had got as far as the turn- 
ing point of their last year's expedition. Making their 
way slowly among the masses of ice with which the 
inlet was encumbered, on the ITth they found the wide 
expanse of Barrow's Strait open before them, and nav- 
igable, and reached to within twelve miles of Cape 
York. Pushing on with renewed spirits, alternately 
rowing and sailing, on the night of the 25th they 
rested in a good harbor on the eastern shore of ITavy 
Board Inlet. At four on the following morning they 
were roused from their slumbers by the joyful intelli- 



g 



165 

gence of a ship being in sight, and never did men 
more hurriedly and energetically set out ; but tlie ele- 
ments conspiring against tliem, after being baffled by 
calms and currents, they had the misery to see the 
ship leave them with a fair breeze, and found it im- 
possible to overtake her, or make themselves seen. A 
few hours later, however, their despair was relieved by 
the sight of another vessel which was lying to in a calm. 
By dint of hard rowing they were this time more for 
tunate,.and soon came up with her; she proved to be 
the Isabella, of Hull, the very ship in which Koss.had 
made his first voyage to these seas. Capt. Ross was 
told circumstantially of his own death, &c., two years 
previously, and he had some difficulty in convincing 
them that it was really he and his party who now stood 
before them. So great was the joy with which they 
were received, that the Isabella manned her yards, 
and her former commander and his gallant band of 
adventurers were saluted with three hearty cheers. 
The scene on board can scarcely be described ; each 
of the crew vied with the other in assisting and com- 
forting the party, and it cannot better be told than in 
Ross's own words : — 

" The ludicrous soon took place of all other feelings ; 
in such a crowd, and such confusion, all serious thought 
was impossible, while the new buoyancy of our spirits 
made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene 
which now opened. Every man was hungry, and was 
to be fed ; aE. were ragged, and were to be clothed ; 
there was not one to whom washing was not indispen- 
sable, nor one whom his beard did not deprive of all 
human semblance. All, every thing too, was to be done 
at once : it was washing, shaving, dressing, eating, all 
intermingled ; it was all the materials of each jumbled 
together, while in the midst of all there were intermina- 
ble questions to be asked and answered on both sides ; 
the adventures of the Yictory, our own escapes, the 
politics of England, and the news which was now four 
years old. 

" But aE subsided into peace at last. The sick were 



166 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. 

accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was 
done for us which care and kindness conld perform. 

"Night at length brought quiet and serions thoughts, 
and I trust there was not a man among us who did not 
then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that 
interposition which had raised us all from a despair 
which none could now forget, and had brought us from 
the very borders of a most distant grave, to life and 
friends and civilization. Long accustomed, however, 
to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few 
could sleep amid the comfort of our new accommoda- 
tions. I was myself compelled to leave the bed which 
had been kindly assigned me, and take my abode in a 
chair for the night, nor did it fare much better with the 
rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden and 
violent change, to break through what had become 
habit, and inure us once more to the usages of our 
former days." 

The Isabella remained some time longer to prosecute 
the fishery, and left Davis' Strait on her homeward 
passage on the 30th September. On the 12th of Oc- 
tober they made the Orkney Islands, and arrived at 
Hull on the 18th. The bold explorers, who had loug 
been given up as lost, were looked upon as men risen 
from the grave, and met and escorted by crowds of 
sympathizers. A public entertainment was given to 
them by the townspeople, at which the freedom of the 
town was presented to Captain Koss, and next day he 
left for London, to report to the Admiralty, and was 
honored by a presentation to the king at Windsor. 

The Admiralty liberally rewarded all the parties, 
except indeed Captain Ross. Commander J. C. Ross 
was appointed to the guardship at Portsmouth to com- 
plete his period of service, and then received his post 
rank. Mr. Thom, the purser, Mr. M'Diarmid, the sur- 
geon, and the petty officers, were appointed to good 
situations in the navy. The seamen received the usual 
double pay given to arctic explorers, up to the time 
of leaving their ship, and full pay from that date until 
their arrival in England. 



167 

A committee of the House of Commons took up the 
case of Captain Ross early in the session of 1834, and 
on their recommendation 5,000?. was granted him as a 
remuneration for his pecuniary outlay and privations. 

A baronetcy, on the recommendation of the same 
committee, was also conferred by his Majesty William 
TV. on Mr. Felix Booth. 

In looking back on the results of this voyage, no im- 
partial inquirer can deny to Captain Ross the merit of 
having effected much good by tracing and surveying 
the whole of the long western coast of Regent Inlet, 
proving Boothia to be a peninsula, and setting at rest 
the probability of any navigable outlet being discovered 
from this inlet to the Polar Sea. The lakes, rivers and 
islands which were examined, proved with sufficient 
accuracy the correctness of the information furnished to 
Parry by the Esquimaux. 

To Commander James Ross is due the credit of 
resolving many important scientific questions, such as 
the combination of light with magnetism, fixing the 
exact position of the magnetic pole. He was also the 
only person in the expedition competent to make obser- 
vations in geology, natural history and botany. Out 
of about TOO miles of new land explored. Commander 
Ross, in the expeditions which he planned and con- 
ducted, discovered nearly 600. He had, up to this 
time, passed fourteen summers and eight winters in 
these seas. 

The late Sir John Barrow, in his " ITarrative of Voy- 
ages of Discovery and Research,^' p. 518, in opposition 
fco Ross's opinion, asserted that Boothia was not joined 
to the continent, but that they were " completely divi- 
ded by a navigable strait, ten miles wide and upward, 
leading past Back's Estuary, and into the Gulf (of 
Boothia,) of which the proper name is Akkolee, not 
Boothia ; and moreover, that the two seas flow as freely 
into each other as Lancaster Sound does into the Polar 
Sea." This assumption has since been shown to be 
incorrect. Capt. Ross asserts there is a difference in 
the level of these two seas. 



ioS PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

I may here fitly take a review of Captain Iv»,4s's ser- 
vices. He entered the navy in 1790, served fifteen years 
as a midshipman, seven as a lieutenant, and seven as a 
commander, and was posted on the Tth of December, 
1818, and appointed to the command of the first arctic 
expedition of this century. On his return he received 
many marks of favor from continental sovereigns, wag 
knighted and made a Companion of the Bath on the 
24:th of December, 1834 ; made a Commander of the 
Sword of Sweden, a Knight of the Second Class of St 
Anne of Prussia (in diamonds,) Second Class of the 
Legion of Honor, and of the Red Eagle of Prussia, and 
of Leopold of Belgium. Received the royal premiun 
ft'om the Geographical Society of London, in 1833, fo' 
his discoveries in the arctic res^ions ; also ffold medal 



fe^'^ti ' 



from the Geographical Society of Paris, and the RoyM 
Societies of Sweden, Austria, and Denmark. The fre<>- 
dom of the cities of London, Liverpool, and Bristo) *, 
six gold snufi'-boxes from Russia, Holland, Denmark 
Austria, London and Baden; a sword valued at lOO 
guineas from the Patriotic Fund, for his sufierings, hav 
ing been wounded thirteen times in three different 
actions during the war ; and one of the value of 2001, 
from the King of Sweden, for service in the Baltic and 
the White Sea. On the 8th of March, 1839, he waa 
appointed to the lucrative post of British consul ai 
Stockholm, which he held for six years. 

Captain Back's Land Joueney, 1833-35. 

FouE years having elapsed without any tidings bein^ 
received of Capt Ross and his crew, it began to be 
generally feared in England that they had been added 
to the number of former sufferers, in the prosecution of 
their arduous undertaking. 

Dr. Richardson, who had himself undergone such 
frightful perils in the arctic regions with Franklin, was 
the first to call public attention to the subject, in a letter 
to the Geographical Society, in which he suggested a 
project for relieving them^ if still alive and to be fo>ind ; 



169 

and dt the same time Yolunteered his services to the 
Colonial Secretary of the day, to conduct an exploring 
party. 

Although the expedition of Capt. Ross was not under- 
taken under the auspices of government, it became a 
national concern to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and 
to make some effort for the relief of the party, whose 
home at that time might be the boisterous sea, or whose 
shelter the snow hut or the floating iceberg. Dr. Rich- 
ardson proposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a 
northwest direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was 
to commence his search in an easterly direction. Pass- 
ing to the north, along the eastern side of this gulf, he 
would arrive at Point Turnagain, the eastern point of 
his own former discovery. Having accomplished this, 
he would continue his search toward the eastward until 
he reached Melville Island, thus perfecting geographical 
discovery in that quarter, and a continued coast line 
might be laid down from the Fury and Hecla Strait to 
Beechey Point, leaving only the small space between 
Franklin's discovery and that of the Blossom unexplored. 
The proposal was favorably received ; but owing to the 
political state of the country at the time, the offer was 
not accepted. 

A meeting was held in ISTovember, 1832, at the rooms 
of the Horticultural Society, in Regent street, to obtain 
funds, and arrange for fitting out a private relief expe- 
dition, as the Admiralty and Government were unable 
to do this officially, in consequence of Captain Ross's 
expedition not being a public one. Sir George Cock- 
burn took the chair, and justly observed that those offi- 
cers who devoted their time to the service of science, 
and braved in its pursuit the dangers of unknown and 
ungenial climates, demanded the sympathy and assist- 
ance of all. Great Britain had taken the lead in geo- 
graphical discovery, and there was not one in this coun- 
try who did not feel pride and honor in the fame she 
had attained by the expeditions of Parry and Franklin ; 
but if we wished to create future Parrys and Franklins, 
if we wished to encourage British enterprise and com 



ITO PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

age, we must prove that the officer who is out of sight 
of his countrymen is not forgotten ; that there is con- 
sideration for his sufferings, and appreciation of his 
spirit. This reflection will cheer him in the hour of 
trial, and will permit him, when surrounded by dangers 
and privations, to indulge in hope, the greatest blessing 
of man. Captain George Back, R. N., who was in 
Italy when the subject was first mooted, hastened to 
England, and offered to lead the party, and his services 
were accepted. A subscription was entered into, to 
defray the necessary expenses, and upward of 6000?. 
was raised ; of this sum, at the recommendation of Lord 
Goderich, the then Secretary of State, the Treasury con- 
tributed 2000Z. 

After an interview with the king at Brighton, to which 
he was specially summoned. Captain Back made prepa- 
rations for his journey, and laid down his plan of opera- 
tions. In order to facilitate his views, and give him 
greater authority over his men, special instructions and 
authority were issued by the Colonial Ofiice, and the 
Hudson's Bay Company granted him a commission in 
their service, and placed every assistance at his disposal 
throughout their territory in ]^orth America. 

Every thing being definitely arranged, Capt. Back, 
accompanied by Dr. ilichard King as surgeon and natu- 
ralist, with three men who had been on the expedition 
with Franklin, left Liverpool on the lYth of February, 
1833, in one of the ISTew York packet ships, and arrived 
in America after a stormy passage of thirty-five days. 
He proceeded on to Montreal, where he had great diffi- 
culty in preventing two of the men from leaving him, 
as their hearts began to fail them at the prospect of 
the severe journey with its attendant difficulties, which 
they had to encounter. 

Four volunteers from the Royal Artillery corps here 
joined him, and some voyageurs having been engaged, 
the party left, in two canoes, on the 25th of April. Two 
of his party deserted from him in the Ottawa river. 

On the 28th of June, having obtained his comple- 
ment of men, he may be said to have commenced his 



171 

journey. They suffered dreadfully from myriads of 
sand-flies and xnusquitoes, being so disfigured by their 
attacks that their features could scarcely be recognized. 
Horse-flies, appropriately styled " bull-dogs," were an- 
other dreadful pest, which pertinaciously gorged them- 
selves, like the leech, until they seemed ready to burst. 

" It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against 
these puny bloodsuckers ; though you crush thousands 
of them, tens of thousands arise to avenge the death of 
their companions, and you very soon discover that the 
conflict which you are waging is one in which you are 
sure to be defeated. So great at last are the pains and 
fatigue in buffeting away this attacking force, that in 
despair you throw yourself, half suffocated, in a blanket, 
with your face upon the ground, and snatch a few min- 
utes of sleepless rest." Capt. Back adds that the vig- 
orous and unintermitting assaults of these tormenting 
pests conveyed the moral lesson of man's helplessness, 
since, with all our boasted strength, we are unable to 
repel these feeble atoms of creation. " How," he says, 
" can I possibly give an idea of the torment we endured 
from the sand-flies ? As we divided into the confined 
and suffocating chasms, or waded through the close 
swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air ; 
to see or to speak was equally difficult, for they rushed 
at every undefended part, and fixed their poisonous 
fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as 
if leeches had been applied, and there was a burning 
and irritating pain, followed by immediate inflamma- 
tion, and producing giddiness, which almost drove U3 
mad, and caused us to moan with pain and agony. 

At the Pine portage, Captain Back engaged the 
services of A. R. McLeod, in the employ of the Hud- 
son's Bay Company, and who had been fixed upon by 
Governor Simpson, to aid the expedition. He was 
accompanied by his wife, three children, and a ser- 
vant ; and had just returned from the Mackenzie River, 
with a large cargo of furs. The whole family were at- 
tached to the party, and after some detentions of a 
general and unimportant character they arrived at 
8 



172 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

Fort Chipewjan on the 20tli of July. Fort Eesoia 
tion, on Great Slave Lake, was reached on the 8th of 
August. 

The odd assemblage of goods and vojageurs in their 
encampment are thus graphically described by the 
traveler, as he glanced around him. 

"At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil-cloth, con- 
taining some three blankets, called a bed ; near it a 
piece of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long 
black hairs, which no art, alas, can prevent from insin- 
uating themselves between the teeth, as you laboriously 
masticate the tough, hard flesh; then a tolerably clean 
napkin, spread by way of table-cloth, on a red piece of 
canvas, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuits, and a 
salt-cellar ; near this a tin plate, close by a square kind 
of box or safe of the same material, rich with a pale, 
greasy hair, the produce of the colony at Red River ; 
and the last, the far-renowned ^6mm^ca7^, unquestion- 
ably the best food of the country for expeditions such 
as ours. Behind me were two boxes containing astro- 
nomical instruments, and a sextant lying on the ground, 
while the different corners of the tent were occupied 
by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian shot-pouch, 
bags, basins, and an unhappy-looking japanned pot, 
whose melancholy bumps and holloAVS seemed to re- 
proach me for many a bruise endured upon the rocks 
and portages between Montreal and Lake Winnipeck. 
Nor were my crew less motley than the furniture of 
the tent. It consisted of an Englishman, a man from 
Storna,way, two Canadians, two Metifs or half-breeds, 
and three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have pro- 
duced a worse confusion of unharmonious sounds than 
was the conversation they kept up." 

Having obtained at Fort Resolution all possible in- 
formation, from the Indians and others, relative to the 
course of the northern rivers of which he was in search, 
he divided his crew into two parties, five of whom were 
left as an escort for Mr. McLeod, and four were to ac- 
company himself in search of the Great Fish River, 
since appropriately named after Back himself. 



173 

On the 19th of August they began the ascent of the 
Hoar Frost River, whose course was a series of the 
most fearful cascades and rapids. The woods here 
were so thick as to render them almost impervious 
consisting chiefly of stunted firs, which occasioned in 
finite trouble to the party to force their way through 
added to which, they had to clamber over fallen trees 
through rivulets, and over bogs and swamps, until the 
difficulties appeared so appalling, as almost to dis- 
hearten the party from prosecuting their journey. The 
heart of Captain Back was, however, of too stern a cast 
to be dispirited by difficulties, at which less persever 
mg explorers would have turned away discomfited, 
and cheering on his men, like a bold and gallant leader, 
the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at length 
in an open space, where they rested for awhile to recruit 
their exhausted strength. The place was, indeed, one 
of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag 
to the height of 2000 feet from the base, and the course 
of the river here, in a state of contraction, was marked 
by an uninterrupted line of foam. 

However great the beauty of the scenery may be, 
and however resolute may be the will, severe toil will 
at length relax the spirits, and bring a kind of despon- 
dency upon a heart naturally bold and undaunted. This 
was found particularly the case now with the interpre- 
ter, who became a dead weight upon the party. Rapid 
now succeeded rapid ; scarcely had they surmounted 
one fall than another presented itself, rising like an am- 
phitheater before them to the height of fifty feet. They, 
however, gained at length the ascent of this turbulent 
and imfriendly river, the romantic beauty and wild 
scenery of which were strikingly grand, and after pass- 
ing successively a series of portages, rapids, falls, lakes, 
and rivers, on the 2Tth Back observed from the summit 
of a high hill a very large lake full of deep bays and 
islands, and which has been named Aylmer Lake, after 
the Governor-General of Canada at that time. The 
boat ¥7as sent out with three men to search for the lake, 
or outlet of the river, which they discovered on the sec- 



1 J4: PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

ond day, and Captain Back himself, during their ab- 
sence, also accidentally discovered its source in the 
Sand Hill Lake, not far from his encampment. 'Not 
prouder was Bruce when he stood on the green sod 
which covers the source of the Nile, than was Captain 
Back when he found that he was standing at the source 
of a river, the existence of which was known, but the 
course of which was a problem, no traveler had yet ven- 
tured to solve. Yielding to that pleasurable emotion 
which discoverers, in the first bound of their transport, 
may be pardoned for indulging. Back tells us he threw 
himself down on the bank and drank a hearty draughu 
of the limpid water. 

"For this occasion," he adds, "I had reserved a lit- 
tle grog, and need hardly say with what cheerfulness 
it was shared among the crew, whose welcome tidings 
had verified the notion of Dr. E-ichardson and myself, 
and thus placed beyond doubt the existence of the 
Thlew-ee-choh, or Great Fish Eiver. 

On the 30th of August, they began to move toward 
the river, but on reaching Musk-ox Lake, it was found 
impossible to stand the force of the rapids in their frail 
canoe, and as winter was approaching, their return to 
the rendezvous on Slave Lake was determined on. 

At Clinton Colden Lake, some Indians visited them 
from the Chief Akaitcho, who, it will be remembered, 
was the guide of Sir John Franklin. Two of these In- 
dians remembered Captain Back, one having accom- 
panied him to the Coppermine River, on Franklin's 
first expedition. 

At the Cat or Artillery Lake, they had to aband on 
their canoe, and perform the rest of the journey on foot 
over precipitous rocks, through frightful gorges and ra- 
vines, heaped with masses of granite, and along narrow 
ledges, where a false step would have been fatal. 

At Fort Reliance, the party found Mr. McLeod had, 
during their absence, erected the frame-work of a com- 
fortable residence for them, and all hands set to work 
to complete it. After many obstacles and difiiculties, 
it was finished. 



w: 

Dr. King joined them on the 16tli of September, with 
two laden bateaux. 

On the 5th of ]^ovember, they exchanged their cold 
tents for the new house, which was fifty feet long by 
thirty broad, and contained four rooms, besides a spa- 
cious hall in the center, for the reception and accom- 
modation of the Indians, to which a sort of rude kitchen 
was attached. 

As the winter advanced, bands of starving Indians 
continued to arrive, in the hope of obtaining some re- 
lief, as little or nothing was to be procured by hunting. 
They would stand around while the men were taking 
their meals, watching every mouthful with the most 
longing, imploring look, but yet never uttered a com- 
plaint. 

At other times they would, seated round the fire, oc- 
cupy themselves in roasting and devouring small bits 
of their reindeer garments, which, even when entire, 
afforded them a very insufficient protection against a 
temperature of 102° below freezing point. 

The sufferings of the poor Indians at this period are 
described as frightful. " Famine with her gaunt and 
bony arm," says Back, " pursued them at every turn, 
withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless on 
the cold bosom of the snow." It was impossible to 
afford relief out of their scanty store to all, but even 
small portions of the mouldy peminican intended for 
the dogs, unpalatable as it was, was gladly received, 
and saved many from perishing. " Often," adds Back, 
" did I share my own plate with the children whose 
helpless state and piteous cries were peculiarly distress- 
ing ; com23assion for the full-grown may, or may not, 
be felt, but that heart must be cased in steel which is 
insensible to the cry of a child for food." 

At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appear- 
ance with an opportune supply of a little meat, which 
in some measure enabled Captain Back to relieve the 
sufferers around him, many of whom, to his great de- 
light, went away with Akaitcho. The stock of meat 
was soon exhausted, and they had to open their pern- 



176 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

mican. The officers contented themselves with the 
short supply of half a pound a day, but the laboring 
men could not do with less than a pound and three- 
quarters. The cold now set in with an intensity which 
Captain Back had never before experienced, — the ther- 
mometer, on the 17th of January, being 70° below zero. 
" Such indeed, (he says,) was the abstraction of heat, 
that with eight large logs of dry wood on the fire, I 
could not get the thermometer higher than 12° below 
zero. Ink and paint froze. The sextant cases and 
boxes of seasoned wood, principally fir, all split. The 
skin ofi^he hands became dry, cracked and opened 
into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were 
obliged to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after 
washing my face within three feet of the fire, my hair 
was actually clotted with ice before I had time to dry it." 

The hunters suffered severely from the intensity of 
jhe cold, and compared the sensation of handling their 
guns to that of touching red-hot iron, and so excessive 
was the pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of 
leather round the triggers to keep their fingers from 
coming into contact with the steel. 

The sufferings which the party now endured were 
great, and had it not been for the exemplary conduct 
of Akaitcho in procuring them game, it is to be doubted 
whether any would have survived to tell the misery 
they had endured. The sentiments of this worthy sav 
age were nobly expressed — " The great chief trusts in 
us, and it is better that ten Indians perish, than that 
one white man should perish through our negligence 
and breach of faith." 

On the 14th of February, Mr. McLeod and his family 
removed to a place half way between the fort and the 
Indians, in order to facilitate their own support, and 
assist in procuring food by hunting. His situation, 
however, became soon one of the greatest embarrass- 
ment, he and his family being surrounded by difficul- 
ties, privations, and deaths. Six of the natives near 
him sank under the horrors of starvation, and Akaitchc 
and his hunters were twelve days' march distant. 



177 

Toward the end of April, Capt. Back began to make 
arrangements for constructing boats for prosecuting the 
expedition once more, and wbile so employed, on the 
25th a messenger arrived with the gratifying intelli- 
gence, that Capt. Koss had arrived safely in England, 
confirmation of which, was afforded in extracts from 
the Times and Herald^ and letters from the long lost 
adventm-ers themselves. Their feelings at these glad 
tidings are thus described : — " In the fullness of our 
hearts we assembled together, and humbly offered up 
©ur thanks to that merciful Providence, who in the, 
beautiful language of scripture hath said, ' 3iine own 
will I bring again, as I did sometime from the deeps 
of the sea.' The thought of so wonderful a preserva- 
tion overpowered for a time the common occurrences 
of life. We had just sat down to breakfast ; but our 
uppetite was gone, and the day was passed in a fever- 
ish state of excitement Seldom, indeed, did my friend 
Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful 
occasion economy was forgotton ; a treat was given to 
the men, and for ourselves the social sympathies were 
quickened by a generous bowl of punch." Capt. Back's 
former interpreter, Augustus, hearing that he was in 
the country, set out on loot from Hudson's Bay to join 
him, but getting separated from his two companions, 
the gallant little fellow was either exhausted by suffer- 
ing and privations, or, caught in the midst of an open 
traverse, in one of those terrible snow storms which 
may be said to blow almost through the frame, he had 
sunk to rise no more, his bleached remains being dis- 
covered not far from the Biviere a Jean. " Such," 
says Capt. Back, " was the miserable end of poor Au- 
gustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, 
who had won the regard, not of myself only, but I 
may add, of Sir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also, 
by qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest as in 
the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and 
charm of humanity." 

On the 7th of June, all the preparations being com- 
I ^eted, McLeod having been previously sent on to hunt, 
12 



178 TEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

and deposit casks of meat at various stages, Back set 
out with Mr. King, accompanied by four voyagers and 
an Indian guide. The stores not required were buried, 
and the doors and windows of the house blocked up. 

At Artillery Lake, Back jDicked up the remainder 
of his party, with the carpenters who had been em- 
ployed preparing boats. The lightest and best was 
chosen and placed on runners plated with iron, and in 
this manner she was drawn over the ice by two men and 
six fine dogs. The eastern shore of the lake was fol- 
lowed, as it was found less rocky and precipitous than 
the opp^ite one. The march was prosecuted by night, 
the air being more fresh and pleasant, and the party 
took rest in the day. The glare of the ice, the diffi- 
culty encountered in getting the boat along, the ice be- 
ing so bad that the sj^ikes of the runners cut through 
instead of sliding over it, and the thick snow which 
fell in June, greatly increased the labor of getting along. 
The cold, raw wind pierced through them in spite of 
cloaks and blankets. After being caulked, the boat 
was launched on the 14th of June, the lake being suf- 
ficiently unobstructed to admit of her being towed 
along shore. The weather now became exceedingly 
unpleasant — hail, snow, and rain, pelted them one after 
the other for some time without respite, and then only 
yielded to squalls that overturned the boat. With 
alternate spells and baitings to rest, they however, 
gradually advanced on the traverse, and were really 
making considerable progress when pelting showers of 
sleet and drift so dimmed and confused the sight, dark- 
ening the atmosphere, and limiting their view to only 
a few paces before them, as to render it an extremely 
perplexing task to keep their course. 

On the 23d of June, they fortunately fell in with a 
cache made for them by their avant-coiorier^ Mr. Mc- 
Leod, in which was a seasonable supply of deer and 
musk-ox flesh, the latter, however, so impregnated with 
tlie odor from which it takes its name, that the men de- 
clared they would rather starve three days than swal 
low a mouthful of it. To remove this unfavorable im- 



179 

pression, Capt. Back ordered the daily rations to he 
served from it for his own mess as well as theirs, tak- 
ing occasion at the same time, to impress on their minds 
the injmious consequences of voluntary abstinence, 
and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to 
such food as the country might supply. Soon after an- 
other cache was met wdth, thus making eleven animals 
in all, that had been thus obtained and secured for 
them by the kind care of Mr. McLeod. 

On the 27th, they reached Sandy Hill Bay, where 
they found Mr. McLeod encamped. On the 28th, the 
boat b^ng too frail to be dragged over the portage, 
about a quarter of a mile in length, was carried bodily 
by the crew, and launched safely in the Thlew-ee-choh 
or Fish Kiver. After crossing the portage beyond 
Musk-ox Rapid, about four miles in length, and having 
all his party together. Captain Back took a survey ol 
his provisions for the three months of operations, which 
he found to consist of two boxes of maccaroni, a case 
of cocoa, twenty-seven bags of pemmican of about 80 
lbs. each, and a keg with two gallons of rum. This he 
considered an adequate supply if all turned out sound 
and good. The difficulty, however, of transporting a 
weight of 6000 lbs, over ice and rocks, by a circuitous 
route of full 200 miles,. may be easily conceived, not to 
mention the pain endured in walking on some parts 
where the ice formed innumerable spikes that pierced 
like needles, and in other places where it was so black 
and decayed, that it threatened at every step to engulf 
the adventurous traveler. These and similar difficul 
ties could only be overcome by the most steady perse 
verance, and the most determined resolution. 

Among the group of dark figures huddled together 
in the Indian encampment around them, Capt. Back 
found his old acquaintance, the Indian beauty of whom 
mention is made in Sir John Franklin's narrative un- 
der the name of Green Stockings. Ahhough sur- 
rounded with a family, with one urchin in her cloak 
clinging to her back, and several other maternal ac- 
companiments, Capt. Back immediately recognized 
. 8* 



18C PEOGRESS OF AKCTIO mSCOYEET. 

her, and called her by her name, at which she laughed, 
and said she was an old woman now, and begged that 
she might be relieved by the " medicine man ^' for she 
was very much out of health. However, notwithstand-_ 
ing all this, she was still the beauty of her tribe, and 
with that consciousness which belongs to all belles, sav- 
age or polite, she seemed by no means displeased when 
Back sketched her portrait. 

Mr. McLeod was now sent back, taking with him ten 
persons and fourteen dogs. His instructions were to 
proceed to Fort Resolution for the stores expected to be 
sent there by the Hudson's Bay Company, to build a 
house in some good locality, for a permanent fishing 
station, and to be again on the banks of the Fish Biver 
by the middle of September, to afford Back and his 
party any assistance or relief they might require. 

The^old Indian chief Akaitcho, hearing from the in- 
terpreter that Capt. Back was in his immediate neigh- 
borhood, said, " I have known the chief a long time, 
and I am afraid I shall never see him again ; I will go 
to him." On his arrival he cautioned Back against the 
dangers of a river which he distinctly told him the 
present race of Indians knew nothing of. He also 
warned him against the treachery of the Esquimaux, 
which he said was always masked under the guise of 
friendship, observing they would attack him when he 
least expected it. " I am afraid," continued the good 
old chief, " that I shall never see you again ; but should 
you escape from the great water, take care you are not 
caught by the winter, and thrown into a situation like 
that in which you were on your return from the Cop- 
permine, for you are alone, and the Indians cannot 
assist you." 

The carpenters, with an Iroquois, not being further 
required, were dismissed to join Mr. McLeod, and on 
the 8th of July they proceeded down the river. The 
boat was now launched and laden with her cargo, which, 
together with ten persons, she stowed well enough for 
a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea way. The 
weight was calculated at 3360 lbs., exclusive of the 
awning, poles, sails, &c., and the crew. 



181 

Tiieir progress to the sea was now one continued suc- 
cession of dangerous and formidable falls, rapids, and 
cataracts, which frequently made Back hold his breath, 
expecting to see the boat dashed to shivers against some 
protruding rocks amidst the foam and fury at the foot 
of a rapid. The only wonder is how in their frail leaky 
boat they ever shot one of the rapids. Kapid after 
rapid, and fall after fall, were passed, each accompa- 
nied with more or less danger ; and in one instance the 
boat was only saved by all hands jumping into the 
breakers, and keeping her stern up the stream, until 
she was cleared from a rock that had brought her up. 

They had hardl;^ time to get into their places again, 
when they were carried with considerable velocity 
past a river which joined from the westward. After 
passing no less than five rapids within the distance of 
three miles, they came to one long and appalling one, 
full of rocks and large boulders ; the sides hemmed in 
by a wall of ice, and the current flying with the veloc- 
ity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened of 
her cargo, and Capt. Back placed himself on a high 
rock, with an anxious desire to see her run the rapid. 
He had every hope which confidence in the judgment 
and dexterity of his principal men could inspire, but it 
was impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal 
to the expedition. Away they went with the speed of 
an arrow, and in a moment the foam and rocks hid 
them from view. Back at last heard what sounded in 
his ear like a wild shriek, and he saw Dr. King, who 
was a hundred yards before him, make a sign with his 
gun, and then run forward. Back followed with an 
agitation which may be easily conceived, when to his 
inexpressible joy he found that the shriek was the tri 
umphant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in 
a small bay below. For nearly one hundred miles of 
the distance'they were impeded by these frightful whirl 
pools, and strong and heavy rapids. 

On opening one of their bags of pemmican, the in 
genuity of the Indians at pilfering was discovered, sue 
cessive layers of mixed sand, stones, and green me a 



182 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

having been artfully and cleverly substituted for the 
dry meat. / Fearful that they might be carrying heaps 
of stone instead of provision, Back had to examine 
carefully the remainder, which were all found sound 
and well-tasted. He began to fear, from the inclinatioE 
of the river at one time toward the south, that it Would 
be found to discharge itself in Chesterfield Inlet, in 
Hudson's Bay, but subsequently, to his great joy, it 
took a direct course toward the north, and his hopes of 
reaching the Polar Sea were revived. The river now 
led into several large lakes, some studded with islands, 
which were named successively after Sir H. Pelly, and 
Mr. Garry, of the Hudson's Bay Company ; two others 
were named Lake Macdougall and* Lake Franklin. 

On the 28th of July, they fell in with a tribe of about 
thirty-five very friendly Esquimaux, who aided them 
in transporting their boat over the last long and steep 
portage, to which his men were utterly unequal, and 
Back justly remarks, to their kind assistance he is 
mainly indebted for getting to the sea at all. 

It was late when they got away, and while threading 
their course between some sand-banks with a strong 
current, they first caught sight of a majestic headland 
in the extreme distance to the north, which had a 
coast-like appearance. This important promontory, 
Back subsequently named after our gracious Queen, 
then Princess Victoria. 

" This, then," observes Back, " may be considered as 
the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which after a violent 
and tortuous course of 530 geographical miles, running 
through an iron-ribbed country, without a single tree 
on the whole line of its banks, expanding into five 
large lakes, with clear horizon, most embarrassing to 
the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and lip- 
ids, to the number of eighty-three in the whole, pours 
its water into the Polar Sea, in lat. 67° 11' N., and long. 
94° 30' W., that is to say, about thirty-seven miles 
more south than the Coppermine River, and nineteen 
miles more south than that of Back's River, (of Frank 
lin,) at the lower extremity of Bathurst's Inlet." 



183 

h jr several days Back was able to make but slow 
\ t ogress along the eastern shore, in consequence of the 
solid body of drift-ice. A barren, rocky elevation of 
800 feet high, was named Cape Beaufort, after the 
present hydrographer to the Admiralty. A bluff point 
on the eastern side of the estuary, which he considered 
to be the northern extreme, he named Cape Hay. 
Dean and Simpson, however, in 1839, traced the shore 
much beyond this. The difficulties met with here, be- 

fan to dispirit the men. For a week or ten days they 
ad a continuation of wet, chilly, foggy weather, and 
the only vegetation, fern and moss, was so wet that it 
would not burn ; being thus without fuel, during this 
time they had but one hot meal. Almost without 
water, without any means of warmth, or any kind of 
warm or comforting food, sinking knee-deep, as they 
proceeded on land, in the soft slush and snow, no won- 
der that some of the best men, benumbed in their limbs 
and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect 
before them, broke out for a moment, in low murmur- 
ings, that theirs was a hard and painful duty. 

Captain Back found it utterly impossible to proceed, 
as he had intended, to th^Point Turnagain of Franklin, 
and after vainly essaying a land expedition by three of 
the best walkers, and these having returned, after mak- 
ing but fifteen miles' way, in consequence of the heavy 
rains and the swampy nature of the ground, he came 
to the resolution of returning. Reflecting, he says, on 
the long and dangerous stream they had to ascend 
combining all the bad features of the worst rivers in 
the country, the hazard of the falls and the rapids, and 
the slender hope which remained of their attaining 
even a single mile farther, he felt he had no choice. 
Assembling, therefore, the men around him, and un- 
furling the British flag, which was saluted with three 
cheers, he annoimced to them this determination. The 
latitude of this place was 6S° 13' 5T" E"., and longitude 
94° 58' V W. The extreme point seen to the north- 
ward on the western side of the estuary, in latitude 68° 
46' N"., longitude 96° 20' W., Back named Cape Eich- 



184 PEOGEESS OF AECtlC DISCOVERY. 

ardsoB. The spirits of many of tlie men, whose health 
had snifered greatly for want of warm and nourishing 
food, now brightened, and they set to work with alac- 
rity to prepare for their return jonrney. The boat be- 
ing dragged across, was brought to the place of their 
former station, after which the crew went back four 
miles for their baggage. The whole was safely con- 
veyed over before the evening, when the water-casks 
were broken up to make a fire to warm a kettle of 
cocoa, the second hot meal they had had for nine days. 

On the 15th of Angnst, they managed to make their 
way about twenty miles, on their return to the south- 
ward, through a breach in the ice, till they came to 
open water. The difficulties of the river were doubled 
in the ascent, from having to proceed against the stream. 
All the obstacles of rocks, rapids, sand-banks, and long 
portages had to be faced. In some days as many as 
sixteen or twenty rapids were ascended. They found, 
as they proceeded, that many of the deposits of pro- 
visions, on which they relied, had been discovered and 
destroj^ed by wolves. On the 16th of September, they 
met Mr. McLeod and his party, who had been several 
days at Sand Hill Bay, waiting for them. On the 24:th, 
they reached the Ah-hel-dessy, where they met with 
some Indians. They were ultimately stopped by one 
most formidable perpendicular fall, and as it was found 
impossible to convey the boat further over so rugged 
and mountainous a country, most of the declivities of 
which were coated with thin ice, and the whole hidden 
by snow, it was here abandoned, and the party pro- 
ceeded the rest of the journey on foot, each laden with 
a pack of about 75 lbs. weight. 

Late on the 27th of September, they arrived at their 
old habitation. Fort Eeliance, after being absent nearly 
four months, wearied indeed, but " truly grateful for 
the manifold mercies they had experienced in the 
course of their long and perilous' journey." Arrange- 
ments were now made to pass the winter as comforta- 
bly as their means would permit, and as there was no 
probability that there would le sufficient food in the 



185 

house for the consumption of the whole party, all ex- 
cept six were sent with Mr. McLeocl to the fisheries. 
The Indians brought them provisions from time to time, 
and their friend Akaitcho, with his followers, though 
not very successful in himting, was not wanting in 
his contributions. This old chieftain was, however, 
no longer the same active and important personage he 
had been in the days when he rendered such good 
service to Sir John Franklin. Old age and infirmities 
were creeping on him and rendering him peevish and 
fickle. 

On the 21st of March following, having left direc- 
tions with Dr. King to proceed, at the proper season, 
to the Company's factory at Hudson's Bay, to embark 
for England in their spring ships. Captain Back set 
out on his return through Canada, calling at the Fishe- 
ries to bid farewell to his esteemed friend, Mr. McLeod, 
and arriving at the !N"orway House on the 24th, where 
he settled and arranged the accounts due for stores, 
&c., to the Hudson's Bay Company. He proceeded 
thence to l^ew York, embarked for England, and ar- 
rived at Liverpool on the 8th of September, after an 
absence of two years and a half Back was honored 
with an audience of his Majesty, who expressed his ap- 
probation of his efforts — first in the cause of human- 
ity, and next in that of geographical and scientific re- 
search. He has since been knighted ; and in 1835, the 
:!Royal Geographical Society awarded him their gold 
medal, (the Eoyal premium,) for his discovery of the 
Great Fish River, and navigating it to the sea on the 
arctic coast. 

Dr. King, with the remainder of the party, (eight 
men,) reached England, in the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany's ship, in the following month, October. 

Of Captain Back's travels it has been justly observed 
that it is impossible to rise from the perusal of them 
without being struck with astonishment at the extent of 
sufferings which the human frame can endure, and at the 
same time the wondrous display of fortitude which was 
exhibited under circumstances of so appalling a nature, 



186 PROGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. 

as to invest the narrative with the character of a roman- 
tic fiction, rather than an nnexaggerated tale of actual 
reality. He, however, suffered not despair nor despon- 
dency to overcome him, but gallantly and undauntedly 
pursued his course, until he returned to his native land 
to add to the number of those noble spirits whose names 
will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments 
to the country which gave them birth. 

Captain Back's Yoyage of the Tekeok. 

In the year 1836, Captain Back, who had only re- 
turned the previous autumn, at the recommendation of 
the Geographical Society, undertook a voyage in the 
Terror ujd Hudson's Strait. 

He was to reach Wager Kiver, or Eepulse Bay, and 
to make an overland journey, to examine the bottom 
of Prince Regent's Inlet, sending other parties to the 
north and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and 
Hecla, and to reach, if possible, Franklin's Point Turn- 
again. 

Leaving England on the 14:th of June, he arrived on 
the 14th of August at Salisbury Island, and proceeded 
up the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got 
frozen in, and on the breaking up of the ice by one of 
those frequent convulsions, the vessel was drifted right 
up the Frozen Channel, grinding large heaps that op- 
posed her progress to powder. 

From December to March she was driven about by 
the fury of the storms and ice, all attempts to release 
her being utterly powerless. She thus floated till the 
10th of July, and for three days was on her beam-ends ; 
but on the 14th she suddenly righted. The crazy vessel 
with her gaping wounds was scarcely able to transj^ort 
the crew across the stormy waters of the Atlantic, but 
the return voyage which was rendered absolutely neces- 
sary, was fortunately accomplished safely. 

I shall now give a concise summary of Captain Sir 
George Back's arctic services, so as to present it more 
readily to the reader; 



1S7 

In 1818 he was Admiralty Mate on board the Trent, 
4uder Franklin. In 1819 he again accompanied him 
on his first overland journey, and was with him in all 
those perilous sufferings which are elsewhere narrated. 
He was also as a Lieutenant with Franklin on his sec- 
Dud journey in 1825. Having been in the interval ]3ro- 
moted to the rank of Commander, he proceeded, in 1833, 
accompanied by Dr. King and a party, through I^orth- 
ern America to the Polar Sea, in search of Captain 
John Eoss. He was j)osted on the 30th of September, 
1835, and appointed in the following year to the com- 
mand of the Terror, for a voyage of discovery in Hud- 
son's Bay.* * 

Messes. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries. 

In 1836 the Hudson's Eay Company resolved U23on 
undertaking the completion of the survey of the north 
ern coast of their territories, forming the shores of 
Arctic America, and small portions of which were left 
undetermined between the discoveries of Captains Back 
and Franklin. 

They commissioned to this task two of their officers, 
Mr. Thomas Simpson and Mr. Peter Warren Dease, who 
were sent out with a party of twelve men from the com 
pany's chief fort, with proper aid and ap23liances. De- 
scending the Mackenzie to the sea, they reached and 
surveyed in July, 1837, the remainder of the western 
part of the coast left unexamined by Franklin in 1825, 
from his Return Reef to Cape Barrow, where the Bios 
som's boats turned back. 

Proceeding on from Return Reef two new rivers 
were discovered, — the Garry and the Colville ; the 
latter more than a thousand miles in length. Although 
it was the height of summer, the ground was found 
frozen several inches below the surface, the spray froze 
on the oars and rigging of their boats, and the ice lay 
smooth and solid in the bays, as in the depth of winter. 

On the 4th of August, having left the boats and pro-^ 
needed on by land, Mr. Simpson arrived at Elson Bay, 



188 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. 

whicli point Lieutenant Elson had readied in the Blos- 
som's barge in 1826. 

The party now returned to winter at Fort Confidence, 
on Great Bear Lake, whence they were instructed to 
pi-osecute their search to the eastward next season, and 
to communicate if possible with Sir George Back's 
expedition. 

They left their winter quarters on the 6th of June, 
1838, and descended Dease's River. They found the 
Coppermine River much swollen by floods, and encum- 
bered with masses of floating ice. The rapids they had 
to pass were very perilous, as may be inferred from the 
following graphic description : — 

" We had to pull for our lives to keep out of the suc- 
tion of the precipices, along whose base the breakers 
raged and foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly 
before noon, we came in sight of Escape Rapid of 
Franklin ; and a glance at the overhanging cliff told us 
that there was no alternative but to run down with a 
full cargo. In an instant," continues Mr. Simpson, " we 
were in the vortex ; and before we were aware, my boat 
was borne toward an isolated rock, which the boiling 
surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was 
no longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to 
run between it and the lofty eastern cliff. The word 
was passed, and every breath was hushed. A stream 
which dashed down upon us over the brow of the preci 
pice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with 
the spray that whirled upward from the rapid, forming 
a terrific shower-bath. The pass was about eight feet 
wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would 
have been instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's 
consummate ' skill, the boat shot safely through those 
jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next 
impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com- 
rades behind. They had profited by the peril we in- 
curred, and kept without the treacherous rock in time." 

On the 1st of July they reached the sea, and en- 
camped at the mouth of the river, where they waited 
for the opening of the ice till the 17th. They doubled 



189 

Cape Barrow, one of the northern points of Bathurst's 
Inlet, on the 29th, but were prevented crossing the inlet 
by the continuity of the ice, and obliged to make a 
circuit of nearly 150 miles by Arctic Sound. 

Some very pure specimens of copper ore were found 
on one of the Barry Islands. After doubling Cape 
Flinders on the 9th of August, the boats were arrested 
by the ice in a little bay to which the name of Boat 
Haven was given, situate about three miles from Frank- 
lin's farthest. Here the boats lingered for the best 
part of a month, in utter hopelessness. Mr. Simpson 
pushed on therefore on the 20th, with an exploring party 
of seven men, provisioned for ten days. On the first 
day they passed Point Turnagain, the limit of Frank- 
lin's survey in 1821. On the 23d they had reached an 
elevated cape, with land apparently closing all round 
to the northward, so that it was feared they had only 
been traversing the coast of a huge bay. But the 
perseverance of the adventurous explorer was fully re- 
warded. 

"With bitter disappointment," writes Mr. Simpson, 
" I ascended the height, from whence a vast and splen- 
did prospect burst suddenly upon me. The sea, as if 
transformed by enchantment, rolled its fierce waves at 
my feet, and beyond the reach of vision to the eastward, 
Islands of various shape and size overspread its surface ; 
and the northern land terminated to the eye in a bold 
and lofty cape, bearing east northeast, thirty or forty- 
miles distant, while the continental coast trended away 
southeast. I stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland, 
at the eastern outlet of an ice-obstructed strait. On the 
extensive land to the northward I bestowed the name 
of our most gracious sovereign Queen Victoria. Its 
eastern visible extremity I called Cape Pelly, in com- 
pliment to the governor of Hudson's Bay Company." 

Having reached the limits which prudence, dictated 
in the face of the long journey back to the boats, many 
of his men too being lame, Mr. Simpson retraced his 
Bteps, and the party reached Boat-haven on the 20th of 
August, having traced nearly 140 miles of new coast. 



190 PKOGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY. 

The boats were cut out of their icy prison, and com 
mencecl their re-ascent of the Coppermine on the 3d oi 
September. At its junction with the Kendal River they 
left their boats, and shouldering their packs, traversed 
the barren grounds, and arrived at their residence on 
the lake by the 14th of September. 

The following season these persevering explorers com- 
menced their third voyage. They reached the Bloody 
Fall on the 22d of June, 1839, and occupied themselves 
for a week in carefully examining Richardson's River, 
which was discovered in the previous year, and dis- 
charges itself in the head of Back's Inlet. On the 3d 
of July they reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky 
heights were surprised to observe Coronation Gulf 
alniost clear of ice, while on their former visit it could 
have been crossed on foot. 

They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier tlian 
Mr. Simpson reached it on foot the previous year, and 
doubled Cape Alexander, the northernmost cape in this 
quarter, on the 28th of July, after encountering a vio- 
lent gale. They coasted the huge bay extending for 
about nine degrees eastward from this point, being fa- 
vored with clear weather, and protected by the various 
islands they met from the crushing state of the ire 
drifted from seaward. 

On the 10th of August they opened a strait about 
ten miles wide at each extremity, but narrowing to foiw 
or five miles in the center. This strait, which divides 
the main-land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's 
Strait. 

On the 13th of August they had passed Richardson's 
Point and doubled Point Ogle, the furthest jDoint of 
Back's journey in 1834. 

By the 16th they had reached Montreal Island in 
Back's Estuary, where they found a deposit of pro- 
visions which Ca^Dtain Back had left there that day five 
years. The pemmican was unfit for use, but out of 
several pounds of chocolate half decayed the men con- 
trived to pick sufiicient to make a kettleful accej)table 
drink in honor of the occasion. There were also a tin 



DBASE AND SIMPSOn's DISCOVEEIES. 191 

case &nd a few fish-hooks, of which, observes Mr. 
Simpson, " Mr. Dease and I took possession, as memo- 
rials of our having breakfasted on the very spot where 
the tent of onr gallant, though less successful precursor 
stood that very day five years before. 

By the 20th of August they had reached as far as 
Aberdeen Island to the eastward, from which they had 
a view of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with 
that which had been so correctly described to Parry by 
the intelligent Esquimaux female as Akkolee. 

From a mountainous ridge about three miles inland 
a view of la'nd in the northeast was obtained supposed 
to be one of the southern promontories of Boothia. 
High and distant islands stretching from E. to E. N. E. 
(probably some in Committee Bay) were seen, and two 
considerable ones were noted far out in the ofiing. 
Kemembering the length and difliculty of their return 
route, the explorers now retraced their ste]3S. On their 
return voyage they traced sixty miles of the south coast 
of Bootliia, where at one time they were not more than 
jiinety miles from the site of the magnetic pole, as de- 
termined by Captain Sir James C. itoss. On the 25th 
of August they erected a high cairn at their farthest 
point, near Cape Herschel. 

About 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria 
Land, as far as Cape Parry, were also examined; 
Wellington, Cambridge, and Byron Bays being sur- 
veyed and accurately laid down. The}^ then stretched 
across Coronation Gulf, and re-entered the Copper- 
mine River on the 16th of September. 

Abandoning here one of their boats, with the re- 
mains of their useless stores and other articles not 
required, they ascended the river and reached Fort 
Confidence on the 24:th of September, after one of the 
longest and most successful boat voyages ever per- 
formed on the Polar Sea, having traversed more than 
1600 miles of sea. 

In 1838, before the intelligence of this last trip 
had been received, Mr. Simpson was presented by 
the Poyal Geographical Society of London with the 



192 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

Founder's Gold Medal, for discovering and tracing in 
1837 and 1838 about 300 miles of the arctic shores ; 
"but the voyage which I have just recorded has added 
greatly to the laurels which he and his bold compan- 
ions have achieved. 

Dr. John Eae's Land Expedition, 1846-4:7. 

Although a little out of its chronological order, I 
give Dr. Eae's exploring trip before I proceed to no- 
tice Franklin's last voyage, and the different relief 
expeditions that have been sent out during the past 
two years. 

In 1846 the Hudson's Company dispatched an ex- 
pedition of thirteen persons, under the command of 
Dr. John Rae, for the purpose of surveying the unex- 
plored portion of the arctic coast at the northeastei'n 
angle of the American continent between Dease and 
Simpson's farthest, and the Strait of the Fury and 
Hecla. 

The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's 
Bay, on the 5th of July, 1846, and returned in safety 
to York Factory on the 6th September in the follow- 
ing year, after having, by traveling over ice and snow 
in the spring, traced the coast all the way from the 
Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross to within eight 
or ten miles of the Fury and Hecla Strait, thus prov- 
ing that eminent navigator to have been correct in 
stating Boothia to be a peninsula. 

On the 15th of July the boats first fell in with the 
ice, about ten miles north of Cape Fullerton, and it 
was so heavy and closely packed that they were 
obliged to take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet 
that opportunely presented itself, where they were 
closed up two days. 

On the 22d the party reached the most southerly 
opening of "VYager Eiver or Bay, but were detained 
the whole day by the immense quantities of heavy ice 
driving in and out with the flood and ebb of the tide, 
which ran at the rate of eight miles an hour, forcing up 



DE. JOHK EAe's LAm) EXPEDITION. 193 

the ice and grinding it against the rocks with a noise 
like thunder. On the night of the 24th the boats 
anchored at the head of the Repulse Bay. The follow- 
ing day they anchored in Gibson's Cove, on the banks 
of which they met with a small party of Esquimaux ; 
several of the women wore beads round their wrists. 
which they had obtained from Captain Parry's ship 
when at Igloolik and Winter Island. But they had 
neither heard nor seen anything of Sir John Franklin. 

Learning from a chart drawn by one of the natives, 
that the isthmus of Melville peninsula was only about 
forty miles across, and that of this, owing to a number 
of large lakes, but five miles of land would have to be 
passed over. Dr. Rae determined to make his way 
over this neck in preference to proceeding by Fox's 
Channel through the Fury and Hecla Strait. 

One boat was therefore laid up with her cargo in 
security, and with the other the party set out, assisted 
by three Esquimaux. After traversing several large 
lakes, and crossing over six '' portages," on the 2d of 
August they got into the salt water, in Committee 
Bay, but being able to make but little progress to the 
northwest,' in consequence of heavy gales and closely 
packed ice, he returned to his starting point, and made 
preparations for wintering, it being found impossible 
to proceed with the survey at that time. The other 
boat was brought across the isthmus, and all hands 
were set to work in making preparations for a long 
and cold winter. 

As no wood was to be had, stones were collected to 
build a house, w^hich was finished by the 2d of Sep- 
tember. Its dimensions were twenty feet by fourteen, 
and about eight feet high. The roof was formed of 
oil-cloths and morse-skin coverings, the masts and 
oars of the boats serving as rafters, while the door 
was made of parchment skins stretched over a wooden 
frame. 

The deer had already commenced migrating south- 
ward, but whenever he had leisure. Dr. Eae shoul- 
dered his rifle, and had frequently good success, shoot- 
1 



194 PKOGKESS OF AliCTIC DISOOVEKY. 

ing on one day seven deer within two miles of their 
encampment. 

On the 16th of October, the thermometer fell to 
zero, and the greater part of the reindeer had passed ; 
but the party had by this time shot 130, and dm-ing 
the remainder of October, and in ISTovember, thirty- 
two more were killed, so that with 200 partridges and 
a few salmon, their snow-built larder was pretty well 
stocked. 

Sufficient fuel had been collected to last, with econ- 
omy, for cooking, until the spring ; and a couple of 
seals which had been shot produced oil enough for 
their lamjDS. By nets set in the lakes under the ice, a 
few salmon were also caught. 

After passing a very stormy winter, with the tem- 
perature occasionally 47° below freezing point, and 
often an allowance of but one meal a day, toward the 
end of February preparations for resuming their sur- 
veys in the spring were made. Sleds, similar to those 
used by the natives, were constructed. In the begin- 
ning of March the reindeer began to migrate north- 
ward, but were very shy. One was shot on the 11th. 
Dr. Rae set out on the 5th of April, in. company 
w^ith three men and two Esquimaux as interpreters, 
their provisions and bedding being drawn on sleds by 
four dogs. ITothing worthy of notice occurs in this 
explorp.tory trip, till on the 18th Kae came in sight of 
Lord Mayor's Bay, and the group of islands with w^hich 
it is studded. The isthmus whicli connects the land 
to the northward with Boothia, he found to be only about 
a mile broad. On their return the party fortunately fell 
in with fcyir Esquimaux, from whom they obtained a 
quantity of seal's blubber for fuel and dog's food, and 
some of the flesh and blood for their own use, enoug?i 
to maintain them for six days on half allowance. 

All the purty were more or less affected with snow 
blindness, but arrived at their winter quarters in He- 
pulse Bay on the 5th of May, all safe and wel], but as 
black as negroes, from the combined effects of frost- 
bites and oil smoke. 



DK. JOHN EAe's land EXPEDITION. 195 

On the evening of the 13th May, Dr. Rae again 
started with a chosen party of four men, to trace the 
west shore of Melville peninsula. Each of the men 
carried about TO lbs. weight. 

Being unable to obtain a drop of water of nature's 
thawing, and fuel being rather a scarce article, they 
were obliged to take small kettles of snow under the 
blankets with them, to thaw by the heat of the body. 

Having reached to about 69° 42' N. lat., and 85° 8' 
long., and their provisions being nearly exhausted, 
they were obliged, much to their disappointment, to 
turn back, when only within a few miles of the Hecla 
and Fury Strait. Early on the morning of the 30th 
of May, the party arrived at their snow hut on Cape 
Thomas Simpson. The men they had left there were 
well, but very thin, as they had neither caught nor 
shot any thing eatable, except two marmots, and they 
were preparing to cook a piece of parchment skin for 
their supper. 

" Our journey," says Dr. Kae, " hitherto had been 
the most fatiguing I had ever experienced ; the severe 
exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had reduced 
the whole party very much. However, we marched 
merrily on, tightening our belts — mine came in six 
inches — the men vowing that when they got on full 
allowance, they would make up for lost time." 

On the morning of the 9th of June, they arrived at 
their encampment in Eepulse Bay, after being absent 
twenty-seven days. The whole party then set actively 
to work procuring food, collecting fuel, and preparing 
the boats for sea ; and the ice in the bay having broken 
up on the 11th of August, on the 12th they left their 
winter quarters, and after encountering head winds 
and stormy weather, reached Churchill Eiver on the 
31st of August. 

A gratuity of 4:001. was awarded to Mr. Eae, by the 
Hudson's Bay Company, for the T.tiportant services he 
had thus rendered to the cause i' science. 



196 peogeess of aectio discoveet. 

Captain Sie John Feanklin's Last Expedition* 
1845-51. 

That Sir John Franklin, now nearly six years aV 
sent, is alive, we dare not affirm ; but that his ships 
should be so utterly annihilated that no trace of them 
can be discovered, or if they have been so entirely 
lost, that not a single life should have been saved to 
relate the disaster, and that no traces of the crew or 
vessels should have been met with by the Esquimaux, 
or the exploring parties who have visited and investi- 
gated those coasts, and bays, and inlets to so consid- 
erable an extent, is a most Extraordinary circumstance. 
It is the general belief of those officers who have 
served in the former arctic expeditions, that whatevei 
accident may have befallen the Erebus and Terror, 
they cannot wholly have disappeared from those seas, 
and that some traces of their fate, if not some living 
remnant of their crews, must eventually reward the 
search of the diligent investigator. It is possible that 
they may be found in quarters the least expected. 
There is still reason, then, for liojpe^ and for the great 
and honorable exertions which that divine spark in 
the soul has prompted and still keeps alive. 

"There is something," says the Athenaeum, "in- 
tensely interesting in the picture of those dreary seas 
amid whose strange and unsj)eakable solitudes our lost 
countrymen are, or have been, somewhere imprisoned 
for so many years, swarming with the human life that 
is risked to set them free. JSTo haunt was ever so ex- 
citing — so full of a wild grandeur and a profound 
pathos — as that which had just aroused the arctic 
echoes ; that wherein their brothers and companions 
have been beating for the track by which they may 
rescue the lost mariners from the icy grasp of the Ge- 
nius of the J^orth. Fancy these men in their adaman 
tine prison, wherever it may be, — chained up by the 
polar spirit whom they had dared, — lingering through 
years of cold and darkness on the stinted ration that 
scarcely feeds the blood, and the feeble hope that 



197 

scarcely sustains the heart, — and then imagine the rush 
of emotions to greet the first cry from that wild hunting 
ground which should reach th'jir ears ! Through many 
summers has that cry been listened for, no doubt. 
Something like an expectation of the rescue which it 
should announce has revived with each returning sea- 
son of comparative light, to die of its own baffled in- 
tensity as the long dark months once more settled down 
upon their dreary prison-house. — There is scarcely a 
doubt that the track being now struck, these long- 
pining hearts may be traced to their lair. But what to 
the anxious questioning which has year by year gone 
forth in search of their fate, will be the answer now 
revealed ? The trail is found, — but what of the weary 
feet that made it? "We are not willing needlessly to 
alarm the public sympathies, which have been so gene- 
rously stirred on behalf of the missing men, — but we 
are bound to warn our readers against too sanguine an 
entertainment of the hope which the first tidings of the 
recent discovery is calculated to suggest. It is scarcely 
possible that the provisions which are sufficient for three 
years, and adaptable for four, can by any economy 
which implies less than starvation have been spread 
over five, — and scarcely probable that they can have 
been made to do so by the help of any accidents which 
the place of confinement supplied. We cannot hear of 
this sudden discovery of traces of the vanished crews as 
living men, without a wish which comes like a pang 
that it had been two years ago — or even last year. It 
makes the heart sore to think how close re- lef may have 
been to their hiding-place in former years — when it 
turned away. There is scarcely reason to doubt that 
had the present circumstances of the search occurred 
two years ago — last year j)erhaps — the wanderers 
would have been restored. Another year makes a 
frightful difference in the odds : — and we do not think 
the public will ever feel satisfied with what has been 
done in this matter if the oracle so long questioned, and 
silent so long, shall speak at last — and the answer shall 
be, ' It is too late.' " 



198 PROGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

In the prosecution of the noble enterprise on which 
all eyes are now turned, it is not merely scientific re- 
search and geogra]3hical discovery that are at present 
occuj)ying the attention of the commanders of vessels 
sent out ; the lives of human beings are at stake, and 
above all, the lives of men who have nobly periled 
every thing in the cause of national — nay, of universal 
progress and knowledge ; — of men who have evinced 
on this and other expeditions the most dauntless bra- 
very that any men can evince. TVho can think of the 
probable fate of these gallant adventurers without a 
shudder ? 

Alas ! how truthfully has Montgomery depicted the 
fatal imprisonment of vessels in these regions : — 

There lies a vessel in tliat realm of frost, 
N"ot -wrecked, not stranded, yet forever lost ; 
Its keel embedded in the solid mass ; 
Its ghstening sails appear expanded glass ; 
The transverse ropes with pearls enormous sti'ung; 
The yards with icicles grotesquely hung. 
Wrapt in the topmast shrouds there rests a boy. 
His old sea-faring father's only joy ; 
Sprung from a race of rovers, ocean boni, 
Nursed at the helm, he trod dry land with scorn , 
Through fourscore years from port to port he veer'd ; 
Quicksand, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd; 
Now cast ashore, though like a hulk he lie. 
His son at sea is ever in his eye. 
He ne'er shall know in his Northumbrian cot, 
How brief that son's career, how strange his lot ; 
Writhed round the mast, aud sepulchred in air. 
Him shall no worm devour, no vulture tear ; 
Congeal'd to adamant his frame shall last, 
Though empires change, till tide and time be past 
Morn shall return, and noon, and eve, and night 
Meet here with interchanging shade and light ; 
But from that barque no timber shall decay. 
Of these cold forms no feature pass away ; 
Perennial ice around th' encrusted bow. 
The peopled-deck, and full-rigg'd mast shall grow 
Till from the sun himself the whole be hid, 
Or spied beneath a ciystal pyramid : 
As in pare amber with divergent lines, 
A rugged shell embossed with sea-weed, shines. 
From age to age increased with annual snow. 
This now Mont Blanc among the clouds may glow. 
Whose conic peak that earliest greets the dawn, 
And latest from the sun's shut eye withdrawn. 



199 

Shall from tlie Zenith, through incumbent gloom. 
Burn lilje a lamp upon this naval tomb. 
But when th' archangel's trumpet sounds on high, 
The pile shall burst to atoms through the sky. 
And leave its dead, upstarting at the call, 
leaked and pale^ before the Judge of alL 

All who read these pages will, I am sure, feel the 
deepest sympathy and admiration of the zeal, persever- 
ance, and conjugal affection displayed in the noble and 
untiring efforts of Lady Franklin to relieve or to dis- 
cover the fate of her distinguished husband and the gal- 
lant party under his command, despite the difficulties, 
disappointments, and heart-sickening " hope deferred " 
with which these efforts have been attended. All men 
must feel a lively interest in the fate cf these bold men, 
and be most desirous to contribute tow^ard their resto- 
ration to their country and their homes. The name of 
the present Lady Fi:anklin is as " familiar as a house- 
hold word " in every bosom in England ; she is alike 
the object of our admiration, our sympathy, our hopes, 
and our prayers. Nay, her name and that of her hus- 
band is breathed in prayer in many lands — and, oh! 
how earnest, how zealous, how courageous, have been 
her efforts to find and relieve her husband, for, like 
Desdemona, 

" She loved him for the dangers he had passed, 
And he loved her that she did pity them." 

How has she traversed from port to port, bidding " God 
speed their mission " to each public and private ship 
going forth on the noble errand of mercy — how freely 
and promptly has she contributed to their comforts. 
How has she watched each arrival from the north, 
scanned each stray paragraph of news, hurried to the 
Admiralty on each rumor, and kept up with unremit- 
ting labor a voluminous correspondence with all the 
quarters of the globe, fondly wishing that she had the 
wings of the dove, that she might ffee away, and be 
with him from whom Heaven has seen fit to separate 
her so long. 

An American poet well depicts her sentiments in the 
folk>wing lines : — • 



t 



200 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

LADY FRANKLIN'S APPEAL TO THE NORTH.. 

Oh, wtere, my long lost-one ! art thou, 

*Mid Arctic seas and wintiy skies ? 
Deep, Polar night is on me now, 

And Hope, long wrecked, but mocks my ones 
I am like thee ! from frozen plains 

In the drear zone and sunless air. 
My dying, lonely heart complains. 

And chills in sorrow and despair. 

Tell me, ye Northern winds ! that sweep i 

Down from the rayless, dusky day — i 

Where ye have borne, and where ye keep, j 

My well-beloved within your sway ; | 

Tell me, when next ye wildly bear , 

The icy message in your breath, ' ' 

Of my beloved ! Oh tell me where \ 

Ye keep him on the shores of death. i 

Tell me, ye Polar seas ! that roll 

Erom ice-bound shore to sunny isle — 
Tell me, when next ye leave the Pole, i 

Where ye have chained my Igi-d the while! i 

On the bleak Northern cliff I wait ^ 

With tear -pained eyes to see ye come I i 

Will ye not tell me, ere too late ? 

Or will ye mock while I am dumb ? 

Tell me, oh tell me, mountain waves ! 

Whence have ye leaped and spning to-daj t 
Have ye passed o'er their sleeping graves 

That ye rush wildly on your way ? 
Will ye sweep on and bear me too ^ 

Down to the caves within the deep ? S 

Oh, bring some token to my view 

That ye my loved one safe wiU keep I 

Canst thou not tell me. Polar Star I 

Where in the frozen waste he kneels ? 
And on the icy plains afar 

His love to God and me reveals ? 
Wilt thou not send one brighter ray 

To my lone heart and aching eye ? 
Wilt thou not turn my night to day. 

And wake my spirit ere I die ? 

Tell rae„ oh dreaiy North ! for now 

My soul is like thine Arctic zonej 
Beneath the darkened skies I bow. 

Or ride the stormy sea alone ! 
Tell me of my beloved ! for I 

Know not a ray ray lord without I 
Oh, tell me, that I may not die 

A SQiTower on th^ sea of doubt I 



201 

In the early part of 1849, Sir E. Parry stated, tha^ 
in offering his opinions, he did so under a deep sense 
of the anxious and even painful responsibility, both as 
regarded the risk of life, as well as the inferior consid- 
eration of expense involved in further attempts to res 
cue our gallant countrymen, or at least the surviving 
portion of them, from their perilous position. 

But it was his deliberate conviction, that the time 
had not yet arrived when the attempt ought to be given 
up as hopeless : the further efforts making might also 
be the means of determining their fate, and whether it 
pleased God to give success to those efforts or not, the 
Lords of the Admiralty, and the country at large, would 
hereafter be better satisfied to have followed up the 
noble attempts already made, so long as the most dis- 
tant hope remains of ultimate success. 

In the absence of authentic information of the fate 
of the gallant band of adventurers, it has been well 
observed, the terra incognita of the northern coast of 
Arctic America, will not only be traced, but minutely 
surveyed, and the solution of the problem of centuries 
will engage the marked attention of the House of Com- 
mons, and the legislative assemblies of other parts of 
the world. The problem is very safe in their hands, so 
safe indeed that two years will not elapse before it is 
solved. 

The intense anxiety and apprehension now so gener- 
ally entertained for the safety of Sir John Franklin, 
and the crews of the Erebus and Terror, under his com- 
mand, who, if still in existence, are now passing through 
the severe ordeal of a fifth winter, in those inclement 
regions, imperatively call for every available effort to 
be made for their rescue from a position so perilous ; 
and as long as one possible avenue to that position re- 
mains unsearched, the country will not feel satisfied 
that every thing has been done, which perseverance 
and experience can accomplish, to dispel the mystery 
which at present surrounds their fate. 

Capt. Sir James Ross having returned successful from 
^is antarctic expedition in the close of the preceding 



202 PEOGKESS OF AiiCTIC DISCOVEEY. 

year, in the spring of 1845, the Lords Commissioners 
of the Admiralty, upon the recommendation of Sir 
John Barrow, determined on sending out another ex- 
pedition to the North Pole. 

Accordingly the command was given to Sir John 
Fr*^nMin, who re-commissioned the Erebus and Terror, 
the two vessels which had just returned from the South 
Polar Seas. The expedition sailed from Sheerness on 
the 20th of May, 1845. The following are the officers 
belonging to these vessels, and for whose safety so deep 
an interest is now felt : — 

Erebus. 
Captain — Sir John Franklin, K. C. H. 
Commander — James Fitzjames, (Capt.) 
Lieutenants — Graham Gore, (Commander,) Henry 

T. D. Le Yesconte, James William Fairholme. 
Mates — Chas. F. des Yaux, (Lieut.,) Eobert O'Sar- 

gent, (Lieut.) 
Second Master — Henry F. Collins. 
Surgeon — Stephen S. Stanley. 
Assistant-Surgeon — Harry D. S. Goodsir, (acting.) 
Paymaster and Purser — Chas. H. Osmer. 
Ice-master — James Reid, acting. 
58 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. 

Full Complement, 70, 

Terror, 
Captain — Fras. "R. M. Crozier. 
Lieutenants — Edward Little, (Commander,) Geo. H. 

Hodgson, John Irving. 
Mates — Frederick J. Hornby, (Lieutenant,) Robert 

Thomas, (Lieut.) 
Ice-master — T. Blanky, (acting.) 
Second Master — G. A. Maclean. 
Surgeon — John S. Peddie. 
Assistant-Surgeon — Alexander McDonald. 
Clerk in Charge — Edwin J. H. Helpman. 
57 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. 

Full Complement, 68. 



203 

Those officers whose rank is within parenthesis have 
been promoted during their absence. 

The following is an outline of Capt. Franklin's ser- 
vices as recorded in O'Byrne's I^aval Biography : — 

Sir John Franklin, Kt., K. R. G., K. C. H., D. C. L., 
F. R. S., was born in 1786, at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire, 
and is brother of the late Sir W. Franklin, Kt., Chief 
Justice of Madras. He entered the navy in October, 
1800, as a boy on board the Polyphemus, 64, Captain 
John Lawford, under whom he served as midshipman 
in the action off Copenhagen, 2d of April, 1801. He 
then sailed with Captain Flinders, in H. M. sloop In- 
vestigator, on a voyage of discovery to 'New Holland, 
joining there the armed store-ship Porpoise ; he was 
wrecked on a coral reef near Cato Bank on the lYth of 
August, 1803. I shall not follow him through all his 
subsequent period of active naval service, in which he 
displayed conspicuous zeal and activity. But we find 
him taking part at the battle of Trafalgar, on the 21st 
of October, 1805, on board the Bellerophon, where he 
was signal midshipman. He was confirmed as Lieu- 
tenant,, on board the Bedford, 74, 11th of February, 
1808, and he then escorted the royal family of Portugal, 
from Lisbon to South America. He was engaged in 
very arduous services during the expedition against 
ISTew Orleans, in the close of 1814, and was slightly^ 
wounded in boat service, and for his brilliant services on 
this occasion, was warmly and officially recommended 
for promotion. On the 14:th of January, 1818, he as- 
sumed command of the hired brig Trent', in which he 
accompanied Captain D. Buchan, of the Dorothea, on 
the perilous voyage of discovery to the neighborhood 
of Spitzbergen, which I have fully recorded elsewhere. 
In April, 1819, having paid off the Trent in the pre- 
ceding I:*^ovember, he was invested with the conduct 
of an expedition destined to proceed overland from the 
shores of Hudson's Bay, for the purpose more particu- 
larly of ascertaining the actual position of the mouth 
of" the Coppermine Kiver, and the exact trending of the 
shores of the Polar Sea, to the eastward of that river. 



204 PKOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

The details of this fearful undertaking, which en- 
dured until the summer of 1822, and in the course .of 
which, he reached as far as Point Turnagain, in latitude 
68° 19' N ., and longitude 109° 25' W., and effected a 
journey altogether of 5550 miles, Captain Franklin 
has ably set forth in his "J^arrative of a Journey to 
the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the year 1819-22," and 
which I have abridged in preceding pages. He was 
promoted to the rank of Commander, on the 1st of 
January, 1821, and reached his post rank on the 20th 
of ISTovember, 1822. On the 16th of February, 1825, 
this energetic officer again left England on another ex- 
pedition to the Frozen Eegions, having for its object a 
co-operation with Captains F. W. Beechey, and W. E. 
Parry, in ascertaining from opposite quarters the ex- 
istence of a northwest passage. The results of this 
mission will be found in detail in Captain Franklin's 
"JSTarrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the 
Polar Sea, in 1825-7." 

On his return to England, where he arrived on the 
26th of Sept., 1827, Franklin was presented by the 
Geographical Society of Paris, with a gold medal val- 
ued at 1200 francs, for having made the most important 
acquisitions to geographical knowledge during the pre- 
ceding year, and on the 29th of April, 1829, he received 
the honor of knighthood, besides being awarded in July 
following the Oxford degree of a D. C. L. 

From 1830 to 1834, he was in active service in com- 
mand of H. M. S. Kainbow, on the Mediterranean sta- 
tion, and for his exertions during that period as con- 
nected with the troubles in Greece, was presented with 
the order of the Redeemer of Greece. Sir John was 
created a K. C. FL on the 25th of January, 1836, and 
was for some time Governor of Yan Diemen's Land. 
He married, on the 16th of August, 1823, Eleanor 
Anne, youngest daughter of W. Porden, Esq., architect, 
of Berners Street, London, and secondly, on the 5th of 
ISTovember, 1828, Jane, second daughter of John Grif- 
fin, Esq., of Bedford Place. 

Captain Crozier was in all Parry's expeditions, hav- 



205 

ing been midsliipnian in the Fury in 1821, in the 
Hecla in 1824, went out as Lieutenant in the Hecla, 
with Parry, on his boat expedition to the Pole in 1827, 
Yolnnteereci in 1836 to go ont in search of the missing 
whalers and their crews to Davis' Straits, was made a 
Captain in 1841, and was second in command of the 
antarctic expedition nnder Sir James Koss, and on his 
return, appointed to the Terror, as second in command 
under Franklin. 

Lieutenant Gore served as a mate in the last fearful 
voyage of the Terror, under Back, and was also with 
Hoss in the antarctic expedition. He has attained his 
commander's rank during his absence. 

Lieutenant Fairholme was in the E"iger expedition. 

Lieutenant Little has also been promoted during his 
absence, and so have all the mates. 

Commander Fitzjames is a brave and gallant officer, 
who has seen much service in the East, and has attained 
to his post rank since his departure. 

The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel in 
which Captain Sir G. Back made his perilous attempt 
to reach Pepulse Bay, in 1836. 

The Erebus and Terror were not expected home un- 
less success had early rewarded their efforts, or some 
casualty hastened their return, before the close of 1847, 
nor were any tidings anticipated from them in the in- 
terval ; but when the autumn of 1847 arrived, without 
any intelligence of the ships, the attention of H. M. 
Government was directed to the necessity of searching 
for, and conveying relief to them, in case of their being 
imprisoned in the ice, or wrecked, and in want of pro- 
visions and means of transport. 

For this purpose a searching expedition in three 
divisions was fitted out by the government, in the early 
part of 1848. The investigation was directed to three 
different quarters simultaneously, viz : 1st, to that by 
which, in case of success, the ships would come out of 
the Polar Sea, to the westward, or Behring's Straits. 
This consisted of a single ship, the Plover, commanded 
by Captain Moore, which left England in the latter end 



206 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. 

of January, for tlie purpose of entering Behring's Strait. 
It was intended that she should arrive there in the 
month of July, and having looked out for a winter har- 
bor, she might send out her boats northward and east- 
ward, in which directions the discovery ships, if suc- 
cessful, would be met with. The Plover, however, in 
her first season, never even approached the place of her 
destination, owing to her setting ofi" too late, and to her 
bad sailing properties. 

Her subsequent proceedings, and those of her boats 
along the coast, will be found narrated in after pages. 

The second division of the expedition was one of 
boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between 
the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, or from the 
135th to the 115th degree of W. longitude, together 
with the south coast of Wollaston Land, it being sup- 
posed, that if Sir John Franklin's party had been com- 
pelled to leave the ships and take to the boats, they 
would make for this coast, whence they could reach the 
Hudson's Bay Company's posts. This party was placed 
under the command of the faithful friend of Franklin, 
and the companion of his former travels. Dr. Sir John 
Richardson, who landed at ^KTew York in April, 1848, 
and hastened to join his men and boats, which were 
already in advance toward the arctic shore. He was, 
however, unsuccessful in his search. 

The remaining and most important portion of this 
searching expedition consisted of two ships under the 
command of Sir James Boss, which sailed in May, 184:8, 
for the locality in which Franklin's ships entered on. 
this course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of Davis' 
Straits. These did not, however, succeed, owing to the 
state of the ice in getting into Lancaster Sound until 
the season for operations had nearly closed. These ships 
wintered in the neighborhood of Leopold Island, Regent 
Inlet, and missing the store-ship sent out with pro- 
visions and fuel, to enable them to stop out another 
year, were driven out through the Strait by the pack 
of ice, and returned home unsuccessful. The subse- 
quent expeditions consequent upon the failure of the 



20T 

foregoing will be found fully detailed and narrated in 
tlieir proper order. 

Among the number of volunteers for ttie service of 
exploration, in the different searching expeditions, were 
the following: — Mr. Chas. Reid, lately commanding 
the whaling ship Pacific, and brother to the ice-master 
on board the Erebus, a man of great experience and 
respectability. 

The Rev. Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara in 
search of Capt. Conolly and Col. Stoddart. 

Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five years 
as an officer and partner of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
and who has recently published an interesting narra- 
tive of his experience in the northwest regions. 

Dr. Richard King, who accompanied Capt. Back in 
his land journey to the mouth of the Great Fish River. 

Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R. ]^., who had recently gone 
out in the Pioneer, tender to the Resolute. 

Commander Forsyth, R. ]^., who volunteered for all 
the expeditions, and was at last sent out by Lady Frank- 
lin in the Prince Albert. 

Dr. McCormick, R. IST., who served under Captain Sir 
E. Parry, in the attempt to reach the North Pole, in 1827, 
who twice previously volunteered his services in 1847. 

Capt. Sir John Ross, who has gone out in the Felix, 
fitted out by the Hudson's Bay Company, and by pri- 
vate subscriptions ; and many others. 

Up to the present time no intelligence of any kind 
has been received respecting the expedition, and its 
fate is now exciting the most intense anxiety, not only 
on the part of the British government and public, but 
of the whole civilized world. The maratime powers of 
Europe and the United States are vying with each other 
as to who shall be the first to discover some trace of the 
:iiissing navigators, and if they be still alive, to render 
»hem assistance. The Hudson's Bay Company have, 
witli a noble liberality, placed all their available re- 
sources of men, provisions, and the services of their 
chief and most experienced traders, at the disposal of 
government. The Russian authorities have also given 



208 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

every facility for diffusing information and affording 
assistance in their territories. 

In a letter from Sir John Franklin to Colonel Sabine, 
dated from the Whale Fish Islands, 9th of July, 1815, 
after noticing that, including what they had received 
from the transport which had accompanied them so far, 
the Erebus and Terror had on board provisions, fuel, 
clothing and stores for three years complete from that 
date, i. e. to July, 1848, he continues as follows: — "1 
hope my dear wife and daughter will not be over-anxious 
if we should not return by the time they have fixed upon; 
and I must beg* of you to give them the benefit of your 
advice and experience when that arrives, for you know 
well, that even after the second winter, without success 
in our object, we should wish to try some other channel, 
if the state of our provisions, and the health of the 
crews justify it. 

Capt. Dannett, of the whaler. Prince of Wales, while 
in Melville Bay, last saw the vessels of the expedition, 
moored to an iceberg, on the 26th of July, in lat. T4° 
48' JSr., long. 66^ 13' W., waiting for a favorable open- 
ing through the middle ice from Bafiin's Bay to Lancas- 
ter Sound. Capt. Dannett states that during three weeks 
after parting company with the ships, he exj^erienced 
very fine w^eather, and thinks they would have made 
good progress. 

Lieut. G-rifiith, in command of the transport which 
accompanied them out with provisions to Baffin's Bay, 
reports that he left all hands well and in high spirits. 
Tliey were then furnished, he adds, with every species 
of provisions for three entire years, independently of 
five bullocks, and stores of every description for the 
same period, with abundance of fuel. 

The following is Sir John Franklin's official letter 
sent home by the transport : — 

" Jler Majesty'^s Ship ' Erebus^ 
" Whale-Fish Islands, V2.th of July, 1845. 

" I have the honor to acquaint you, for the informa- 
tion of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that 



FEANKLIn's last EXPEDITION". 209 

her Majesty's sliips Erebus and Terror, with the trans- 
port, arrived at this anchorage on the 4th instant, hav- 
ing had a passage of one month from Stromness : the 
transport was immediately taken alongside this ship, 
that she might be the more readily cleared ; and we 
have been constantly employed at that operation till 
last evening, the delay having been caused not so 
much in getting the stores transferred to either of the 
ships, as in making the best stowage of them below, 
as well as on the upper deck ; the ships are now com- 
plete with supplies of every kind for three years ; they 
are therefore very deep; but, happily, we have no 
reason to expect much sea as we proceed farther. 

" The magnetic instruments were landed the same 
morning ; so also were the other instruments requisite 
for ascertaining the position of the observatory ; and 
it is satisfactory to find that the result of the observa- 
tions for latitude and longitude accord very nearly 
with those assigned to the same place by Sir Edward 
Parry; those for the dip and variation are equally sat- 
isfactory, which were made by Captain Crozier with 
the instruments belonging to the Terror, and by Com- 
mander Fitzjames with those of the Erebus, 

" The ships are now being swung, for the purpose 
of ascertaining the dip and deviation of the needle on 
board, as was done at Greenhithe, which, I trust, will 
be completed this afternoon, and I hope to be able to 
sail in the night. 

"The governor and principal persons are at this 
time absent from Disco, so that I have not been able 
to receive any communication from head quarters as 
to the state of the ice to the north ; I have, however, 
icarnt from a Danish carpenter in charge of the Es- 
quimaux at these islands, that though the winter was 
severe, the spring was not later than usual, nor was 
the ice later in breaking away hereabout ; he supposes 
also that it is now loose as far as 74P latitude, and that 
our prospect is favorable of getting across the barrier, 
and as far as Lancaster Sound, without much obstruc- 
tion. 

14 



210 PEOGEESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY. 

"The transport will sail for England this day. 1 
sliall instruct the agent, Lieutenant Griffiths, to pro- 
ceed to Deptford, and report his arrival to the Secre- 
tary of the Admiralty. I have much satisfaction in 
bearing my testimony to the careful and zealous man- 
ner in which Lieut. Griffiths has performed the service 
intrusted to him, and would beg to recommend him, 
as an officer who appears to have seen much service, 
to the favorable consideration of their lordships. 

"It is unnecessary for me to assure their lordships 

of the energy and zeal of Captain Crozier, Commander 

Fitzjames, and of the officers and men with whom I 

have the happiness of being employed on this service. 

"I have, &c., 

(Signed) John Feanklin, Captain. 

"The Right Hon. H. L. Corry, M. P." 

It has often been a matter of surprise that but one 
of the copper cylinders which Sir John Franklin was 
instructed to throw overboard at stated intervals, to 
record his progress, has ever come to hand, but a re- 
cent sight of the solitary one which has been received 
proves to me that they are utterly useless for the 
purpose. A small tube, about the size of an ordi- 
nary rocket-case, is hardly ever likely to be observed 
among huge masses of ice, and the waves of the At- 
lantic and Pacific, unless drifted by accident on shore, 
or near some boat. The Admiralty have wisely or- 
dered them to be rendered more conspicuous by being 
headed up in some cask or barrel, instructions being 
issued to Captain Collinson, and other officers of the 
different expeditions to that eifect. 

According to Sir John Eichardson, who was on inti- 
mate terms with Sir John Franklin, his plans were to 
shape his course in the first instance for the neighbor- 
hood of Ca|)e Walker, and to ]3ush to the westward in 
that parallel, or, if that could not be accomplished, to 
make his way southward, to the channel discovered on 
the Jiortli coast of the continent, and so on to Behring's 
Straits ; failing success in that quarter, he meant to re- 
trace his course to Wellington Sound, and attempt a 



FEAls^KLm's LAST EXPEDITION. 211 

passage northward of Parry's Islands, and if foiled there 
also, to descend Regent Inlet, and seek the passage 
along the coast discovered by Messrs. Dease and Simp- 
eon. 

Captain Fitzjames, the second in command nnder 
Sir John Franklin, was much inclined to try the pas- 
sage northward of Parry's Islands, and he would no 
doubt endeavor to persuade Sir John to pursue this 
course if they failed to the southward. 

In a private letter of Captain Fitzjames to Sir John 
Barrow, dated January, 1845, he writes as follows : — 

" It does not appear clear to me what led Parry down 
Prince Regent Inlet, after having got as far as Melville 
Island before. The northwest passage is certainly to 
be gone through by Barrow's Strait, but whether south 
or north of Parry'a Group, remains to be proved. I am 
for going north, edging northwest till in longitude 140°, 
if possible." 

1 shall now proceed to trace, in chronological order 
and succession, the opinions and proceedings of the 
chief arctic explorers and public authorities, with the 
private suggestions offered and notice in detail the re- 
lief expeditions resulting therefrom. 

In February, 1847, the Lords of the Admiralty state, 
that having unlimited confidence in the skill and re- 
sources of Sir John Franklin, they " have as yet felt no 
apprehensions about his safety ; but on the other hand, 
it is obvious, that if no accounts of him should arrive 
by the end of this year, or, as Sir John Ross expects, at 
an earlier period, active steps must then be taken." 

Captain Sir Edward Parry fully concurred in these 
views, observing, " Former experience has clearly shown 
that with the resources taken from this country, two 
winters may be passed in the polar regions, not only in 
safety, but with comfort ; and if any inference can be 
drawn from the absence of all intelligence of the expe- 
dition up to this time, I am disposed to consider it ra- 
ther in favor than otherwise of the success which has 
attended their efforts." 

Captain Sir G. Back, in a letter to the Secretary of 



212 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

the Admiralty, under date 27th of January, 1848, says, 
"I cannot bring myself to entertain more than ordi- 
nary anxiety for the safety and return of Sir John 
Franklin and his gallant companions." 

Captain Sir John Eoss records, in February, 1847, 
his oj^inion that the expedition was frozen up bej^ond 
Melville Island, from the known intentions of Sir John 
Franklin to put his ships into the drift ice at the west- 
ern end of Melville Island, a risk which was deemed 
in the highest degree imprudent by Lieutenant Parry 
and the officers of the expedition of 1819-20, with 
ships of a less draught of water, and in every respect 
better calculated to sustain the pressure of the ice, and 
other dangers to which they must be exposed ; and as 
it is now well known that the expedition has not suc- 
ceeded in passing Behring's Strait, and if not totally 
lost, must have been carried by the ice that is known 
to drift to the southward on land seen at a great dis- 
tance in that direction, and from which the accumu- 
lation of ice behind them will, as in Ross's own case, 
forever prevent the return of the ships ; consequently 
they must be abandoned. When we remember with 
what extreme difficulty Eoss's party traveled 300 miles 
over much smoother ice after they abandoned their 
vessel, it appears very doubtful whether Franklin and 
his men, 138 in number, could possibly travel 600 
miles. 

In the contingency of the ships having penetrated 
some considerable distance to the southwest of Cape 
"Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in the 
narrow channels of the Archipelago, which there are 
reasons for believing occupies the space between Yic- 
toria, Wollaston, and Banks' Lands, it is well re- 
marked by Sir John Eichardson, that such accident? 
among ice are seldom so sudden but that the boats of 
one or of both ships, with provisions, can be saved ; 
and in such an event the survivors would either returi? 
to Lancaster Strait, or make for the continent, accord 
jng to their nearness. 

Colonel Sabine remarks, in a letter dated Woolv^ic^, 



FEANKLIN's last EXPEDITION". 213 

5th of May, 1847, — " It was Sir John Franklin's inten- 
tion, if foiled at one point, to try in succession all the 
probable openings into a more navigable part of the 
Polar Sea : the range of coast is considerable in which 
memorials of the ships' progress would have to be 
sought for, extending from Melville Island, in the west, 
to the great Sound at the head of Baffin's Bay, in the 
east." 

Sir John Eichardson, when appealed to by the Admi- 
ralty in the spring of 1847, as regarded the very strong 
apprehensions expressed at that time for the safety of 
the expedition, considered they were premature, as the 
ships were specially equipped to pass two winters in 
the Arctic Sea, and until the close of that year, he saw 
no well-grounded cause for more anxiety than was nat- 
urally felt when the expedition sailed from this country 
on an enterprise of peril, though not greater than that 
which had repeatedly been encountered by others, and 
on one occasion by Sir John Ross for two winters also, 
but who returned in safety. 

Captain Sir James C. Eoss, in March, 1847, writes* 
"I do not think there is the smallest reason for appre- 
hension or anxiety for the safety and success of the 
expedition ; no one acquainted with the nature of the 
navigation of the Polar Sea would have expected they 
would have been able to get through to Behring's Strait 
without spending at least two winters in those regions, 
except under unusually favorable circumstances, which 
all the accounts from the whalers concur in proving 
they have not experienced, and I am quite sure neither 
Sir John Franklin nor Captain Crozier expected to do so. 

" Their last letters to me from "Whale Fish Islands, 
the day previous to their departure from them inform 
me that they had taken on board provisions for three 
years on full allowance, which they could extend to four 
years without any serious inconvenience ; so that we 
may feel assured they cannot want from that cause until 
after the middle of July, 1849 ; it therefore does not 
appear to me at all desirable to send after them until the 
spring of the next year." (1848.) 



21d PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

In tlie plan submitted by Captain F. "W. Beecbey, 
R. E"., in April, 1847, after premising " tbat tbere does 
not at present appear to be any reasonable apprehen- 
sion for the safety of tbe expedition," be suggested tbat 
it would perhaps be prudent that a relief expedition 
should be sent out that season to Cape Walker, where 
information of an important nature would most likely 
be found. From this vicinity one vessel could proceed 
to examine the various points and headlands in Regent 
Inlet, and also those to the northward, while the other 
watched the passage, so that Franklin and his party 
might not pass unseen, should he be on his return. At 
the end of the season the ships could winter at Port 
Bowen, or any other port in the vicinity of Leopold 
Island. 

" In the spring of 1848," he adds, "a part}^ should be 
directed to explore the coast, down to Hecla and Fury 
Strait, and to endeavor to communicate with the party 
dispatched by the Hudson's Bay Company in that direc- 
tion ; and in connection with this part of the arrange- 
ment, it would render the plan complete if a boali could 
be sent down Back's River to range the coast to the 
eastward of its mouth, to meet the above mentioned 
party ; and thus, while it would complete the geography 
of that part of the American coast, it would at the same 
time complete the line of information as to the extensive 
measures of relief which their lordships have set on 
foot, and the precise spot where assistance and depots 
of provisions are to be found. This part of the plan 
has suggested itself to me from a conversation I had 
with Sir John Franklin as to his first effort being made 
to. the westward and southwestward of Cape Walker. 
It is possible that, after passing the Cape, he may have 
oeen successful in getting down upon Victoria Land, 
and have passed his first winter (1845) thereabout, and 
£hat he may have spent his second winter at a still more 
advanced station, and even endured a third, without 
either a prospect of success, or of an extrication of his 
vessels within a given period of time. 

" If, in this condition, which I trust may not be the 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 215 

case, Sir Jolin T'ranMin should resolve upon taking to 
his boats, he would prefer attempting a boat navigation 
through Sir James Boss's Strait, and up Regent Inlet, 
to a long land journey across the continent, to the Hud- 
son's Bay Settlements, to which the greater part of his 
crew would be wholly unequal." 

Sir John Richardson remarks upon the above sugges- 
tions, on the 5th of May, 1847,-^" With respect to a 
party to be sent down Back's River to the bottom of 
Regent Inlet, its size and outfit would require to be 
equal with that of the one now preparing to descend 
the Mackenzie River, and it could scarcely with the 
utmost exertions be organized so as to start this sum- 
mer. The present scarcity of provisions in the Hudson's 
Bay country precludes the hope of assistance from the 
Company's southern posts, and it is now too late to 
provide the means of transport through the interior of 
supplies from this country, which require to be embarked 
on board the Hudson's Bay ships by the 2d of June at 
the latest. 

" Moreover there is no Company's post on the line of 
Back's River nearer than the junction of Slave River 
with Great Slave Lake, and I do not think that under 
any circumstances Sir John Franklin would attempt 
that route. 

" In the summer of 1849, if the resources of the party 
I am to conduct remain unimpaired, as I have every 
reason to believe they will, much of what Capt. Beechey 
suggests in regard to exploring Yictoria Land may be 
done by it, and indeed forms part of the original scheme. 
The extent of the examination of any part of the coast 
in 1848 depends, as I formerly stated, very much on 
the seasons of this autumn and next spring, which influ- 
ence the advance of the boats through a long course of 
river navigation. As Governor Simpson will most 
likely succeed in procuring an Esquimaux to accom- 
pany my party, I hope by his means to obtain such 
information from parties of that nation as may greatly 
facilitate our finding the ships, should they be detained 
in that quarter. 



216 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. 

"Were Sir John Franklin thrown upon the north 
coast of the continent with his boats, and all his crew, 
I do not think he would attempt the ascent of any river, 
exce]3t the Mackenzie. It is navigable for boats of large 
draught, without a portage, for 1300 miles from the 
sea, or within forty miles of Fort Chipewyan, one of 
the Company's principal depots, and there are five 
other posts in that distance. Though these posts could 
not furnish provisions to such a party, they could, by 
providing them with nets, and distributing the men to 
various fishing stations, do much toward procuring food 
for them. 

"I concur generally in what Captain Beechey has 
said with regard to Behring's Straits, a locality with 
which he is so intimately acquainted, but beg leave to 
add one remark, viz : that in high northern latitudes 
the ordinary allowance of animal food is insufiicient in 
the winter season to maintain a laboring man in health ; 
and as Sir John Franklin would deem it prudent when 
detained a second winter to shorten the allowance, 
symptoms of scurvy may show themselves among the 
men, as was the case when Sir Edward Parry wintered 
two years in Fox's Channel. 

" A vessel, therefore, meeting the Erebus and Terror 
this season in Behring's Straits, might render great 
service." ''^ 

The late Sir John Barrow, Bart., in a memorandum 
dated July, 1847, says : — 

" The anxiety that prevails regarding Sir John Frank- 
lin, and the brave fellows who compose the crews of 
the two ships, is very natural, but somewhat premature ; 
it arises chiefly from nothing having been received from 
them since fixed in the ice of Baffin's Bay, where the 
last whaling ship of the season of 1845 left them, oppo- 
site to the opening into Lancaster Sound. Hitherto no 
difficulty has been found to the entrance into that 
Sound. If disappointed, rather than return to the south- 
ward, with the view of wintering at or about Disco^ I 

* Pali. Paper, N'o. 264, Session 1848, 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 217 

sliotild be inclined to think that they would endeavor to 
enter Smith's Sound, so highly spoken of by Baffin, and 
which just now that gallant and adventurous Russian, 
Admiral Count Wrangel, has pointed out in a paper 
addressed to the Geographical Society as the staining 
place for an attempt to reach the North Pole ; it would 
appear to be an inlet that runs up high to the northward, 
as an officer in one of Parry's ships states that he saw 
in the line of direction along that inlet, the sun at mid- 
night skimming the horizon. 

" From Lancaster Sound Franklin's instructions di- 
rected him to proceed through Barrow's Strait, as far as 
the islands on its southern side extended, which is short 
of Melville Island, which was to be avoided, not only 
on account of its dangerous coast, but also as being out 
of the direction of the course to the intended object. 
Having, therefore, reached the last known land on the 
southern side of Barrow's Strait, they were to shape 
a direct course to Behring's Strait, without any devia- 
tion, except what obstruction might be met with from 
ice, or from islands, in the midst of the Polar Sea, of 
which no knowledge had at that time been procured ; 
but if any such existed, it would of course be left to 
their judgment, on the spot, how to get rid of such ob- 
Btructions, by taking a northerly or a southerly course. 

" The only chance of bringing them upon this (the 
American) coast is the possibility of some obstruction 
having tempted them to explore an immense inlet on 
the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, (short of Mel- 
ville Island,) called Wellington Channel, which Parry 
felt an inclination to explore, and more than one of 
the present party betrayed to me a similar inclination, 
which I discouraged, no one venturing to conjecture 
even to what extent it might go, or into what difficulties 
it might lead. 

" Under all these circumstances, it would be an act 
of folly to pronounce any opinion of the state, condi- 
tion, or position of those two ships ; they are well suited 



218 PKOGKESS OF AEOTIC DISCOVERY. 

for their purpose, and the only donbt I have is that of 
their being hampered by the screws among the ice." 

Sir James C. Boss, in his outline of a plan for afford- 
ing relief, submitted to the Admiralty in December, 
1847, suggested that two ships should be sent out to 
examine Wellington Channel, alluded to in the forego- 
ing memorandum of Sir John Barrow, and the coast 
between Capes Clarence and "Walker. A convenient 
winter harbor might be found for one of the ships near 
Garnier Bay or Cape Bennell. From this position the 
coast line could be explored as far as it extended to the 
westward, by detached parties, early in the spring, as 
well as the western coast of Boothia, a considerable 
distance to the southward ; and at a more advanced 
period of 'the season the whole distance to Cape Nicolai 
might be completed. 

The other ship should then proceed alone to the 
westward, endeavoring to reach Winter Harbor, in 
Melville Island, or some convenient port in Banks' 
Land, in which to pass the winter. 

From these points parties might be sent out early in 
the spring. 

The first party should be directed to trace the west- 
ern coast of Banks' Land, and proceed direct to Cape 
Bathurst or Cape Parry, on each of which Sir John 
Bichardson proposes to leave depots of provisions for 
its use, and then to reach the Hudson's Bay Company's 
settlement at Fort Good Hope, on the Mackenzie, 
whence they might travel by the usual route of the 
traders to the principal settlement, and thence to Eng- 
land. 

The second party should explore the eastern shore of 
Banks' Land, and make for Cape Krusenstern, where, 
or at Cape Hearne, they will find a eache of provision 
left by Sir John Bichardson, with whom this jDarty 
may communicate, and whom it may assist in comple- 
ting the examination of WoUaston and Yictoria Lands, 
or return to England by the route he shall deem most 
advisable. 

Sir James Boss was intrusted with the carrying out 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 219 

of this searcli, in the Enterprise and Investigator, and 
an account of the voyage and proceedings of these ves- 
sels will be fonnd recorded in its chronological order. 

The following letter from Dr. Kichard King to the 
Lords of the Admiralty contains some useful sugges- 
tions, although it is mixed up with a good deal of ego- 
tistical remark : — 

"IT, Saville Eow^ February^ 1848. 

"'The old route of Parry, through Lancaster Sound 
and Barrow's Strait, as far as to the last land on its 
southern shore, and thence in a direct line to Behring's 
Straits, is the route ordered to be pursued by Frank- 
lin.' '^ 

"The gallant officer has thus been dispatched to push 
his adventurous way between Melville Island and 
Banks' Land, which Sir E. Parry attempted for two 
years unsuccessfully. After much toil and hardship, 
and the best consideration that great man could give 
to the subject, he recorded, at the moment of retreat, 
in indelible characters', these impressive thoughts : 
'We have been lying near our present station, with 
an easterly wind blowing fresh, for thirty-six hours 
together, and although this was considerably off the 
land, the ice had not during the whole of that time 
moved a single yard from the shore, affording a proof 
that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty 
to move to the westward. The navigation of this part 
of the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching 
the occasional opening between the ice and the shore, 
md therefore, a continuity of land is essential for this 
purpose ; such a continuity of land, which was here 
about to fail, as must necessarily be furnished by the 
northern coast of America, in whatsoever latitude it 
may be found.' Assuming, therefore, Sir John Frank- 
lin has been arrested between Melville Island and 
Banks' Land, where Sir E. Parry was arrested by dif- 
ficulties which he considered insurmountable, and hr 
has followed the advice of that gallant officer, and 

* Barrow's Arctic Voyages, p. 11. 



220 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEET. 

made for the continuity of America, lie will have 
turned the prows of his vessel south and west, accord- 
ing as Banks' Land tends for Yictoria or "Wollaston 
Lands. It is here, therefore, that we may expect to 
find the expedition wrecked, whence they will make 
in their boats for the western land of North Somerset, 
if that land should not be too far distant. 

" In order to save the party from the ordeal of a 
fourth winter, when starvation must be their lot, I 
propose to undertake the boldest journey that has ever 
been attempted in the northern regions of America, 
one which was justifiable only from the circumstances. 
I propose to attempt to reach the western land of N"orth 
Somerset or the eastern portion of Yictoria Land, as 
may be deemed advisable, by the close of the ap- 
proaching summer ; to accomplish, in fact, in one sum- 
mer that which has not been done under two. 

" I rest my hope of success in the performance of 
this Herculean task upon the fact, that I possess an in- 
timate knowledge of the country and the people through 
which I shall have to pass, the health to stand the 
rigor of the climate, and the strength to undergo the 
fatigue of mind and body to which 1 must be subjected. 
A glance at the map of l^orth America, directed to 
Behring's Strait in the Pacific, Barrow's Strait in the 
Atlantic, and the land of North Somerset between 
them, will make it apparent that, to render assistance 
to a party situated on that coast, there are two ways by 
sea and one by land. Of the two sea-ways, the route 
by the Pacific is altogether out of the question ; it is an 
idea of by-gone days ; while that by the Atlantic is so 
doubtful of success, that it is merely necessary, to put 
this assistance aside as far from certain, to mention that 
Sir John Ross found Barrow's Strait closed in the sum- 
mer of 1832. To a land journey, then, alone we can 
look for success ; for the failure of a land journey 
would be the exception to the rule, while the sea expe- 
dition would be the rule itself To the western land of 
North Somerset, where Sir John Franklin is likely to 
be found, the Great Fish River is the direct and only 



OPIKIONS AITD SUGGESTIONS. 221 

route ; and although the approach to it is through a 
country too poor ^nd too difficult of access to admit of 
the transport of provisions, it may be made the medi- 
um of communication between the lost expedition and 
the civilized world, and guides be thus placed at their 
disposal to convey them to the hunting grounds of the 
Indians. Without such guides it is impossible that 
they can reach these hunting grounds, it was by the 
Great Fish River that I reached the Polar Sea while 
acting as second officer, in search of Sir John Ross. 
I feel it my duty, therefore, as one of two officers so 
peculiarly circumstanced, at the present moment to 
place my views on record, as an earnest of my sincer- 
ity. Even if it should be determined to try and force 
provision vessels through Barrow's Strait, and scour 
the vicinity in boats for the lost expedition, and should 
it succeed, it will be satisfactory to know that such a 
mission as I have proposed should be adopted ; while, 
if these attempts should fail, and the service under con 
sideration be put aside, it will be a source of regret 
that not only the nation at large will feel, but the whole 
civilized world. When this regret is felt, and every 
soul has perished, such a mission as I have proposed 
will be urged again and again for adoption ; for it is 
impossible that the country will rest satisfied until a 
search be made for the remains of the lost expedition. 
" The fact that all lands which have a western aspect 
are generally ice-free, which I dwelt largely upon when 
Sir John Franklin sailed, must have had weight with 
the gallant officer ; he will therefore, on finding him- 
self in a serious difficulty, while pushing along the east- 
ern side of Yictoria Land, at once fall upon the western 
land of ISTorth Somerset, as a refuge ground, if he have 
the opportunity. The effort by Behring's Strait and 
Banks' Land is praiseworthy in attempt, but forlorn in 
hope. In the former effort, it is assumed that Sir John 
Franklin has made the passage, and that his arrest is 
betweenr^he Mackenzie River and Icy Cape ; in the 
latter, fhat Sir James Ross will reach Banks' Land, and 
trace its continuity to Yictoria and Wollaston Land, 



222 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

and tlms make the ' passage.' First, We have no rea- 
son to believe that Sir John Franklin and Sir James 
Ross will be more fortunate than their predecessors, 
and we cannot trust to their success. Secondly, We 
are unable to assume that Sir James Ross will reach 
Bank's Land ; Sir E. Parry was unable to reach it, and 
only viewed it from a distance ; much less are we able 
to assume that the gallant officer will find a high road 
to Victoria Land, w^hich is altogether a terra incognita, 

" Mr. T. Simpson, who surveyed the arctic coast 
comprised between the Coppermine and Castor and 
Pollux Rivers, has set that question at rest, and is the 
only authority upon the subject. ' A further explora- 
tion,' remarks Mr. Simpson, from the most eastern limit 
of his journey, ' would necessarily demand the whole 
time and energies of another expedition, having some 
point of retreat much nearer to the scene of operations 
than Great Bear Lake, and Great Bear Lake is to be 
the retreat of Sir John Richardson.' 

" What retreat could Mr. Simpson have meant but 
Great Slave Lake, the retreat of the land party in search 
of Sir John Ross ? and what other road to the unex- 
plored ground, the western land of ISTorth Somerset, 
could that traveler have meant than Great Fish River, 
that stream which I have pointed out as the ice free 
and high road to the land where the lost expedition is 
likely to be found, — to be the boundary of that pass- 
age which for three and a half centuries we have been 
in vain endeavoring to reach in ships ? " 

Captain Sir W. E. Parry, to whom Dr. King's pro- 
posal was submitted by the Admiralty, thus comments 
on, it : — 

" My former opinion, quoted by Dr. King, as to the 
difficulty of ships penetrating to the westward beyond 
Cape Dundas, (the southwestern extremity of Melville 
Island,) remains unaltered ; and I should expect that 
Sir John Franklin, being aware of this difficulty, would 
use his utmost efforts to get to the southward and west- 
ward before he approached that point, that is, between 
the 100th and 110th degree of longitude. The more I 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS 'A3 

have considered this subject, (which has i /^/tZt occu- 
pied much of ray attention lately,) the more difficult I 
find it to conjecture where the expedition r^ay have 
stopped, either with or without any serious accident to 
the ships ; but as no information has reached us up to 
this time, I conceive that there is some considerable 
probability of their being situated somewhere between 
the longitude I have just named ; how far they may 
have penetrated to the southward, between those meri- 
dians, must be a matter of speculation, depending on 
the state of the ice, and the existence of land in a space 
hitherto blank on our maps. 

" Be this as it may, I consider it not improbable, as 
suggested by Dr. King, that an 'attempt will be made 
by them to fall back on the western coast of North 
Somerset, wherever that may be found, as being the 
nearest point affording a hope of communication, either 
with whalers or with ships sent expressly in search of 
the expedition. 

"Agreeing thus far with Dr. King, I am compelled 
to differ with him entirely as to the readiest mode of 
reaching that coast, because I feel satisfied that, with 
the resources of the expedition now equipping under 
-Sir James Ross, the energy, skill, and intelligence of 
that officer will render it a matter of no very difficult 
enterprise to examine the coast in question, either with 
his ships, boats, or traveling parties ; whereas an at- 
tempt to reach that coast by an expedition from the 
continent of America must, as it appears to me, be ex- 
tremely hazardous and uncertain. And as I under- 
stand it to be their lordships' intention to direct Sir 
James Koss to station one of his ships somewhere about 
Cape Walker, while the other proceeds on the search, 
and likewise to equip his boats specially for the pur- 
pose of examining the various coasts and inlets, I am 
decidedly of opinion, that, as regards the western coast 
of ISTorth Somerset, this plan will be much more likely 
to answer the proposed object, than any overland 
expedition. This object will, of course, be the more 
easily accomplished in case of Sir James Ross finding 



224: PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

the western coast of l^ortli Somerset navigable for his 
ships. 

" In regard to Dr. King's suggestion respecting Yic 
toria Land and Wollaston Land, supposing Sir John 
Franklin's ships to have been arrested between the 
meridians to which I have already alluded, it does 
seem, by an inspection of the map, not improba.ble that 
parties may attempt to penetrate to the continent in 
that direction ; but not being well acquainted with the 
facilities for reaching the coast of America opposite 
those lands in the manner proposed by Dr. "King, I am 
not competent to judge of its practicability." 

N"early the whole of the west coast of JSTorth Somer- 
set and Boothia was, (it will be found hereafter,) ex- 
plored by parties in boats detached from Sir James 
Boss's ships in 1849. 

• I append, also, the most important portions of Sir 
James Ross's remarks on Dr. King's plan. 

" Dr. King begins by assuming that Sir John Frank- 
lin has attempted to push the ships through to the west- 
ward, between Melville Island and Banks' Land, (al- 
though directly contrary to his instructions ;) that hav- 
ing been arrested by insurmountable difficulties, he 
would have ' turned the prows of his vessels to the 
south and west, according as Banks' Land tends for 
Victoria or Wollaston Land ;' and having been wrecked, 
or from any other cause obliged to abandon their ships, 
their crews would take to the boats, and make for the 
west coast of IN'orth Somerset. 

" If the expedition had failed to penetrate to the 
westward between Banks' Land and Melville Island, it 
is very probable it would have next attempted to gain 
the continent by a more southerly course ; and sup'pos- 
ing that, after making only small progress, (say 100 
miles.) to the southwest, it should have been then finally 
stopped or wrecked, the calamity will have occurred 
in about latitude Y2^° K, and longitude 115° W. This 
point is only 280 miles from the Coppermine River 
and 420 miles from the Mackenzie, either of wliicl 
would, therefore, be easily attainable, and at each of 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 225 

wLicli, abundance of provision might be procured by 
them, and their return to England a measure of no 
great difficulty. 

" At the point above mentioned, the distance from 
the west coast of North Somerset is probably about 360 
miles, and the mouth of the Great Fish River full 500 ; 
at neither of these places could they hope to obtain a 
single day's provisions for so large a party ; and Sir 
John Franklin's intimate knowledge of the impossibil- 
ity of ascending that river, or obtaining any food for 
his i)arty in passing through the Barren grounds, would 
concur in deterring him from attempting to gain either 
of these points. 

" I think it most probable that, from the situation 
pointed out, he would, when compelled to abandon his 
ships, endeavor in the boats to retrace his steps, and 
passing through the channel by which he had advanced, 
and which we have always found of easy navigation, 
seek the whale ships which annually visit the west coast 
of Baffin's Bay. 

" It is far more probable, however, that Sir John 
Franklin, in obedience to his instructions, would en 
deavor to push the ships to the south and west as soon 
as they passed Cape Walker, and the consequence of 
such a measure, owing to the known prevalence of 
westerly wind, and the drift of the main body of the 
ice, would be (in my opinion) their inevitable embarrass- 
ment, and if he persevered in that direction which he 
probably would do, I have no hesitation in stating my 
conviction he would never be able to extricate his 
ships, and would ultimately be obliged to abandon them. 
It is therefore in latitude Y3° N . and longitude 105° W. 
that we may expect to find them involved in the ice, 
or shut up in some harbor. This is almost the only 
point in which it is likely they would be detained, or 
from which it would not be possible to convey informa- 
tion of their situation to the Hudson's Bay Settlements. 

" If, then, we suppose the crews of the ships should 
be compelled, either this autumn or next spring, to 
abandon their vessels at or near this point, they would 

15 



225 PROGKli:SS OF AKOTIO DISCOVERT. 

most assuredly endeavor, in their boats, to reach Lan- 
caster Sound ; but I cannot conceive any position in 
which they could be placed from which they would 
make for the Great Fish River, or at which any party 
descending that river would be likely to overtake them ; 
and even if it did, of what advantage could it be to 
them? 

" If Dr. King and his party, in their single canoe, 
did fall in with Sir John Franklin and his party on the 
west coast of North Somerset, how does he propose to 
assist them ? he would barely have sufficient provision 
for his own party, and would more probably be in a 
condition to require rather than afford relief. He could 
only tell them what Sir John Franklin already knows, 
from former experience, far better than Dr. King, that it 
would be impossible for so large a party, or indeed any 
party not previously provided, to travel across the bar- 
ren grounds to any of the Hudson's Bay Settlements." 

" All that has been done by the way of search since 
February, 1848, tends," persists Dr. King, " to draw 
attention closer and closer to the western land of ISTorth 
Somerset, as the position of Sir John Franklin, and to 
the Great Fish (or Back) River, as the high road to 
reach it." 

Dr. King has twice proposed to the Admiralty to 
proceed on the search by this route. "It would," he 
states, " be the happiest moment of my life (and my 
delight at being selected from a long list of volunteers, 
for the relief of Sir John Boss, was very great) if their 
lordships would allow me to go by^m,y old route, the 
Great Fish Biver, to attempt to save human life a sec- 
ond time on the shores of the Bolar Sea. What I did 
in search of Sir John Boss is the best earnest of what 
I could do in search of Sir John Franklin." 

A meeting of those officers and gentlemen most con- 
versant with arctic voyages was convened by the 
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty on the ITth of 
January, 184-9, at which the following were present : — 
Bear- Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, K. C. B., Captain 
Sir W. E. Parry, B. N., Captain Sir George Back, B. 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 227 

X., Captain Sir E. Belcher, K. ^N"., Colonel Sabine, E. 
A., and the Rev. Dr. Scoresby. 

A very pretty painting, containing portraits of all the 
principal arctic voyagers in consultation on these mo- 
mentous matters, has been made by Mr. Pearse, artist, 
of 53, Berners Street, Oxford Street, which is well 
worthy of a visit. The beautiful Arctic Panorama of 
Mr. Burford, in Leicester Square, will also give a 
graphic idea of the scenery and appearance of the icy 
regions ; the whole being designed from authentic 
sketches by Lieut. Browne, now of the Pesolute, and 
who was out in the Enterprise in her trip in 1848, and 
also with Sir James Ross in his antarctic voyage. 

The expedition under Sir James Boss having re- 
turned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now 
determined on, and the opinions of the leading officers 
again taken. 

Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, in his report to the 
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on l!^ovember 
24:th, 1849, observes : — 

" There are four ways only in which it is likely that 
the Erebus and Terror would have been lost — by fire, 
by sunken rocks, by storm, or by being crushed be- 
tween two fields of ice. Both vessels would scarcely 
have taken fire together ; if one of them had struck on a 
rock the other would have avoided the danger. Storms 
in those narrow seas, encumbered with ice, raise no 
swell, and could produce no such disaster ; and there- 
fore, by the fourth cause alone could the two vessels 
have been at once destroyed ; and even in that case 
the crews would have escaped upon the ice (as happens 
every year to the whalers ;) they would have saved 
their loose boats, and reached some part of the American 
shores. As no traces of any such event have been found 
on any part of those shores, it may therefore be safely 
affirmed that one ship at least, and both the crews, 
are still in existence ; and therefore the point where 
they now are is the great matter for consideration. 

"Their orders would have carried them toward Mel- 
ville Island, and then out to the westward, where it is 



228 PEOQEESS 'OF AECTIC DISCOVERl 

therefore probable that they are entangle^' among 
islands and ice. For should they have been arrested 
at some intermediate place, for instance, Cape Walker, 
or at one of the northern chain of islands, they wonld, 
undoubtedly, in the course of the three following years, 
have contrived some method of sending notices of theii 
position to the shores of J^orth Somerset or to Barrow'8 
Strait. 

"If they had reached much to the southward of 
Bank's Land, they would surely have communicated 
with the tribes on Mackenzie River ; and if, failing to 
get to the westward or southward, they had returned 
with the intention of penetrating through Wellington 
Channel, they would have detached parties on the ice 
toward Barrow's Strait, in order to have deposited 
statements of their intentions. 

" The general conclusion, therefore, remains, that they 
are still locked up in the Archipelago to the westward 
of Melville Island. Now, it is well known that the 
state of the weather alternates between the opposite 
sides of Northern America, being mild on the one when 
rigorous on the other ; and accordingly, during the two 
last years, which have been unusually severe in Baffin's 
Bay, the United States whalers were successfully trav- 
ersing the Polar Sea to the northward of Behring's 
Straits. The same severe weather may possibly prevail 
on the eastern side during the summer of 1850, and if 
so, it is obvious that an attempt should be now made 
by the western opening, and not merely to receive the 
two ships, if they should be met coming out (as for- 
merly,) but to advance in the direction of Melville 
Island, resolutely entering the ice, and employing every 
possible expedient by sledging parties, by reconnoitering 
balloons, and by blasting the ice, to communicate with 
them. 

"These vessels should be intrepidly commanded, 
effectively manned, and supplied with the best means 
for traveling across the ice to the English or to the 
Russian settlements, as it will be of the greatest impor- 
tance to be informed of what progr-^ss the expedition 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 

has made; and for this purpose likewise the Plover 
will be of material service, lying at some advanced 
point near Icy Cape, and ready to receive intelligence, 
and to convey it to Petropanlski or to Panama. 

"These vessels should enter Behring's Straits before 
the first of August, and therefore every effort should 
be now made to dispatch them from England before 
Christmas. They might water at the Falkland Islands, 
and again at the Sandwich Islands, where they would 
be ready to receive additional instructions via Panama, 
by one of the Pacific steamers, and by which vessel 
they might be pushed on some little distance to the 
northward. 

" It seems to me likely that the ships have been push- 
ing on, summer after summer, in the direction of Behr- 
ing's Straits, and are detained somewhere in the space 
southwestward of Banks' Land. On the other hand, 
should they, after the first or second summer, have been 
unsuccessful in that direction, they may have attempted 
to proceed to the northward, either through Wellington 
Channel, or through some other of the openings among 
the same group of islands. I do not myself attach any 
superior importance to Wellington Channel as regards 
the northwest passage, but I understand that Sir John 
Franklin did, and that he strongly expressed to Lord 
Haddington his intention of attempting that route, if 
he should fail in effecting the more direct passage to 
the westward. 

"The ships having been fully victualed for three 
years, the resources may, by due precautions, have 
been extended to four years for the whole crews ; but 
it has occurred to me, since I had the honor of confer- 
ring with their lordships, that, if their numbers have 
been gradually diminished to any considerable extent 
by death, (a contingency which is but too probable, con- 
sidering their unparalleled detention in the ice,) the 
resources would be proportionably extended for the 
survivors, whom it might, therefore, be found expedient 
to transfer to one of the ships, wdth all the remaining 
stores, and with that one ship to continue the endeavor 



230 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

to piish westward, or to retnrn to the eastward, as cii-- 
cumstances might render expedient ; in that case, the 
necessity for quitting both the ships in the past sum- 
mer might not improbably have been obviated. 

" Under these circumstances, which, it must be admit 
ted, amount to no more than mere conjecture, it seems 
to me expedient still to prosecute the search in both 
directions, namely, by way of Behring's Strait (to which 
I look with the strongest hope,) and also by that of 
Barrow's Strait. In the latter direction, it ought, I 
think, to be borne in mind, that the more than usual 
difficulties with which Sir James Ross had to contend, 
have, in reality, left us with very little more informa- 
tion than before he left England, and I cannot contem- 
plate without serious apprehension, leaving that opening 
without still further search in the ensuing spring, in 
case the missing crews have fallen back to the eastern 
coast of J^orth Somerset, where they would naturally 
look for supplies to be deposited for them, in addition 
to the chance of finding some of those left by the Fury. 
For the purpose of further pursuing the search by way 
of Barrow's Strait, perhaps two small vessels of 150 or 
200 tons might suffice, but they must be square rigged 
for the navigation among the ice. Of course the object 
of such vessels would be nearly that which Sir James 
Koss's endeavors have failed to accomplish ; and the 
provisions, &c., left by that officer at Whaler Point, 
as well as any which may be deposited in that neigh- 
borhood by the ISTorth Star, would greatly add to the re- 
sources, facilitate the operations, and lessen the risk of 
any attempt made in that direction. 

" If, however, there be time to get ships to Behring's 
Straits by the first week in August,- 1850, which would 
perhaps require the aid of steam vessels to accomplish 
with any degree of certainty, I recommend that the 
Enterprise and Investigator be forthwith equipped and 
dispatched there, with instructions to push through the 
ice to the E. E". E. as far as possible in the ensuing sea- 
son, with the hope of meeting with at least one of the 
ships, or any of the parties which may have been 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 231 

detached from them. This attempt has never yet been 
made by any ships, and I cling very strongly to the 
belief that such an effort might be attended with suc- 
cess in rescuing at least a portion of our people. 

" My reason for urging this upon their Loj-dships is, 
that the admirable instructions under vrhich the Plover, 
assisted by the Herald, is acting, embraces only the 
search of the coast line eastward from Icy Cape ; since 
the boats and baidars cannot effect any thing except by 
creeping along as opportunities offer, between the ice 
and the land, so that this plan of operations meets only 
the contingency of parties reaching, or nearly reaching, 
the land ; whereas the chance of rescue would, as it 
appears to me, be immensely increased by ships push- 
ing on, clear of the coast, toward Banks' Land and 
Melville Island, as far at least as might be practicable 
in the best five or six weeks of the season of 1850." 

Captain Parry says — "Although this is the first at- 
tempt ever made to enter the ice in this direction, with 
ships properly equipped for the purpose, there is no 
reason to anticipate any greater difficulties in this navi- 

fation than those encountered in other parts of the 
lorth Polar Sea ; and, even in the event of not suc- 
ceeding in reaching Banks' Land in the summer of the 
present year, it may be possible to make such progress 
as to afford a reasonable hope of effecting that object 
in the following season (1851.) Indeed it is possible 
that, from the weU known fact of the climate being 
more temperate in a given parallel of latitude, in going 
westward from the Mackenzie River, some comparative 
advantage may be derived in the navigation of this 
part of the Polar Sea. 

" It is of importance to the security of the ships and 
of their crews that they should winter in some harbor 
or bay not at a distance from land, where the ice might 
be in motion during the winter ; and it will be desira- 
ble, should no land be discovered fit for this purpose, 
in the space at present unexplored between Point Bar- 
row and Banks' Land, that endeavors should be made to 
reach the continent about the mouth of the Mackenzie 



232 PBOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

Kiver, or further eastward, toward Liveri30ol Eay, 
wliere there is reason to siij^pose that sufficient shelter 
may be found, and in which neighborhood, it aj)pears, 
there is generally no ice to be seen from the shore foi 
about six wrecks in the months of August and Septem- 
ber. Sir John Franklin's narrative of his second jour 
ney, that of Messrs. Dease and Simpson, and the 
Admiralty Charts, will furnish the requisite hydro- 
graphical information relative to this line of coast, s€> 
far as it has been attained. 

" The utmost economy should be exercised in the use 
of provisions and fuel during the time the &hij)s are in 
winter quarters ; and if they should winter on or near 
the continent, there would probably be an opportunity 
of increasing their stock of provisions by means of 
game or fish, and likewise of fuel, by drift or other 
wood, to some considerable amount. 

" If the progress of the ships in 1850 has been con- 
siderable — for instance, as far as the meridian of 120° 
W. — the probability is, that the most practicable way 
of returning to England will be, still to push on in the 
same direction during the whole season of 1851, with 
a view to reach Barrow's Strait, and take advantage, 
if necessary, of the resoiu'ces left by Captain Sir James 
Koss at "Whaler Point, near Leopold Harbor; if not the 
same season, at least after a second mnter. If, on the 
other hand, small progress should have been made to 
the eastward at the close of the present summer, it 
might be prudent that when half the navigable season 
of 1851 shall have expired, no further attempts should 
be made in proceeding to the eastward, and that the 
remaining half of that season should be occupied in 
returning to the westward, with a view to escape from 
the ice by way of Behring's Straits after the winter of 
1851-52, so as not to incur the risk of passing a third 
winter in the ice. 

" During the summer season, the most vigilant look- 
out should be kept from the mast-heads of both ships 
night and day, not only for the missing ships, but for 
iny detached parties belonging to them ; and during 



OPINIONS Aim SUGGESTIONS. 238 

the few hours of darlaiess which prevail toward the close 
of each season's navigation, and also when in winter 
quarters, signals, bj fires, blue lights, rockets or guns, 
shoiild be made as the means of jDointing out the posi- 
tion of the ships to any detached parties belonging to 
the missing expedition. And in the spring before the 
ships can be released from the ice, searching parties 
might be sent out in various directions, either in boats 
or by land, to examine the neighboring coasts and inlets 
for any trace of the missing crews." 

Captain Sir George Back also comments (1st of De- 
cember, 1849,) on these intentions, in a letter to the Sec- 
retary of the Admiralty : — 

" You will be pleased. Sir, to impress upon my Lords 
Commissioners, that I wholly reject all and every idea 
of any attempts on the part of Sir John Franklin to 
send boats or detachments over the ice to any part of 
the main-land eastward of the Mackenzie River, because 
I can say from experience, that no toil-worn and ex- 
hausted party could have the least chance of existence 
by going there. 

" On the other hand, from my knowledge of Sir John 
Franklin, (having been three times on discovery to- 
gether,) I much doubt if he would quit his ship at all, 
except in a boat ; for any attempt to cross the ice a long 
distance on foot would be tempting death ; and it is too* 
laborious a task to sledge far over such an uneven sur- 
face as those regions generally present. That great 
mortality must have occurred, and that one ship, as Sir 
E. Beaufort hints at, may be lost, are greatly to be feared ; 
and, as on all former exj)editions, if the survivors are 
paralyzed by the depressing attacks of scurvy, it would 
then be impossible for them, however desirous they 
might be, to leave the ship, which must thus become 
their last most anxious abode. 

"If, however, open water should have allowed Sir 
John Franklin to have resorted to his boats, then I am 
persuaded he would make for either the Mackenzie 
River, or, which is far more likely, from the almost 
certainty he must have felt of finding provision. Capo 
Clarence and Fury Point. 



S34: PEOGRKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

" I am aware tliat tLe whole cuances of life in this 
painful case depend on food ; but when I reflect on 
Sir John Franklin's former extraordinary ^^I'cservatioii 
inider miseries and trials of the most severe description, 
liv^ing often on scraps of old leather and other refuse, I 
cannot desj.mn* of his finding the means to prolong exist- 
ence till aid be happily sent him." 

Dr. Sir John Richardson on the same day also sends 
in his opinion, as requested, on the proposed dispatcli 
of the Enterj^rise and Investigator to Behring's Strait ; 

" It seems to me to be very desirable that the western 
shores of the Archipelago of Parry's Islands should be 
searched in a high latitude in the manner projDOsed by 
th e hy d rographer. 

" If tlie proposed expedition succeeds in establishing 
its winter quarters among these islands, parties de- 
tached over the ice may travel to the eastward and 
southeastward, so as to cross the line of search which it 
is hoped Mr. Eae has been able to pursue in the i^resent 
summer, and thus to determine whether any traces of 
the missing ships exist in localities the most remote 
from Behring's Strait and Lancaster Sound, and from 
whence shipwrecked crews would find the greatest diffi- 
culty in traveling to any j)lace wliere they could hope 
to find relief. 

, " The climate of Arctic America improves in a sensi- 
ble manner with an increase of western longitude. On 
the Mackenzie, on the 135th meridian, the summer is 
warmer than in any district of the continent in the same 
parallel, and it is still finer, and the vegetation more 
luxuriant on the banks of the Yucon, on the 150th me- 
ridian. This superiority of climate leads me to infer, 
that ships well fortified against drift-ice, will find the 
navigation of the Arctic Seas more practicable in its 
western portion than it has been found to the eastward. 
This inference is supported by my own personal exjye- 
rience, as far as it goes. I met with no ice in .the month 
of August, on my late voyage, till I attained the 123d 
meridian, and which I was led, from that circumstance, 
to suppose coincided with the western limits of Parry's 
Archipelago. 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 235 

' The greater facility of navigating from tlie west has 
bt?en powerfully advocated by others on former occa- 
sions ; and the chief, perhaps the only reason why the 
attempt to penetrate the Polar Sea from that quarter 
has not been resumed since the time of Cook is, that 
the lengtlf of the previous voyage to Behring's Strait 
would considerably diminish the store of provisions ; 
but the facilities of obtaining supplies in the Pacific are 
now so augmented, that this objection has no longer the 
same force." 

Captain F. W. Beechey, writing from Cheltenham, 
on the 1st of December, 1849, says : — 

" I quite agree with Sir Francis Beaufort in what he 
has stated with regard to any casualties which Sir J. 
Franklin's ships may have sustained, and entirely agree 
with him and Sir Edward Parry, that the expedition is 
2)robably hampered among the ice somewhere to the 
south westward of Melville Island ; but there is yet a 
possibility which does not appear to have been contem- 
plated, which is, that of the scurvy having spread among 
the crew, and incapacitated a large proj)ortion of them 
from making any exertion toward their release, or that 
the whole, in a debilitated state, may yet be clinging 
by their vessels, existing sparingly upon the provision 
which a large mortality may bave sj)un out, in the 1ioj)Q 
of relief 

" In the first case, that of the ships being hampered 
and the crews in good health, I think it certain that, a? 
the resources of the ships would be expended in May 
last. Sir John Franklin and his crew have abandoned 
the ships, and pushed forward for the nearest point 
where they might reasonably expect assistance, and 
which they could reasonably reach. 

"There are consequently three points to which it 
would be proper to direct attention, and as the case is 
urgent, every possible method of relief should be ener- 
getically pushed forward at as early a ]:»eriod as possi- 
ble, and directed to those points, which, I need scarcely 
say, are Barrow's Strait, Behring's Strait, and the 
northern coast of America. 



236 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

" Of the measures which can be resorted to on tht 
northern coast of America, the officers who have ha(J 
experience there, and the Hudson's Bay Company, will 
be able to judge ; but I am of opinion that nothing 
should be neglected in that quarter ; for it seems to 
me almost certain that Sir John Franklin and his crew, 
if able to travel, have abandoned their ships and made 
for the continent ; and if they have not succeeded in 
gaining the Hudson's Bay outposts, they have been 
overtaken by winter before they could accomplish their 
purpose. 

" Lastly as to the opinion which naturally forces itself 
upon us, as to the utility of the sending relief to per- 
sons whose means of subsistence will have failed them 
more than a year by the time the relief could reach 
them, I would observe, that a prudent reduction of the 
allowance may have been timely made to meet an 
emergency, or great mortality may have enabled the 
survivors to subsist up to the time required, or it may 
be that the crews have just missed reaching the points 
visited by our parties last year before they quitted them, 
and in the one case may now be subsisting on the sup- 
plies at Leopold Island, or be housed in eastward of Point 
Barrow, sustained by depots which have been fallen in 
with, or by the native supplies ; so that under all the 
circumstances, I do not consider their condition so 
utterly hopeless that we should give up the expectation 
of yet being able to render them a timely assistance. 

" The endeavors to push forward might be continued 
until the 30th of August, at latest, at which time, if tht 
ships be not near some land where they can conven 
iently pass a winter, they must direct their course for 
the main-land, and seek a secure harbor in which they 
could remain. And on no account should they risk a 
winter in the pack, in consequence of the tides and 
shallow water lying off the coast. 

" Should the expedition reach Herschel Island, or 
any other place of refuge on the coast near the mouth 
of the Mackenzie or Colville Rivers, endeavors should 
be made to communicate information of the ships' posi- 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 237 

tioa and snmmer's proceedings througli the Hudson's 
Bay Company or Russian settlements, and by means 
of interpreters ; and no opportunity should be omitted 
of gaming Irom the natives information of the missing 
ressels, as well as of any boat expeditions that may have 
^one forward, as well as of the party under Dr. Rae. 

" If nothing should be heard of Sir John Franklin in 
1850, parties of observation should be sent forward in 
the spring to intercept the route the ship would have 
pursued, and in other useful directions between winter 
quarters and Melville Island ; taking especial care that 
they return to the ship before the time of liberation 
of the ships arrives, which greatly depends upon their 
locality. 

" Then, on the breaking up of the ice, should any 
favorable appearance of the ice present itself, the expe- 
dition might be left free to take advantage of such a 
prospect, or to return round Point Barrow ; making it 
imperative, however, either to insure their return, so 
far as human foresight may be exercised, or the cer- 
tainty of their reaching Melville Island at the close of 
that season, and so securing their return to England 
in 1852. 

" K, after all, any unforeseen event should detain the 
ships beyond the period contemplated above, every 
exertion should be used, by means of boats and in- 
terpreters, to communicate with the Mackenzie ; and 
should any casualty render it necessary to abandon the 
vessels, it should be borne in mind that the reserve-ship 
will remain at her quarters until the autumn of 1853, 
unless she hears of the safety of the ships and boats 
in other directions ; while in the other quarter. Fort 
Macpherson, at the entrance of the Mackenzie, may be 
relied upon as an asylum. 

"The Plover, or reserve-ship, should be provided 
with three years' provisions for her own crew, and for 
contingencies besides. She should be placed as near 
as possible to Point Barrow, and provided with inter- 
preters, and the means of offering rewards for infor- 
mation; and she should remain at her quarters so long 



238 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

as there can be any occasion for her presence in („ e 
Arctic Seas ; or, if she does not hear any thing oi t^ie 
expedition nnder Captain CoUinson, as long as her 
provisions will last." 

Sir John Eichardson offers the following advice for 
this expedition : — " If," he says, " it shonld winter 
near the mouth of the Yucan or Colville, that river 
may be ascended in a boat in the month of June, be- 
fore the sea ice begins to give way. The river varies 
in width from a mile ana a half to two miles, and 
flows through a rich, well-wooded valley, abounding in 
moose deer, and having a comparatively mild climate. 
A Russian trading post has been built on it, at the dis 
tance of three or four days' voyage from the sea, with 
the current ; but as the current is strong, from nine to 
twelve days must be allowed for its ascent, with the 
tracking line. It would be unsafe to rely upon receiv- 
ing a supply of provisions at the Eussian post, as it is 
not likely that any stock beyond what is necessary for 
their own use is laid up by the traders ; and the moose 
deer being a very shy animal, is not easily shot by an 
unpracticed hunter ; but the reindeer abound on the 
neighboring hills, and are much more approachable. 
The white-fronted goose also breeds in vast flocks in 
that district of the country, and may be killed in num- 
bers, without difiiculty, in the month of June. 

" If the expedition should winter within a reason- 
able distance of the Mackenzie, Captain Collinson 
may have it in his power to send dispatches to England 
by that route. 

"The river opens in June, and as soon as the ice 
ceases to drive, may be ascended in a boat, with a fair 
wind, under sail, or with a tracking line. 

" The lowest post at present occupied by the Hud- 
son's Bay Company on this river is Fort Gfood Hope. 
The site of this post has been changed several times, 
but it is at this time on the right bank of the river, in 
latitude 66° 16' IT., and is ten or eleven days' voyage 
from the sea. At Point Separation, opposite to the 
middle channel of the delta of the river, and on the 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 239 

promontory which separates the Peel and the Mac- 
kenzie, there is a case of pemmican (80 lbs.) buried, ten 
feet distant from a tree, which has its middle branches 
lopped off, and is marked on the trunk w^ith a broad 
arrow in black paint. A fire was made over the pit 
in which the case is concealed, and the remains of the 
charcoal will point out the exact spot. This hoard 
was visited last year by a party from Fort Macpher- 
6on, Peel's River, when all was safe. 

"Eight bags of pemmican, weighing 90 lbs. each, 
were deposited at Fort Good Hope in 1848, and would 
remain there last summer for the use of any boat 
parties that might ascend the river in 1849 ; but it is 
probable that part, or the whole, may have been used 
by the Company by next year. 

"A boat party should be furnished with a small 
seine and a short herring net, by the use of which a 
good supply of fish may often be procured in the 
eddies or sandy bays of the Mackenzie. They should 
also be provided with a good supply of buck-shot, swan- 
shot, duck-shot, and gunpowder. The Loucheux and 
Hare Indians will readily give such provisions as they 
may happen to have, in exchange for ammunition. 
They will expect to receive tobacco gratuitously, as 
they are accustomed to do from the traders. 

"The Mackenzie is the only water-way by which 
any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts can be 
reached from the Arctic Sea. There is a post on the 
Peel River which enters the delta of the Mackenzie, 
but no supplies can be procured there. To the east- 
ward of the Mackenzie no ship-party would have a 
chance of reaching a trading post, the nearest to the 
sea being Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, situ- 
ated on the 61st parallel of latitude, and the interven- 
ing hilly country, intersected by numerous lakes and 
rapid rivers, could not be crossed by such a party ii 
less than an entire summer, even could they depenu 
on their guns for a supply of food. ISTeither would 
be advisable for a party from the ships to attempt to 
reach the posts on the Mackenzie by way of the Cop- 



24:0 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

permine River and Fort Confidence; as, in the ab- 
sence of means of transport across Great Bear Lake, 
the journey round that irregular sheet of water, would 
be long and hazardous. Bear Lake River is more 
than fifty miles long, and Fort Korman, the nearest 
post on the Mackenzie, is thirty miles above its mouth. 
Mr. Rae was instructed to engage an Indian family or 
two to hunt on the tract of country between the Cop- 
permine and Great Bear Lake in the summer of 1850 ; 
but no gre|,t reliance can be placed on these Indians 
remaining long there, as they desert their hunting 
quarters on very slight alarms, being in continual 
dread of enemies, real or imaginary. 

" A case of pemmican was buried on the summit ot 
the bank, about four or five miles from the summit of 
Cape Bathurst, the spot being marked by a pole planted 
in the earth, and the exact locality of the deposit by a firfe 
of drift-wood, much of which would remain unconsumed. 

" Another case was deposited in the cleft of a rock, 
on a small battlemented cliff, which forms the extreme 
part of Cape Parry. The case was covered with loose 
stones ; and a pile of stones painted red and white, 
was erected immediately in front of it. This cliff re- 
sembles a cocked-hat in some points of view, and pro- 
jects like a tongue from the base of a rounded hiU, 
which is 500 or 600 feet high. 

" Several cases of pemmican were left exposed on a 
ledge of rocks in latitude 68° 35' N., opposite Lambert 
Island, in Dolphin and Union Strait, and in a bay to 
the westward of Cape Krusenstern, a small boat and 
ten pieces of pemmican were deposited under a high 
cliff, above high water mark, without concealment. 
The Esquimaux on this part of the coast are not nu- 
merous, and from the position of this hoard, it may 
escape discovery by them ; but I have every reason to 
believe that the locality has been visited by Mr. Rae in 
the past summer. A deposit of larger size, near Cape 
Kendall, has been more certainly visited by Mr. Rae." 

Captain Sir J. C. Ross writes from Haslar, 11th of 
February, 1850. 



OPINIONS Amy SUGGESTIONS. 241 

^* With respect to tlie probable position of tbe Erebus 
and Terror, I consider that it is hardly possible they 
can be anywhere to the eastward of Melville Island, 
or within 300 miles of Leopold Island, for if that were 
the case, they would assuredly, during the last spring, 
have made their way to that point, with the hope of 
receiving assistance from the whale-ships which, foi 
several years previous to the departure of that expedi- 
tion from England, had been in the habit of visiting 
Prince Regent Inlet in pursuit of whales ; and in that 
case they must have been met with, or marks of their 
encampments have been found by some of the numer- 
ous parties detached from the Enterprise and Investi- 
gator along the shores of that vicinity during the only 
period of 9ie season in which traveling is practicable 
in those regions, 

"It is probable, therefore, that during their first 
summer, which was remarkably favorable for the navi- 
gation of those seas, they have been enabled (in obedi- 
ence to their orders) to push the ships to the westward 
of Banks' land, and have there become involved in the 
heavy pack of ice which was observed from Melville 
Island always to be setting past its westernmost point 
in a southeast direction, and from which pack they may 
not have been able to extricate their ships. 

" From such a position, retreat to the eastward would, 
be next to impossible, while the journey to the Mac- 
kenzie River, of comparatively easy accomplishment, 
together with Sir John Franklin's knowledge of the 
resources in the way and of its practicability, would 
strengthen the belief that this measure will have been 
adopted by them during the last spring, 

"If this be assumed as the present position of the 
Erebus and Terror, it would manifestly be far more 
easy and safe to afford them relief by means of an ex- 
pedition enteriug Behring's Straits, than from any other 
direction, as it would not be necessary for the ships to 
depart so far from the coast of North America as to 
preclude their keeping up a regular communication 
with the Russian settlements on the River Colville, or 

16 



242 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

those of the Hudson's Bay Company near the month 
of the Mackenzie, while the whole space between any 
position in which the ships might winter, and Banks' 
Land conld be thoroughly examined by traveling par- 
ties early in the spring, or by boats or st6am launches 
at a more advanced period of the following season." 

Mr. W. Snov/, in a letter from 'New York, dated 7th 
of January, 1850, suggests a plan for a well organized 
expedition of as many men as could be fitted out from 
private funds. " For instance, let a party of 100 picked 
men, well disciplined and officered, as on board a ship, 
and accompanied with all the necessary food, scientific 
instruments, and every thing useful on such expeditions. 
proceed immediately, by the shortest and most avail- 
able routes, to the lands in the neighborhood of the un- 
explored regions. If possible, I would suggest that 
they should proceed first to Moose Fort, on the south 
ern part of Hudson's Bay, and thence by small craft 
to Chesterfield Inlet, or otherwise by land reach that 
quarter, so as to arrive there at the opening of summer. 
From this neighborhood let the party, minus ten men, 
be divided into three separate detachments, each with 
specific instructions to extend their researches in a 
northerly and northwesterly direction. The wutstern- 
most party to proceed as near as possible in a direct 
course to the easternmost limits of discovery yet made 
from Behring's Straits, and on no account to deviate 
from that course on the western side of it, bui^, if ne- 
cessary, to the eastward. Let the central part^ shape a 
course as near as possible to the position of the Mag- 
netic Pole ; and the easternmost division direct to 
Prince Eegent Inlet, or the westernmost point of dis- 
covery from the east, and not to deviate from that course 
easterly. Let each of these detachments be formed 
again into three divisions, each division thus consisting 
of ten men. Let the first division of each detachmeni 
pioneer the way, followed on the same track by tht 
second and the third, at stated intervals of time. Or. 
the route, let the pioneers, at every spot necessary, leav& 
distinguishing marks to denote the way, and also to 



OPINIONS AND SUGOESTIONS. 24:3 

give information to either of the other two principal 
detachments as may bj chance fall into their track 
To second the efforts of the three detachments, let con 
Btant succors and other assistance be forwarded by 
way of Moose Fort, and through the ten men left at 
Chesterfield Inlet ; and should the object for which 
such an expedition was framed be happily accom- 
plished by the return of the lost voyagers, let messen- 
gers be forwarded with the news, as was done with 
Captain Back, in the case of Captain Ross. Let each 
of the extreme detachments, upon arriving at their re- 
spective destinations, and upon being joined by the 
whole of their body, proceed to form plans for uniting 
with the central party, and ascertaining the results 
already obtained by each by sending parties in that 
direction. Also, let a chosen number be sent out from 
each detachment as exploring parties, wherever deemed 
requisite ; and let no effort be wanted to make a search 
in every direction where there is a possibility of its 
proving successful. 

" If a public and more extensive expedition be set on 
foot, I would most respectfully draw attention to the 
following suggestions : — Let a land expedition be formed 
upon a similar plan, and with the same number of men, 
say 300 or more, as those fitted out for sea. Let this 
expedition be formed into three great divisions ; the one 
proceeding by the Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake, 
and following out Captain Back's discoveries ; the 
second, through the Churchill district ; or, with the 
third, according to the plan laid out for a private expe- 
dition alone ; only keeping the whole of their forces as 
much as possible bearing upon the points where success 
may be most likely attainable. 

" Each of these three great divisions to be subdivided 
and arranged also as in the former case. The expense 
of an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary 
outlay for provisions, &c., I do not think would be more 
than half what the same would cost if sent by sea ; but 
of this I am not a competent judge, having no definite 
means to make a comparison. But there is yet another, 



244 PBOGEESS OF ARCTIC DloCOVEET. 

and, I cannot help conceiving, a more easy way of ob- 
viating all difficulty on this point, and of reducing the 
expense considerably. 

" It must be evident that the present position of the 
arctic voyagers is not very accessible, either by land 
or sea, else the distinguished leader at the head of the 
expedition would long ere this have tracked a route 
whereby the whole party, or at least some of them 
could return. 

" In such a case, therefore, the only way to reach 
them is by, if I may use the ex-pression, forcingr an ex- 
pedition on toward them ; I mean, by keeping it con- 
stantly upheld and pushing onward. There may be, 
and indeed there are, very great difficulties, and diffi- 
culties of such a nature that, I believe, they would 
themselves cause another great difficulty in the procur- 
ing of men. But, if I might make another bold sug- 
gestion, I would respectfully ask our government at 
home, why not employ picked men from convicted 
criminals, as is done in exploring expeditions in Aus- 
tralia ? Inducements might be held out to them ; and 
by proper care they would be made most serviceable 
auxiliaries. Generally speaking, men convicted of 
offenses are men possessed of almost inexhaustible 
mental resources ; and such men are the men who, 
with physical powers of endurance, are precisely those 
required. But this I speak of, merely, if sufficient free 
men could not be found, and if economy is studied." 

Mr. John McLean, who has been twenty-five years a 
partner and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, and 
has published an interesting narrative of his adven- 
tures and experience, writing to Lady Franklin from 
Canada West, in January, 1850, suggests the following 
very excellent plan as likely to produce some intelli- 
gence, if not to lead to a discovery of the party. 

" Let a small schooner of some thirty or forty tons 
burden, built with a view to draw as little water as 
possible, and as strong as wood and iron could make 
her, be dispatched from England in company with the 
Hudson's Bay ships. This vessel would, immediately 



OPINIONS AND SFGOESTIONS. 245 

on arriving at York Factory, proceed to the Strait 
termed Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome, which divides 
Southampton Island from the main-land ; then direct 
her course to Wager River, and proceed onward until 
interrupted bj insurmountable obstacles. The party 
being safely landed, I would recommend their remain- 
ing stationary until winter traveling became practicable, 
when they should set out for the shores of the Arctic 
Sea, which, by a reference to Arrowsmith's map, ap- 
pears to be only some sixty or seventy miles distant ; 
then dividing in two parties or divisions, the one would 
proceed east, the other west ; and I think means could 
be devised of exploring 250 or 300 miles in either 
direction ; and here a very important question pre- 
sents itself, — how and by what means is this enterprise 
to be accomplished ? 

" In the first place, the services of Esquimaux would 
be indispensable, for the twofold reason, that no reliable 
information can be obtained from the natives without 
their aid, and that they alone properly understand the 
art of preparing snow-houses, or ' igloes,' for winter en- 
campment, the only lodging which the desolate wastes 
of the arctic regions afford. Esquimaux understanding 
the English language sufficiently well to answer our 
purpose, frequent the Hudson's Bay Company's post 
in Labrador, some of whom might be induced, (I should 
fain hope,) to engage for the expedition , or probably 
the ' half-breed ' natives might do so more readily than 
the aborigines. They should, if possible, be strong, 
active men, and good marksmen, and not less than four 
in number. Failing in the attempt to procure the na- 
tives of Labrador, then I should think Esquimaux 
might be obtained at Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; the 
two who accompanied Sir John in his first land expedi- 
tion were from this quarter." 

An expedition of this kind is to be sent out by Lady 
Franklin this spring under the charge of Mr. Kennedy. 
There are various ways of accomplishing this object, 
the choice of which must mainly depend on the views 
and wishes of the officer who may undertake the com- 



24:6 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

mand. Besides the nortliern route, or'tliat by Regent 
Inlet, it is possible to reach Sir James Ross and Simp- 
son's Straits from the south, entering Hudson's Bay, 
and passing np the "Welcome to Rae Isthmus, or again 
by entering Chesterfield or Wager Inlet, and gaining 
the coast by Back's or the Great Fish River. 

By either of these routes a great part of the explora- 
tion must be made in boats or on foot. In every case 
the main points to be searched are James Ross's Strait 
and Simpson's Strait, if indeed there be a passage in 
that direction, as laid down in Sir John Franklin's charts, 
though contradicted by Mr. Rae, and considered still 
doubtful by some arctic navigators. 

The following extract from the Geographical Jour- 
nal shows the opinion of Franklin upon the search of 
this quarter. Dr. Richardson says,^ — " ISTo better plan 
can be proposed than the one suggested by Sir John 
Franklin, of sending a vessel to Wager River, and car- 
rying on the survey from thence in boats." 

Sir John Franklin observes,-!- — " The Doctor alludes 
in his letter to some propositions which he knew I had 
made in the year 1828, at the command of his present 
Majesty-, v^Williamiy.,) on the same subject, and partic- 
ularly to th^; suggestion as to proceeding from Repulse 
or Wager Baj. ^ * * A recent careful reading of all 
the narratives connected with the surveys of the Wager 
and Repulse Bays, and of Sir Edward Parry's Voyage, 
together with the information obtained from the Esqui- 
maux by Sir Edward Parry, Sir John Ross, and Cap- 
tain Back, confirm me in opinion that a successful de- 
lineation of the coast east of Point Turnagain to the 
Strait of the Fury and Hecla, would be best attained 
by an expedition proceeding from Wager Bay, the 
northern parts of which cannot, I think, be farther dis- 
tant than forty miles from the sea, if the information 
received by the above-mentioned officers can be de- 
pended on." 

Dr. McCormick particularly draws attention to Jones* 
and Smith's Sounds, recommending a careful examin 

* Journal of Geographical Society, vol. vi. p. 40. t Ibid. p. 43. 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 247 

ation of these to their probable termination in the 
Polar Sea : — 

" Jones' Sound, with the "Wellington Channel on the 
west, may be found to form an island of the land called 
* ]N"orth Devon.' All prominent positions on both sides 
of these Sounds should be searched for flag staves and 
piles of stones, under whcih copper cylinders or bot- 
tles may have been deposited, containing accounts of 
the proceedings of the missing expedition ; and if suc- 
cessful in getting upon its track, a clue would be ob- 
tained to the fate of our gallant countrymen," 

The Wellington Channel he considers affords one of 
the best chances of crossing the track of the missing 
expedition. 

To carry out this plan efficiently, he recommended 
that a boat should be dropped, by the ship conveying 
the searching party out, at the entrance to the Welling- 
ton Channel in Barrow's Strait ; from this point one or 
both sides of that channel and the northern shores of 
the Parry Islands might be explored as far west as the 
season would permit of. But should the ship be en- 
abled to look into Jones' Sound, on her way to Lancas- 
ter Sound, and find that opening free from ice, an 
attempt might be made by the Boat Expedition to push 
through it into the "Wellington Channel. In the event, 
however, of its proving to be merely an inlet, which a 
short delay would be sufficient to decide, the ship might 
perhaps be in readiness to pick up the boat on its re- 
turn, for conveyance to its ultimate destination through 
Lancaster Sound ; or as a precaution against any un- 
foreseen separation from the ship, a depot of provisions 
should be left at the entrance to Jones' Sound for the 
boat to complete its supplies from, after accomplishing 
the exploration of this inlet, and to afford the means, 
if compelled from an advanced period of the season 
or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some place 
of refuge, either on board a whaler or some one of the 
depots of provisions on the southern shores of Barrow's 
Strait. 



248 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

Mr. Penny, in charge of the Lady Fi'anMin, before 
Jailing, observed : — 

" If an early passage be obtained, I would examine 
Tones' Sound, as I have generally found in all my early 
voyages clear water at the mouth of that sound, and 
♦•Jiere is a probability that an earlier ]3assage by this 
route might be found into "Wellington Strait, which out- 
let ought by all means to be thoroughly examined at 
the earliest opportunity, since, if Sir J. Franklin had 
taken that route, with the hope of finding a passage 
westward, to the north of the Parry and Melville 
Islands, he may be beyond the power of helping him- 
self 'No trace of the expedition, or practical commu- 
nication with Wellington. Strait, being obtained in this 
quarter, I would proceed in time to take advantage of 
the first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound, with 
the view of proceeding to the west and entering Wel- 
lington Strait, or, if this should not be practicable, of 
proceeding farther westward to Cape Walker, and be- 
yond, on one or other of which places Sir John Frank- 
lin will probably have left some notices of his course." 

The government has seen the urgent necessity of 
causing the Wellington Channel to be carefully exam- 
ined; imperative orders were sent to Sir James Koss 
to search it, but he was drifted out of Barrow's Strait 
against his will, before he received those orders by the 
North Star. 

I have already stated that Sir John Franklin's in- 
structions directed him to try the first favorable open- 
ing to the southwest after passing Cape Walker ; and 
failing in that, to try the Wellington Channel. Every 
ofiicer in the British Service, as a matter of course, 
follows his instructions, as far as they are compatible 
with the exigencies of the case, be it what it may, nor 
ever deviates from them without good and justifiable 
cause. If, then, Sir John Franklin failed in finding an 
opening to the southwest of Cape Walker it is reason- 
able to suppose he obeyed his instructions, and tried 
the Wellington Channel. The second probability in 
favor of this locality is, that Sir John Franklin ex* 



^.i'lNIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 249 

pressed o many of his friends a favorable opinion of 
the Wellington Channel, and, which is of far more 
consequence, intimated his opinion officially, and be- 
fore the expedition was determined upon, that this 
strait seemed to offer the best chance of success. 

Moreover, Capt. Fitzjames, his immediate second in 
command in the Erebus, was strongly in favor of the 
Wellington Channel, and always so expressed himself. 
See his letter, before quoted, to Sir John Barrow, p. 203. 

Who can doubt that the opinion of Capt. Fitzjames, 
a man of superior mind, beloved by all who knew him, 
and in the service " the observed of all observers," would 
have great weight with Sir John Franklin, even if Sir 
John had not been himself predisposed to listen to him. 
What adds confirmation to these views is, that in 1840, 
a few years prior to the starting of the expedition, Col. 
Sabine published the deeply interesting " ITarrative of 
Baron Wrangel's Expedition to the Polar Sea, under- 
taken between the years 1820 and 1823," and in his pre- 
face the translator points to the Wellington Channel as 
the most likely course for the successful accomplishment 
of the northwest passage. "Setting aside," he says, 
" the possibility of the existence of unknown land, the 
probability of an open sea existing to the north of the 
Parry islands, and communicating with Behring Strait, 
appears to rest ^n strict analogical reasoning." And 
again he adds, " all the attempts to effect the northwest 
passage, since Barrow's Strait was first passed in 1819, 
have consisted in an endeavor to force a vessel by one 
route or another through this land-locked and ice-encum- 
bered portion of the Polar Ocean." 

'No examination has made known what may be the 
state of the sea to the north of the Parry Islands; 
whether similar impediments may there present them- 
selves to navigation, or whether a sea may not there 
exist offering no difficulties whatever of the kind, as M. 
Yon Wrangel has shown to be the case to the north of 
the Siberian Islands, and as by strict analogy we should 
be justified in expecting. 
Colonel Sabine is an officer of great scientific expe- 



250 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

rience, and from his having made several polar voyages, 
he has devoted great attention to all that relates to that 
quarter. He was in constant communication with Sir 
John Franklin when the expedition was fitting out, and 
it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be some- 
what guided by his opinion. 

"We have, then, the opinions of Franklin himself, 
Colonel Sabine, and Captain Fitzjames, all bearing on 
this point, and we must remember that Parry, who dis- 
covered and named this channel, saw nothing when 
passing and re-passing it, but a clear open sea to the 
northward. 

Lieut. S. Osborn, in a paper dated the 4th of January, 
1850, makes the following suggestions : — 

"General opinion places the lost expedition to the 
west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of Mel- 
ville Island. The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' 
Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it 
will be seen that nowhere else does the American conti- 
nent approach so near to the supposed position of Frank- 
lin's expedition. 

" Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst !>[. 41° 49', 
E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the 
summer season a portion of this distance may be trav- 
ersed in boats. 

" Dr. Kichardson confirms previous reports of the ice 
being light on the coast east of the Mackenzie Biver to 
Cape Bathurst, and informs us that the Esquimaux had 
seen 'no ice to seaward for two moons.' 

'' Every mile traversed northward by a party from 
Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space in 
which traces of Franklin may be expected. It is advis- 
able that such a second party be dispatched from Cape 
Bathurst, in order that the prosecution of Dr. Rae's 
examination of the supposed channel between Wollas- 
ton and Victoria Lands may in no way be interfered 
with, by his attention being called to the westward." 

In March, 1848, the Admiralty announced their inten- 
tion of rewarding the crews of any whaling ships that 
brought accurate information of the missing expedition^ 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 251 

with the sum of 100 guineas or more, according to cir- 
cumstances. Lady Franklin also about the same time 
offered rewards of 20001. and 3000Z., to be distributed 
among the owner, officers, and crew discovering and 
affording relief to her husband, or making extraordi- 
nary exertions for the above object, and, if required, 
bringing Sir John Franklin and his party to England. 

In March, 1850, the following further rewards were 
offer-ed by the British government to persons of any 
country : — 

1st. To any party or person who in the judgment of 
the Board of Admiralty, shall discover and effectually 
relieve the crews of H. M. ships Erebus and Terror, the 
sum of 20,000Z., or, 

2d. To any party or parties, &c., who shall discover 
and effectually relieve any portion of the crews, or shall 
convey such intelligence as shall lead to the relief of 
any of the crew, the sum of 10,000Z. 

3d. To any party or parties who shall by virtue of 
his or their efforts, first succeed, in ascertaining their 
fate, 10,000?. 

In a dispatch from Sir George Simpson to Mr. Rae, 
dated Lachine, the 21st of January, 1850, he says : — 

" If they be still alive, I feel satisfied that every effort 
it may be in the power of man to make to succor them 
will be exerted by yourself and the Company's officers 
In Mackenzie Eiver ; but should your late search have 
unfortunately ended in disappointment, it is the desire 
of the Company that you renew your explorations next 
summer, if possible. 

" By the annexed correspondence you will observe that 
the opinion in England appears to be that our explora- 
tions ought to be more particularly directed to that por- 
tion of the E'orthern Sea lying between Cape AYalker 
on the east, Melville Island and Banks' Land to the 
north, and the continental shore or the Victoria Islands 
to the south. 

"As these limits are believed to embrace the course 
that would have been pursued by Sir John Franklii?, 
Cape Walker being one of the points he was particu- 



252 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

larly instructed to make for, you will therefore be 
pleased, immediately on the receipt of this letter, to fit 
out another exploring party, to proceed in the direction 
above indicated, but varying the route that may have 
been followed last summer, which party, besides their 
own examination of the coast and islands, should be 
instructed to offer liberal rewards to the Esquimaux to 
search for some vestiges of the missing expedition, and 
similar rewards should be offered to the Indians inhab 
iting near the coast and Peel's River, and the half-bred 
hunters of Mackenzie Biver, the latter being, perhaps, 
more energetic than the former ; assuring them that 
whoever may procure authentic intelligence wiU be 
largely rewarded. 

" Simultaneously with the expedition to proceed to> 
ward Cape "Walker, one or two small parties should be 
dispatched to the westward of the Mackenzie, in the 
direction of Point Barrow, one of which might pass over 
to the Youcon River, and desc^iding that stream to the 
sea, carry on their explorations in that quarter, while 
the other, going down the Mackenzie, might trace the 
coast thence toward the Youcon. And these parties 
must also be instructed to offer rewards to the natives 
to prosecute the search in all directions. 

" By these means there is reason to believe that in 
the course of one year so minute a search may be made 
of the coast and the islands, that in the event of the 
expedition having passed in that direction, some trace 
of their progress would certainly be discovered. 

" From your experience in arctic discovery, and pe- 
culiar qualifications for such an undertaking, I am in 
hopes you may be enabled yourself to assume the 
command of the party to proceed to the northward ; 
and, as leaders of the two parties to explore the coast 
to the westward of the Mackenzie, you will have to 
select such officers of the Company's service within 
the district as may appear best qualified for the duty : 
Mr. Murray, I think, would be a very fit man for one 
of the leaders, and if one party be sent by way of the 
Youcon, he might take charge of it. In the event of 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 253 

your going on this expedition, you will be pleased to 
make over the charge of the district to Chief Trader 
Bell during your absence. 

" In case you may be short-handed, I have by this 
conveyance instructed Chief Factor Ballenden to en- 
gage in Red River ten choice men, accustomed to boat- 
ing, and well fitted for such a duty as will be required 
of them ; and if there be a chance of their reaching 
Mackenzie River, or even Athabasca, before the break- 
ing up of the ice, to forward them immediately. 

" Should the season, however, be too far advanced 
to enable them to accomplish the journey by winter 
traveling, Mr. Ballenden is directed to increase the 
party to fourteen men, with a guide to be dispatched 
from Red River immediately after the opening of the 
navigation, in two boats, laden with provisions and 
flour, and a few bales of clothing, in order to meet, in 
some degree, the heavy drain that will be occasioned 
on our resources in provisions and necessary supplies 
in Mackenzie River. The leader of this party from 
Red River may, perhaps, be qualified to act as the 
conductor of one of the parties to examine the coast 
to the westward." 

On the 5th of February, 1850, another consultation 
took place at the Admiralty among those officers most 
experienced in these matters, and their opinions in 
writing were solicited. It is important, therefore, to 
submit these as fully as possible to the consideration 
of the reader. 

The first is the report of the hydrographer of the 
Admiralty, dated the 29th of January, 1850 : — 

" Memorandum "by Bear- Admiral Sir Francis Beau- 
fort, K. C. B. 
"The Behring's Strait expedition being at length 
,tairly off, it appears to me to be a duty to submit to 
their Lordships that no time should now be lost in 
equipping another set of vessels to renew the search 
on the opposite side, through Baffin's Bay ; and this 
being the fifth year that the Erebus and Terror have 



254 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

been absent, and probably reduced to only casual sup- 
plies of food and fuel, it may be assumed that this 
search should be so complete and effectual as to leave 
unexamined no place in which, by any of the supposi- 
tions that have been put forward, it is at all likely they 
may be found. 

'' Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders 
with levity, and therefore his first attempt was un- 
doubtedly made in the direction of Melville Island, and 
not to the westward. If foiled in that attempt, he 
naturally hauled to the southward, and using Banks' 
Land as a barrier against the northern ice, he would 
try to make westing under its lee. Thirdly, if both of 
these roads were found closed against his advance, he 
perhaps availed himself of one of the four passages 
between the Parry Islands, including the Wellington 
Channel. Or, lastly, he may have returned to Baffin's 
Bay and taken the inviting opening of Jones' Sound. 

'' All those four tracks must therefore be diligently 
examined before the search, can be called complete, 
and the only method of rendering that examination 
prompt and efficient will be through the medium of 
steam ; while only useless expense and reiterated diS' 
appointment will attend the best efforts of sailing ves- 
sels, leaving the lingering survivors of the lost ships^, 
as well as their relatives in England, in equal despair. 
Had Sir James Ross been in a steam vessel, he would 
not have been surrounded with ice and swept out of 
the Strait, but by shooting under the protection of Leo- 

Eold Island, he would have waited there till that fatal 
eld had passed to the eastward, and he then would 
have found a perfectly open sea up to Melville Island. 
"The best application of steam to ice-going vessels 
would be Ericson's screw ; but the screw or paddles of 
any of our moderate-sized vessels might be made tc 
elevate with facility. Vessels so fitted would not re- 
quire to be fortified in an extraordinary degree, not 
more than common whalers. From the log-like quies- 
cence with which a sailing vessel must await the crush 
of two approaching floes, they must be as strong as 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 255 

wood and. iron can make them ; but the steamer slips 
out of the reach of the collision, waits till the shock is 
past, and then profiting by their mutual recoil, darts 
at once through the transient opening. 

"Two such vessels, and each of them attended by 
two tenders laden with coals and provisions, would be 
sufficient for the main lines of search. Every promi- 
nent point of land where notices might have been left, 
would be visited, details of their own proceedings would 
be deposited, and each of the tenders would be left in 
proper positions, as points of rendezvous on which to 
fall back. 

"Besides these two branches of the expedition, it 
would be well to allow the whaling captain (Penny,) to 
carry out his proposed undertaking. His local knowl- 
edge, his thorough acquaintance with all the mysteries 
of the ice navigation, and his well known skill and 
resources, seem to point him out as a most valuable 
auxiliary. 

" But whatever vessels may be chosen for this service, 
I would beseech their lordships to expedite them ; all 
our attempts have been deferred too long ; and there is 
now reason to believe that very early in the season, in 
May or even in April, Baffin's Bay may be crossed be- 
fore the accumulated ice of winter spreads over its 
surface. If they arrive rather too soon, they may very 
advantageously await the proper moment in some of 
*the Greenland harbors, preparing themselves for the 
coming effi)rts and struggles, and procuring Esquimaux 
interpreters. 

" In order to press every resource into the service of 
this noble enterprise, the vessels should be extensively 
furnished with means for blasting and splitting the ice, 
perhaps circular saws might be adapted to the steamers, 
a launch to each party, with a small rotary engine, 
sledges for the shore, and light boats with sledge bear- 
ings for broken ice-fields, balloons for the distribution 
of advertisements, and kites for the explosion of lofty 
fire-balls. And, lastly, they should have vigorous and 
numerous crews, so that when detachments are away, 



256 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

other operations should not be intermitted for want of 
physical strength. 

" As the council of the Royal Society, some time ago, 
thought proper to remind their lordships of the propriety 
of instituting this search, it would be fair now to call on 
that learned body for all the advice and suggestions, 
that science and philosophy can contribute toward the 
accomplishment of the great object on which the eyes 
of all England and indeed of all the world, are now 
entirely fixed." 

Captain Beechey, writing to the Secretary of the Ad- 
miralty, Tth of February, 1850, says : — 

" The urgent nature of the case alone can justify the 
use of ordinary steamers in an icy sea, and great pru- 
dence and judgment will be required on the part of 
their commanders, to avoid being disabled by collision 
and pressure. 

" I would also add, as an exception, that I think Leo- 
pold Island and Cape Walker, if possible, should both 
be examined, prior to any attempt being made to pene- 
trate in other directions from Barrow's Strait, and that 
the bottom of Eegent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands, 
should not be left unexamined. In the memorandum 
submitted to their lordships on the ITth of January, 
1849, this quarter was considered of importance ; and 
I am still of opinion, that, had Sir John Franklin aban- 
doned his vessels near the coast of America, and much 
short of the Mackenzie River, he would have preferred 
the probability of retaining the use of his boats until 
he found relief in Barrow's Strait, to risking an over- 
land journey via the before-mentioned river ; it must 
be remembered, that at the time he sailed. Sir George 
Back's discovery had rendered it very probable that 
Boothia was an island. 

" An objection to the necessity of this search seems 
to be, that had Sir John Franklin taken that route, he 
would have reached Fury Beach already. However, I 
cannot but think there will yet be found some good 
grounds for the Esquimaux sketch, and that their mean- 
ing has been misunderstood ; and as Mr. M'Cormick is 



OPINIONS OF AECTIC ^OYAGEES. 257 

an enterprising person, whose name has already been 
before their lordships, I would submit, whether a boat 
expedition from Leopold Depot, under his direction, 
would not satisfactorily set at rest all inquiry upon this, 
now the only quarter unpi'ovided for." 

Captain Sir W. E. Parry states : — 

"I am decidedly of opinion that the main search 
should be renewed in the direction of Melville Island 
and Banks' Land, including as a part of the plan the 
thorough examination of W ellington Strait and of the 
other similar openings between the islands of the group 
bearing my name. I entertain a growing conviction of 
the probability of the missing ships, or at least a con- 
siderable portion of the crews, being shut up at Mel 
ville Island, Banks' Land, or in that neighborhood, 
agreeing as I do with Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beau- 
fort, in his report read yesterday to the Board that ' Sir 
John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders v/ith 
levity,' which he would be justly chargeable with doing 
if he attached greater weight to any notions he might 
personally entertain than to the Admiralty instructions, 
which he well knew to be founded on the experience of 
former attempts, and on the best information which 
could then be obtained on the subject. For these rea- 
sons I can scarcely doubt that he would employ at least 
two seasons, those of 1845 and 1846, in an unremitting 
attempt to penetrate directly westward or southwestward 
to Behring's Strait. 

" Supposing this conjecture to be correct, nothing can 
be more likely than that Sir John Franklin's ships, hav- 
ing penetrated in seasons of ordinary temperature a 
considerable distance in that direction, nave been locked 
up by successive seasons of extraordinary rigor, thus 
baffling the efforts of their weakened crews to escape 
from the ice in either of the two directions by Behring's 
or Barrow's Straits. 

" And here I cannot but add, that my own conviction 
of this probability — for it is only with probabilities 
that we have to deal — has been greatly strengthened 
by a letter I have lately received from Col. Sabine, of 

17 



258 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

the Royal Artillery, of which I had the honor to sub- 
mit a copy to Sir Francis Baring. Colonel Sabine 
having accompanied two successive expeditions to Baf- 
fin's Bay, including that under my command which 
reached Melville Island, I consider his views to be well 
worthy of their lordships' attention on this part of the 
subject. 

"It must be admitted, however, that considerable 
weight is due to the conjecture which has been offered 
by persons capable of forming a sound judgment, that 
having failed, as I did, in the attempt to penetrate west- 
ward. Sir John Franklin might deem it prudent to re- 
trace his steps, and was enabled to do so, in order to try 
a more northern route, either through Wellington Strait 
or some other of those openings between the Parry 
Islands to which I have already referred. And this idea 
receives no small importance from the fact, (said to be 
beyond a doubt,) of Sir John Franklin having, before 
his departure, expressed such an intention in case of 
failing to the westward. 

" I cannot, therefore, consider the intended search to 
be complete without making the examination of Wel- 
lington Strait and its adjacent openings a distinct part 
of the plan, to be performed by one portion of the 
vessels which I shall presently propose for the main 
expedition. 

" Much stress has likewise been laid, and I think not 
altogether without reason, on the propriety of search- 
ing Jones' and Smith's Sounds in the northwest parts of 
Baffin's Bay. Considerable interest has lately been at- 
tached to Jones' Sound, from the fact of its having been 
recently navigated by at least one enterprising whaler, 
and found to be of great width, free from ice, with a 
swell from the westward, and having no land visible from 
the mast-head in that direction. It seems more than 
probable, therefore, that it may be found to communi- 
cate with Wellington Strait ; so that if Sir John Frank- 
lin's ships have been detained anywhere to the north- 
ward of the Parry Islands, it would be by Jones' Sound 
that he would probably endeavor to effect his escape, 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 259 

rather than by the less direct route of Barrow's Strait. 
I do not myself attach much importance to the idea of 
Sir John Franklin having so far retraced his steps as 
to come back through Lancaster Sound, and recom- 
mence his enterprise by entering Jones' Sound ; but 
the possibility of his attempting his escape through 
this fine opening, and the report, (though somewhat 
vague,) of a cairn of stones seen by one of the whalers 
on a headland within it, seems to me to render it highly 
expedient to set this question at rest by a search in 
this direction, including the examination of Smith's 
Sound also." 

I beg to cite next an extract from the letter of Dr. Sir 
John Kichardson to the Secretary of the Admiralty : — 

^''Haslar Hospital^ Gosport^ ^th of February^ 1850. 

" With respect to the direction in which a successful 
search may be predicated with the most confidence, 
very various opinions have been put forth ; some have 
supposed either that the ships were lost before reaching 
Lancaster Sound, or that Sir John Franklin, finding an 
impassable barrier of ice in the entrance of Lancaster 
Sound, may have sought for a passage through Jones' 
Sound. I do not feel inclined to give much weight to 
either conjecture. "When we consider the strength of 
the Erebus and Terror, calculated to resist the strongest 
pressure to which ships navigating Bafiin's Bay have 
been known to be subject, in conjunction with the fact 
that, of the many whalers which have been crushed or 
abandoned since the commencement of the fishery, the 
crews, or at least the greater part of them, have, in 
almost every case, succeeded in reaching other ships, or 
the Danish settlements, we cannot believe that the two 
discovery ships, which were seen on the edge of the 
middle ice so early as the 26th of July, can have been 
so suddenly and totally overwhelmed as to preclude 
some one of the intelligent officers, whose minds were 
prepared for every emergency, with their select crews 
of men, experienced in the ice, from placing a boat on 
the ice or water, and thus carrying intelligence of the 



260 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

disaster to one of the many whalers which remained for 
two months after that date in those seas, and this in the 
absence of any unusual catastrophe among the fishing 
vessels that season. 

" With respect to Jones' Sound, it is admitted by all 
who are intimately acquainted with Sir John Franklin, 
that his first endeavor would be to act up to the letter 
of his instructions, and that therefore he would not 
lightly abandon the attempt to pass Lancaster Sound. 
From the logs of the whalers year after year, we learn 
that when once they have succeeded in rounding the 
middle ice, they enter Lancaster Sound with facility : 
had Sir John Franklin, then, gained that Sound, and 
from the premises we appear to be fully justified in 
concluding that he did so, and had he afterward en- 
countered a compact field of ice, barring Barrow's 
Strait and "Wellington Sound, he would then, after be- 
ing convinced that he would lose the season in attempt 
ing to bore through it, have borne up for Jones' Sound, 
but not until he had erected a conspicuous landmark, 
and lodged a memorandum of his reason for deviating 
from his instructions. 

"The absence of such a signal-post in Lancaster 
Sound is an argument against the expedition having 
turned back from thence, and is, on the other hand, a 
strong support to the suspicion that Barrow's Strait was 
as open in 1845 as when Sir W. E. Parry first passed 
it in 1819 ; that, such being the case. Sir John Frank- 
lin, without delay and without landing, pushed on to 
Cape Walker, and that, subsequently, in endeavoring 
to penetrate to the southwest, he became involved in 
the drift ice, which, there is reason to believe, urged 
by the prevailing winds and the set of the flood tides, 
is carried toward Coronation Gulf, through channels 
more or less intricate. Should he have found no open- 
ing at Cape Walker, he would, of course, have sought 
one further to the west ; or, finding the southerly and 
westerly opening blocked by ice, he might have tried a 
northern passage. 

" In either case, the plan of search propounded by 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 261 

Sir Francis Beaufort seems to provide against every 
contingency, especially when taken in conjunction with 
Captain Collinson's expedition, via Behring's Strait, 
and the boat parties from the Mackenzie. 

" I do not venture to offer an opinion on the strength 
or equipment of the vessels to be employed, or other 
merely nautical questions, further than by remarking, 
that the use of the small vessels, which forms part of 
Sir Francis Beaufort's scheme, is supported by the suc- 
cess of the early navigators with their very small craft, 
and the late gallant exploit of Mr. Shedden, in round- 
ing Icy Cape and Point Barrow, in the Nancy Dawson 
yacht. 

" And farther, with respect to the comparative merits 
of the paddles and screw in the arctic seas, I beg leave 
merely to observe, that as long as the screw is immersed 
in water it will continue to act, irrespective of the tem 
perature of the air ; but when, as occurs late in the 
autumn, the atmosphere is suddenly cooled below the 
freezing point of sea water, by a northerly gale, while 
the sea itself remains warmer, the paddles will be 
speedily clogged by ice accumulating on the floats as 
they rise through the air in every revolution. An in- 
cident recorded by Sir James C. Ross, furnishes a strik- 
ing illustration of the powerful action of a cold wind ; 
I allude to a fish having been thrown up by the spray 
against the bows of the Terror, and firmly frozen there, 
during a gale in a high southerly latitude. Moreover, 
even with the aid of a ready contrivance for topping 
the paddles, the flatness or hollowness of the sides of a 
paddle steamer renders her less fit for sustaining pres- 
sure ; the machinery is more in the way of oblique 
beams for strengthening, and she is less efiicient as a 
sailing vessel when the steam is let off." 

Memorandum inclosed in Dr. IPCormicT&'s Letter 
of the 1st of January^ 1850. 

" In the month of April last, I laid before my Lords 
Commissioners of the Admiralty a plan of search for 
the missing expedition under the command of Captain 



PEOGBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

Sir John Franklin, by means of a boat expedition up 
Jones' and Smith's Sounds, volunteering myself to 
conduct it. 

" In that plan I stated the reasons which had induced 
me to direct my attention more especially to the open- 
ings at the head of Baffin's Bay, which, at the time, 
were not included within the general scheme of search. 

"Wellington Channel, however, of all the probable 
openings into the Polar Sea, possesses the highest de- 
gree of interest, and the exploration of it is of such 
paramount importance, that I should most unquestion- 
ably have comprised it within my plan of search, had 
not Her Majesty's ships Enterprise and Investigator 
been employed at the time in Barrow's Strait for the 
express purpose of examining this inlet and Cape 
Walker, two of the most essential points of search in 
the whole track of the Erebus and Terror to the west- 
ward ; being those points at the very threshold of his 
enterprise, from which Sir John Franklin would take 
his departure from the known to the unknown, whether 
he shaped a southwesterly course from the latter, or 
attempted the passage in a higher latitude from the 
former point. 

" The return of the sea expedition from Port Leo- 
pold, and the overland one from the Mackenzie Piver, 
both alike unsuccessful in their search, leaves the fate 
of the gallant Franklin and his companions as proble- 
matical as ever ; in fact, the case stands precisely as it 
did two years ago ; the work is yet to be begun ; every 
thing remains to be accomplished. 

"In renewal of the search in the ensuing spring, 
more would be accomplished in boats than in any other 
way, not only by Beh ring's Strait, but from the east- 
ward. For the difficulties attendant on icy navigation 
which form so insuperable a barrier to the progress of 
ships, would be readily surmounted by boats ; by means 
of which the coast line may be closely examined for 
cairns of stones, under which Sir John Franklin would 
most indubitably deposit memorials of his progress 
m all prominent positions, as opportunities might offer. 



OPmiONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 263 

" The discovery of one of these mementos would, in 
iLA probability, afford a clue that might lead to the res- 
cue of our enterprising countrymen, ere another and 
sixth winter close in upon them, should they be still 
in existence ; and the time has not yet arrived for aban- 
doning hope. 

"In renewing once more the offer of my services, 
which I do most cheerfully, I see no reason for chang- 
ing the opinions I entertained last spring ; subsequent 
events have only tended to confirm them. I then be- 
lieved, and I do so still, after a long and mature con- 
sideration of the subject, that Sir John Franklin's ships 
have been arrested in a high latitude, and beset in the 
heavy polar ice northward of the Parry Islands, and 
that their probable course thither has been through the 
Wellington Channel, or one of the sounds at the north- 
ern extremity of Baffin's Bay. 

" This appears to me to be the only view of the case 
that can in any way account for the entire absence of 
all tidings of them throughout so protracted a period 
of time (unless all have perished by some sudden and 
overwhelming catastrophe.) 

"Isolated as their position would be under such cir- 
cumstances, any attempt to reach the continent of 
America at such a distance would be hopeless in the 
extreme : and the mere chance of any party from the 
ships reaching the top of Baffin's Bay at the very mo- 
ment of a whaler's brief and uncertain visit would be 
attended with by far too great a risk to justify the at- 
tempt, for failure would insure inevitable destruction 
to the whole party; therefore their only alternative 
would be to keep together in their ships, should no dig- ' 
aster have happened to them, and by husbanding their 
remaining resources, eke them out with whatever wild 
animals may come within their reach. 

" Had Sir John Franklin been able to shape a south- 
westerly course from Cape Walker, as directed by his 
instructions, the probability is, some intelligence of 
him would have reached this country ere this, (nearly 
five years having already elapsed since his departure 
12 



264 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

from it.) Parties would have been sent out from his 
ships, either in the direction of the coast of America 
or Barrow's Strait, whichever happened to be the most 
accessible. Esquimaux would have been fallen in 
with, and tidings of the long-absent expedition have 
been obtained. 

" Failing in penetrating beyond Cape "Walker, Sir 
John Franklin would have left some notice of his fu- 
ture intentions on that spot, or the nearest accessible 
one to it ; and should he then retrace his course for the 
"Wellington Channel, the most probable conjecture, he 
would not pass up that inlet without depositing a fur- 
ther account of his proceedings, either on the western 
or eastern point of the entrance to it. 

"Therefore, should my proposal meet with their 
Lordships' approbation, I would most respectfully sub- 
mit, that the party I have volunteered to conduct 
should be landed at the entrance to the Wellington 
Channel, or the nearest point attainable by any ship 
that their Lordships may deem fit to employ in a fu- 
ture search, consistently with any other services that 
ship may have to perform ; and should a landing be 
effected on the eastern side, I would propose commenc- 
ing the search from Cape Riley or Beechey Island in 
a northerly direction, carefully examining every re- 
markable headland and indentation of the western 
coast of Korth Devon for memorials of the missing ex- 
pedition ; I would then cross over the "Wellington 
Channel and continue the search along the northern 
shore of Cornwallis Island, extending the exploration 
to the westward as far as the remaining portion of the 
season would permit, so as to secure the retreat of the 
party before the winter set in, returning either by the 
eastern or western side of Cornwallis Island, as cir- 
cumstances might indicate to be the most desirable at 
the time, after ascertaining the general extent and 
trending of the shores of that island. 

"As, however, it would be highly desirable that 
Jones' Sound should not be omitted in the search, more 
especially as a whaler, last season, reached its entrance 



OPlNIOiJS ANB SUGGESTIONS. 265 

and reported it open, I would furiner f »opose, that the 
ship conveying the exploring party out should look into 
this opening on her way to Lancaster Sound, if circum- 
stances permitted of her doing so early in the season ; 
and, if found to be free from ice, the attempt might be 
made by the boat expedition to push through it to the 
westward in this latitude ; and should it prove to be 
an opening into the Polar Sea, of which I think there 
can be little doubt, a great saving of time and distance 
would be accomplished. Failing in this, the ship should 
be secured in some central position in the vicinity of 
the Wellington Channel, as apoint d'^appui to fall back 
upon in the search from that quarter. 

(Signed,) K. M'Cormick, K. K 

" Twickenham, 1st oj January, 1850." 



Outline of a Plan of an Omrland Journey to the 
Polar Sea, hy the Wayjyf the Coppermine River, 
in Search of Sir John FranTdin^s Expedition, sug- 
gested in 1847. 

" If Sir John Franklin, guided by his instructions, 
has passed through Barrow's Strait, and shaped a south- 
westerly course, from the meridian of Cape "W'g-lker, 
with the intention of gaining the northern coast of the 
continent of America, and so passing through the Dol- 
phin and Union Strait, along the shore of that conti- 
nent, to Behring's Strait; 

" His greatest risk of detention by the ice through- 
out this course would be found between the parallels of 
74° and 69° north latitude, and the meridians of 100° 
and 110° west longitude, or, in other words, that por- 
tion of the northwest passage which yet remains unex- 
plored, occupying the space between the western coast 
of Boothia on the one side, and the island or islands 
forming Banks' and Victoria Lands on the other. 

" Should the Erebus and Terror have been beset in 
the heavy drift-ice, or wrecked among it and the bro- 
ken land, which in all probability exists there while 
contending with the prevalent westerly winds in this 
quarter ; 



2b6 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

" The Coppermine Eiver would decidedly offer the 
most direct route and nearest approach to that portion 
of the Polar Sea, and, after crossing Coronation Gulf,, 
the average breadth of the Strait between the Conti 
nent and Yictoria Land is only about twenty-two miles. 

" From this point a careful search should be com- 
menced in the direction of Banks' Land ; the interven- 
ing space between it and Yictoria Land, occupying 
about five degrees, or little more than 300 miles, could, 
I think, be accomplished in one season, and a retreat to 
winter quarters effected before the winter set in. As 
the ice in the Copperaiine River breaks up in June, 
the searching party ought to reach the sea by the be- 
ginning of August, which would leave two of the best 
months of the year for exploring the Polar Sea, viz ; 
August and September. 

" As it would be highly desirable that every available 
day, to the latest period of the season, should be de- 
voted to the search, I should propose wintering on the 
coast in the vicinity of the mouth of the Coppermine 
River, which would also afford a favorable position 
from which to recommence the search in the following 
spring, should the first season prove unsuccessful. 

" Of course the object of such an expedition as I have 
proposed is not with the view of taking supplies to such 
a numerous party as Sir John Franklin has under his 
command ; but to find out his position, and acquaint 
him where a depot of provisions would be stored up 
for himself and crews at my proposed winter quarters, 
where a party should be left to build a house, establish 
a fishery, and hunt for game, during the absence of the 
searching party. 

" To carry out this plan efficiently, the Hudson's Bay 
Company should be requested to lend their powerful 
cooperation in furnishing guides, supplies of pemmican, 
&c., for the party on their route and at winter quarters. 
Without entering into details here, I may observe, that 
I should consider one boat, combining the necessary 
requisites in her construction to fit her for either the 
river navigation, or that of the shores of the Polar Sea, 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 267 

would be quite sufficient, with a crew one half sailors, 
and the other half Canadian boatmen ; the latter to be 
engaged at Montreal, for which place I would propose 
leaving England in the month of Febrnarj. 

" Should such an expedition even fail in its main ob- 
ject — the discovery of the position of the missing ships 
and their crews, the long-sought-for polar passage may 
be accomplished. 

(Signed,) E. M'Cokmick:, K. E". 

« Woolwich, 1847." 



Co^]/ of a Letter from Lieutenant Sherard shorn to 
the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, 

" Ealing, Middlesex, 4:th Jamcary, 1850. 

" My Lokds, — A second attempt to reach Sir John 
Franklin's expedition being about to be tried during 
the present year, I take the liberty of calling your at- 
tention to the inclosed proposition for an overland party 
to be dispatched to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a 
view to their traversing the short distance between Cape 
Bathurst and Banks' Land. My reasons for thus tres- 
passing on your attention are as follows ; 

" 1st. General opinion places the lost expedition to 
the west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of 
Melville Island. 

" The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land 
is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be 
seen that nowhere else does the American continent 
approach so near to the supposed position of Franklin's 
expedition. 

" 2d. As a starting point. Cape Bathurst offers great 
advantages ; the arrival of a party sent there from 
England may be calculated upon to a day ; whereas 
the arrival of Captain Collinson in the longitude of 
Cape Barrow, or that of an eastern expedition in Lan- 
caster Sound, will depend upon many uncontrollable 
contingencies. The distance to be performed is com- 
paratively little, and the certainty of being able to fall 
back upon supplies offers great advantages. Captain 



PEOCJEESS OF AECTIC DKOOVKRT. 

CoUinson will have 680 miles of longitude to traverse 
between Cape Barrow and Banks' Land. An Eastern 
Expedition, if opposed by the ice, (as Sir James Ross 
has been,) and unable to proceed in their vessels farther 
than Leopold Harbor, will have to journey on foot 330 
miles to reach the longitude of Banks' Land, and if 
any accident occur to their vessels, they will be in as 
critical a position as those they go to seek. 

" 3d. Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst N. 41° 
49' E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in 
the summer season a portion of this distance may be 
traversed in boats. 

" 4th and 5th. Dr. Eichardson confirms previous re- 
ports of the ice being light on the coast east of the 
Mackenzie River to Cape Bathurst, and informs us 
that the Esquimaux had seen no ice to seaward for two 
moons. 

" 6th. Every mile traversed northward by a party 
fi'om Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space 
in which traces of Franklin may be expected. 

" 7th. It is advisable that such a second party be 
dispatched from Cape Bathurst, in order that the pros- 
ecution of Dr. Rae's examination of the supposed chan- 
nel between Wollaston and Victoria Lands may in no 
way be interfered with by his attention being called to 
the westward. 

"8th. The caches of provisions made at different 
points of the Mackenzie and at Cape Bathurst, would 
enable a party to push down to their starting point with 
great celerity directly the River Mackenzie opens, 
which may be as early as May. 

" I would also remind your Lordships that the pro- 
posed expedition would carry into execution a very im- 
portant clause in the instructions given to Sir James 
Ross ; viz : that of sending exploring parties from 
Banks' Land in a southwesterly direction toward Cape 
Bathurst or Cape Parry. 

" In conclusion, I beg to offer my willing services to- 
ward the execution of the proposed plan ; and seeking 
it from no selfish motives, but thoroughly impressed 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 269 

with its feasibility, you may rest assured, my lords, 
should I have the honor of being sent upon this service, 
that I shall not disappoint your expectations. 
"I have, &c., 
(Signed,) " Shekakd Osbokn, Lieut., E. ]^." 



Co^y of a Letter from Colonel Sabine^ B. A., to Cap- 
tain Sir W. Edward Parry. 

" Castle-down Terrace^ Hastings, 
" l^th of January, 1850. 
" There can be little doubt, I imagine, in the miud of 
any one who has read attentively Franklin's instruc- 
tions, and, (in reference to them,) your description of 
the state of the ice and of the navigable water in 1819 
and 1820, in the route which he was ordered to pursue; 
still less, I think, can there be a doubt in the mind of 
any one who had the advantage of being with you in 
tho§e years, that Franklin, (always supposing no pre- 
vious disaster,) must have made his way to the south- 
west part of Melville Island either in 1845 or 1846. It 
has been said that 1845 was an unfavorable season, and 
as the navigation of Davis' Strait and Baffin-s Bay was 
new to Franklin, we may regard it as more probable 
that it may have taken him two seasons to accomplish 
what we accomplished in one. So far, I think, guided 
by his instructions and by the experience gained in 
1819 and 1820, we may reckon pretty confidently on 
the first stage of his proceedings, and doubtless, in his 
progress he would have left memorials in the uiual 
manner at places where he may have landed, some of 
which would be likely to fall in the way of a vessel fol- 
lowing in his track. From the west end of Melville 
Island our inferences as to his further proceedings must 
become more conjectural, being contingent on thf; state 
of the ice and the existence of navigable water in the 
particular season. If he found the ocean, as we did, 
covered to the west and south, as far as the eye could 
reach from the summit of the highest hills, with ice of 
a thickness unparalleled in any other part of the Polai 



270 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

Sea, he would, after probably waiting through one whole 
season in the hope of some favorable change, have re- 
traced his steps, in obedience to the second part of his 
instructions, in order to seek an opening to the north 
which might conduct to a more open sea. In this case 
some memorial of the season passed by him at the 
southwest end of Melville Island, and also of his pur- 
pose of retracing his steps, would doubtless have been 
left by him ; and should he subsequently have found 
an opening to the north, presenting a favorable appear- 
ance, there also, should circumstances have permitted, 
would a memorial have been left. 

" lie may, however, have found a more favorable 
state of things at the southwest end of Melville Island 
than we did, and may have been led thereby to at- 
tempt to force a passage for his ships in the direct line 
of Behring's Strait, or perhaps, in the first instance, to 
the south of that direction, namely, to Banks' Land 
In such case two contingencies present themselves • 
first, that in the season of navigation of 1847 he may 
have made so much progress, that in 1848 he may have 
preferred the endeavor to push through to Behring's 
Strait, or to some western part of the continent, to an 
attempt to return by the way of Barrow's Strait ; the 
mission of the Plover, the Enterprise, and the Inves- 
tigator together with Dr. Kae's expedition, supply, 1 
presume, (for I am but partially acquainted with their 
instructions,) the most judicious means of affording re- 
lief in this direction. There is, however, a second con- 
tingency ; and it is the one which the impression left 
on my mind by the nature and general aspect of the 
ice in the twelve months which we ourselves passed at 
the southwest end of Melville Island, compels me, in 
spite of my wishes, to regard as the more probable, 
viz., that his advance from Melville Island in the sea- 
son of 1847 may have been limited to a distance of 
fifty, or perhaps one hundred miles at farthest, and 
that in 1848 he may have endeavored to retrace his 
steps, but only with partial success. It is, I apprehend, 
quite a conceivable case, that under these circumstances, 



\ 
- OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 271 

incapable of extricating the ships from the ice, the 
crews may have been, at length, obliged to quit them, 
and attempt a retreat, not toward the continent, because 
too distant, but to Melville Island, where certainly 
food, and probably fuel (seals,) might be obtained, and 
where they would naturally suppose that vessels dis- 
patched from England for their relief would, in the 
first instance, seek them. It is quite conceivable also, 
I apprehend, that the circumstances might be such 
that their retreat may have been made without their 
boats, and probably in the April or May of 1849. 

"Where the Esquimaux have lived, there Englishmen 
may live, and no valid argument against the attempt 
to relieve can, I think, be founded on the improbability 
of finding Englishmen alive in 1850, who may have 
made a retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ; 
nor would the view of the case be altered in any ma- 
terial degree, if we suppose their retreat to have been 
made in 1848 or 1849 to Banks' Land, which may 
afibrd facilities of food and fuel equal or superior to 
Melville Island, and a further retreat in the following 
year to the latter island as the point at which they 
would more probably look out for succor. 

" Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts 
made in other directions, I retain my original opinion, 
which seems also to have been the opinion of the 
Board of Admiralty, by which Ross's instructions were 
drawn up, that the most promising direction for re- 
search would be taken by a vessel which should follow 
them to the southwest point of Melville Island, be pre- 
pared to winter there, and, if necessary, to send a 
party across the ice in April or May to examine Banks' 
Land, a distance (there and back) less than recently 
accomplished by E-oss in his land journey. 

"I learn from Koss's dispatches, that almost imme- 
diately after he got out of Port Leopold (1849,) he was 
entangled in apparently interminable fields and floes 
of ice, with which, in the course of the summer, he 
was drifted down through Barrow's Strait and Baffin's 
Bay nearly to Davis' Strait. It is reasonable to pre- 
12* 



272 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

sume, therefore, that the localities from whence this 
ice drifted are likely to be less encumbered than usual 
by accumulated ice in 1850. It is, of course, of the 
highest importance to reach Barrow's Strait at' the ear- 
liest possible period of the season ; and, connected with 
this point I learn from Captain Bird, whom I had the 
pleasure of seeing here a few days ago, a very remark- 
able fact, that the ice which prevented their crossing 
Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73° of latitude (as we did in 
1819, arriving in Barrow's Strait a month earlier than 
we had done the preceding year, when we went round 
by Melville Bay, and nearly a month earlier than Ross 
did last year) was young ice, which had formed in the 
remarkably calm summer of last year, and which the 
absence of wind prevented their forcing a passage 
through, on the one hand, while on the other, the ice 
was not heavy enough for ice anchors. It was, he said, 
not more than two or two and a half feet thick, and ob- 
viously of very recent formation. There must, there- 
fore, have been an earlier period of the season when 
this part of the sea must have been free from ice ; and 
this comes in confirmation of a circumstance of which 
I was informed "by Mr. Petersen (a Danish gentleman 
sent to England some months ago by the Northern So- 
ciety of Antiquaries of Copenhagen, to make extracts 
from books and manuscripts in the British Museum,) 
that the Northmen, who had settlements some centu- 
ries ago on the west coast of Greenland, were in the 
habit of crossing Baffin's Bay in the latitude of Uper- 
navic in the spring of the year, for the purpose of nsh- 
ing in Barrow's Strait, from whence they returned in 
August ; and that in the early months they generally 
found the passage across free from ice. 

" In the preceding remarks, I have left one contin- 
gency unconsidered ; it is that which would have fol- 
lowed in pursuance of his instructions, if Franklin should 
have found the aspect of the ice too unfavorable to the 
west and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a 
passage through it, and should have retraced his steps 
m hopes of finding a more open sea to the northward, 



OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 273 

wither in "Wellington Strait or elsewhere. It is quite 
conceivable that here also the expedition may have en- 
countered, at no very great distance, insuperable diffi- 
culties to their advance, and may have failed in accom- 
plishing a return vrith their ships. In this case, the 
retreat of the crews, supposing it to have been made 
across land or ice, would most probably be directed to 
some part of the coast on the route to Melville Island, 
on which route they would, without doubt, expect that 
succor would be attempted." 

Mr. Robert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. H. D. Good- 
eir, the assistant-surgeon of Sir John Franklin's ship, 
the Erebus, left Stromness, as 'surgeon of the Advice, 
whaler, Capt. Penny, on the 17th of March, 1849, in 
the hopes of gaining some tidings of his brother ; but 
returned unsuccessful after an eight months' voyage. 
He has, however, published a very interesting little 
narrative of the icy regions and of his arctic voyage. 

In a letter to Lady Franklin, dated Edinburgh, 18th 
of January, 1850, he says : — " I trust you are not allow- 
ing yourself to become over-anxious. I know that, 
although there is much cause to be so, there is still not 
the slightest reason that we should despair. It may be 
presumptuous in me to say so, but I have never for a 
moment doubted as to their ultimate safe return, having 
always had a sort of presentiment that I would meet my 
brother and his companions somewhere in the regions 
in which their adventures are taking place. This hope 
I have not yet given up, and I trust that by next sum- 
mer it may be fulfilled, when an end will be put to the 
suspense which has lasted so long, and which must have 
tried you so much." 

The arctic regions, far from being so destitute of ani- 
mal life as might be supposed from the bleak and inhos- 
pitable character of the climate, are proverbial for the 
boundless profusion of various species of the animal 
kingdom, which are to be met with in different locali- 
ties during a great part of the year. 

The air is often darkened by innumerable flocks of 
arctic and blue gulls, {Lestris Parasiticus, and Larus 

18 



274 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

glaucus^ tlie ivory gull or snow-bird, {Larus eburnetts^ 
the kittiwake, the fulmar or petrel, snow geese, terns, 
coons, dovekies, &c. The cetaceous animals comprise 
the great Greenland whale, (Bologna mysticetus^ the 
sea unicorn or narwhal, {Monodon monoceros^ the 
white whale or beluga, {Delphinus leucos^ the morse 
or walrus, {Trichecus rosmarus^ and the seal. There 
are also plenty of porpoises occasionally to be met with, 
and although these animals may not be the best of food, 
yet they can be eaten. Of the land animals I may in- 
stance the polar bear, the musk-ox, the reindeer, the 
arctic fox and wolves. 

Parry obtained nearly 40001bs. weight of animal food 
during his winter residence at Melville Island ; Ross 
nearly the same quantity from birds alone when winter- 
ing at Port Leopold. 

In 1719, the crews of two Hudson's Bay vessels, the 
Albany and Discovery, a ship and sloop, under the 
command of Mr, Barlow and Mr. Knight, were cast on 
shore on Marble Island, and it was subsequently ascer- 
tained that some of the party supj)orted life for nearly 
three years. Mr. Hearne learned the particulars from 
some of the Esquimaux in 1729. The ship it appeared 
went on shore in the fall of 1719 ; the party being then 
in number about fifty, began to build their house for 
the winter. As soon as the ice permitted in the follow- 
ing summer the Esquimaux paid them another visit, and 
found the number of sailors much reduced, and very 
unhealthy. 

Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among 
them that by the setting in of the second winter, their 
number was reduced to twenty. Some of the Esqui- 
maux took up their abode at this period on the opposite 
side of the harbor, and supplied them with what provis- 
ions they could spare in the shape of blubber, seal's 
flesh, and train oil. 

The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the 
spring, and on revisiting the island in the summer of 
1721, only five of the crews were found alive, and these 
were so ravenous for food, that they devoured the blub- 



ABUITOANCE OF AmMAL FOOD MET WITH. 275 

ber and seal's flesh raw, as they purchased it of the 
natives, which proved so injurious in their weak state, 
that three of them died in a few days* The two sur- 
vivors, though very weak, managed to bury their com- 
rades, and protracted their existence for some days 
longer. 

"They frequently," in the words of the narrative, 
•'went to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly 
looked to the south and east, as if in expectation of some 
vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there 
a considerable time, and nothing appearing in sight, 
they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At 
length one of the two died, and the other's strength was 
so far exhausted, that he fell down and died also in 
attempting to dig a grave for his companion. The skulls 
and other large bones of these two men are now lying 
above ground close to the house." 

Sir John Richardson, speaking of the amount of food 
to be obtained in the polar region, says, "Deer migrate 
over the ice in the spring from the main shore to Vic- 
toria and Wollaston Lands in large herds, and return in 
the autumn. These lands are also the breeding places 
of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that with ordinary 
skill in hunting, a large supply of food might be pro- 
cured on their shores,*in the months of June, July, and 
August. Seals are also numerous in those seas, and 
are easily shot, their curiosity rendering them a ready 
prey to a boat party." In these ways and by fishing, 
the stock of provisions might be greatly augmented — 
and we have the recent example of Mr. Rae, who 
passed a severe winter on the very barren shores of 
Kepulse Bay, with no other fuel than the withered tufts 
of a herbaceous andromada, and maintained a numer- 
ous party on the spoils of the chase alone for a whole 
year. Such instances, forbid us to lose hope. Should 
Sir John Franklin's provisions become so far inade- 
quate to a winter's consumption, it is not likely that he 
would remain longer by his ships, but rather that in 
one body, or in several, the officers and crews, with 
boats cut down so as to be light enough to drag over 



276 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCCVEBT. 

the ice, or built expressly for that purpose, would en- 
deavor to make their way eastward to Lancaster Sound/ 
or southward to the main-land, according to the longi^ 
tude in which the ships were arrested. 

"We ought not to judge of the supplies of food that 
can be procured in the arctic regions by diligent hunt- 
ing, from the quantities that have been actually ob- 
tained on the several expeditions that have returned, 
and consequently of the means of preserving life there. 
When there was abimdance in the ships, the address 
and energy of the hunting parties was not likely to be 
called forth, as they would inevitably be when the exis- 
tence of the crews depended solely on their personal 
efforts, and formed their chief or only object in their 
march toward quarters where relief might be looked 
for. This remark has reference to the supposition that 
on the failure of the stock of provisions in the ships, 
the crews would, in separate parties under their officers, 
seek for succor in several directions. 

With an empty stomach, the power of resisting exter- 
nal cold is greatly impaired ; but when the process of 
digesting is going on vigorously, even with compara- 
tively scanty clothing, the heat of the body is preserved. 
There is in the winter time, in high latitudes, a craving 
for fat or oleaginous food, and for such occasions the 
flesh of seals, walruses, or bears, forms a useful article 
of diet. Captain Cook says that the walrus is a sweet 
and wholesome article of food. Whales and seals would 
also furnish light and fuel. The necessity for increased 
food in very cold weather, is not so great when the 
people do not work. 

Mr. Gilpin, in his narrative in the Kautical Maga- 
zine for March, 1850, writes thus : — 

"About the 20th of June a small water bird, called 
the doveky, had become so numerous, and so many 
were daily shot by those who troubled themselves to go 
after them, that shooting parties from each ship, con- 
sisting of an officer and marine, were established at 
Whaler Point, where they remained the whole week, 
returning on board on Saturday night. In a week or 



ABUNDANCE OF ANIMAL FOOD MET WITH. 277 

SO after this the coon, a much heavier bird, became 
more plentiful than the little doveky, and from this 
time to the middle of August, so successful and untir- 
ing were our sportsmen, that the crew received each a 
bird per man a day. 

" The account kept on board the Investigator showed 
the number of birds killed to have amounted to about 
4000, and yielding near 25001bs. of meat. But more 
than this was obtamed, as many were shot by individ- 
uals for amusement, and not always noted." 

Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on 
her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 1849, 
speaking of landing on one of the Wollaston Islands, on 
the west side of IS avy Board Inlet, says ho disturbed 
about half a dozen pairs of the eider-duck {Somateria 
Tnollissima.) Their eggs he found to be within a few 
hours of maturity. There were, besides, numerous nests, 
the occupants of which had probably winged their way 
southward. ' Two brent geese, {Anser hernicla^ and a 
single pair of arctic terns, {Stefna arctica^) were most 
vociferous and courageous in defense of their downy 
offspring wherever he approached. These were the 
only birds he saw, with the exception of a solitary ra- 
ven, (Corvus cor ax,) not very high overhead, whose 
sharp and yet musically bell-like croak came startling 
upon the ear. 

Mr. Snow, in his account of the voyage of the Prince 
Albert, p. 162, says, (speaking of Melville Bay, at the 
northern head of Baffin's Bay,) " Innumerable quanti- 
ties of birds, especially the little auir, (Alca alle,) and 
the doveky, {Coly7/ihiis grylle.) v,^3rc now seen, (Au- 
gust 6th,) in every direction. They wer^ to be ob- 
served in thousands, on the wing a'ld in the water, 
and often on pieces of ice, where they were clustered 
together so thick that scores might have been shot at a 
time by two or three fowling pieces." 

In passing up Lancaster Sound a fortiiiglit later sev- 
eral shoal of eider-ducks and large quantities of oth<ir 
birds were also seen. 



878 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

A BALLAD OF SIR JOHN" FRANKLIK 

" The ice was here, the ice was there, 
The ice was all around." — Coleridge. 

"Whither sail you, Sir John Franklin ? 

Cried a whaler in Baffin's Bay ; 
To know if between the land and the Polc^ 

I may find a broad sea-way. 

I charge you back. Sir John Franklin, 
As you- would live and thrive. 

For between the land and the frozen Pol» 
Ko man may sail alive. 

But lightly laughed the stout Sir Jolic, 

And spoke unto his men : — 
Half England is wrong, if he is right ; 

Bear off to westward then. 

0, whither sail you, brave Englishman T 

Cried the little Esquimaux. 
Between your land and the polar star 

My goodly vessels go. 

Come down, if you would journey there/ 

The little Indian said ; 
And change your cloth for fur clothing. 

Your vessel for a slcjd. 

But lightly laughed the stout Sir John, 
And the crew laughed with him too ; 

A sailor to change from ship to sled, 
I ween, were something new 1 

All through the long, long polar day. 

The vessels westward sped ; 
And wherever the sail of Sir John was blown. 

The ice gave way and fled 

Gave way with many a hollow groan, / 

And with many a surly roar ; 
But it murmured end tm eaten e<.l on every aci*, 

And closed where he sailsd b<^foia 

' Ho I See Te r.ot my merry m£n, 

Th* r. ".(I PHri oper sev T 
Betnin< y*- vrlsat tne whn'er snid, 
Bc.hink je o*" tLc little IntJMr's elcd! 

The crow laugheci ort in 5!^. 

Sir John, Sir John, 'tis bitter cold, 
The scud drives on th»j breeze. 

fhe ice comes looming from the north, 
The veiy sunbeams freeze. 

tright summer goes, dark winter comeis — 

We cannot rule the year ; 
v-ut long ere summer's sun goes down, 

On yonder sea we '11 steei: 



A BALLAD OF SIE JOHN FEANBXDT. 279 

The dripping icebergs dipped and ros^ 

And floundered down the gale ; 
The ships were staid, the yards were manned. 

And furled the useless sail. 

The summer 's gone, the winter *8 come. 

We sail not on yonder sea ; 
Why sail we not, Su- John Franklin ? 

— A silent man was he. 

The winter goes, the summer comes. 

We cannot rule the year ; 
I ween, we cannot rule the ways. 

Sir John, wherein we 'd steer. 

The cruel ice came floating on. 

And closed beneath the lee. 
Till the thickening waters dashed no more, 
'T was ice around, behind, before — 

My God ! there is no sea ! 

What think you of the whaler now ! 

What of the Esquimaux ? 
A sled were better than a ship, 

To cruise through ice and snow. 

Down sank the baleful crimson sun ; 

The northern -light came out. 
And glared upon the ice-bound ships, 

And shook its spears about. 

The snow came down, stoi-m breeding stoma. 

And on the decks was laid ; 
Till the weary sailor, sick at heart. 

Sank down beside his spade. 

Sir John, the night is black and long. 

The hissing wind is bleak ; 
The hard, gi-een ice is sti'ong as death : — 

I prithee, captain, speak. 

The night is neither bright nor short, 

The singing breeze is cold, 
The ice is not so strong as hope. 

The heart of man is bold 1 

What hope can scale this icy wall. 

High o'er the main flag-staff ? 
Above the ridges the wolf and bear 
Look down with a patient, settled stare — 

Look down on us and laugh. 

The summer went, the winter came- 

Yife could not rule the year ; 
But summer will melt the ice again, 
And open a path to the sunny main, 

Whereon our ships shall steer. 



280 PROGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

The \rinter -went, tie summer went. 

The winter came around ; 
But the hard, green ice was strong as death. 
And the voice of hope sank to a breath. 

Yet caught at eveiy sound. 

Hark ! heard you not the sound of guns ? 

And there, and there again ? 
'T is some uneasy iceberg*s roar. 

As he turns in the frozen main. 

HuiTa ! hurra ! the Esquimaux 

Across the ice-fields steal : 
God give them grace for their charity I 

Ye pray for the silly seal 

Sir John, where are the English fields^ 
And where the English trees, 

And where are the little English flowers. 
That open in the breeze ? 

Be still, be stiU, my brave sailors I 
You shall see the fields again. 

And smell the scent of the opening flowery 
The grass, and the waving grain. 

Oh ! when shall I see my orphan child ? 

My Mary waits fbr me ; 
Oh ! when shall I see my old mother. 

And pray at her trembling knee ? 

Be still, be still, my brave sailors ! 

Think not such thoughts again ! 
But a tear froze slowly on his cheek — 

He thought of Lady Jane. 

Ah ! bitter, bitter grows the cold. 
The ice grows more and more ; 

More settled stare the wolf and bear. 
More patient than before. 

Oh ! think you, good Sir John Franklin, 

We '11 ever see the land ? 
*T was cruel to send us here to starve. 

Without a kelping hand. 

*T was cruel, Sir John, to send us here. 

So far from help or home ; 
To starve and freeze on this lonely sea ; 
I ween, the Lords of the Admiralty 

Had rather send than come. 



f 



Oh ! whether we starve to death alone, 

Or sail to our own country. 
We have done what man has never done , 

The open ocean danced in the sun — I 

We passed the Northern Sea ! I 



THE SEAECHIKQ EXPEDITIONS. 281 

Tee Government and Private SEAncHnsrG Expeditions 
AFTER Sir John Franklin. 

The following is a complete list of the several relief 
and exploring vessels which have been sent out during 
the last two years by the British government, by private 
individuals, and by the American nation : — 

Ships. Men, Commanders. 

1. H. M. S. Enterprise - - 68 Capt. CoUinson. 

2. H. M. S. Investigator- - 65 Com. M'Clure. 
8. H. M. S. Plover - - - 52 Com. Moore. 

4. H. M. S. Kesolute - - - 68 Capt. H. Austin. 

5. H. M. S. Assistance - - 60 Capt. E. Ommaney. 

6. H. M. S. Intrepid, (screw 

steamer,) 30 Lieut. S. Osborn. 

7. H. M. S. Intrepid, (screw 

steamer,) 38 . Lieut. Cator. 

8. The Lady Franklin - - 25 Mr. Penny. 

9. The Sophia, (a tender to 

the above,) 22 Mr. Stewart. 

10. United States brig Ad- 
vance 20 Lieut. De Haven. 

11. United States vessel Res- 

cue 18 Mr. S. P. Griffin. 

12. Felix yacht Capt. Sir John Eoss. 

13. Mary, (tender to the Felix.) 

14. The JSTorth Star, Master and Commander Saunders. 

15. The Prince Albert - - . 18 Com. Forsyth. 

Of these vessels the Enterprise, Investigator, and 
Plover, are at present engaged on the western branch 
of search through Behring's Straits. The rest have all 
proceeded through Baffin's Bay to Lancaster Sound, and 
the channels branching out from thence, except the last 
two, which have returned home. 

YOYAGE OF THE " EnTERPRISE" AND " InVESTIGATOr" 

UNDER Captain Sir James C. Ross, 1848-49. 
In the spring of 1848, Captain Sir James C.Ross 
was placed in command of a weU found and fitted ex- 
pedition, with means and advantages of unusual extent, 



282 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

and with an object that coiild not fail to stimulate in 
the highest degree the energies and perseverance of all 
embarked in it. "With the ever present feeling, too, that 
the lives of their countrymen and brother sailors de- 
pended, (under God's good providence,) upon their 
unflinching exertions, Captain Ross and his followers 
went forth in the confident hope that their efforts might 
be crowned with success. 

The season was considerably advanced before tie 
whole of the arrangements were completed, for it was 
not until the 12th of June, 1848, that Captain Ross left 
England, having under his charge the Enterprise and 
Investigator, with the following officers and crews : — 

Enterprise^ 540 tons. 
Captain — Sir James C. Ross. 
Lieutenants — R. J. L. M'Clure, F. L. McClintock, 

and W. H. J. Browne. 
Master — W. S. Couldery, (acting.) 
Surgeon — W. Robertson, (J) M. D. 
Assistant-Surgeon — H. Matthias. 
Clerk — Edward Whitehead. 

Total complement, 68. 

Investigator^ 480 tons. 
Captain — E. J. Bird. 
Lieutenants — M. G. H. "W. Ross, Frederick Robinson 

and J. J. Barnard. 
Master — W. Tatham. 
Surgeon — Robert Anderson. 
Mates — L. J. Moore and S. G. Cresswell. 
Second Master — John H. Allard. 
Assistant-Surgeon — E. Adams. 
Clerk in Charge — James D. Gilpin. 
Total complement, 67. 

The ships reached the Danish settlement of TJpper- 
navick, situated on one of the group of Woman's Islands 
on the western shore of Baffin's Bay, on the 6th of 
July. Running through this intricate^archipelago, they 



VOYAGE OF ENTEEPKISE AND INVESTIGATOR. 283 

were made fast, on the 20th, to an iceberg aground off 
Cape Shackleton. The ships were towed, during tho 
next few days, through loose streams of ice, and on the 
morning of the 26th were off the three islands of Baffin 
in latitude 74° N. Calms and light winds so greatly 
impeded any movement in the pack, that day aftei 
day passed away until the season had so far advanced 
as to preclude every hope of accomplishing much, if 
any thing, before the setting in of winter. 

J^o exertions, however, were spared to take advantage 
of every opportunity of pushing forward, until, on the 
20th of August, during a heavy breeze from the north- 
east, the ships under all sail bored through a pack of ice 
of but moderate thickness, but having among it heavy 
masses, through which it was necessary to drive them at 
all hazards. The shocks the ships sustained during this 
severe trial were great, but fortunately without serious 
damage to them. Getting into clear water in lat. 75 h JST., 
and long. 68° "W., on the 23d the ships stood in to 
Pond's Bay, but no traces of Esquimaux or other human 
beings were discovered, although signals were made and 
guns fired at repeated intervals. The ships were kept 
close to the land, and a rigid examination made of the 
coast to the northward, so that neither people nor boats 
could have passed without being seen. On the 26th 
the ships arrived oft' Possession Bay, and a party was 
sent on shore to search for any traces of the expedition 
having touched at this general point of rendezvous. 
Iv^othing was found but the paper left there recording 
the visit of Sir Edward Parry, on the very day (August 
30th) in 1819. Erom this point the examination of the 
coast was continued with equal care. On the 1st of 
September they arrived off Cape York, and a boat'^ 
crew was sent on shore, to fix a conspicuous mark, and 
leave information for the guidance of any future party 
that might touch here. 

I shall now take up the narrative in Sir James Eoss's 
own words — " We stood over toward northeast cape 
until we came in with the edge of a pack, too dense for 
us to penetrate, lying between us and Leopold Island, 



5584 PEOGBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

about fourteen miles broad ; we therefore coasted the 
north shore of Barrow's Strait, to seek a harbor further 
to the westward, and to examine the numerous inlets of 
that shore. Maxwell Bay, and several smaller indenta- 
tions, were thoroughly explored, and, although we got 
near the entrance of Wellington Channel, the firm bar- 
rier of ice which stretched across it, and which had not 
broken away this season, convinced us all was imprac- 
ticable in that direction. We now stood to the south- 
west to seek for a harbor near Cape Rennell, but found 
a heavy body of ice extending from the west of Corn- 
wallis Island in a compact mass to Leopold Island. 
Coasting along the pack during stormy and foggy 
weather, we had difiiculty in keeping the ships free 
during the nights, for I believe so great a quantity of ice 
was never before seen in Barrow's Strait at this period 
of the season." 

Fortunately, after some days of anxious and arduous 
work, the ships were got through the pack, and secured 
in the harbor of Port Leopold on the 11th of September. 
No situation could be better adapted for the purpose 
than this locality ; being at the junction of the four 

freat channels of Barrow's Strait, Lancaster Sound, 
^rince Eegent Inlet, and Wellington Channel, it was 
hardly possible for any party, after abandoning their 
ships, to pass along the shores of any of those inlets, 
without finding indications of the proximity of these ' 
fihips. 

The night following the vewy day of the ships' getting 
in, the main pack closed with the land, and completely 
sealed the mouth of the harbor. The long winter was 
passed in exploring and surveying journeys along the 
coasts in all directions. During the winter as many as 
fifty white foxes were taken alive, in traps made of 
empty casks set for the purpose. As it was well known 
how large a tract of country these animals traverse in 
search of food, copper collars, (upon which a notice of 
the position of the ships and depots of provisions was 
engraved,) were clinched round their necks, and they 
were then set free, in the hope that some of these four- 



TOYAGS OF ENTEEPEISE AND IKVESTIQATOE. 285 

/ttjuied messengers might be the means of conreying the 
intelligence to the Erebus and Terror, as the crews of 
those vessels would naturally be eager for their capture. 
The months of April and May were occupied by Capt. 
Koss, Lieut. McClintock, and a party of twelve men, in 
examining and thoroughly exploring all the inlets and 
smaller indentations of the northern and western coasts 
of Boothia peninsula, in Which any ships might have 
found shelter. 

From the high land iti the neighborhood of Cape 
Bunny ) Capt. Ross obtained a very extensive view, and 
observed that the whole space between it and Cape 
Walker to the west, and Wellington Strait to the north, 
was occupied by very heavy hummocky ice. 

" The examination of the coast," Sir James Eoss tells 
us, " was pursued until the 5th of June, when, having 
consumed more than half our provisions, and the strength 
of the party being much reduced, I was reluctantly 
compelled to abandon further operations, as it was, 
moreover^ necessary to give the men a day of rest. 
But that the time might not wholly be lost, I proceeded 
with two hands to the extreme south point in sight from 
our encampment, distant about eight or nine miles." 

This extreme point is situate in lat. 72° 38' E"., and 
long. 95° 40' W., and is the west face of a small high 
peninsula. The state of the atmosphere being at the 
time peculiarly favorable for distinctness of vision, land 
of any great elevation might have been seen at the dis- 
tance of 100 miles. The highest cape of the coast was 
not more than fifty miles distant, bearing nearly due 
south. A very narrow isthmus was found to separate 
Prince Regent Inlet from the western sea at Cresswell 
and Brentford Bays. The ice in this quarter proved to 
be eight feet thick. A large cairn of stones was erected, 
and on the 6th of June, the return journey was com- 
menced. After encountering a variety of difficulties 
they reached the ships on the 23d, so completely worn 
out by fatigue, that every man was, from some cause or 
other, in the doctor's hands for two or three weeks. 
During their absence, Mr. Matthias, the assistant-surgeon 
13 



286 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

of the Enterprise, had died of consumption. Several of 
the crews of both ships Were in a declining state, and 
the general report of health was by no means cheering. 

While Captain Ross was away, Commander Bird 
had dispatched other surveying parties in different di- 
rections. One, under the command of Lieutenant Bar- 
nard, to the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, crossing 
the ice to Cape Hind ; a second, commanded by Lieu- 
tenant Browne, to the eastern shore of Regent Inlet ; 
and a third party of six men, conducted by Lieutenant 
Robinson, along the western shore of the Lilet. The 
latter officer extended his examination of the coast as 
far as Cress well Bay, several miles to the southward 
of Fury Beach. He found the house still standing in 
which Sir John Ross passed the winters of 1832-33, 
together with a quantity of the stores and provisions 
ofthe Fury, lost there in 1827. On opening some of 
the packages containing flour, sugar and peas, they 
were all found to be in excellent preservation, and the 
preserved soup as good as when manufactured. The 
labors of these searching parties were, however, of 
comparatively short duration, as they all suffered from 
snow-blindness, sprained ankles, and debility. 

As it was now but too evident, from no traces of the 
absent expedition having been met with by any of 
these parties, that the ships could not have been de- 
tained anywhere in this part of the arctic regions, 
Captain Ross considered it most desirable to push for- 
ward to the westward as soon as his ships should be lib- 
erated. His chief hopes now centered in the efforts of 
Sir John Richardson's party; but he felt persuaded 
that S:? John Franklin's ships must have penetrated 
so far beyond Melville Island as to induce him to prefer 
making for the continent of America rather than seek- 
ing assistance from the whale ships in Baffin's Bay. 
The crews, weakened by incessant exertion, were now 
in a very unfit state to undertake the heavy labor 
which they had yet to accomplish, but all hands that 
were able were set to work with saws to cut a channel 
toward the point of the harbor, a distance of lather 



VOYAGE OF ENTBEPRISE AND mVESTIGATOE. 287 

more than two miles, and on the 28th of August the 
ships got clear. Before quitting the port, a house was 
built of the spare spars of both ships, and covered with 
such of the housing cloths as could be dispensed with. 
Twelve months' provisions, fuel, and other necessaries 
were also left behind, together with the steam launch 
belonging to the Investigator, which, having been pur- 
posely lengthened seven feet, now formed a fine vessel, 
capable of conveying the whole of Sir John Franklin's 
party to the whale ships, if necessary. 

The Investigator and Enterprise now proceeded 
toward the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, for the 
purpose of examining Wellington Channel, and, if pos- 
sible, penetrating as far as Melville Island, but when 
about twelve miles from the shore, the ships came to 
the fixed land-ice, and found it impossible to proceed. 

On the 1st of September a strong wind suddenly 
arising, brought the loose j)ack, through which they 
had been struggling, down upon the ships, which were 
closely beset. At times, during two or three days, 
they sustained severe pressure, and ridges of hum- 
mocks were thrown up all around ; but after that time 
the temperature falling to near zero, it formed the 
whole body of ice into one solid mass. 

The remainder of the narrative, as related by the 
Commander of the expedition in his official dispatch, 
will not bear abridgment. 

" We were so circumstanced that for some days we 
could not imship the rudder, and when, by the labori- 
ous operation of sawing and removing the hummocks 
from under the stem, we were able to do so, we found 
it twisted and damaged ; and the ship was so much 
strained, as to increase the leakage from three inches 
in a fortnight to fourteen inches daily. The ice was 
stationary for a few days ; the pressure had so folded 
the lighter pieces over each other and they were so 
interlaced, as to form one entire sheet, extending from 
shore to shore of Barrow's Strait, and as far to the east 
and west as the eye could discern from the mast-head, 
while the extreme severity of the temperature had 



288 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERr. 

cemented the whole so firmly together that it appeared 
highly improbable that it could break up again this 
season. In the space which had been cleared away 
for unshipping the rudder, the newly-formed ice was 
fifteen inches thick, and in some places along the ship's 
side the thirteen-feet screws were too short to work. 
We had now fully made up our minds that the ships 
were fixed for the winter, and disihal as the prospect 
appeared, it was far preferable to being carried along 
the west coast of Bafl&n's Bay, where the grounded 
bergs are in such numbers upon the shallow banks off 
that shore, as to render it next to impossible for ships 
involved in a pack to escape destruction. It was, 
therefore, with a mixture of hope and anxiety that, on 
the wind shifting to the westward, we perceived the 
whole body of ice begin to drive to the eastward, at the 
rate of eight to ten miles daily. Every effort on our 
part was totally unavailing, for no human power could 
have moved either of the ships a single inch ; they were 
thus completely taken out of our own hands, and in the 
center of a field of ice more than fifty miles in circum- 
ference, were carried along the southern shore of 
Lancaster Sound. 

" After passing its entrance, the ice drifted in a more 
southerly direction , along the western shore of Baffin's 
Bay, until we were abreast of Pond's Bay, to the south- 
ward of which we observed a great number of icebergs 
stretching across our path, and presenting the fearful 
prospect of our worst anticipations. But when least 
expected by us, our release wias almost miraculously 
brought about. The great field of ice was rent into 
innumerable fragments, as if by some unseen power." 

By energetic exertion, warping, and sailing, the ships 
got clear of the pack, and reached an open space of 
water on the 25th of September. 

" It is impossible," says Captain Ross, in his con 
eluding observations, " to convey any idea of the sen 
Bation we experienced when we found ourselves once 
more at liberty, while many a grateful heart poured 
forth its praises and thanksgivings to Almighty God 
for this unlooked for deliverance." 



VOYAGE OF ENTERPRISE AND INVESTIGATOR. 289 

*'The advance of winter had now closed all the har- 
bors against us ; and as it was impossible to penetrate 
to the westward through the pack from which we had 
just been liberated, I made the signal to the Investi- 
gator of my intention to return to England." 

After a favorable passage, the ships arrived home 
early in ISTovember, Captain Sir J. C. Eoss reporting 
himself at the Admiralty on the 5th of [N'ovember. 

As this is the last arctic voyage of Sir James C. Ross, 
it is a fitting place for some record of his arduous 
services. 

Captain Sir James Clarke Ross entered the navy in 
1812, and served as volunteer of the first class, mid- 
shipman and mate until 1817, with his uncle Com- 
mander Ross. In 1818 he was appointed Admiralty 
midshipman in the Isabella, on Commander Ross's first 
voyage of discovery to the arctic seas. He was then 
midshipman in the two following years with Captain 
Parry, in the Hecla ; followed him again in the Fury 
in his second voyage, and was promoted on the 26th 
of December, 1822. In 1824 and 1825, he was lieu- 
tenant in the Fury, under Captain Hoppner, on Parry's 
third voyage. In 1827, he was appointed first lieuten- 
ant of the Hecla, under Parry, and accompanied him 
in command of the second boat in his attempt to reach 
the North Pole. On his return he received his promo- 
tion to the rank of commander, the 8th of IsTovember, 
1827. From 1829 to 1833, he was employed with his 
uncle as second in command in the Yictory on the pri- 
vate expedition sent out by Mr. Felix Booth. During 
this period he planted, on the 1st of June, 1831, the 
British flag on the ISTorth Magnetic Pole. For this, on 
his return, he was presented by the Herald's College 
with an addition to his family arms of an especial crest, 
representing a flag-staff erect on a rock, with the union 
jack hoisted thereon, inscribed with the date, "1 June, 
1831." On the 23d of October, 1834, he was promoted 
to the rank of Captain, and in the following year em- 
ployed in making magnetic observations, preparatory 
to the general magnetic survey of England, t In the 

19 



290 PEOGKESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY. 

close of 1836, it having been represented to tlie Ad- 
miralty, from Hull, that eleven whale ships, having on 
board 600 men, were left in the ice in Davis' Strait, 
and in imminent danger of perishing, unless relief were 
forwarded to them, the Lords Commissioners resolved 
upon sending out a ship to search for them. Captain 
Koss, with that promptitude and humanity which has 
always characterized him, volunteered to go out in the 
depth of winter, and the Lieutenants, F. R. M. Crozier, 
Inman, and Ommaney, with the three mates, Jesse, 
Buchan, and John Smith, and Mr. Hallett, clerk in 
charge, joined him. They sailed from England on the 
21st of December, and on arriving in Davis' Strait, after 
a stormy passage, found that nine of the missing ships 
were by that time in England, that the tenth was re- 
leased on her passage, and that the other was in all 
probability lost, as some of her water-casks had been 
picked up at sea. From 1837 to 1838, Captain Ross 
was employed in determining the variation of the com- 
pass on all parts of the coast of Great Britain ; and 
from 1839 to 1843, as Captain of the Erebus, in cona- 
mand of the antarctic expedition. In 1841, he was 
presented with the founder's medal of the Royal Geo- 
graphical Society of London, for his discoveries toward 
the South Pole ; and he has also received the gold 
medal of the Geographical Society of Paris. On the 
13th of March, 1844, he received the honor of knight- 
hood from the Queen, and in June of the same year 
the University of Oxford bestowed on him their honor- 
ary degree of D. C. L. In 1848, he went out, as we 
have just seen, in the Enterprise, in Command of one 
of the searching expeditions sent to seek for Franklin. 

YOTAGE OF H. M. S. " IS'ORTH StAR." 

The North Star, of 500 tons, was fitted out in the 
spring of 1849, under the command of Mr. J. Saunders, 
v.-ho had been acting master with Captain Back, in the 
Terror, in her perilous voyage to the Frozen Strait, in 
1836. % 



VOYAGE OF THE NOKTH STAE. 291 

The following are the officers of the ships : — 

Master Cominanding — J. Sannders. 

Second Masters — John Way, M. ISTorman, H. B. 

Gawler. 
Acting Ice-masters — J. Leach, and G. Sabestor. 
Assistant Surgeon — James Rae, M. D. 
Clerk in Charge — Jasper Rutter. 

The North Star sailed from the river Thames, on the 
26th of May, 1849, freighted with provisions for the 
missing expedition, and with orders and supplies for 
the Enterprise and Investigator. 

The following is one of the early dispatches from the 
commander : — 

" To the Secretary of the Admiralty. 

" H, M. S. North Star, July 19, 1849, 
lat. 74P S' JSr., long. 59° 40' W. 

'"• Sir, — I addressed a letter to their Lordships on the 
18th ult., when in lat. 73° 30' ]Nr., and long. 56° 53' W., 
detailing the particulars of my proceedings up to that 
date, which letter was sent by a boat from the Lady 
Jane, whaler, which vessel was wrecked, and those boats 
were proceeding to the Danish settlements. Since then, 
t regret to state, our progress has been almost entirely 
itopped, owing to the ice being so placed across Mel- 
ville Bay as to render it perfectly impassable. 

" On the 6th inst., finding it impossible to make any 
progress, I deemed it advisable to run as far S. as 72°, 
examining the pack as we went along. At 72° 22' the 
pack appeared slacker, and we entered it, and, after 
proceeding about twelve miles, found ourselves com- 
pletely stopped by large floes of ice. We accordingly 
put back, and steeied again for the northward. 

"Having this day reached the latitude cf 74° 3' ]^., 
, and long. 59° 40' W., the ice appeared more open, and 
WQ stood in toward the land, when we observed two 
boats approaching, and which afterward, on comJng 
alongside, were found to belong to the Prince of Wales. 
.\^haler, which vessel was nipped by the ice on the 12th 
nst., in Melville Bay. 



292 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

" By the captain of the Prince of Wales I forward 
this letter to their Lordships, he intending to proceed 
in his boats to the Danish settlements. 
" I have the honor to be, &c. 

" J. Sauxders, Master and Commander. 
" P. S. — Crew all well on board." 

On the 29th of July, having reached the vicinity of 
the Devil's Thumb and Melville Bay, in the northerly 
part of Baffin's Bay, she was beset in an ice-field, with 
which she drifted helplessly about as the tide or wind 
impelled her, until the 16th of August, when, a slight 
opening in the ice appearing, an effort was made to 
heave through into clear water. This j)roved labor in 
vain, and no further move was made until the 21st of 
September, except as she drifted in the ice floe in which 
she was fixed. On the day last named she was driving 
before a hard gale from the S. S. W., directly down upon 
an enormous iceberg in Melville Sound, upon which if 
she had struck in the then prevailing weather, her total 
destruction would have been inevitable. Providen- 
tially a corner of the ice-field in which she was being 
carried furiously along came into violent collision with 
the berg, a large section was carried away, and she 
escaped. On the 29th of September, 1849, having been 
sixty-two days in the ice, she took up her winter quar- 
ters in ^North Star Bay, so called after herself, a small 
bay in "VYolstenholme Sound, lying in T6° 33' north lat- 
itude, and 68° 56' west longitude ; the farthest point to 
the north at which a British ship pver wintered. The 
ship was fixed about half a mile from the shore, and 
made snug for the winter, sails were unbent, the masts 
struck, and the ship housed over and made as warm 
and comfortable as circumstances would permit. The 
ice soon after took across the Sound, so that the crew 
could have walked on shore. The cold was intense ; 
but two or three stoves w^armed the ship, and the crews 
were cheered up and encouraged with all sorts of games 
and amusements, occasionally visiting the shore for the 
purpose of skylarking. There was, unfortunately, but 
little <2^ame to shoot. Former accounts gave this ph^^ 



VOYAGE OF THE NOETH STAE. 293 

• 

a high character for deer and other animals ; bnt the 
crew of the North Star never saw a single head of deer, 
and other animals were scarce ; about fifty hares were 
killed. Foxes were numerous, and a number shot, but 
none taken alive. A few Esquimaux families occasion- 
ally visited the ship, and one poor man was brought on 
board with his feet so frozen that they dropped. He 
was placed under the care of the assistant-surgeon. Dr. 
Eae, who paid him much attention, and his legs were 
nearly cured ; but he died from a pulmonary disorder 
after having been on board some six weeks. The iN'orth 
Star was not able to leave this retreat until the 1st of 
August, 1850, and got into clear water on the third of 
that month. On the 21st of August, she spoke the 
Lady Franklin, Captain Penny, and her consort the 
Sophia, and the following day the Felix, Sir John Koss, 
in Lancaster Sound. Captain Penny reported that he 
had left Captain Austin all well on the 17th of August. 
On the 23d of August, the North Star began landing 
the provisions she had carried out in Navy Board In- 
let ; 73° W N. latitude, 80° 56' W. longitude. She 
remained five days there, and was occupied four and a 
half in landing the stores, which were deposited in a 
ravine a short distance from the beach of Supply Bay, 
the bight in Navy Board Inlet, which the commander 
of the North Star so named. The position of the stores 
was indicated by a fiag-stafiT, with- a black ball, and a 
letter placed beneath a cairn of stones. They had pre- 
viously tried to deposit the stores at Port Bowen, and 
Port Neale, but were prevented approaching them by 
the ice. On the 30th of August, the North Star saw 
and spoke the schooner Prince Albert, Commander 
Forsyth, in Possession Bay. On the 31st, a boat was 
sent to the Prince Albert, when Commander Forsyth 
came on board and reported that he had also been to 
Port Neale, but had not been able to enter for the ice, 
and had found one of the American ships sent out to 
search for Sir John Franklin ashore in Barrow's Strait, 
that he had tendered assistance, which had been de- 
clined by the American commander, as, his ship being. 



294: PEUGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

iininjnred, lie believed liis own crew competent to get 
lior off. Commander Forsyth reported that Captain 
Austin liad proceeded to Pond's Bay in the Intrepid, 
tender to the Assistance, to land letters. The North 
Star went on to Pond's Bay, bnt conld not find any in- 
dication of Caj^tain xinstin's having been there. It is 
conjectnred that he had passed the appointed spot in a 
fog. The North Star's people suffered much from the 
intense cold, but only lost five hands during her peril- 
ous trip and arctic winter quarters. She left there on 
September 9th, and reached Spithead on the 28th of 
September, 1850. Since his return Mr. Saunders has 
been ap2)ointed Master Attendant of the Dock-yard at 
Malta. The Admiralty have received dispatches from 
Captain Sir J. Poss, Captain Penny, and Captain Om- 
maney. Captain Ommaney, in the Assistance, dating 
from off Lancaster Sound, latitude 75° 46' N., longi- 
tude 75° 49' W., states that some Esquimaux had de- 
scribed to him a ship being hauled in during the last 
winter, and, on going to the spot, he found, from some 
papers left, that it was the North Star. He was pro- 
ceeding to search in Lancaster Sound. Captain Penny, 
of the Lady Franklin, writing from Lancaster Sound, 
August 21, states, that having heard on the 18th from 
Captain Austin of a report from the Esquimaux, that 
Sir John Franklin's ships had been lost forty miles 
north, and the crews murdered, he went with an inter- 
preter, but could find no evidence for the rumor, and 
came to the conclusion that the whole story had been 
founded on the North Star's wintering there. He con- 
sidered that his interpreter, M. Petersen, had done much 
good by exposing the fallacy of the story of Sir J 
Koss's Esquimaux. 

Her Majesty's Ships "Enterprise" and "Investiga 
tor" under Captain Collinson. 

The Enterprise and Investigator were fitted out agair 
immediately on their return home, and placed uiidei 
the charge of Captain B. Collinson, C. B., with the fol 



SECOND TRIP OF ENTEEPEISE AND INVESTIGATOE. 295 

li wing officers attached, to j)roceed to Beliring's Strait, 
to resume the search in that direction : — 

Enterprise^ 340 tons. 
Captain — K. Collinson. 
Lieutenants — G. A. Phayre,* J. J. Barnard,* and 

C. T. Jago. 
Master— K. T. G. Legg. 
Second Master — Francis Skead. 
Mate — M.T. Parks. 
Surgeon — Robert Anderson.* 
Assistant-Surgeon — Edward Adams.* 
Clerk in Charge — Edward Whitehead.* 
Total complement, QQ, 

Investigator, 
Commander — E. J. M'Clure.* 
Lieutenants — W. H. Haswell and S. G. Cresswell.* 
Mates — H. H. Saintsbur j and R. J. "Wjniatt. 
Second Master — Stephen Court.* 
Surgeon — Alexander Armstrong, M. D. 
Assistant-Surgeon — Hy. Piers. 
C]«rk in Charge — Joseph C. Paine. 
Total complement, QQ. 

Those officers marked with a star had been with the 
Bhips in their last voyage. 

These vessels sailed from Plymouth on the 20th of 
January, 1850. A Mr. Micrtsching, a Moravian mis- 
sionary, was appointed to the Enterprise, as interpreter. 
This gentleman is in the prime of life, of robust health, 
inured, by a service of five years in Labrador, to the 
hardships and privations of the arctic regions, and suffi- 
ciently acquainted with the language and manners of 
the Esquimaux to be able to hold friendly and unre- 
served intercourse with them. 

The Investigator and the Enterprise were at the 
Sandwich Islands on June 29th. Captain Collinson 
purposed sailing in a few days, and expected to reach 
the ice about the 8th of July. Prior to his arrival, 



PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

numerous whalers liad started for the Strait, one in par- 
ticular, under the command of a Captain Eoys, with 
the expressed intention of endeavoring to earn the 
Franklin reward. 

These vessels are intended to penetrate, if possible, to 
the western extremity of Melville Island, there to winter, 
and make further search, in the spring of 1851, for the 
crews of the lost ships. 

In a letter from Captain Collinson to Commander Mc 
Clure, dated Oahu, June 29th, 1850, with a sight of 
which I have been favored at the Admiralty, he thus 
describes his intentions — "I intend making the pack 
close to the American shore, and availing myself of the 
first favorable opening v/est of the coast stream ; pressing 
forward toward Melville Island. In the event of meet- 
ing land, it is most probable that I would pursue the 
southern shore." 

The latest letter received from Commander McClure 
18 dated Kotzebue Sound, July 27th, 1850, and the 
following is an extract : — 

" You will be glad to learn that to this we have been 
highly favored, carrying a fair wind from Whoa, which 
place we left on the 4th. We passed the Aleutian 
Islands on the 20th, in 172° 30' W., and got fairly 
through the Straits to-day, and we consider we are upon 
our ground ; the only detriment has been very dense 
fogs, which have rendered the navigation of the islands 
exceedingly nervous work ; but as the object to be 
achieved is of so important a nature, all hazards must 
be run to carry out the intentions of those at home, 
which have very fortunately terminated without acci- 
dent. We are now making the most of our wind, and 
we hope to meet an American whaler, of which I be- 
lieve there are a great number fishing this season, and 
to whom we must intrust our last dispatches. Sincerely 
do I trust that, ere we return, some tidings of poor Sir 
John and his noble companions may reward our search ; 
which will render the long-sought for passage, should 
it be our fortune to make it, one of the most memorable 
in the annals of our times, and relieve many an anxious 
breast " 



SECOND TRIP OF ENTEEPKISE AND INVESTIGATOR. 297 

Dispatches have been received at the Admiralty from 
r^lDtain Kellet, C. B., of her Maj-esty's ship Herald^ 
dated at sea, the 14th of October, 1850, on his return 
from Behring's Strait. The Herald had communicated 
with her Majesty's ship Plover, on the 10th of July, at 
Chamisso Island, where the Plover had passed the pre- 
ceding winter. The two ships proceeded to the north- 
ward until they sighted the pack-ice, when the Herald 
returned to Cape Lisburne, in quest of Captain Collin- 
son's expedition, and on the 31st fell in with her Maj- 
esty's ship Investigator, which had made a surprisingly 
short passage of twenty-six days from the Sandwich 
Islands. The Herald remained cruising off Cape Lis- 
burne, and again fell in with the Plover on the 13th of 
August, on her return from Point Barrow, Commander 
Moore having coasted in his boats, and minutely exam- 
ined the several inlets as far as that point from Icy Cape 
without gaining any intelligence of the missing expedi- 
tion. Commander Moore and his boat's crew had suf- 
fered severely from exposure to cold. Captain Kellet, 
having fully victualed the Plover, ordered her to winter 
in Grantley Harbor (her former anchorage at Chamisso 
Is] and. not being considered safe,) and then returned to 
the southward on his way to England 

Dispatches have also been received from Captain Col- 
linson, C. B., of her Majesty's ship Enterprise, and 
Commander M'Clure, of her Majesty's ship Investigator 
of which the following are copies : — 

" Her Majesty'' s Ship ^Enterpriser 
''Port Clarenee, Sept, 13,1850. 

" Sir, — I have the honor to transmit an account of 
the proceedings of her ^Majesty's sliip under my com ■ 
mand since leaving Oahu on the 30th of June. 

"Being delayed by light winds, we only reached the 
western end of the Aleutian Chain by the 29th of July, 
and made the Island of St. Lawrence on the 11th of 
August, from whence I shaped a course for Cape Lis- 
burne, in anticipation of falling in with the Herald or 



298 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

the Plover. Kot, however, seeing either of these ves- 
sels, and finding nothing deposited on shore, I went on 
to Wainwright Inlet, the last rendezvous appointed. 
Here we communicated on the 15th, and being alike 
unsuccessful in obtaining any information, I stood to 
the north, made the ice following morning, and reached 
the latitude 72° 40' IST. in the meridian of 159° 30' W., 
without serious obstruction. Here, however, the pack 
became so close that it was impossible to make way in 
any direction except to the southward. Having extri- 
cated ourselves by noon on the 19th, we continued to 
coast along the edge of the main body, which took a 
southeasterly trend, running through the loose streams, 
so as not to lose sight of tight pack. At 4 a. m. on the 
20th we were in the meridian of Point Barrow, and 
twenty-eight miles to the north of it, when we found 
open water to the IS". E., in which we sailed, without 
losing sight of the ice to the north until the morning 
of the 21st, when we were obstructed by a heavy bar- 
rier trending to the southwest. A thick fog coming on, 
we made a board to the north, in order to feel the pack 
edge in the upper part of the bight, and not to leave 
any part unexplored. Having satisfied myself that no 
opening- existed .a this direction, we bore away to the 
south, running through heavy floes closely packed, and 
pushing to the eastward when an opportunity oftered. 
In this, however, we were unsuccessful, being com- 
pelled to pursue a westerly course, the floes being very 
heavy and hummocky. By 8 p. m. we were within 
thirty miles of the land, and having clear weather, 
could see the ice closely packed to the south that left 
no doubt in my mind that a stop was put to our pro- 
ceeding in this direction, by the ice butting so close on 
,the shoal coast as to leave no chance that our progress 
along it would justify the attempt to reach Cape Bath- 
nrst, a distance of 570 miles, during the remaining 
portion of this season; and finding this opinion was 
coincided in by those ofiicers on board qualified to 
form an opinion on the subject, I determined to lose 
no time in communicating with Point Barrow, but to 



SECOND TEIP OF EKTEEPKISE AKD INVESTIGATOR. 291^ 

attempt the passage further north, in hopes that the 
lane of water seen last year by the Herald and Plover 
would afford me an opening to the eastward. I there- 
fore reluctantly proceeded again to the west, and turn- 
ing the pack edge fifteen miles further to the south 
than it was on the day after we left Wainwright Inlet, 
we followed the edge of a loose pack greatly broken 
up, until we reached 163° W. long., when it took a 
sudden turn to the north, in which direction we fol- 
lowed it until the morning of the 27th, when we were 
in latitude 73° 20', and found the pack to the westward 
trending southerly. I therefore plied to the eastward, 
endeavoring to make way, but such was its close con- 
dition that we could not work, although we might have 
warped through, had the condition of the ice in that 
direction afforded us any hope ; but this, I am sorry to 
say, was not the case, arid, on the contrary, the further 
we entered, the larger the floes became, leaving us, in 
thick weather, often in great difficulty where to find a 
lane. On the 29th the thermometer having fallen to 
28°, and there being no prospect of our being able to 
accomplish any thing toward the fulfillment of their 
Lordships' instructions this season, I bore away for 
Point Hope, where I arrived on the 31st, and found a 
bottle deposited by the Herald, which informed me 
that it was intended to place the Plover in Grantley 
Harbor this season. I accordingly proceeded thither, 
with the view of taking her place for the winter, and 
enabling Commander Moore to recruit his ship's com- 
pany by going to the southward. On my arrival I 
found her inside, preparing her winter quarters, and 
having examined and buoyed the bar, I attempted to 
take this vessel inside, but failed in doing so, owing 
to the change of wind from south to north having re- 
duced the depth of water four feet, and had to relieve 
the ship of 100 tons, which was quickly done by the 
opportune arrival of the Herald, before she was re- 
leased from a very critical position. The tides being 
irregular, the rise and fall depending principally on 
the wind, and that wind which occasions the highest 



800 PROGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

water producing a swell on the bar, it became a ques- 
tion whether a considerable portion of the ensuing 
season might not be lost in getting the ship out of 
Grantlej Harbor ; and on consulting Captains Kellet 
and Moore, finding it to be their opinion, founded on 
the experience of two years, that the whalers coming 
from the south pass through the Strait early in June, 
whereas the harbors are blocked until the middle of 
Jul}^, I have come to the conclusion that I shall better 
perform the important duty confided in me by return- 
ing to the south, and replenishing my provisions, in- 
stead of wintering on the Asiatic Shore, where there 
is not a prospect of our being of the slightest use to 
the missing expedition. It is therefore my intention 
to proceed to Hong Kong, it being nearer than Valpa- 
raiso, and the cold season having set in, my stores and 
provisions will not be exposed to the heat of a double 
passage through the tropics ; and as I shall not leave 
until the 1st of April, I may receive any further in- 
structions their Lordships may please to communicate. 

"The Plover has been stored and provisioned, and 
such of her crew as are not in a fit state to contend 
with the rigor of a further stay in these latitudes have 
been removed, and replaced by Captain Kellet, and the 
paragraphs referring to her in my instructions fulfilled., 

"I have directed Commander Moore to communi- 
cate annually with an Island in St. Lawrence Bay, in 
latitude 65° 38' I^., and longitude 170'' 43' W., which 
is much resorted to by the whalers, and where any 
communication their Lordships may be pleased to send 
may be deposited by them, as they are not in the 
habit of cruising on this side of the Strait ; and I have 
requested Captain Kellet to forward to the Admiralty 
all the information on this head he may obtain at the 
'Sandwich Islands. 

" It is my intention to proceed again to the north, 
and remain in the most eligible position for affording 
assistance to the Investigator, which vessel, having 
been favored with a surprising passage from the Sand- 
wich Islands, was fallen in with by the Herald on the 



SECOND TRIP OF ENTERPRISE AND INVESTIGATOR. 301 

31st of July, oif Point Hope, and again on the 5tli of 
August, by the Plover, in latitude 70^ 44' ^N"., and lon- 
gitude 159° 52'W., when she was standing to the north 
under a press of sail, and in all probability reached 
the vicinity of Point Barrow, fifteen days previous to 
the Enterprise, when Captain M'Clure, having the 
whole season before him, and animated with the de- 
termination so vividly expressed in his letter to Cap- 
tain Kellett, has most likely taken the inshore route, 
and I hope before this period reached Cape Bathurst ; 
but as he will be exposed to the imminent risk of being 
forced on a shoal shore and compelled to take to his 
boats, I shall not forsake the coast to the northward 
of Point Hope until the season is so far advanced as 
to insure their having taken up their winter quarters 
for this season. 

"I have received from my officers and *ship's com- 
pany that assistance and alacrity in the performance 
of their duty, which the noble cause in which we are 
engaged must excite, and I have the satisfaction to re- 
port that (under the blessing of God) owing to the 
means their Lordships have supplied in extra clothing 
and provisions, we are at present without a man on 
the sick list, notwithstanding the lengthened period of 
our voyage. 

"I have, &:c., 

Richard Collinson", Captain. 

"The Secretary of the Admiralty." 



'^Her Majesty'^s Discovery -ship 'Investigator^^ at sea^ 
latitude 51° 26' iT., longitude 172° 35' TF., July 20. 

Sir, — As I have received instructions from Captain 
Collinson, C. B., clear and unembarrassing, (a copy of 
which I inclose,) to proceed to Cape Lisburne in the 
hope of meeting him in that vicinity, as he anticipates 
being detained a day or two by the Plover in Kotzebue 
Sound, it is unnecessary to add that every exertion shall 
be made to reach that rendezvous, but can scarce ven- 
ture to hope that even under very favorable circum- 



302 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

stances I shall be so fortunate as to accomplish it ere 
the Enterprise will have rounded that cape, from her 
superior sailing, she hitherto having beaten us by eight 
days to Cape Virgins, and from Magellan Strait to Oahu 
six. It is, therefore, under the probable case that this 
vessel may form a detached part of the expedition that 
I feel it my duty to state, for the information of the 
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, the course 
which, under such a contingency, I shall endeavor to 
pursue, and have to request that you will lay the same 
before their Lordships. 

" 1. After passing Cape Lisburne, it is my intention 
to keep in the open water, which, from the different 
reports that I have read, appears about this season of 
the year to make between the American coast and the 
main pack as far to the northward as the 130th meridian, 
unless a faw)rable opening should earlier appear in the 
ice, which would lead me to infer that I might push 
more directly for Banks' Land, w^hich I think is of the 
utmost importance to thoroughly examine. In the event 
of thus far succeeding, and the season continuing favor- 
able for farther operations, it would be my anxious 
desire to get to the northward of Melville Island, and 
resume our search along its shores and the islands adja- 
cent as long as the navigation can be carried on, and 
then secure for the winter in the most eligible position 
which offers. 

" 2. In the ensuing spring, as soon as it is practicable 
for traveling parties to start, I should dispatch as many 
as the state of the crew will admit of in different direc- 
tions, each being provided with forty days' provisions, 
with directions to examine minutely all bays, inlets and 
islands toward the northeast, ascending occasionally 
some of the highest points of land, so as to be enabled 
to obtain extended views, being particularly cautious in 
their advance to observe any indication of a break up in 
the ice, so that their return to the ship may be effected 
without hazard, even before the expenditure of their 
provisions would otherwise render it necessary. 

" 3. Supposing the parties to have returned w^*^*-^+* 



SECOND TKIP OF ENTEEPKISE AND IIH^ESTIGATOK. 303 

r^\^^^^^Ilg any clue of the absent ships, and the vessel 
liberated about the 1st of August, my object would then 
be to push on toward "Wellington Inlet, assuming that 
that channel communicates with the Polar Sea, and 
search both its shores, unless in doing so some indication 
should be met with to show that parties from any of 
Captain Austin's vessels had previously done so, when 
I should return, and endeavor to penetrate in the direc- 
tion of Jones' Sound, carefully examining every place 
that was practicable. Should our efforts to reach this 
point be successful, and in the route no traces are dis- 
cernible of the long missing expedition, I should not 
then be enabled longer to divest myself of the feelings, 
painful as it must be to arrive at such a conclusion, that 
all human aid would then be perfectly unavailing ; and 
therefore, under such a conviction, I would think it my 
duty, if possible, to return to England, or at all events 
endeavor to reach some port that would insm-e that ob- 
ject upon the following year. 

" 4. In the event of this being our last communica- 
tion, I would request you to assure their lordships that 
no apprehensions whatever need be entertained of our 
safety until the autumn of 1854, as we have on board 
three years, of all species of provisions, commencing 
from the 1st of September proximo, which, without 
much deprivation, may be made to extend over a period 
of four years ; moreover, whatever is killed by the hunt- 
ing parties, I intend to issue in lieu of the usual rations, 
which will still further protract our resources. 

"It gives me great pleasure to say that the good 
effects of the fruit and vegetables, (a large quantity of 
which we took on board at Oahu,) are very perceptible 
in the increased vigor of the men, who at this moment 
are in as excellent condition as it is possible to desire, 
and evince a spirit of confidence and a cheerfulness of 
disposition which are beyond all appreciation. 

" 5. Should difficulties apparently insurmountable en- 
compass our progress, so as to render it a matter of 
doubt whether the vessel could be extricated, I should 
deem it expedient in that case not to hazard the lives 



304: PROGEESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVEET. 

of those intrusted to mj charge after the winter of 1852, 
but in the ensuing spring quit the vessel with sledges 
and boats, and make the best of our way either to 
Pond's JBay, Leopold Harbor, the Mackenzie, or for 
whalers, according to circumstances. 

" Finally. In this letter I have endeavored to give an 
outline of what I wish to accomplish, (and what, under 
moderately favorable seasons, appears to me attainable,) 
the carrying out of which, however, not resting upon 
human exertions, it is impossible even to surmise if any, 
or what, portion may be successful. But my object in 
addressing you is to place their Lordships in possession 
of my intentions up to the latest period, so far as possi- 
ble, to relieve their minds from any unnecessary anxiety 
as to our fate ; and having done this, a duty which is 
incumbent from the deep sympathy expressed by their 
Lordships, and participated in by all classes of our 
countrymen, in the interesting object of this expedition, 
I have only to add, that with the ample resources which 
a beneficent government and a generous country have 
placed at our disposal, (not any thing that can add to 
our comfort being wanting,) we enter upon this distin- 
guished service with a firm determination to carry out, 
as far as in our feeble strength we are permitted, their 
benevolent intentions. * 

" I have, &c., 
"RoBEET M'Clijee, Commander." 



"JT^T" Majesty^ s ship ^Enterpriser 
"Oahu, June 29, 1S50. 

" Memoeandtim. — As soon as Her Majesty's ship under 
your command is fully complete with provisions, fuel, 
and water, you will make the best of your way to Cape 
Lisburne, keeping a good look-out for the Herald, or 
casks, and firing guns in foggy weather, after passing 
Lawrence Bay. The whalers also may afford you infor- 
mation of our progress. 

" Should you obtain no intelligence, you will under- 
stand that I intend to make the pack close to the Ameri- 



DISPATCHES FROM ENTERPEISE AND IHT32STIGATGE. 305 

can shore, and ptirs,ue the first favorable opening west 
of the Coast stream, pressing forward toward Meivillp. 
Island. In the event of meeting land, it is most proba- 
ble that I would pursue the southern shore, but conspit^ 
uous marks will be erected, if practicable, and informs, 
tion buried at a ten-foot radius. 

" As it is necessary to be prepared for the contiir 
gency of your not being able to follow by the ice clos 
ing in, or the severity of the weather, you will in that 
case keep the Investigator as close to the edge of the 
pack as is consistent with her safety, and remain there 
until the season compels you to depart, when you will 
look into Kotzebue Sound for the Plover, or informa- 
tion regarding her position ; and having deposited un- 
der her charge a twelve month's provisions, you will 
proceed to Valparaiso, replenish, and return to th© 
Strait, bearing in mind that the months of June and 
July are the most favorable. 

" A letter from the hydrographer relative to the vari- 
ation of the compass is annexed ; and you will bear in 
mind that the value of these observations will he greatly 
enhanced by obtaining the variation with the ship's 
head at every second or fourth point round the com- 
pass occasionally, and she should be swung for devia- 
tion in harbor as often as opportunity may offer. 

" Should you not find the Plover, or that any casualty 
has happened to render her inefficient as a depot, you 
will take her place ; and if, (as Captain Kellett sup- 
poses,) Kotzebue Sound has proved too exposed for a 
winter harbor, you will proceed to Grantley Harbor, 
leaving a notice to that effect on Chamisso Island. 
The attention of your officers is to be called, and you 
will read to your ship's company, the remarks of Sir 
J. Richardson concerning the communication vvitli the 
Esquimaux, contained in the arctic report received at 
Plymouth, 

" Your operations in the season 1851, cannot be 
guided by me, nor is there any occasion to urge you to 
proceed to the northeast ; yet it will be highly desir- 
able, previous to entering the pack, that yon completed 

'20 



hc^ PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. 

provisions from whalers, and obtained as rancli reindeer 
meat as possible. Captain Kellett's narrative will point 
out where the latter is to be had in most abundance, 
and where coal can be picked up on the beach ; but 
husband the latter article during the winter, bj using 
all the drift-wood in your power. 

" In the event of leaving the Strait this season, you 
will take any weak or sickly men out of the Plover, 
and replace them from your crews, affording Com- 
mander Moore all the assistance in your power, and 
leaving with him Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter ; in- 
structions with regard to whose accommodations you 
have received, and will convey to the captain of the 
Plover. "RiCHAED Colli]s^son. 

" To Commander WClure^ of her 
Majesty\s shijp ' Investigator.'' 

" Should it be the opinion of Commander Moore that 
the services of the Investigator's ship's company in ex- 
ploring parties during the spring would be attended 
with material benefit to the object of the expedition, 
he will, notwithstanding these orders, detain you for 
that purpose ; but care must be taken that your effi- 
ciency as a sailing vessel is not crippled by the parties 
not retm-ning in time for the opening of the sea. 

" E. C." 



" Her Majesty'' s discovery ship ' Investigator^^ July 
28, 1850. Kotzebue Sound^ latitude QQ'' 54' JSt,, 
longitude IQ^"" W. 

" Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you, for the in- 
formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi- 
ralty, that to this date we have had a most excellent 
run. Upon getting clear of Oahu, on the morning of 
the 5th, we shaped a course direct for* the Aleutian 
group, passing them in 172° 40' W., upon the evening 
of the 20ih ; continued our course with a fine south- 
easterly breeze, but extremely thick and foggy weather, 
(which retarded the best of our way being made.) Got 
fairly out of Behring's Strait upon the evening of t]ie 



VOYAGE OF THE PLOVEE, ETC. 307 

27th, and are now in a fair way of realizing tlieir Lord- 
ships' expectations of reaching the ice by the begin- 
ning of Angiist, our progress being advanced by the 
favorable circumstances of a fine southerly wind and 
tolerably clear weather. The latter we have known 
nothing of since the 19th, which, I can assure you, ren- 
dered the navigation among the islands a subject of 
much and deep anxiety, seldom having a horizon above 
i80 yards, that just enabled the dark outline of the land 
to be observed and avoided. 

" It is with much satisfaction that I report the good 
qualities of this vessel, having well tried her in the 
heavy gales experienced during five weeks off Cape 
Horn, and in moderate weather among the intricate 
navigation of these islands, where so much depended 
upon her quick obedience to the helm, although ladea 
with every species of stores and provisions for upwai'd 
of three years. From these circumstances I am, there- 
fore, fully satisfied she is as thoroughly adapted for this 
service as could be reasonably wished. 

"I have not seen any thing of the Enterprise, nor is 
it my intention to lose a moment by w^aiting off Cape 
Lisburne, but shall use my best endeavors to carry out 
the intentions contained in my letter of the 20th, of 
which I earnestly trust their Lordships will approve. 

"" I am happy to be able to state that the whole crew 
are in excellent health and spirits, and every thing as 
satisfactory as it is possible to desire. 

" I have, &c., 
" KoBEET M'Cluee, Commander. 

" The Secretary of the Admiralty P 
YoYAGE OF H. M. S. " Plovee," and Boat Expeditions 

UNDEE COMMANDEE PuLLEN, 1848-51. 

In the copy of the instructions issued from the Ad- 
miralty to Lieutenant, (now Commander,) Moore, of 
the Plover, dated 3d of January, 1848, he was directed 
to make the best of his way to Petropaulowski, touch- 
ing at Panama, where she was to be joined by H. M. 



308 PROGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEKT. 

S. Herald, and afterward both vessels were to proceed 
to Behring's Strait, where they were expected to arrive 
about the 1st of July, and then push along the Ameri- 
can coast, as far as possible, consistent with the cer- 
tainty of preventing the ships being beset by the ice. 
The Plover was then to be secured for the winter in 
some safe and convenient port from whence boat par- 
ties might be dispatched, and the Herald was to return 
and transmit, via Panama, any intelligence necessary 
to England. Great caution was ordered to be observed 
in communicating with the natives in the neighborhood 
of Kotzebue Sound, should that quarter be visited, as 
the people in that part of the country differ in charac- 
ter from the ordinary Esquimaux, in being compara- 
tively a fierce, agile, and suspicious race, well armed 
with knives, &c,, for offense, and prone to attack. 
They were also ordered to take interpreters or guides 
from a small factory of the Russian- American Company 
in ITorton Sound. 

The Plover was safely ensconced for the winter of 
1^4:9-50 in Kotzebue Sound, after the termination of a 
hard season's work. She had, conjointly with the Her- 
ald, discovered to the north of Behring's Strait, two 
islands, and several apparently disconnected patches 
of very elevated ground. Lieut. Pullen had previously 
quitted her off Wainwright Inlet, with four boats, for 
the purpose of prosecuting his adventurous voyage 
along the coast to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, 
where he arrived safely on the 26th of August, after a 
perilous navigation of thirty-two days, but had obtained 
no clue or intelligence regarding the prime object of his 
expedition. At a later date he encountered at Fort 
Simpson, higher up the river. Dr. Rae, and gathered 
fix>m tha*-. gentleman that the party led by him down 
the Coppermine, with the view of crossing over to Yic 
toria or Wollaston Land, had, owing to the unusual 
difficulties created by the more than customary rigor of 
the season, met with entire failure ; the farthest point 
attained being Cape Krusenstern. 

Lieut. Pullen is occupied during the present year in 



VOYAGE OF THE PLOVEE, ETC. 309 

a journey from the moutli of the Mackenzie eastward, 
along the arctic coast, as far as Cape Bathurst, and tliis 
being successfully accomplished, he purposes attempt- 
ing to cross the intervening space to Banks' Land. He 
is furnished with two boats, both open. 

Lieut. W. H. Hooper, one of the party, in a recent 
letter to his father in London, writing from Great Slave 
Lake, under date June 27, 1850, gives»some further de- 
tails of their proceedings. Having had considerable 
trouble and a slight skirmish with some parties of Es- 
quimaux, they were obliged to be continually on the 
watch. At the end of August, the party entered the 
Mackenzie Eiver, and in a few days reached one of the 
Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the Peel Eiver, a 
branch of the Mackenzie, where Commander Pullen 
left Lieut. Hooper and half the party to winter, while 
he proceeded farther up the river to a more important 
post at Fort Simpson. After remaining at Peel's Piver 
station about a fortnight, Mr. Hooper found that his 
party could not be maintained throughout the winter 
there, and in consequence determined on following 
Capt. Pullen, but was only able to reach Fort [N'orman, 
one of his party being frost-bitten on the journey. 
They thence made their way across to Great Bear Lake, 
where they passed the winter, subsisting on fish and 
water. Dr. Pae arrived there as soon as the ice broke 
up, and the party proceeded with him to Fort Simpson. 

On the 20th of June, Command er Pullen and all his 
party left with the company's servants, and the stock of 
furs, on their way to the sea, to embark for England, 
when they were met, on the 25th, by a canoe with Ad- 
miralty dispatches, which caused them to retrace their 
steps ; and they are now on their route by the Great 
Slave Lake to Fort Simpson, and down the Mackenzie 
once more, to the Polar Sea, in search of Sir John 
Franklin. 

"However grieving," Lieut. Hooper adds, "it is to 
be disappointed of returning home, yet I am neverthe- 
less delighted to go again, and think that we do not 
hopelessly undertake another search, since our intended 



310 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYERY. 

direction is considered the most probable channel for 
finding the missing ships or crews. We go down the 
Mackenzie, along the coast eastward to Point Bathurst, 
and thence strike across to Wollaston or Banks' Land. 
The season will, of course, much influence our proceed- 
ings ; but we shall probably return uj) the hitherto 
unexplored river which runs into the Arctic Ocean 
from Liverpool • Bay, between the Coppermine and 
Mackenzie." 

The latest official dispatch from Commander PuUen 
is dated Great Slave Lake, June 28th. He had been 
stopped by the ice, and intended returning to Fort 
Simpson on the 29th. One of his boats was so battered 
about as to be perfectly useless ; he intended patching 
up the other, and was also to receive a new boat be- 
longing to the Hudson's Bay Company, from Fort 
Simpson. He had dismissed two of his party, as they 
were both suifering from bad health, but proposed en- 
gaging, at Fort Good Hope, two Hare Indians as hunt- 
ers and guides, one of whom had accompanied Messrs. 
Dease and Simpson on their trips of discovery in 1838 
and 1839. This would augment the party to seventeen 
persons in all. 

" M}^ present intentions," he says, " are to proceed 
down the Mackenzie, along the coast, to Cape Bathurst, 
and then strike across for Banks' Land ; my operations 
must then, of course be guided by circumstances, but I 
shall strenuously endeavor to search along all coasts in 
that direction as far and as late as I can with safety 
venture ; returning, if possible, by the Mackenzie, or 
by the Beghoola, which the Indians speak of as being 
navigable, as its head waters are, (according to Sir John 
Richardson,) only a nine-days' passage from Fort Good 
Hope ; to meet which, or a similar contingency, I take 
snow shoes and sledges, &c. 

" In conclusion, I iDeg to assure their Lordships of 
my earnest determination to carry out their views to 
the utmost of my ability, being confident, from the 
eagerness of the party, that no pains will be spared, no 
necessary labor avoided, and, by God's blessing, we 



VOYAGE OF THE PLOVER, ETC. 311 

hope to be successful in discovering some tidings of our 
gallant countrymen, or even in restoring them to their 
native land and anxious relatives." 

Mr. Chief Factor Kae was about to follow Com- 
munder PuUen and his party from Portage La Loche. 

Dr. Eichardson observes that " Commander Pullen 
will require to be fully victualed for at least 120 days 
from the 20th of July, when he may be expected to 
commence his sea voyage ; which, for sixteen men, will 
require forty-five bags of pemmican of 90 lbs. each. 
This is exclusive of a further supply which he ought to 
take for the relief of any of Franklin's people he may 
have the good fortune to find. After he leaves the 
main-land at Cape Bathurst, he would have no chance 
of killing deer till he makes Banks' Land, or some in- 
tervening island ; and he must provide for the chance 
of being caught on the floe ice, and having to make his 
way across by the very tedious portages, as fully de- 
scribed by Sir W. E. Parry in the narative of his most 
adventurous boat voyage north of Spitzbergen. 

" Mr. Kae can give Commander Pullen the fullest 
information respecting the depots of pemmican made 
on the coast. 

" With respect to Commander Pullen's return from 
sea, his safest plan will be to make for the Mackenzie ; 
but should circumstances place that out of his power, 
the only other course that seems to me to be practicable 
is for him to ascend a large river which falls into the 
bottom of Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Ba- 
thurst. This river, which is named the Begloola Dessy 
by the Indians, runs parallel to the Mackenzie, and in 
the latitude of Fort Good Hope, {66'' 30' IST.,) is not 
above five or six days' journey from that post. Hare 
Indians, belonging to Fort Good Hope, might be en 
gaged to hunt on the banks of the river till the arrival 
of the party. The navigation of the river is unknown ; 
but even should Commander Pullen be compelled to 
quit his boats, his Indian hunters, (of which he should 
at least engage two for his sea ' voyage,) will support 
and guide his party. "Wood and animals are most cer- 
tainly found on the banks of rivers. 



312 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEEY. 

"It is not likely that under any circumstances Com- 
mander Pullen should desire to reach the Mackenzie 
by way of the Coppermine River, and this could be 
effected only by a boat being placed at Dease River, 
for the transport of the party over Great Bear Lafce. 
This would require to be arranged previously with 
Mr. Rae ; and Commander Pullen should not be 
later in arriving at Fort Confidence than the end of 
September." 

Voyage of the " Lady Feanklin " and " Sophia," 
Government Yessels, under the commlotd of Me. 
Penny, 1850-51. 

A vessel of 230 tons, named the Lady Franklin, fit- 
ted out at Aberdeen, with a new brig as a tender, built 
at Dundee, and named the Sophia, in honor of Miss 
S. Cracroft, the beloved and attached niece of Lady 
Franklin, and one of the most anxious watchers for 
tidings of the long missing adventurers, were purchased 
by the government last year. 

The charge of this expedition was intrusted to Cap- 
tain Penny, formerly commanding the Advice whaler, 
and who has had much experience in the icy seas, hav- 
ing been engaged twenty-eight years, since the age of 
twelve, in the whaling trade, and in command of ves- 
sels for fourteen years ; Mr. Stewart was placed in 
charge of the Sophia. 

The crew of the Lady Franklin number twenty-five, 
and that of the Sophia, twenty, all picked men. 

These ships sailed on the 12th of April, 1850, pro- 
visioned and stored for three years. They were pro- 
vided with a printing press, and every appliance to 
relieve the tedium of a long sojourn in the icy regions. 

In the instructions issued by the Admiralty, it is 
stated that in accepting Captain Parry's offer of service, 
regard has been had to his long experience* in arctic 
navigation, and to the great attention he has paid to 
the subject of the missing ships. 

He was left in a great measure to the exercise of his 



VOYAGE OF THE KESOLUTE AKD ASSISTAKCE, ETC. 313 

^wn judgment and discretion, in combining the most 
active and energetic search after the Erebns and Terror, 
with a strict and careful regard to the safety of the 
ships and their crews under his charge. He was di- 
rected to examine Jones' Sound at the head of Baffin's 
Bay, and if possible, penetrate through to the Parry 
Islands ; failing in this, he was to try W ellington Strait, 
and endeavor to reach Melville Island. He was to use 
his utmost endeavors, (consistent with the safety of the 
lives of those intrusted to his command,) to succor, in 
the summer of 1850, the party under Sir John Frank- 
lin, taking care to secure his winter-quarters in good 
time ; and 2dly, the same*active measures were to be 
used in the summer of 1851, to secure the return of the 
ships under his charge to this country. 

The Lady Franklin was off Cape York, in. Baffin's 
Bay, on the 13th of August. From thence she pro- 
ceeded, in company wdth H. M. S. Assistance, to Wol- 
stenholme Sound. She afterward, in accordance with 
her instructions, crossed over to the west with the in- 
tention of examining Jones' Sound, but owing to the 
accumulation of ice, was unable to approach it within 
twenty-five miles. This was at midnight on the 18th, 
She, therefore, continued her voyage to Lancaster 
Sound, and onward to "Wellington Channel, where she 
was seen by Commander Forsyth, of the Prince Albert, 
)n the 25th of August, with her tender, and H. M. S. 
Assistance in company, standing toward Cape Hotham. 

V"oYAGE OF H. M. Ships " Eesoltjte " ai^d " Assistance," 

WITH THE SlEAMEES " PlONEEE " AND "InTEEPID'* 

AS Tenders, under command of Captain Austin, 
1850-51. 

Two fine teak-built ships of about 600 tons each, the 
Baboo and Ptarmigan, whose names were altered to 
the Assistance and Resolute, were purchased by the 
government in 1850, and sent to the naval yards to be 
oroperly fitted for the voyage to the polar regions. 

Two screw-propeller steamers, intended to Accompany 



314: PKOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

these vessels as steam tenders, were also purchased and 
similarly fitted ; their names were changed from the 
Eider and Free Trade to the Pioneer and Intrepid. 

The command of this expedition was intrusted to 
Captain Horatio T. Austin, 0. B., who was first Lieu- 
tenant of the Fury, under Commander Hoppner, in 
Captain Sir E. Parry's third voyage, in 1824-25. The 
vessels were provisioned for three years, and their at- 
tention was also directed to the depots of stores lodged 
by Sir James Eoss at Leopold Island, and at JSTavy 
Board Inlet by the Korth Star. The ships sailed in 
May, 1850. The officers employed in them were as 
follows ; — 

JResolute, 
Captain — Horatio T. Austin, C. B. 
Lieutenants — R. D. Aldrich, and W". H. J. Browne. 
Mates — R. B. Pearse, and W. M. May. 
Purser — J. E. Brooman. 
Surgeon — A. R. Bradford. 
Assistant, ditto — Richard King. 
Midshipmen — C. Bullock, J. P. Cheyne* 
Second Master — G. F. M'Dougall. 

Total complement, 60 men. 

Pioneer^ screw steamer. 

Lieut.-Commanding — Sherard Osbom. 
Second Master — J. H. AUard. 
Assistant-Surgeon — F. R. Picthom. 

Assistance. 
Captain — E. Ommaney. 
Lieutenants — J. E. Elliot, F. L. M'Clintock, and 

G. F. Mecham. 
Surgeon — J. J. L. Donnett. 
Assistant, ditto — J. Ward, {a) 
Mates — R. Y. Hamilton, and J. R. Keane. 
Clerk in Charge — E. IST. Harrison. 
Second Master — W. B. Shellabear. 
Midshipman — C. R. Markham. 

Total complement, 60 men. 



, ETC. 315 

Intrepid^ screw steamer. 
Lieut.-Commander — B. Cator. 
Each of the tenders had a crew of 30 men. 

Two ot the officers appointed to this expedition, Lien- 
tenants Browne and M'Clintock, were in the Enterprise 
under Captain Sir James C. Ross in 1848. 

The Emma Eugenia transport was dispatched in ad- 
vance with provisions to the Whale-Fish Islands, to await 
the arrival of the expedition. 

It having been suggested by some parties that Sir 
John Franklin might have effected his passage to Mel- 
ville Island, and been detained there with his ships, 
or that the ships might have been damaged by the ice 
in the neighboring sea, and that with his crews he had 
abandoned them and made his escape to that island, 
Captain Austin was specially instructed to use every 
exertion to reach this island, detaching a portion of his 
ships to search the shores of Wellington Channel and 
the coast about Cape Walker, to which point Sir John 
Franklin was ordered to proceed. 

Advices were first received from the Assistance, after 
her departure, dated 5th of July ; she was then making 
her way to the northward. The season was less favor- 
able for exploring operations than on many previous 
years. But little ice had been met with in Davis' 
Strait, where it is generally found in large quantities, 
so that obstacles of a serious nature may be expected 
to the northward. Penny's ships had been in company 
with them. 

Ice is an insurmountable barrier to rapid progress ; 
fortifications may be breached, but huge masses of ice, 
200 to 600 feet high, are not to be overcome. 

On the 2d of July the Assistance was towed beneath 
a perpendicular clifi" to the northward of Cape Shackle- 
ton, rising to the height of 1500 feet, which was ob- 
served to be crowded with the foolish guillemots, ( Uria 
troile.) When the ship hooked on to an iceberg for the 
night, a party sent on shore for the purpose brought off 
260 birds and about twenty dozen of their eggs. These 
birds only lay one egg each. 



316 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVKRY. 

The following official dispatch has been since received 
from Captain Ommaney : — 

^^ Her Majesty^ 8 ship ''Assistance^ off Lancaster Sounds 

latitude -rs" 46' iT., longitude 75° 49' TF"., August 

IT, 1850. 

" SiE, — I have the honor to acquaint yon, for the in- 
formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi- 
ralty, that her Majesty's ship Assistance, and her tender, 
her Majesty's steam-vessel Intrepid, have this day suc- 
ceeded in effecting a passage across to the west water, 
and are now proceeding to Lancaster Sound. Officers 
and crews all well, with fine clear weather, and open 
water as far as can be seen. 

" Agreeably with instructions received from Captain 
H. Austin, we parted company on the 15th instant, at 
one A. M., off Cape Dudley Diggs, as the ice was then 
sufficiently open to anticipate no farther obstruction in 
effecting the north passage. He was anxious to proceed 
to Pond's Bay, and thence take up the examination along 
the south shores of Lancaster Sound, leaving me to 
ascertain the truth of a report obtained from the Esqui- 
maux at Cape York respecting some ship or ships hav- 
ing been seen near Wolstenholme Island, after which to 
proceed to the north shores of Lancaster Sound and 
Wellington Channel. 

" On passing Cape York, (the 14:th inst.,) natives were 
Been. By the directions of Captain Austin I landed, 
and communicated with them, when we were informed 
that they had seen a ship in that neighborhood in the 
spring, and that she was housed in. Upon this intelli- 
gence I shipped one of the natives, who volunteered to 
join us as interpreter and guide. 

" On parting with Captain Austin we proceeded 
toward Wolstenholme Island, where I left the ship and 
proceeded in her Majesty's steam- vessel Intrepid into 
Wolstenholme Sound, and by the guidance of the Esqui- 
maux, succeeded in finding a bay about thirteen miles 
further in, and sheltered by a prominent headland. In 
the cairns erected here we found a document stating 



Voyage of the resolute and assistance, etc. 317 

that the E"orth Star had wintered in the bay, a copy 
of which I have the honor to transmit to their Lord- 
ships. 

" Previous to searching the spot where the ITorth Star 
wintered, I examined the deserted Esquimaux settle- 
ment. At this spot we found evident traces of some 
ship having been in the neighborhood, from empty pre- 
served meat canisters and some clothes left near a pool 
of water, marked with the name of a corporal belonging 
to the [N'orth Star. 

" Having ascertained this satisfactory information, I 
returned to Wolstenholme Island, where a document was 
deposited recording our proceedings. At 6 a. m., of the 
16th inst., I rejoined the ship, and proceeded at two to 
the westward, and am happy to inform you that the 
passage across has been made without obstruction, tow- 
ing through loose and straggling ice. 

" The expedition was beset in Melville Bay, sur- 
rounded by heavy and extensive floes of ice, from the 
11th of July to the 9th of August, 1850, when, after 
great exertion, a release was effected, and we succeeded 
in reaching Cape York by continuing along the edge of 
the land-ice, after which we have been favored with 
plenty of water. 

" Captain Penny's expedition was in company during 
the most part of the time while in Melville Bay, and up 
to the 14th inst., when we left him off Cap6 Dudley 
Diggs — all well. 

" In crossing Melville Bay we fell in with Sir John 
Eoss and Captain Forsyth's expeditions. These Capt. 
Austin has assisted by towing them toward their desti- 
nations. The latter proceeded with him, and the former 
has remained with us. 

" Having placed Sir John Ross in a fair way of 
reaching Lancaster Sound, with a fair wind and open 
water, his vessel has been cast off in this position. I 
shall, therefore, proceed with all dispatch to the exami- 
nation of the north shores of Lancaster Sound and 
Wellington Channel, according to Captain Austin's 
directions. 



318 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

"I have the honor to be, Sir, your most ohedient 
humble servant. 

"Erasmus Ommaney, Captain." 

The Kesolute got clear of the Orkneys on the 15th of 
May, and arrived with her consort and the two tenders 
at the Whale-Fish Islands on the 14th of June. 

The Eesolute was in Possession Bay on the 17th of 
August. From thence her proposed course was along 
the coast, northward and westward, to Whaler Pointy 
situated at the southern extremity of Port Leopold, and 
afterward to Melville Island. 

In order to amuse themselves and their comrades, the 
officers of the Assistance had started a MS. newspaper, 
under the name of the " Aurora Borealis." Many of 
my readers will have heard of the " Cockpit Herald," 
and such other productions of former days, in his Majes- 
ty's fleet. Parry, too, liad his journal to beguile the 
long hours of the tedious arctic winter. 

I have seen copies of this novel specimen of the 
'fourth estate," dated Baffin's Bay, June, 1850, in which 
there is a happy mixture of grave and gay, prose and 
verse ; numerous very fair acrostics are published. I 
append, by way of curiosity, a couple of extracts : — 

" What insect that IN'oah had with him, were these 
regions named after ? — The arc-tic." 

" To the editor of the Aurora Borealis, 
" Sir, — Having heard from an arctic voyager that he 
has seen ' crows'-nests' in those icy regions, I beg to 
inquire through your columns, if they are built by the 
crows, {Gorvus tintinnahitlus^ which Good sir states to 
utter a metallic bell-like croak? My fast friend begs 
me to inquire when rook shooting commences in those 
diggings ? 

" A ]S"aturaijst. 
[" We would recommend to ' A ITaturalist ' a visit to 
these ' crows'-nests,' which do exist in the arctic regions. 
We would also advise his fast friend to investigate 



VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN EOSS IN THE FELIX, ETC. 319 

these said nests more thoroughly; he would find them 
tenanted by very old birds (ice quarter-masters,) who 
would not only inform him as to the species of crows 
and the sporting season, but would give them a fair 
chance of showing him how a pigeon may be plucked. 
— Editok."] 

VoYAG® OF Captain Sie John Eoss in the "Felix" 
PRIVATE Schooner, 1850-51. 

In April, 1850, Captain Sir John Hoss having vol- 
unteered his services to proceed in the search, was en- 
abled, by the liberality of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
who contributed 500Z., and public subscription, to leave 
England in the Felix schooner, of 120 tons, with a 
picked crew, and accompanied by Commander C. Ger- 
vans Phillips, K. N. She also had the Mary, Sir John's 
own yacht of twelve tons, as a tender. Mr. Abernethy 
proceeded as ice-master, having accompanied Sir John 
in his former voyage to Boothia; and Mr. Sivewright 
was mate of the Felix. The vessels sailed from Scot- 
land on the 23d of May, and reached Holsteinborg in 
June, where Captain Ross succeeded in obtaining a 
Danish interpreter who understood the Esquimaux 
language; he then proceeded on, calling at the Whale- 
Fish Islands, and passing northway through the "Way- 
gatt Strait, overtook, on the 10th of August, H. M. 
ships Assistance and Resolute, with their tenders the 
Intrepid and Pioneer, under the command of Captain 
Austin. 

On the 13th of August, Captain Ommaney in the 
Assistance, and Sir John Eoss in the Felix, being 
somewhere off Cape York, observed three male Es- 
quimaux on the ice close by, and with these people 
it was prudently resolved to communicate. Accord- 
ingly, Lieutenant Cator in the Intrepid steamer, tender 
to the Assistance, and Commander Phillips in the 
whale-boat of the Felix, put off on this service. The 
Intrepid's people arrived first, but apparently without 
any means of expressing their desires, so that when the 



320 proge:ess of aectio discovery. 

boat of the Felix, containing an Esquimaux interpreter, 
joined the party, the natives immediately gave signs 
of recognition and satisfaction, came into the boat with- 
out the least hesitation, and engaged themselves pre- 
^sently in a long and animated conversation with their 
countryman the interpreter. Half an hour was de- 
voted to this interchange of intelligence, but with no 
immediate result, for the interpreter could only trans- 
late his native language into Danish, and as no person 
in the boat understood Danish, the information re- 
mained as inaccessible as before. In this predicament 
the boats returned with the intention of confronting the 
interpreter — whose christianized name is Adam Beek 
— with Sir John Ross himself. As Sir John, however, 
was pushing ahead in the Felix toward Cape Dudley 
Diggs, and as Adam appeared anxious to disburden 
himself of his newly acquired information, the boats 
dropped on board the Prince Albert, another of the 
exploring vessels in the neighborhood, and there put 
Adam in communication with the captain's steward, 
John Smith, who "understood a little of the language," 
as Sir John Ross says, or "a good deal," as Com- 
mander Phillips says, and who presently gave such an 
account of the intelligence as startled every body on 
board. Its purport was as follows; — ^That in the win- 
ter of 184:6, when the snow was falling, two ships were 
crushed by the ice a good way off in the direction of 
Cape Dudley Diggs, and afterward burned by a fierce 
and numerous tribe of natives ; that the ships in ques- 
tion were not whalers, and that epaulettes were worn 
by some of the white men ; that a part of the crews 
were drowned, that the remainder were some time in 
huts or tents apart from the natives, that they had guns, 
but no balls, and that being in a weak and exhausted 
condition, they were subsequently killed by the natives 
with darts or arrows. This was the form given to the 
Esquimaux story by John Smith, captain's steward of 
the Prince Albert. Impressed with the importance of 
these tidings, Captain Ommaney and Commander 
Phillips immediately made their report to Captain 



ETC. 321 

Austin in the Resolute, which was then in company 
with the Felix near Cape Dudley Diggs. Captain Aus- 
tin at once decided upon investigating the credibility 
of the story, and with this view dispatched a message 
to the Lady Franklin, another of the exploring ships, 
which lay a few miles off, and which had on board a 
regular Danish interpreter. This interpreter duly ar- 
rived, but proceeded forthwith to translate the story by 
a statement "totally at variance" with the interpreta- 
tion of " the other," whom, as we are told, he called a 
liar and intimidated into silence ; though no sooner was 
the latter left to himself than he again repeated his 
version of the tale, and stoutly maintained its accuracy. 
Meantime an additional piece of information became 
known, namely, that a certain ship had passed the win- 
ter safely housed in Wolstenholme Sound — a state- 
ment soon ascertained by actual investigation to be 
perfectly true. The following is an extract of a letter 
from — 

Captain Sir John Boss^ B. iV., to Captain W. A.B. 
Hamilton^ B. iT., Secretary of the Admiralty, 

" ' Felix ' discovery yacht ^ off Admiralty Inlet ^ 
" Lancaster Sound ^ August 22. 

"Sm, — I have to acquaint you, for the information 
of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that the 
Felix discovery yacht, with her tender, the Mary, after 
obtaining an Esquimaux interpreter at Ilolsteinborg, 
and calling at Whale-Fish Islands, proceeded northway 
through the Waygatt Straits, and overtook her Ma- 
jesty's discovery ships, under the command of Captain 
Austin on the 11th of August ; and on the 12th the 
senior officer and the second in command having cor- 
dially communicated with me on the best mode of 
performing the service on which we are mutually em- 
barked, arrangements were made and concluded for a 
simultaneous examination of every part of the eastern 
side of a northwest passage in which it was probable 
that the missina: ships could be bound : documents tf> 

21 



322 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

tHat effect were exchanged, and subsequently assented 
to by Captains Forsyth and Penny. 

" On the 13th of August natives were discovered on 
the ice near to Cape York, with whom it was deemed 
advisable to communicate. On this service. Lieutenant 
Cator, in the Intrepid, was detached on the part of 
Captain Austin, and on my part Commander Phillips, 
with our Esquimaux interpreter, in the whale-boat of 
the Felix. It was found by Lieutenant Cator that Cap- 
tain Penny had left with the natives a note for Captain 
Austin, but only relative to the state of the navigation; 
however, when Commander Phillips arrived, the Esqui- 
maux, seeing one apparently of their own nation in the 
whale-boat, came immediately to him, when a long 
conversation took place, the purport of which could 
not be made known, as the interpreter could not ex- 
plain himself to any one, either in the Intrepid or the 
whale-boat, (as he understands only the Danish besides 
his own language,) until he was brought on board the 
Prince Albert, where John Smith, the captain's stew- 
ard of that vessel, who had been some years at the 
Hudson's Bay settlement of Churchill, and understands 
a little of the language, was able to give some expla- 
nation of Adam Peek's information, which was deemed 
of such importance that Captains Ommaney, Phillips, 
and Forsyth, proceeded in the Intrepid to the Pesolute, 
when it was decided by Captain Austin to send for the 
Danish Interpreter of the Lady Franklin, which, hav- 
ing been unsuccessful in an attempt at getting through 
the ice to the westward, was only a few miles distant. 
In the mean time it was known that, in addition to the 
first information, a ship, which could only be the Noi-th 
Star, had wintered in Wolstenholme Sound, called by 
the natives Ourinak, and had only left it a month ago. 
Tliis proved to be true, but the interpretation of the 
Dane was totally at variance with the information given 
by the other, who, although for obvious reasons he did 
not dare to contradict the Dane, subsequently main- 
tained the truth of his statement, whicli induced Cap- 
tain Austin to dispatch the Intrepid with Captains 



VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN KOSS IN THE FELIX, ETC. 823 

Ommaney and Phillips, taking with them both onr in- 
terpreters, Adam Beek and a young, native who had 
been persuaded to come as one of the crew of the As- 
sistance, to examine Wolstenholme Sound. In the 
mean time it had been nnffnimously decided that no 
alteration should be made in our previous arrangement, 
it being obvious that while there remained a chance of 
saving the lives of those of the missing ships who may 
be yet alive, a further search for those who had per- 
ished should be postponed, and accordingly the Reso- 
lute, Pioneer, and Prince Albert parted company on 
the 15th. It is here unnecessary to give the official re- 
ports made to me by Commander Phillips, which are 
of course transmitted by me to the Secretary of the 
Hudson's Bay Company, which, with the information 
written in the Esquimaux language by Adam lieek, 
will no doubt be sent to you for their Lordships' infor- 
mation ; and it will be manifest by these reports that 
Commander Phillips has performed his duty with sa- 
gacity, circumspection, and address, which do him in- 
finite credit, although it is only such as I must have 
expected from so intelligent an officer; and I have 
much satisfaction in adding that it has been mainly 
owing to his zeal and activity that I was able, under 
disadvantaj^eoiis circumstances, to overtake her Majes- 
ty's ships, vvaiie by his scientific acqinrements and ac- 
curacy in surveying, he has been able to make many 
important corrections and valuable additions to the 
charts of the much-frequented eastern side of Baffin's 
Bay, which has been more closely observed and navi- 
gated by us than by any former expedition, and, much 
to my satisfaction, confirming the latitude aud longi- 
tude of every headland I had an opportunity of laying 
down in the year 1818. 

"I have only to add that I have much satisfaction 
in co-operating with her Majesty's expedition. With 
such support and with such vessels so particularly 
adapted for the service, no exertion shall be wanting 
on my part. But I cannot conclude this letter without 
acknowledging my obligations to Commodore Austin 



324 



PEOGEESS OF AEfJTIC DISCOVERY. 



and Captain Ommaney for the assistance they have af- 
forded me, and for the cordiality and courtesy with 
which I have been treated by these distinguished offi- 
cers and others of tlie shjj^s under their orders. Ani- 
mated as we are with an ardent and sincere desire to 
rescue our imperiled countrymen, I confidently trust 
>hat our united exertions and humble endeavors may, 
.mder a merciful Providence, be completely successful. 
"I am, with truth and regard, Sir, your faithful and 
v^b^dient servant, 

"John Ross, Captain, E. IT." 

By the accounts brought home by Commander For- 
syth from Lancaster Sound, to the 25th of August, it 
is stated that Sir John Ross, in the Felix, intended to 
return to England. 

The ice was at that period very heavy, extending all 
around from Leopold Island, at the entrance of Regent 
Inlet, to Cape Farewell, to the westward, so as to pre- 
vent the possibility of any of the vessels pushing on to 
Cape "Walker. When the Prince Albert was between 
Cape Spencer and Cape Innes, in Wellington Channel, 
Mr. Snow went at noon to the mast-head, and saw H. 
M. Ship Assistance as near as possible within Cape 
Hotham, under a press of sail. Her tender, the In- 
trepid, was not seen, but was believed to be with her. 
Captain Penny, with his two ships, the Lady Franklin 
and Sophia, was endeavoring to make his way up the 
same Channel, but it was feared the ice would ulti- 
mately be too strong for him, and that he would have 
to return home, leaving Captain Austin's squadron only 
to winter in the ice. 

The American man-of-war brig Rescue was close be- 
set with the ice near Cape Bowen. 

The Pioneer was with the Resolute on the 17th 
August. 



LADY franklin's APPEAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 325 
A tERICAN SeAECHING EXPEDITION. TJnITED StATES' 

jShips, ''Advance" and ''Rescue," under the Com- 
mand OF Lieutenant De Haven, 1850-51. 

In the spring of 1849, Lady Franklin made a toiicli- 
ing and pathetic appeal to the feelings of the American 
nation, in the following letter to the President of the 
Republic : — 

The Lady of Sir John Franklin to the President. 

'•^ Bedford-place^ London^ Uh Aprils 1849. 

"Sir, — I address myself to you as the head of a 
great nation, whose power to help me I cannot doubt, 
and in whose disposition to do so I have a confidence 
which I trust you will not deem presumptuous. 

"The name of my husband. Sir John Franklin, is 
probably not unknown to you. It is intimately con- 
nected with the northern part of that continent of 
which the American republic forms so A^ast and con- 
spicuous a portion. When I visited the United States 
three years ago, among the many proofs I received of 
respect and courtesy, there was none which touched 
and even surprised me more than the appreciation 
everywhere expressed to me of his former services in 
geographical discovery, and the interest felt in the en- 
terprise in which he was then known to be engaged." 

* * -K- •«• * 

[Her ladyship here gives the details of the departure 
of the expedition, and the measures already taken for 

its relief.] 

* * * * « 

"I have entered into these details with the view of 
proving that, though the British government has not 
forgotten the duty it owes to the brave men whom it 
has sent on a perilous service, and has spent a very 
large sum in providing the means for their rescue, yet 
that, owing to various causes, the means actually in 
operation for this purpose are quite inadequate to meet 
the extreme exigence of the case; for, it mast be 



826 PKOGEESS O^ AECTIC DISCOYEEY. 

remembered, that the missing ships were victualed for 
three years only, and that nearly four years have now 
elapsed, so that the survivors of so many winters in the 
ice must be at the last extremity. And also, it must 
be borne in mind, that the channels by which the ships 
may have attempted to force a passage to the westward, 
or which they may have been compelled, by adverse 
circumstances, to take, are very numerous and compli- 
cated, and that one or two ships cannot possibly, in the 
course of the next short summer, explore them all. 

" The Board of Admiralty, under a conviction of this 
fact, has been induced to offer a reward of 20,000^. 
sterling to any ship or shijDS, of any country, or to any 
exploring party whatever, which shall render efficient 
assistance to the missing ships, or their crews, or to any 
portion of them. This announcement, which, even if 
the sum had been doubled or trebled, would have met 
with public approbation, comes, however, too late for 
our whalers, which had unfortunately sailed before it 
was issued, and which, even if the news should over- 
take them at their fishing-grounds, are totally unntted 
for any prolonged adventure, having only a few months' 
provision on board, and no additional clothing. To the 
American 'Whalers, both in the Atlantic and Pacific, I 
look with more hope, as competitors for the prize, be- 
ing well aware of their numbers and strength, their 
thorough equipment, and the bold spirit of enterprise 
which animates their crews. But I venture to look 
even beyond these. I am not without hope that you 
will deem it not unworthy of a great and kindred na- 
tion to take up the cause of humanity which I plead, in 
a national spirit, and thus generously make it your own. 

" I must here, in gratitude, adduce the example of 
the imperial llussian government, which, as I am led 
to hope by his Excellency, the Russian embassador in 
London, who forwarded a memorial on the subject, will 
send out exploring parties this summer, from the Asiatic 
Bide of Behring's Strait, northward, in search of the 
lost vessels. It would be a noble spectacle to the 
world, if three great nations, possessed of the widest 



AlIEKICAK' NATION. 327 

empires on the face of tlie globe, were thus to unite 
their efforts in the truly christian work of saving their 
perishing fellow-men from destruction. 

"It is not for me to suggest the mode in which such 
benevolent efforts might best be made. 1 will only say^ 
however, that if the conceptions of my own mind, to 
which I do not venture to give utterance, were realized, 
and that in the noble competition which followed, Am.er- 
ican seamen had the good fortune to wrest from us the 
glory, as might be the case, of solving the problem of 
the unfound passage, or the still greater glory of saving 
our adventurous navigators from a lingering fate which 
the mind sickens to dwell on, though 1 should in either 
case regret that it was not my own brave countrymen 
in those seas whose devotion was thus rewarded, yet 
should I rejoice that it was to America we owed our 
restored happiness, aiid should be forever bound to her 
by ties of affectionate gratitude. 

"I am not without some misgivings while I thus ad- 
dress you. The intense anxieties of a wife and of a 
daughter may have led me to press too earnestly on 
your notice the trials under which we are suffering, 
(yet not we only, but hundreds of others,) and to pre- 
sume too much on the sympathy which we are assured 
is felt beyond the limits of our own land.. "Yet, if 
you deem this to be the case, you will still find, I am 
sure, even in that personal intensity of feeling, an 
excuse for the fearlessness wifh which I have throwit 
myself on your generosity, and will pardon the hone? 
age I thus pay to your own high character, and to thx^' 
of the people over whom you have the distinction U 
preside. " I have, &c., 

(Signed) "Jai^ Feanexih-." 

T(^ which the following reply was received : — 

Mr, Clay ion to Lady Jane FranTdin. 

^'' Dejoartment of State^ Washington^ 
" ^^th April, 1849. 

"Madam, — ^Your letter to the President of the United 
States, dated April 4th, 1849, has been received by 



328 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

Lim, and tie has instructed me to make to you the fol- 
lowing reply : — 

" The appeal made in the letter with which you have 
honored him, is such as would strongly enlist the sym- 
pathy of the rulers and the people of any portion of 
the civilized world. 

" To the citizens of the United States, who share so 
largely in the emotions which agitate the public mind 
in your own country, the name of Sir John Franklin 
has been endeared by his heroic virtues, and the suffer- 
ings and sacrifices which he has encountered for the 
benefit of mankind. The appeal of his wife and daugh- 
ter, in their distress, has been borne across the waters, 
asking the assistance of a kindred people to save the 
brave men who embarked in this unfortunate expedi- 
tion ; and the people of the United States, who have 
watched with the deepest interest that hazardous enter- 
prise, will now respond to that appeal, by the expression 
of their united wishes that every proper effort may be 
made by this government for the rescue of your hus- 
band and his companions. 

" To accomplish the objects you have in view, the 
attention of American navigators, and especially of 
our whalers, will be immediately invoked. All the in- 
formation in the possession of this government, to 
enable them to aid in discovering the missing ships, 
relieving their crews and restoring them to their fami- 
lies, shall be spread far and wide among our people ; 
and all that the executive government of the United 
States, in the exercise of its constitutional powers, can 
effect, to meet this requisition on American enterprise, 
skill and bravery, will be promptly undertaken. 

" The hearts of the American people will be deeply 
touched by your eloquent address to their Chief Magis- 
trate, and they will join with you in an earnest prayer 
to Him whose spirit is on the waters, that your husband 
and his companions may yet be restored to their coun- 
try and their friends. 

" I have, &c., 
(Signed) " John M. Clayton." 



LADY FEAJSTEXIN'S APPEAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 329 

A second letter was also addressed by Lady Franklin 
to the President in the close of that year, after the forced 
return of Captain Sir James Ross, from whose active 
exertions so much had been expected — 

The Lady of Sir John FravMin to the President. 
" Spring Gardens^ London^ 11th Deo.^ 1849. 

"Sir, — I had the honor of addressing myself to 
you, in the month of April last, in behalf of my hus- 
band, Sir John Franklin, his officers and crews, who 
were sent by Her Majesty's government, in the spring 
of 1845, on a maritime expedition for a discovery of 
the northwest passage, and who have never since been 
heard of. 

"Their mysterious fate has excited, I believe, the 
deepest interest throughout the civilized world, but no- 
where more so, not even in England itself, than in the 
United States of America. It was under a deep con- 
viction of this fact, and with the humble hope that an 
appeal to those general sentiments would never be 
made altogether in vain, that I ventured to lay before 
you the necessities of that critical period, and to ask 
you to take up the cause of humanity which I pleaded, 
and generously make it your own. 

" How nobly you, sir, and the American people, 
responded to that appeal, — how kindly and courteously 
that response was conveyed to me, — is known wherever 
our common language is spoken or understood ; and 
though difficulties, which were mainly owing to the 
advanced state of the season, presented themselves after 
your official announcement had been made known to our 
government, and prevented the immediate execution of 
your intentions, yet the generous pledge you had given 
was not altogether withdrawn, and hope still remained 
to me that, should the necessity for renewed measures 
continue to exist, I might look again across the waters 
for the needed succor. 

"A period has now, alas, arrived, when our dearest 
hopes as to the safe return of the discovery ships this 
autumn are finally crushed by the unexpected, though 



830 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DI6C0VEEY. 

forced return of Sir James Eoss, without any tidings of 
them, and also by the close of the arctic season. And 
not only have no tidings been brought of their safety or 
of their fate, but even the very traces of their course 
have yet to be discovered ; for such was the concur- 
rence of unfortunate and unusual circumstances attend- 
ing the efforts of the brave and able officer alluded to, 
that he was not able to reach those points where indi- 
cations of the course of discovery ships would most 
probably be found. And thus, at the close of a second 
(season since the departure of the recent expedition of 
search, we remain in nearly the same state of ignorance 
respecting the missing expedition as at the moment of 
its starting from our shores. And in the mean time our 
brave countrymen, whether clinging still to their ships, 
or dispersed in various directions, have entered upon a 
fifth winter in those dark and dreary solitudes, with 
exhausted means of sustenance, while yet their expected 
succor comes not ! 

" It is in the time, then, of their greatest peril, in the 
day of their extremest need, that I venture, encouraged 
by your former kindness, to look to you again for some 
active efforts which may come in aid of those of my 
own country, and add to the means of search. Her 
Majesty's Ministers have already resolved on sending 
an expedition to Behring's Strait, and doubtless have 
other necessary measures in contemplation, supported 
as they are, in every means that can be devised for this 
humane purpose, by the sympathies of the nation, and 
by the generous solicitude which our Queen is known 
to feel in the fate of her brave people imperiled in their 
country's service. But, whatever be the measures con- 
templated by the Admiralty, they cannot be such as 
will leave no room or necessity for more, since it is 
only by the multiplication of means, and those vigorous 
and instant ones, that we can hope, at this last stage, 
and in this last hour, perhaps, of the lost navigators' 
existence, to snatch them from a dreary grave. And 
surely, till the shores and seas of those frozen regions 
have been swept in all directions* or until some memo-% 



LIEtJTENANT OSBOEN's SUGGESTIONS. 831 

rial be found to attest their fate, neither England, who 
sent them out, nor even America, on whose shores they 
have been launched in a cause which has interested the 
world for centuries, will deem the question at rest. 

" May it please God so to move the hearts and wills 
of a great and kindred people, and of their chosen 
Chief Magistrate, that they may join heart and hand 
in the generous enterprise ! The respect and admiration 
of the world, which watches with growing interest every 
movement of your great republic, will follow the chiv- 
alric and humane endeavor, and the blessing of them 
who were ready to perish shall come to you ! 

"I have, &c., 
(Signed) Jane Fkanbxin. 

^^His Excellency the President of the United States^ 

In a very admirable letter addressed to Lady Frank- 
lin in February, 1850, by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, E. IS"., 
occur the following remarks and suggestions, which 
appear to me so explicit and valuable that I publish 
them entire : — 

^^ Great Ealing^ Middlesex^ Qth February^ 1850. 
" My Dear Lady Franklin. — It is of course of vital 
importance that the generous co-operation of the Ameri- 
cans in the rescue of Sir John Franklin and his crews 
be directed to points which call for search, and at the 
same time give them a clear field for the exercise 'of 
their energy and emulation. It would be a pity, for 
instance, if they should be merely working on the same 
ground with ourselves, while extensive portions of the 
Arctic Sea, in which it is equally probable the lost ex- 
pedition may be found, should be left unexamined ; and 
none, in my opinion, offers a better prospect of success- 
ful search than the coasts of Repulse Bay, Hecla and 
Fury Strait, Committee Bay, Felix Harbor, the estuary 
of the Great Fish River, and Simpson's Strait, with the 
sea to the northwest of it. My reasons fdr saying so 
l|re as follows ; — 



332 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYERY. 

" Suppose Sir John Franklin to have so far carried 
out the tenor of his orders as to have penetrated south- 
west from Cape Walker, and to have been either ' cast 
away,' or hopelessly impeded by ice, and that either in 
the past or present year he found it necessary to quit 
his ships, they being anywhere between 100° and 108° 
west longitude, and 70° and Y3° north latitude. Now, 
to retrace his steps to Cape Walker, and thence to Re- 
gent Inlet, would be no doubt the first suggestion that 
would arise. Yet there are objections to it : firstly, he 
would have to contend against the prevailing set of the 
ice, and currents, and northerly wiad ; secondly, if no 
whalers were found in Lancaster Sound, how was he 
to support his large party in regions where the musk 
ox or reindeer is never seen ? thirdly, leaving his 
ships in the summer, he knew he could only reach the 
whaling ground in the fall of the year ; and, in such 
case, would it not be advisable to make rather for 
the southern than the northern limit of the seas vis- 
ited by the whalers ? fourthly, by edging to the south 
rather than the north. Sir John Franklin would be 
falling back to, rather than going from, relief, and in- 
crease the probabilities of providing food for his large 
party. 

" I do not believe he would have decided on going 
due south, because the lofty land of Victoria Island 
was in his road, and when he did reach the American 
shore, he would only attain a desert, of whose horrors 
he no doubt retained a vivid recollection ; and a 
lengthy land journey of more than 1000 miles to the 
Hudson's Bay settlements was more than his men were 
capable of 

" There remains, therefore, but one route for Sir John 
under such circumstances to follow ; and it decidedly 
has the following merits, that of being in a direct line 
for the southern limit of the whale fishery ; that of 
leading through a series of narrow seas adapted for the 
navigation of small open boats ; that of being the most 
expeditious route by which to reach Fort Churchill, in 
Hudson's Bay ; that of leading through a region visited* 



333 

by Esquimaux and migratory animals ; and this route 
is through the ' Strait of Sir James Koss,' across the 
narrow isthmus of Boothia Felix, (which, as you re- 
minded me to-day, was not supposed to exist when Sir 
John Franklin left England, and has been since discov- 
ered,) into the Gulf of Boothia, where he could either 
pass by Hecla and Fury Strait into the fishing-ground 
of Hudson's Strait, or else go southward down Commit- 
tee Bay, across the Rae Isthmus into Eepulse Bay, and 
endeavor from there to reach some vessels in Hudson's 
Bay, or otherwise Fort Churchill. 

" It is not unlikely either, that when Franklin had 
got to the eastern extremity of James Ross's Strait, 
and found the land to be across his path where he had 
expected to find a strait, that his party might have di- 
vided, and the more active portion of them attempted 
to ascend the Great Fish Eiver, where we have Sir 
George Back's authority for supposing they would find, 
close to the arctic shores, abundance of food in fish, 
and herds of reindeer, &c., while the others traveled 
on the road I have already mentioned. 

" To search for them, therefore, on this line of retreat, 
I should think highly essential, and if neglected this 
year, it must be done next ; and if not done by the 
Americans, it ought to be done by us. 

"I therefore suggest the following plan: — Suppose 
a well-equipped expedition to leave America in May, 
and to enter Hudson's Strait, and then divide into two 
divisions. The first division might go northward, 
through Fox's Channel to Hecla and Fury Strait, exam 
ine the shores of the latter carefully, deposit provisions 
at the western extreme, erect conspicuous beacons, and 
proceed to Melville or Felix Harbor, in Boothia, secure 
their vessel or vessels, and dispatch, as soon as circum- 
stances would allow, boat parties across the neck of 
the isthmus into the western waters. Here let them 
divide, and one party proceed through James Koss's 
Strait, carefully examining the coast, and push over sea, 
ice, or land, to the northwest as far as possible. The 
other boat party to examine, the estuary of the Great 



334 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. 

Fish River, and thence proceed T^estward along the 
coast of Simpson's Strait, and, if possible, examine the 
broad bay formed between it and Dease's Strait. 

"The second division, on parting company, might 
pass south of Southampton Island, and coast along fronn 
Chesterfield Inlet northward to Eepulse Bay, a boat 
party with two boats might cross Rae Isthmus into the 
bottom of Committee Bay, with instructions to visit 
both shores of the said bay, and to rendezvous at the 
western entrance of Hecla and Fury Strait. The sec- 
ond division (be it one or more vessels) should then 
pass into Fox's Channel, and turning through Hecla 
and Fury Strait, pick up the boats at the rendezvous ; 
and thence, if the first division have passed on all right, 
and do not require reinforcement, the second division 
should steer northward along the unknown coast, ex- 
tending as far as Cape Kater ; from Cape Kater pro- 
ceed to Leopold Island, and having secured their ships 
there, dispatch boat or traveling parties in a direction 
southwest from Cape Rennell, in North Somerset, be- 
ing in a parallel line to the line of search we shall 
adopt from Cape "Walker, and at the same time it will 
traverse the unknown sea beyond the Islands lately 
observed by Captain Sir James Ross. 

"Some such plan as this would, I think, insuie youi 
gallant husband being met or assisted, should he be to 
the south or the west of Cape Walker, and attempt to 
return by a southeast course, a direction which, I think, 
others as well as myself would agree in thinking a verj 
rational and probable one. 

"I will next speak of an argument which has been 
brought forward in consequence of no traces of the 
missing expedition having been discovered in Lancas- 
ter Sound ; that it is quite possible, if Franklin failed 
in getting through the middle ice from Melville Bay to 
Lancaster Sound, that, sooner than disappoint public 
anxiety and expectation of a profitable result arisin,^ 
from his expedition, he may have turned northward, 
and gone up Smith's Sound ; every mile beyond its en- 
trance was new ground, and therefore a reward to the 



DEBATE m CONGEESS. 335 

discoverer. It likewise brought them nearer the pole, 
and may be they found that open sea of which Baron 
"Wrangel speaks so constantly in his journeys over the 
ice northward from Siberia. 

"It is therefore desirable that some vessels should 
carefully examine the entrance of this sound, and visit 
all the conspicuous headlands for some considerable 
distance within it ; for it ought to be borne in mind, 
that localities perfectly accessible for the purpose of 
erecting beacons, &c., one season, may be quite im- 
practicable the next, and Franklin, late in the season 
and pressed for time, would not have wasted time, scal- 
ing bergs to reach the shore and pile up cairns, of 
which, in all the sanguine hope of success, he could not 
have foreseen the necessity. 

" Should any clue be found to the lost expedition in 
this direction, to follow it up would, of course, be the 
duty of the relieving party, and every thing would de- 
pend necessarily upon the judgment of the commanders. 

"In connection with this line of search, I think a 
small division pf vessels, starting from Spitzbergen, and 
pushing from it in a northwest direction^ might be of 
great service ; for on reference to the chart, it will be 
seen that Spitzbergen is as near the probable position 
of Franklin (if he went north about,) on the east, as 
Behring's Strait is upon the west ; and the probability 
of reaching the me'ridian of 80° west from Spitzbergen 
is equally as good as, if not better than, Behring's Strait, 
and, moreover, a country capable of supporting life 
always in the rear to fall back upon. 

"Sheraed Oseokn, 
"Lieutenant Koyal IS^avy. 

"To Lady Franklin." 

Debate in the Americait Congress. 

The following remarks of honorable members and 
senators, in defense of the bill for carrying out Mr. 
Grinnell's expedition, will explain the gi-ounds on which 
the government countenance was invoked for the noble 
imdertaking : — 



336 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEKY. 

" Mr. Miller, : I prefer that the government should 
have the entire control of this enterprise ; but, Sir, I 
do not think that can be accomplished ; at all events, it 
cannot within the time required to produce the good 
results which are to be hoped from this expedition. It 
is well known to all that the uncertain fate of Sir John 
Franklin and his companions has attracted the attention 
and called forth the sympathies of the civilized world. 
This government, Sir, has been indifferent to the call. 
An application, an appeal was made to this government 
of no ordinary character ; one which was cheerfully 
entertained by the President, and which he was anxiou? 
should be complied with. But it is known to the coun 
try and to the Senate that, although the President had 
eYery disposition to send out an expedition in search 
of Sir John Franklin, it was found upon inquiry that 
we had no ships fitted for the occasion, and that the 
Executive had no authority to procure them for an ex- 
pedition of this kind, and suitable for this sort of navi- 
gation. The Executive was therefore obliged, for want 
of authority to build the ships, to forego further action 
on this noble enterprise, until Congress should meet, 
and authorize the expedition. 

"In the mean time, Mr. Grinnell, one of the most 
respectable and worthy merchants of the city of lN"ew 
York, understanding the difficulty that the government 
had in fitting out the expedition, has gone to work, and 
with his own means has built t\^o small vessels espe- 
cially prepared for the expedition ; and he now most 
generously tenders them to the government, not to be 
under his own control, but the control of the govern- 
ment, and to be made part of the navy of the United 
States. The honorable senator from Alabama (Mr. 
King) is mistaken with regard to the terms and effect 
of this resolution. This resolution places these two 
ships under the control of the government, as much 
BO as if they were built expressly for the navy of the 
United States. Their direction, their fitting out, their 
officers and m^n, are all to be under the control of 
the Executive. Their officers are to be offictfrs of our 



DEBATE IN CONGRESS. S8T 

navy — their seamen the seamen of our navy — so that 
the expedition will be as thoroughly under the control of 
this government as if the ships belonged to us. ]N^ow, 
Sir, I should have no objections myself to amend this 
resolution so as to authorize the purchase of these two 
small vessels at once, and make them a part of our na- 
val establishment ; but, when I recollect the magnani- 
mous feeling which urged this noble-hearted merchant 
to prepare these ships, I know that that same feeling 
would forbid him to make merchandise of that which 
he has devoted to humanity. He offers them for this 
great cause ; they are his property, prepared for this 
enterprise, and he offers them to us to be used by the 
government in this great undertaking. We must either 
accept them for the purpose to which he has dedicated 
them, or reject them altogether. If we refuse these 
ships, we will defeat the whole enterprise, and lose all 
opportunity of participation in a work of humanity 
which now commands the attention of the world. 

" If we refer this resolution back to the committee, 
and they report a bill authorizing government to build 
ships to carry on the expedition on its own account, it 
would be attended with very great delay, and, in my 
opinion defeat the object we have in view. In a case 
of this kind time is every thing. It must be done speed- 
ily, if done at all. Every hour's delay may be worth 
the life of a man. Sir John Franklin and his compan- 
ions may ere this have perished, but our hope is that 
they are still living in some narrow sea, imprisoned by 
walls of ice, where our succor may yet reach them. 
But, Sir, whether our hopes are fallacious or not, the 
public feeling — the feeling of humanity — is, that the 
fate of Sir John Franklin should, if possible, be ascer- 
tained, and as soon as possible. The public mind will 
never be satisfied till an expedition from this country, 
or from some other country, shall have ascertained their 
fate. I therefore trust that this resolution, as it is, will 
be acted upon at once, and that it will receive the 
unanimous vote of the Senate. * * * * 

" I am so impressed Mr. President, with the impor- 

22 



338 PKOGKESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERT. 

tance of time as regards the disposal of this question, 
that I hesitate even to occupy the attention of the 
Senate for a few moments ; and I only do so for the 
pm^pose of correcting some views which have been ex- 
pressed by the senator from Mississij)pi* ^ * -^ The 
question is, whether we shall adopt this resolution, and 
immediately send forth this expedition for the purpose 
of accomplishing this great object, or whether w^e shall 
throw back this resolution to drag its slow course 
through Congress, in the form of another bill, to make 
an appropriation for the purpose of building vessels. 
For what object? To secure, as the senator says, to the 
United States, the sole honor and glory of this expedi- 
tion. Sir, if this expedition is got up merely for honor 
and glory either to the United States or to an individual, 
I will have nothing whatever to do with it. Sir, there 
is a deeper and a higher sentiment that has induced the 
action of Congress on this subject. It is to engage in 
a great work of humanity, to do that which is not only 
being done by the government of England, but by pri- 
vate individuals, who are fitting out expeditions at their 
own expense, and sending them to the northern seas, 
for the purpose of discovering the fate of this great 
man, who had periled his life in the cause of science 
and of commerce. 

" Mr President, I have been informed that a private 
expedition is now being fitted out in England under the 
direction of that great commander, or I may call him 
the king of the Polar Seas, Sir John Poss, who is going 
again to devote himself and his life to this perilous ex- 
pedition. Sir, altogether I have not had heretofore 
much confidence in the success of this expedition, yet 
when I consider the reputation of Sir John Poss, and 
the fact that he is better acquainted with those seas 
than any other man living, and understanding that he 
entertains the belief that Sir John Franklin and his 
companions are yet alive, and may be rescued, — I say, 
finding such a man as Sir John Poss engaged in an ex- 
pedition of this kind, I am not without hope that our 
efforts maj^, under Providence, be crowned with success. 



DEBATE IN CONGEESS. 339 

But the honorable senator says that nothing is likely to 
be derived from this expedition but honor and glory, 
and that that is to be divided between the government 
of the United States and a private individual. Sir, is 
there nothing to be derived from the performance of an 
act of humanity but honor and glory ? Sir, it is said 
that in this instance both the government and the indi- 
vidual alluded to are engaged in the same work. Well, 
Sir, what objection can there be to that connection? 
Does the honorable senator from Mississippi envy the 
individual his share of the honor and glory ? Does he 
desire to monopolize it all to the United States ? I hope 
he has no such feeling as that. 

" But, Mr. President, the honorable senator made use 
of an expression which I think he will withdraw. He 
intimated, if I understood him rightly, some suspicion 
that this was a matter of speculation on the part of Mr. 
Grinnell. 

" Mr. FooTE : I said I had heard such a thing sug- 
gested ; but I do not make any such charge myself. 

" Mr. Miller : I have heard this urged as an objec- 
tion heretofore, but I am satisfied that if the senator 
from Mississippi knew the character and the history of 
this gentleman, he would not even repeat that he had 
heard such an insinuation. Sir, although this is a 
liberal donation from an individual, the sum need not 
alarm gentlemen about after claims. These ships are 
but small ships ; and it is necessary that they should be 
small in order that they may be effective. One of them 
is, I understand, 150 tons, and the other 90 tons. They 
have cost, I believe, 30,000 dollars. ISTow, when we 
find this merchant devoting his property, not for the 
purpose of building ships to convey merchandise to the 
markets of the w^oiid ; when we find him retiring from 
the ordinary course of commercial pursuit in which all 
the world is engaged, and devoting a portion of his 
fortune to the building of ships that can be used for no 
other purpose but in this voyage of humanity, can it be 
imagined that any thought of speculation on his part 
could' have influenced his conduct ? No, Sir. On the 



340 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

contrary, it is a high and worthy motive ; and I think 
it ought to receive the approbation of this and all other 
intelligent Christian nations, to see a merchant, who, 
while the commercial world are encompassing the 
globe by sea and land in quest of profit and of gold, is 
dedicating himself to his great object, and devoting a 
part of his fortune to the cause of humanity, and offer- 
ing to government, not as a bounty, but because the 
government, with all its means, has not the power and 
the time to prepare vessels to do this work. That, Sir, 
is the object. 

" JSTow, if we do not accept these ships, there will be 
an end of this expedition. Sir, shall it be said, that 
this government has lost such an opportunity as this of 
exhibiting the deep interest which our people feel both 
in the cause of science and humanity, and that, too, at 
the very time when we are entering into treaties and com- 
pacts with all the commercial nations of the world, for 
the purpose of extending commerce and civilization, 
and opening communications of trade from sea to sea? 
When the government is not only doing all by its own 
power, but also acting in concert with our private citi- 
zens in constructing rail-roads and canals, and by vari- 
ous other modes extending commercial civilization 
throughout the world, shall it be said that we, at this 
moment, refused, through the fear of losing a little 
honor and glory and national dignity, to accept two 
ships — the only two ships in America that can do the 
work — in the accomplishment of this great enterprise ? 
I hope not. Let ns not, then, cavil and waste time 
about these little matters. If the work is to be done 
at all it must be done now, and done, as I conceive, by 
the adoption of this resolution. 

GovERNOE Sewaed spokc as follows in the Senate 
on the same subject: — "I am happy to perceive, Mr. 
President, indications all around the chamber that there 
is no disagreement in regard to the importance, or in 
relation to the propriety, of a search on the part of this 
nation, by the government itself, or by individual citi- 
zens, for the lost and heroic navigator. Since so much 



DEBATE m CONGRESS. 341 

fs conceded, and since I come from the State whence 
this proposition emanates, I desire to notice, in a very 
few words, the objections raised against the mode of 
carrying the proposed design into effect. It is always 
the case, I think, when great objects and great enter- 
prises which are feasible are hindered or defeated, that 
they are hindered or defeated, not so much by want of 
agreement concerning the measures themselves, as by 
diversity of opinion concerning the mode of carrying 
them into execution. Since this is so generally the 
case, the rule which I always adopt, and which seems 
to be a safe one, is, that where I cannot have my own 
way of obtaining a great public object, I will accept 
the best other way which opens before me. J^ow, I 
cordially agree with those honorable Stnatctrs who 
would have preferred that at some appropriate time, 
and in some proper and unobjectionable manner, the 
government should have moved for the attainment of 
this object, as a government, and have made it exclu- 
sively the act of the nation. And I would have pre- 
ferred this, not so much on account of the glory that it 
is supposed would have followed it, as because of the 
beneficence of the enterprise. Enterprises which 
spring from a desire of glory are very apt to end in 
disappointment. True national glory is always safely 
attained by prosecuting beneficent designs, whatever 
may be their success. I say. Sir, then, that I would 
have preferred the alternative suggested ; but the fact 
is, without stopping to inquire where the fault lies, or 
whether there be fault at all, the government has not 
moved, and the reason which has been assigned is, I 
have no doubt, the true one. I do not know that it 
has ever been contradicted or called in question ; that 
reason is, that the Navy of the United States contains 
no vessels adapted to the enterprise, but consists of 
ships constructed and fitted for very different objects 
and purposes than an exploring expedition amid the 
ice-bound seas of the arctic pole. Our naval marine 
consists of vessels adapted to the purposes of convoys, 
military armament, and the suppression of the slave- 



342 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEET. 

trade on the coast of Africa. The executive portions 
of the government failed for want of vessels suitable 
to be ernploj^ed in this particular service. It therefore 
devolved upon the Legislature of the United States. 
But, although we have been here now nearly five 
months, no Committee of either House, no member of 
either House of Congress has proposed to equip a na- 
tional fleet for this purpose. "While this fact exists on 
one side, it is to be remarked on the other, that the 
time has arrived in which the movement must be made 
if it is to be made at all, and also that a careful inves- 
tigation, made by scientific and practical men, has re- 
vived the hope in Europe and America that the humane 
object can be attained. There can, then, be no delay 
allowed for considering whether the manner for carry- 
ing the design into effect could not be changed. Let 
us, then, practically survey the case as it comes before 
us. The government of the United States has really 
no vessels adapted to the purpose. To say nothing of 
the expense, the government has not time to provide, 
prepare, or equip vessels for the expedition. Under 
such circumstances, a citizen of the United States 
•tenders to the government vessels of his own, precisely 
adequate in number, and exactly fitted in construction 
and equipment, for the performance of the duty to be 
assumed. Since he oflTers them to the government, 
what reason can we assign for refusing them? No 
reason can be assigned, except that he is too generous, 
and off*ers to give us the use of the vessels instead of 
demanding compensation for it. Well, Sir, if we do 
accept them it can be immediately carried into execu- 
tion, with a cheering prospect of attaining the great 
object wliich the United States and the civilized world 
have such deep interest in securing. Then the ques- 
tion resolves itself into this — the question raised by 
the honorable Senator from Alabama (Mr. King) — 
whether, in seeking so beneficent an object, it is con- 
sistent with the dignity of the nation to combine indi- 
vidual action with a national enterprise. I do not 
think, Mr. President, that that honorable Senator will 



DEBATE IM CONGRESS. 343 

find himself obliged to insist upon this objection after 
he shall have carefully examined the bill before us. 
He will find that it converts the undertaking into a 
national enterprise. The vessels are to be accepted 
not as individual property, but as national vessels. 
They will absolutely cease to be under the direction, 
management, or control of the owners, and will become 
at once national ships, and for the time, at least, and 
for all the purposes of the expedition, a part of the 
national marine. 

"E"ow, Sir, have we ry^t postal arrangements with 
various foreign countries carried into effect in the same 
way, and is the dignity of the nation compromised by 
them ? During the war with Mexico, the government 
continually hired ships and steamboats from citizens foi 
military operations. Is the glory of that war tarnished 
uy the use of those means ? The government in this 
case, as in those cases, is in no sense a partner. It 
assumes the whole control of the vessels, and the enter- 
prise becomes a national one. The only circumstance 
remaining to be considered is, whether the government 
can accept the loan of the service of the vessels without 
making compensation. N"ow, Sir, I should not have had 
the least objection, and, indeed, it would have been 
more agreeable to me if the government could have 
made an arrangement to have paid a compensation. 
But I hold it to be quite unnecessary in the present 
case because the character of the person who tenders 
these vessels, and the circumstances and manner of the 
whole transaction, show that it is not a speculation. 
IS'o compensation is wanted. It would only be a cere- 
mony on the part of the government to offer it, and a 
ceremony on the part of the merchant to decline it. I 
am, therefore, willing to march directly to the object, 
and to assume that these ceremonies have been duly 
performed, that the government has offered to pay, and 
the noble-spirited merchant declined to receive. 

" jN^ow, then, is there any thing derogatory from the 
dignity and independence of this nation in employing 
the vessels? Certainly not, since that employment is 



34:4: PJROGKESS OF AEQTIC DISCOVERY, 

indispensable. If it were not indispensable I do not 
think that the dignity of the Republic would be im- 
paired ; I think, on the contrary, that it would be en- 
hanced and elevated. It is a transaction wortliy of the 
nation, a spectacle deserving the contemplation and 
respect of mankind, to see that not only does the nation 
prosecute, but that it has citizens able and wdlling to 
contribute, voluntarily and without compulsion, to an 
enterprise so interesting to the cause of science and of 
humanity. It is indeed a new and distinct cause for 
national pride, that an individual citizen, not a merchant 
prince, as he w^ould be called in some other countries, 
but a republican merchant, comes forward in this way 
and moves the government and co-operates with it. It 
illustrates the magnanimity of the nation and of the 
citizen. Sir, there is nothing objectionable in this fea- 
ture of the transaction. It results from the character 
of the government, which is essentially poj^ular, that 
there are perpetual debates on the question how far 
measures and enterprises, for the purposes of humanity 
and science, are consistent with the constitutional or- 
ganization of the government, although they are ad^ 
mitted to be eminently compatible with the dignity, 
character, and intelligence of the nation. All our en- 
terprises, more or less, are carried into execution, if 
they are carried into execution at all, not by the direct 
action of the government, but by the lending of its 
favor, countenance, and aid to individuals, to corpora- 
tions, and to States. Thus it is that we construct rail- 
roads and canals, and found colleges and universities. 
" ISTor is this mode of prosecuting enterprises of great 
pith and moment peculiar to this government. There 
was a navigator who went forth from a port in Spain, 
some three or four hundred years ago, on an enterprise 
quite as doubtful and quite as perilous as this. After 
trying unsuccessfully several States, he was forced to be 
content with the sanction, and little more than the sanc- 
tion and patronage of the Court of Madrid. The scanty 
treasures devoted to that undertaking were the ])rivate 
contributions of a Queen and her subjects, and the ves- 



DEBATE IN CONGRESS. 345 

Bcls were fitted out and manned at the expense of mer- 
chants and citizens, which gave a new world to the 
kingdom of Castile and Leon. 

" Entertaining these views now, whatever my opinion 
might have been under other circumstances, 1 shall vote 
against a recommittal, and in favor of the bill, as tlie 
surest way of preventing its defeat, and of attaining the 
sublime and beneficent object which it contemplates." 

The committee of both Houses of Congress, to whom 
Mr. GrinnelPs petition for men and supplies was re- 
ferred, made a unanimous report in favor ; and the 
vessels left on their daring and generous errand. 

The following are the joint resolutions which passed 
both Houses of Congress and were approved by Gen- 
eral Taylor, authorizing the President of the United 
States to accept and attach to the U. S. JS'avy the two 
vessels, ofiered by Mr. Grinnell, to be sent to the arctic 
seas in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions: 

" Resolved by the Senate and House of Eepresent- 
atives of the United States of America in Congress 
assembled. That the President be, and he is hereby 
authorized and directed, to receive from Henry Grinnell, 
of the city of New York, the two vessels prepared by 
him for an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin 
and his companions, and to detail from the Navy such 
commissioned and warrant oflicers, and so many sea- 
men as may be necessary for said expedition, and wlio 
may be willing to engage therein. The said officers 
and men shall be furnished with suitable rations, at tlie 
discretion of the President, for a jDcriod not exceeding 
three years, and shall have the use of such necessary 
instruments as are now on hand and can be spared from 
the Navy, to be accounted for or returned by the ofli- 
cers who shall receive the same. 

" Sec. 2. Be it further resolved. That tlie said vessels, 
ofiicers, and men shall be in all respects under the laws 
and regulations of the Navy of the United States until 
their return, when the said vessels shall be delivered 
to the said Henry Grinnell : Provided, That the United 
States shall not be liable to any claim for compensation 



346 PKOGKESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVEKY. 

in case of the loss, damage or deterioration of tlie said 
vessels, or either of them, from any cause or in any 
manner whatever, nor be liable to any demand for the 
use or risk of the said vessels or either of them." 

Directly the fact became known that the American 
government had nobly come forward to aid in the search 
which was being so strenuously made, the different 
learned societies of the metropolis vied with each other 
in testifying the estimation in which this noble conduct 
was held. 

At the annual meeting of the "Royal Society, on the 
7th of June, upon the motion of Sir Charles Lennox, 
seconded by the late Marquis of Northampton, a vote 
of thanks was carried with the utmost enthusiasm, ex- 
pressive of the gratitude of tlie Society to the American 
government, and of their deep sense of the kind and 
brotherly feeling which had prompted so liberal an act 
of humanity. A similar vote was carried, on the 11th 
of June, at a general meeting of the Royal Geograph- 
ical Society, (of which Sir John Franklin was long one 
of the vice-presidents.) 

The American expedition consists of two brigan tines 
— now enrolled in the United States JSTavy — the Ad- 
vance, of IM tons, and the Rescue, 91 tons. These 
vessels have been provided and fitted out by the gener- 
ous munificence of Mr. Henry Grinnell, a merchant of 
New York, at an expense to him of between 5000Z. and 
6000Z. The American government also did much to- 
tvard fitting and equi23ping them. The Advance was 
fcwo years old, and the Rescue quite new. Both vessels 
were strengthened in every part, and put in the most 
complete order for the service in which they were to be 
ena^aged. They are under the command of Lieutenant 
Edward S. De Haven, who was emploj^ed in Com- 
mander Wilkes' expedition in 1843 ; Mr. S. P. Griffin, 
acting master, has charge of the Rescue. The otliei 
officers of the expedition are Messrs. W. PL Murdaugh, 
acting-master ; T. W. Broadhead, and R. R. Carter, 
passed midshipmen ; Dr. E. K. Kane, passed assistant- 
surgeon ; Mr. Benjamin Finland, assistant-surgeon ; W 



THE AMEKICAN EXPEDITIOiq-. 347 

S Lovell, midshipman ; H. Brooks, boatswain ; and a 
cornplement of thirty-six seamen in the two vessels — 
the crew of the Advance consisting of fifteen men, and 
the Rescue thirteen men. The vessels left New York 
on the 25th of May, 1850. Their proposed destination 
is through Barrow's Strait, westward to Oape Walker, 
and round Melville Island. They were provisioned for 
three years. 

Whatever may be the result ,of this* expedition, as 
connected with the fate of the gallant Sir John Frank- 
lin, it is one which reflects the highest honor upon the 
philanthropic individual who projected it, and upon the 
officers and men engaged therein. 

A dispatch has been received frona Lieutenant De 
Haven,- dated off Leopold Island, August 22d, which 
reports the progress of the expedition thus far. The 
Advance, in company with her consort, the Rescue, 
sailed from the Whale Fish Islands oh the 29th of June; 
after man}'- delays and obstructions from calms, stream 
ice, and the main pack, they forced a passage through 
it for a considerable distance, but at last got wedged up 
in the pack immovably until the 29th of July, when 
by a sudden movement of the floes, an opening pre- 
sented itself, and under a press of sail the vessels forced 
their way into clear water. They encountered a heavy 
gale, which, with a thick fog, made their situation very 
dangerous, the huge masses of ice being driven along 
by the strength of the wind and current with great 
fury. By the aid of warping in calm weather, they 
reached Cape Yorke on the 15th of August, and a little 
to the eastward met with two Esquimaux, but could not 
understand much from them. Between Cape Yorke 
and Cape Dudley Diggs, while delayed by calms, being 
in open water, they hauled the ships into the shore at 
the Crimson Cliffs of Beverley, (so named from the red 
snow on them,) and filled their water casks from a 
mountain stream. 

On the 18th, with a fair wind, they shaped their course 
for the western side of Baffin's Bay, and met the pack in 
streams and very loose, which they cleared entirely by 



84:8 PKOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

the following day — getting into the north waters, where 
they fell in with Captain Penny's two vessels, which 
having been unsuccessful in their efforts to enter Jones' 
Sound, were now taking the same course up Lancaster 
Sound. On the 19th, in a violent gale, the Advance 
parted company with the Rescue. On the morning of 
the 21st of August, the fog cleared, and Lieutenant De 
Haven found he was off Cape Crawford, on the south 
ern shore of the Sound. Here he fell in with the Felix 
schooner, under Captain Sir John Ross, from whom he 
learned that Commodore Austin was at Pond's Bay with 
two of his vessels, seeking for information, while the 
other two had been dispatched to examine the north 
shore of the Sound. Lieutenant De Haven proposed 
proceeding on from Port Leopold to "Wellington Chan- 
nel, the appointed place of rendezvous with his consort. 

Captain Forsyth's Remarkable Yoyage in the 
"Prince Albert." 

In April, 1850, a branch expedition to aid those ves- 
sels sent out by the government was determined on by 
Lady Franklin, who contributed largely toward its out- 
fit ; a considerable sum being also raised by public 
subscription. The expenses of this expedition were 
nearly 4000^., of which 2500^. were contributed by Lady 
Franklin herself The object of this expedition was 
the providing for the search of a portion of the Arctic 
Sea, which it was distinctly understood could not be 
executed by the vessels under Captain Austin ; but the 
importance of which had been set forth, by arctic and 
other authorities, in documents printed in the Parlia- 
mentary Papers. 

The unprovided portion alluded to, includes Regent 
Inlet, and the passages connecting it with the western 
sea, James Ross's Strait, and other localities, S. W. of 
Cape Walker, to which quarter Sir John Franklin was 
required by his instructions to proceed in the first in- 
stance. This search is assumed to be necessary on the 
following grounds : — 



VOYAGE OF THE PEIITCE ALBERT. 34:9 

1. The probability of Sir John Franklin having 
abandoned his vessels to the S. W. of Cape Walker. 

2. The fact that, in his charts, an open passage is 
laid down from the west into the south part of Regent 
Inlet. 

3. Sir John Franklin would be more likely to take 
this course through a country known to possess the re- 
sources of animal life, with the wreck of the Yictory 
in Felix Harbor for fuel, and the stores of Fury Beach 
farther north in view, than to fall upon an utterly barren 
region of the north coast of America. 

4. He would be more likely to expect succor to be 
sent to him by way of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's 
Strait, into which Regent Inlet opens, than in any 
other direction. 

In corroboration of the necessity of this part of tho 
search, I would refer generally to the Parliamentary 
papers of 1848-9 and 50. As an individual opinion, I 
may quote the words of Captain Beechey, p. 31 of the 
first series. " If, in this condition," (that of being 
hopelessly blocked up to the S. W. of Cape Walker,) 
" which I trust may not be the case, Sir John Franklin 
should resolve upon taking to his boats, he would prefer 
attempting a boat navigation through Sir James Ross's 
Strait, and up Regent Inlet, to a long land journey 
across the continent to the Hudson Bay Settlements, 
to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly 
unequal." And again, in his letter to the Secretary 
of the Admiralty, 7th of February, 1850, Captain 
Beechey writes, « * * * * the bottom of Regent Inlet, 
about the Pelly Islands, should not be left unexamined. 
[n the memorandum submitted to their Lordships, 17th 
of January, 1849, this quarter was considered of im- 
portance, and I am still of opinion that had Sir John 
Franklin abandoned his vessels near the coast of 
America, and much short of the Mackenzie River, he 
would have preferred the probability of retaining the 
use of his boats until he found relief in Barrow's Strait, 
to risking an overland journey via the before-men- 
tioned river ; and it must be remembered that at the 



350 PEOGJRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. 

time be sailed, Sir George Back's discovery had ren- 
dered it very probable that Boothia was an island. 

The memorandum alluded to by Captain Beechey 
as having been submitted to the Lords of the Admi- 
I'alty on the 17th of January, 1849, was, the expression 
of the unanimous opinion of the arctic officers assem- 
bled by command of the Admiralty to deliberate upon- 
the best means to be taken for the relief of the missing 
expedition ; and in this report, clause 14 is expressly 
devoted to the recommendation of the search of Begent 
Inlet. 

The necessity for the proposed search may be thus 
further developed. Sir John Franklin may have aban- 
doned his ships, when liis provisions were nearly ex- 
hausted somewhere about the latitude of 73° N., long. 
lOo'^ W". ; in short, at any point S. W. of Cape Walker, 
not farther "W. than long. 110°. And in such case, 
rather than return north, (which might be indeed im- 
practicable) or moving south upon the American Con- 
tinent, of which (upon the coast,) the utter barrenness 
was already well known to him, he might prefer a 
southeastern course, with a view of passing in his boats, 
either through James Boss's, or through Simpson's 
Straits, into the Gulf of Boothia, and so up into Begent 
Inlet to the house and stores left at Fury Beach, the 
only depot of provisions known to him. The advantages 
of such a course might appear to him very great. 

1. Two open passages being laid down in his charts 
into Begent Inlet, by James Boss's Strait, and by Simp- 
son's Strait, a means of boat transport for his party 
would be afforded, of which alone perhaps their ex- 
hausted strength and resources might admit; such a 
course would obviously recommend itself to a com- 
mander who had experienced the frightful difficulties 
of a land journey in those regions. 

2. The proposed course would lead through a part, 
the Isthmus of Boothia, in which animal life is known 
at some seasons to abound. 

3. The Esquimaux who have been found on the 
Isthmus of Boothia are extremely well disposed and 
friendly. 



VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBEET. 35i 

4. It is the direct route toward the habitual yearly 
resort of the whalers on the west coast of Baffin's Bay 
and Davis' Strait; indeed those ships occasionally de- 
scend Regent Inlet to a considerable distance south. 

5. There are two persons attached to the expedition 
who are well acquainted with this region and its re- 

. sources — viz., Mr. Blanky, ice master, and Mr. Mac- 
Donald, assistant surgeon, of the Terror. The former 
was with Sir John Ross in the Victory. The latter 
has made several voyages in whaling vessels and is 
acquainted with the parts lying between Regent Inlet 
and Davis' Strait. IV here so few among the crews of 
the missing ships have had any local experience, the 
concurrent knowledge of two persons would have 
considerable weight. 

6. Opinions are very greatly divided as to the part 
m which Sir John Franklin's party may have been ar- 
rested, and as to the course they may have taken in 
consequence. It would be therefore manifestly unfair, 
and most dangerous, to reason out and magnify any one 
hypothesis at the expense of the others. The plan here 
alluded to sought to provide for the probability of the 
Expedition having been stopped shortly after passing to 
the southwest of Cape Walker. The very open season 
of 1845 was followed by years of unusual severity until 

, 1849. It is therefore very possible that retreat as well 
as onward progress has been impossible — that safety 
alone has become their last object. The hope of rescu- 
ing them in their last extremity depends, then, (as far 
as human means can insure it,) on the multiplying of 
simultaneous efforts in every direction. Captain Aus- 
tin's vessels will, if moving in pairs, take two most im- 
portant sections only, of the general search, and will 

•find they have enough to do to reach their several points 
of operation this season. 

The necessity for this search was greatly enhanced 
^y the intelligence received about this time in England 
of the arrival of Mr. Rae and Commander Pullen at 
the Mackenzie River, thus establishing the fact, that 
Sir John Franklin's party had not reached any part of 



352 PE0GEES8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 

the coast between Behring's Strait and the Coppermine 
'Riv«r, while the check which Mr. Kae received in 
his course to the north of the Coppermine, tended to 
give increased importance to the quarter eastward of 
that position. 

Commander Charles Codrington Forsyth, R. 1^., an 
entei^3rising young officer, who had not long previously • 
been promoted in consequence of his arduous services 
in surveying on the Australian, African, and American 
shores, and who had rendered good service to the gov- 
ernment by landing supplies on the east coast of Africa, 
under circumstances of great difficulty during the Kafir 
war, had volunteered unsuccessfully for all the govern- 
ment expeditions, but was permitted by the Admiralty 
to command this private branch expedition, in which 
he embarked without fee or reward — on the noble and 
honorable mission of endeavoring to relieve his long- 
imprisoned brother officers. 

The Prince Albert, a small clipper vessel of about 
ninety tons, originally built by Messrs. White, of Cowes, 
in October, 1848, for the. fruit trade, was accordingly 
hastily fitted out and dispatched from Aberdeen, and 
Captain Forsyth was instructed to winter, if possible, 
in Brentford Bay, in Regent Inlet, and thence send 
parties to explore the opposite side of the isthmus and 
the various shores and bays of the Inlet- She had a * 
crew of twenty, W. Kay and "W. Wilson acting as first 
and second mates, and Mr. W. P. Snow as clerk. She 
sailed on the 5th of June, and was consequently the 
last vessel that left, and yet is the first that has reached 
home, having also brought some account of the track 
of Franklin's expedition. 

The Prince Albert arrived off Cape Farewell, July^ 
2d, entered the ice on the 19th, and on the 21st, came 
up with Sir John Ross in a labyrinth of ice. She pro- 
ceeded up Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, fell in 
with most of the English ships in those seas, and also 
with the American brig Advance, sailing some time in 
company, and attempted to enter Regent Inlet and Wel- 
lington Channel. She left the Advance aground near 



VOYAGE OF THE PKINCE AlBERT. 353 

Cape Riley, at the entrance of Wellington Channel, 
though not in a situation supposed to be dangerous. 
Commander Forsyth, in his official letter to the Lords 
of the Admiralty, says that " traces of the missing ex- 
pedition nnder Sir John Franklin had been found at 
Cape Kiley and Beechey Island, at the entrance to the 
Wellington Channel. We observed five places where 
tents had been pitched, or stones placed as if they had 
been used for keeping the lower part of the tents down, 
also great quantities of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a 
piece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on it, 
(yellow,) part of which I have inclosed." Having en- 
tered Wellington Channel, and examined the coast as 
far as Point Innis, and finding no further traces of the 
missing vessels, and it being impracticable to penetrate 
further to the w^est. Commander Forsyth returned to Re 
gent Inlet, but meeting no opening there, the season 
oeing near at hand when the ice begins to form, and 
his vessel not of a strength which would enable it to 
resist a heavy pressure of ice, he determined on return- 
ing without further delay to England, after examining 
a number of points along the coast. 

On the 25th of August, a signal staff being observed 
on shore at Cape Riley, Mr. Snow was sent by Captain 
Forsyth to examine it. He found that the Assistance, 
Captain Ommaney, had been there two days before, and 
had left the following notice : — 

" This is to certify that Captain Ommaney, with the 
officers of her Majesty's ships Assistance and Intrepid, 
landed upon Cape Riley on the 23d August, 1850, where 
he found traces of encampments, and collected the re- 
mains of materials, which evidently proved that some 
party belonging to her Majesty's ships had been de- 
tained on that spot. Beechey Island was also examined, 
where traces were found of the same party. This is 
also to give notice that a supply of provisions and fuel 
.« at Cape Riley. Since 15th August, they have ex- 
amined the north shore of Lancaster Sound and Bar- 
low's Strait, without meeting with any other traces »* 
Captain Ommaney proceeds to Cape Hotham and Cape 

23 



354: PKOGEESS OF AKCTIO DISCO YERY. 

Walker in search of further traces of Sir John Frank- 
lin's expedition. Dated on board her Majesty's ship 
Assistance, off Cape Riley, the 23d August, 1850." 

The seamen who were dispatched from the Assistance 
to examine these remains, found a rope with the naval 
mark, evidently belonging to a vessel which had been 
fitted out at Woolwich, and which, in all probability, 
was either the Erebus or the Terror. Other indications 
were also noticed, which showed that some vessel had 
visited the place besides the Assistance. Captain For- 
syth left a notice that the Prince Albert had called off 
Cape Riley on the 25th of August, and then bore up 
to the eastward. Captain Forsyth landed at Posses- 
sion Bay on the 29th August, but nothing was foimd 
there to repay the search instituted. 

The Prince Albert arrived at Aberdeen, on the 22d 
of October, after a quick passage, having been absent 
something less than four months. 

Captain Forsyth proceeded to London by the mail 
train, taking with him, for the information of the Ad- 
miralty, the several bones, (beef, pork, &c.,) which were 
found on Cape Riley, together with a piece of rope of 
about a foot and a half in length, and a small piece of 
canvas with the Queen's mark upon it, both in an ex- 
cellent state of preservation ; placing it almost beyond 
a doubt that they were left on that spot by the expedi- 
tion under Sir John Franklin. 

cJaptain Forsyth, during his short trip, explored re- 
gions which Sir James Ross was unable to reach tbti 
previous year. He was at Wellington Channel, and 
penetrated to Fury Beach, where Sir E. Parry aban- 
doned his vessel, (the Fury,) in 1825, after she had 
taken the ground. It is situated in about 72° 40' 'N. 
latitude, and 91° 50' W. longitude. This is a point 
'vhich has not been reached by any vessel for twenty 
years past. It was found, however, utterly impossible 
to land there on account of the packed ice. The whole 
of the coasts of Bafiin's Bay have also now been visited 
without result. 

The intelligence which Capt. Forsyth brought home 



YOTAGE OF THE PEmCE ALBERT. 355 

has, as a matter of course, excited the raost intense in- 
terest in naval circles, and among the friends and rela- 
tives of the parties absent in the Erebns and Terror, 
the more so inasmuch as it has been ascertained at 
Chatham Dockyard that the rope which Captain For- 
syth found on the spot when he visited it, and copied 
Capt. Ommaney's notice, is proved by its yellow mark 
to have been manufactured there, and certainly since 
1824 ; and moreover, from inquiries instituted, very 
strong evidence has been elicited in favor of the belief 
that the rope was made between the years 1841 and 
1819. That the trail of the Franklin expedition, oi 
some detachment of it, has been struck, there cannot 
be the slightest doubt in the mind of any one who has 
read the dispatches and reports. That Captain Om- 
maney felt satisfied on this score is evident from the 
terms of the paper he left behind him. The squadron, 
it appears, were in full cry upon the scent on the 25th 
of August, and we must wait patiently, but anxiously, 
for the next accounts of the results of their indefatiga^ 
ble researches, which can hardly reach us from Bax'- 
row's Strait before the autumn of 1851. 

There can be no doubt now in the mind of any one, 
that the Arctic Searching Expeditions have at length 
come upon traces^ if not the track of Sir John Frank- 
lin. The accounts brought by Captain Forsyth must 
have at least satisfied the most desponding that there 
is still hope left — that the ships have not foundered in 
Baffin's Bay, at the outset of the voyage, nor been 
crushed in the ice, and burned by a savage tribe of 
Esquimaux, who had murdered the crew. That the 
former might hsiYe happened, all must admit ; but to 
the latter, few, we imagine, will give their assent, not- 
withstanding the numerous cruel rumors promulgated 
Irom time to time. It would be idle to dwell upon so 
impossible an event. "Where could this savage tribe 
spring from ? Mr. Saunders describes the natives of 
Wolstenholme Sound as the most miserable and help- 
less of mortals. They had no articles obtained from. 
Europeans ; and he was of opinion that therr were no 



856 PKOGEESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEEY. 

settlements further north ; and if there were, doubtless 
they would be even mgre impotent than these wretched 
beings. That the ship might have foundered all must 
admit. The President did so with many a gallant soul 
on board. . The Avenger ran on the Sorelli, and 300 
brave fellows, in an instant, met with a watery grave ; 
and till the sea shall give up her dead, who' can count 
the thousands that lie beneath the billows of the mighty 
ocean ? We have now certain evidence that Franklin's 
ships did not founder — --not, at least, in Baffin's Ba^^ ; 
and our own belief, (says a well-informed and compe- 
tent writer in the Morning Herald,) is that the pennant 
still floats in the northern breeze, amid eternal regions 
of snow and ice. 

The voyage performed by the Prince Albert has thus 
been the means of keeping alive our hopes, and of in- 
forming us, up to a certain point, of the progress of 
the expeditions, and the situation of the different ships, 
of which we might have been left in a state of utter 
ignorance till the close of this year. Every thing con- 
nected with the navigation of the arctic seas is a 
chance, coupled, of course, with skill ; and in looking 
at this voyage performed by Lady Franklin's little 
vessel, it must be obvious to every one that Captain 
Forsyth has had the chance of an open season, and the 
skill to make use of it. 

" Live a thousand years," and we may never see such 
another voyage performed. "We have only to look at 
all that have preceded. Parry, it is true, in one year 
ran to Melville Island, and passing a winter, got liack 
to England the following season — and this is at present 
the ne plus ultra of arctic navigation. Sir John Ross, 
we know, went out in the Yictory to Regent Lilet, and 
was frozen in for four years, and all the world gave 
him up for lost — but "there's life in the old dog yet," 
as the song has it. 

Sir James Ross was frozen in at Leopold Harbor, 
and only got out, aftc* passing a winter, to be carried 
away in a floe of ice into Baffin's Bay, which no human 
skill could prevent. 



TOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 357 

Sir George Back was to make a snminer's cruise to 
Wager Inlet, and return to England. The result every 
one knows or may make themselves acquainted with, 
by reading the fearful voyage of the Terror, an ab- 
stract of which I have already given. It would be 
superfluous to enumerate many other of our series of 
polar voyages, but it is pretty evident that Captain 
Forsyth's voyage, performed in the summer months 
of 1850, will be handed down to posterit}^ as one of the 
most remarkable, if not the most remarkable, that has 
ever been accomplished in the arctic seas — the expe- 
dition consisting of one solitary small vessel. 

The main object of the voyage, it is true, has not 
been accomplished, but as all the harbors in Regent 
Inlet were frozen up, and it was utterly impossible to 
cut through a vast tract of ice, extending for perhaps 
four or five miles, to get the ship to a secure anchor- 
age, under these circumstances, Captain Forsyth had 
no alternative but to return, and in doing so, he has, 
in the opinion of all the best-informed oflacers, dis- 
played great good sense and judgment rather than re- 
main frozen in at the Wellington Channel, where he 
only went to reconnoiter, and where he had no business 
whatever, his instructions being confined to Eegent 
Inlet. ^ ^ . , ; 

Lady Franklin purposes, if she can raise sufiicient 
funds, to send out another boat expedition this spring to 
Regent Inlet, to prosecute the search in the regions to 
which we have before alluded, and on which she places 
so much reliance. The party, under the charge of Mr. 
Kennedy, will probably winter in Brentford Bay or 
some other convenient place, and carry on the search- 
ing operations on the opposite shores of Boothia, as 
the season permits. But her ladyship's income has 
been so largely drawn upon by the various enormous 
expenses she has been put to, that it is doubtful 
whether she will be able to carry out her views without 
assistance from the public. 

I sincerely trust that the generosity and chivalry of 
the people of England, which has displayed its sympa 



358 PKOGEESS OF AECTIQ DISCOVERT. 

thies with the distressed soldier and the weather-bound 
seamen on so many occasions, and in so many splendid 
and richly-endowed institutions, will not allow thia 
noble-minded lady to exhaust her private resources 
in the equipment of expeditions which are deemed so 
important and necessary, but that they will come for- 
ward and relieve her, recollecting that the expedition 
is required in search of two of her Majesty's ships, 
sent out on their arduous service by the government 
of the country, and 7mder command of her honored, 
amiable, and distinguished husband, the good and 
brave Sir John Fra-jklin. 

I have thus gone through, as fully as my space would 
permit, the voyages and journeys of our navigators and 
travelers within the Arctic circle, and the record of 
their arduous services cannot fail to prove interesting. 

There is one land expedition, that of Dr. Sir John 
Bichardson, on the Polar shore between the Copper- 
mine and Mackenzie Rivers, in 1848, which I have not 
touched on because it -has already been published in 
detail in several quarters, and the gallant Doctor is pre- 
paring a very full account of it for immediate publica- 
tion. Captain Kellett, also, has it in contemplation to 
publish an account of the voyage of the H 3rald. 

The following recapitulation will give the position 
of the different vessels engaged in the search, when last 
heard of. 

The Investigator having passed Behring's Strait^ 
reached Kotzebue Sound on the 27th of July, and 
when last heard of, was pushing her way along between 
the ice toward Melville Island. The ' Enterprise had 
put back to Hong Kong to winter having been unable 
to enter the ice. 

The Advance, was aground off Cape Eiley, August 
25th. 

The Assistance, in "Wellington Channel, August 
25th, standing toward Cape Hotham. 

The Felix, off Cape Crawford, in Lancaster Sound, 
August 22d. 

The Intrepid and Lady Franklin, on August 24:th 



LATEST POSmOIS" OF ALL THE VESSELS. 359 

and 25tli, in Wellington Channel, standing toward 
Cape Ilotham. 

Tke Resolute and Pioneer, in Possession Bay, Aug. 
ITth. 

The Eescue and Sophia, in Wellington Channel, Au- 
gust 25th, apparently beset with ice. 

The Plover, wintering in Grantley Harbor, Port 
Clarence, 1850, 

The JSTorth Star and Prince Albert have, as we have 
seen, arrived in England, and the Herald is also on 
her passage home. I have been favored with the sight 
of a private letter of very recent date from an officer 
of the Herald, dated Hong Kong, 23d of December, 
1850, from which I make the following extracts : 

" On our third and last cruise north in search of the 
ill-fated expedition under Sir John Franklin, we sailed 
from Oahu on the 24:th of May, 1850, arriving in Kot- 
zebue Sound on the 14:th of July. The Sound was a 
perfect wall of ice, with no prospect of our being able 
to communicate with the Plover for a week or ten days. 
One of our cutters was sent in with letters, getting be- 
tween the floes, and hauling over some, at last reached 
her, and found them all well, but no news during the 
winter of Sir John Franklin. On the 21st of July, 
after watering and refitting, we sailed for Cape Lis- 
burne to intercept the Enterprise and Investigator, 
this being the appointed rendezvous. The Plover also 
sailed for Point Barrow to look after PuUen's party. 
On the 26th, in a dense fog, we made the ice-pack, 
much to our surprise, 180 miles south of where we 
found it last season, in latitude 70° 13^ !N". The ice was 
fourteen feet high, a solid wall without an opening 
through which we might with safety sail. Toward 
midnight it blew a gale of wind, and we were compel- 
led to haul off. On the 29th, we again made the pack 
much higher than before, rising like a hill from the sea 
face, in latitude 71° 12' JST. On the night of the 30th, 
we saw detached icebergs off Wainwright Inlet, from 
thirty to forty feet high. The wind again increasing to 
a gale, with thick rainy weather, reduced us to close 
reefs, and compelled us to bear up for Cape Lisburne, 



360 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISGOVEKT. 

" Arriving off that place on the last day of July, we 
were fortunate enough to fall in with the Investigator in 
a dense fog. Clearing for an instant, we were along- 
side eacli other ! and we had the news of the last 
twelve months. She had come from Oahu in the short 
space of time, twenty-six days. The Enterprise sailed 
five days before her. They had not seen each other 
since rounding the Horn. The Investigator remained 
but a few minutes in our company, and then departed 
with three hearty cheers from us for the ice pack, deter- 
mined to get to Melville Island. She had our good 
wishes, but at the same time our doubts as to her suc- 
cess ; we had the experience of three voyages. She 
was as yet green, and all her troubles to go through. 

" From this day, 31st of July, to 26th of August, we 
were blockading Cape Lisburne, to intercept the En- 
terprise and Plover, a most tedious and troublesome 
twenty-six days as ever we experienced ; we did not 
see the former, but the Plover we spoke. She had been 
to Point Barrow, had heard from the natives that a 
party of white men had been murdered and buried near 
the Colville Eiver, near the Mackenzie River, and that 
whales' jaws and bones now marked the spot. If it 
had not been so late in the season we should have sent 
a boat expedition there, but we hardly knew what con- 
clusion to come to. It may be Pullen's party, — it may 
be only ' native report ' to get tobacco and beads. My 
opinion was, and is, that the story was a most improb- 
able one, as the natives refused to accept a cask of to- 
bacco and two muskets to go there as pilots. But should 
any thing have unfortunately happened to Pullen's 
party, and no movement made by us to rescue them if 
still alive, it would be a damper on the Herald, and the 
affair never forgiven or forgotten by the public. 

" Finding it useless to wait any longer for the Enter- 
prise, we sailed for Port Clarence, and put the Plover 
into winter. quarters as a depot for the two ships norths" 



THE SEARCHma EXPEDITIONS. 361 



TO THE EXPEDITIONS IN" SEARCH OF SIR 
JOHN FRANKLIK. 

jTrom Fisher's DraAvdng-Room Scrap-Book.] 

Across the Arctic foam. 

To bring the wanderer home. 
Speed on, ye fleets, whom Mercy's hand equips I 

And may the favoring gales 

Make music in your sails. 
And waft you safely, oh, ye gallant ships ! 

May sunshine light your path. 

And tempests still their wrath. 
And fortune guide you on your darkest track ; 

Speed on with high endeavor, 

And hopeful courage ever. 
And bring to British hearts their long lost hero back. 

Farewell — a short farewell I — 

The hopes of nations swell. 
And prayei-s of myriads rise to Heaven for you, 

That perils of the cold. 

And hardships manifold. 
May bear their gentlest on each hardy crew I 

A thankful world looks on. 

And gives its benison ; 
America and Europe join their hands ; 

And o'er the Northern Sea, 

Gaze forward hopefully. 
And sound our Franklin's name through all the anxious land& 

Return I oh, soon return ! 

And let our beal-fires bum 
On every mountain-top and dizzy scaur ; 

And let the people's voice. 

And clapping hands rejoice 
For his and your returning from afar. 

No conqueror antique, 

Of Roman fame or Greek, 
Such proud ovation gathered, laurel-crowned. 

As we on him would pour, 

From every sea or shore. 
And hive of busy men, on all our English ground. 

But if this may not be. 

And o'er the frozen sea 
They sleep in death, the victims of their zeal ; 

Be yours the task to show 

The greatness of our woe, 
And end the doubting hopes that millions fed. 

Then shall the tears be shed 

For them, the glorious dead ; 
16* 



862 PROGRESS OF ARCfTlC DISCOVERY. 

And then shall History, on a spotless pag^ 

Inscribe each honest nam© 

With tributary fame — 
The men of noble soul — true heroes of our ago. 

Speed on across the wave 1 — 

For you the good and brave, 
The good and brave of every land implore 

All blessings and success. 

Sunshine and happiness. 
And safety on the far and frozen shor& 

From storm and hidden rock. 

And from the ice-berg's shock. 
May Heaven protect you, wheresoe'er ye stray I 

On Mercy's errand sped 

On you be mercy shed, 
Gk)d guide you, mariners, and shield you on your way 



THE AMEKICA]Sr AECTIC EXPEDITI0:N". 



The safe return of the expedition sent out by Mr 
Henry Grinnell, an opulent mercliant of 'New York city 
in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions, is 
an event of much interest ; and the voyage, though not 
resulting in the discovery of the long-absent mariners, 
presents many considerations satisfactory to the parties 
immediately concerned, and the American public in 
general. 

Mr. Grinnell's expedition consisted of only two smajl 
brigs, the Advance of 140 tons ; the Rescue of only 90 
tons. The former had been engaged in the Havana 
trade ; the latter was a new vessel built for the mer- 
chant service. Both were strengthened for the arctic 
voyage at a heavy cost. They were then placed under 
the directions of our J^avy Board, and subject to naval 
regulations, as if in permanent service. The command 
was given to Lieut. E. De Haven, a young naval officer 
who accompanied the United States exploring expedi- 
tion. Tlie result has proved that a better choice could 
not have been made. His officers consisted of Mr. 
Murdoch, sailing-master ; Dr. E. K. Kane, surgeon and 
naturalist ; and Mr. Lovell, midshipman. The Advance 
had a crew of twelve men when she sailed ; two of them 
complaining of sickness, and expressing a desire to 
return home, were left at the Danish settlement at Disco 
Island, on the coast of Greenland. 

The Expedition left New York on the 23d of May, 
1850, and was absent a little more than sixteen months. 
They passed the eastern extremity of IN^ewfoundland 



366 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. 

ten days after leaving Sandy Hook, and then sailed 
east-northeast, directly for Cape Comfort, on the coast 
of Greenland. The weather was generally line, and 
only a single accident occurred on the voyage to that 
country of frost and snow. Off the coast of Labrador 
they met an iceberg making its way toward the tropics. 
The night was very dark, and as the huge voyager had 
no " light out," the Advance could not be censured for 
running foul. She was punished, however, by the loss 
of her jib-boom, as she ran against the iceberg at the 
rate of seven or eight knots an hour. 

The voyagers did not land at Cape Comfort, but 
turning northward, sailed along the southwest coast of 
Greenland, sometimes in the midst of broad acres of 
broken ice, (particularly in Davis' Straits,) as far as 
Whale Island. On the way the anniversary of our 
national independence occurred ; it was observed by 
the seamen by " splicing the main-brace " — in other 
words, they were allowed an extra glass of grog on that 
day. 

From Whale Island, a boat, with two officers and 
four seamen, was sent to Disco Island, a distance of 
about 26 miles, to a Danish settlement there, to procure 
skin clothing and other articles necessary for use during 
the rigors of a polar winter. The officers were enter- 
tained at the government house ; the seamen were com- 
fortably lodged with the Esquimaux, sleeping in fur 
bags at night. They returned to the ship the following 
day, and the expedition proceeded on its voyage. When 
passing the little Danish settlement of Upernavick, they 
were boarded by natives for the first time. They were 
out in government whale-boats, hunting for ducks and 
seals. These hardy children of the Arctic Circle were 
not shy, for through the Danes, the English whalers,and 
government expeditions, they had become acquainted 
with men of other latitudes. 

When the expedition reached Melville Bay, which, 
on account of its fearful character, is also called the 
DeviVs Nip^ the voyagers began to witness more of 
the grandeur and perils of arctic scenes. Icebergs of 



THE A^IEKICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION. 367 

all dimensions came bearing down from the Polar seas, 
like vast squadrons, and the roar of their rending came 
over the waters like the booming of heavy broadsides 
of contending navies. They also encountered immense 
floes, with only narrow channels between, and at times 
their situation was exceedingly perilous. On one occa- 
sion, after heaving through fields of ice for five consecu- 
tive weeks, two immense floes, between which they 
were making their way, gradually approached each 
other, and for several hours they expected their tiny 
vessels — tiny when compared with the mighty objects 
around them — would be crushed. An immense calf 
of ice, six or eight feet thick, slid under the Rescue, 
lifting her almost " high and dry," and careening her 
partially upon her beam ends. By means of ice-an- 
chors, (large iron hooks,) they kept her from capsizing. 
In this position they remained about sixty hours, when, 
with saws and axes, they succeeded in relieving her. 
The ice now opened a little, and they finally warped 
through into clear water. While they were thus con- 
iined, polar bears came around them in abundance, 
greedy for prey, and the seamen indulged a little in the 
perilous sports of l^e chase. 

The open sea continued but a short time, when they 
•again became entangled among bergs, floes, and hum- 
mocks, and encountered the most fearful perils. Some- 
times they anchored their vessels to icebergs, and some- 
times to floes or masses of hummock. On one of these 
occasions, while the cook, an active Frenchman, was 
upon a berg, making a place for an anchor, the mass of 
ice split beneath him, and he was dropped through the 
yawning fissure into the Water, a distance of almost 
liiirty feet. Fortunately the masses, as is often the 
case, did not close up again, but floated apart, and the 
poor cook was hauled on board more dead than alive, 
from excessive fright. It was in this fearful region that 
they first encountered pack-ice, and there they were 
locked in from the 7th to the 23d of July. During that 
time they were joined by the yacht Prince Albert, com- 
manded bv Captain Forsvth, of the Royal ISTavy, and 

24 



^68 PKOGKESS OF AEOTIC DISCOVERY. 

together the three vessels were anchored, for a while, 
to an immense field of ice, in sight of the Devil's 
Thumb, That high, rocky peak, situated in latitude 
74P 22', was about thirty miles distant, and with the 
dark hills adjacent, presented a strange aspect where 
all was white and glittering. The pack and the hills 
are masses of rock, with occasionally a lichen or a moss 
growing upon their otherwise naked surfaces. In the 
midst of the vast ice-field loomed up many lofty bergs, 
all of them in motion — slow and majestic motion. 

From the Devil's Thumb the American vessels passed 
onward through the pack toward Sabine's Islands, while 
the Prince j^lbert essayed to make a more westerly 
course. They reached Cape York at the beginning of 
August. Far across the ice, landward, they discovered, 
through their glasses, several men, apparently making 
signals ; and for a while they rejoiced in the belief thai 
they saw a portion of Sir John Franklin's companions. 
Four men, (among whom was our sailor-artist,) were 
dispatched with a whale-boat to reconnoiter. They sook 
discovered the men to be Esquimaux, who, by signs, 
professed great friendship, and endeavored to get the 
voyagers to accompany them to their homes beyond 
the hills. They declined ; and as soon as they returned 
to the vessel, the expedition again pushed forward, and 
made its way to Cape Dudley Digges, which they 
reached on the Tth of August. 

At Cape Dudley Digges they were charmed by the 
sight of the Crimson Cliffs, spoken of by Captain Pany 
and other arctic navigators. These are lofty cliffs of 
dark brown stone, covered with snow of a rich crimson 
color. It was a magnificent sight in that cold region, 
to see such an apparently warm object standing out in 
bold relief against the dark blue back-ground of a polar 
sky. This was the most northern point to which the 
expedition penetrated. The whole coast which they 
had passed from Disco to this cape is high, rugged, and 
barren, only some of the low points, stretching into the 
sea, bearing a species of dwarf fir. E'ortheast from 
the cape rise the Arctic Tlighlands, to an unknown alti- 



^ 




J I 



i 



THE AMEKICAK AKCTIC EXPEDITION. SfSh 

tude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored 
Smith's Sound, filled with impenetrable ice. 

From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Ees- 
cue, beating against wind and tide in the midst of the 
ice-fields, made "Wolstenholme Sound, and then chang- 
ing their course to the southwest, emerged from the 
fields into the open waters of Lancaster Sound. Here, 
on the 18th of August, they encountered a tremendous 
gale, which lasted about twenty-four hours. The two 
vessels parted company during the storm, and remained 
separate several days. Across Lancaster Sound, the 
Advance made her way to Barrow's Straits, and on the 
22d discovered the Prince Albert on the southern shore 
of the straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty, 
precipitous rocks, dark and barren, and hooded and 
draped with snow. The weather was fine, and soon 
the officers and crews of the two vessels met in friendly 
greeting. Those of the Prince Albert were much as- 
tonished, for they (being towed by a steamer,) left the 
Americans in Melville Bay on the 6th, pressing north- 
ward through the pack, and could not conceive how 
they so soon and safely penetrated it. Captain For- 
syth had attempted to reach a particular point, where 
he intended to remain through the winter, but finding 
the passage thereto completely blocked up with ice, he 
had resolved, on the very day when the Americans ap- 
peared, to " 'bout ship," and return home. This fact, 
and the disappointment felt by Mr. Snow, are mentioned 
in our former article. 

The two vessels remained together a day or two, 
(vhen they parted company, the Prince Albert to re- 
airn home, and the Advance to make further explora- 
tions. It was off Leopold Island, on the 22d of Au- 
gust, that the " mad Yankee " took the lead through the 
vast masses of floating ice, so vividly described by Mr. 
Snow, and so graphically portrayed by the sailor-artist. 
" The way was before them," says Mr. Snow, who stood 
upon the deck of the Advance ; " the stream of ice had 
to be either gone through boldly, or a long detoiir made; 
and, despite the heaviness of the stream, fAey pushed 



370 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

the vessel through in her proper course. Two or three 
ehocks, as she came in contact with some large pieces, 
were unheeded ; and the moment the last block was 
past the bow, the officer sung out, ' So : steady as she 
goes on her course ;' and came aft as if nothing more 
than ordinary sailing had been going on. I observed 
our own little bark nobly following in the American's 
wake ; and as I afterward learned, she got through it 
pretty well, though not without much doubt of the pro- 
priety of keeping on in such j)rocedure after the ' mad 
Yankee,' as he was called by our mate." 

From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the 
northwest, and on the 25th reached Cape Riley, an 
other amorphous mass, not so regular and precipitate^ 
as Leopold Island, but more lofty. Here a strong tide, 
setting in to the shore, drifted the Advance toward the 
beach, where she stranded. Around her were small 
bergs and large masses of floating ice, all under the 
influence of the strong current. It was about two 
o'clock in the afternoon when she struck. By diligent 
labor in removing every thing from her deck to a small 
floe, she was so lightened, that at four o'clock the next 
morning she floated, and soon every thing was properly 
replaced. 

JS'ear Cape Riley the Americans fell in with a por- 
tion of an English Expedition, and there also the 
Rescue, left behind in the gale in Lancaster Sound, 
overtook the Advance. There was Captain Penny 
with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the veteran Sir 
John Ross, with the Felix, and Commodore Austin, 
with the Resolute steamer. Together the navigators 
of ])oth nations explored the coast at and near Cape 
Riley, and on the 27th they saw in a cove on the shore 
of Beechey Island, or Beechey Cape, on the east side of 
the entrance to Wellington Channel, unmistakable evi 
dence that Sir John Franklin and his companions were 
there in April, 1846. There they found many articles 
known to belong to the British Kavy, and some that 
were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships 
under the command of Sir Johii. There lay, bleach<*d 



THE AJilEEICAN Ai.CTiC EXPEI.)rno:N . 



371 




to the whiteness of the surrounding snow, a piece of 
canvas, with the name of the Terror, marked upon it 
with indestructible charcoal. It was very faint, yet 
perfectly legible. ITear it was a 
guide board, lying flat upon its 
face, having been prostrated by 
the wind. It had evidently been 
used to direct exploring parties to 
the vessels, or rather, to the en- 
campment on shore. The board 
was pine, thirteen inches in length 
and six and a half in breadth, and 
nailed to a boarding pike eight 
feet in length. It is supposed 
that the sudden opening of the 
ice, caused Sir John to depart 
hastily, and in so doing, this pike 
and its board were left behind. 
They also found a large number 
of tin canisters, 
such as are used 
for packing meats 
for a sea voyage; an 
anvil block ; rem- 
nants of clothing, 
which evinced, by 
numerous patches 
and their thread- 
bare character,that 
they had been worn 
as long as the own- 
ers could keep them anvil block. guide board. 
on ; the remains of an India Rubber glove, lined with 
wool ; some old sacks ; a cask, or tub, partly filled with 
charcoal, and an unfinished rope-mat, which, like other 
fibrous fabrics, was bleached white. 

But the most interesting, and at the same time most 
melancholy traces of the navigators, were three graves, 
in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the head, 
bearing the name of the sleeper below. These inscrip- 



372 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVER T. 

tions testify positively when Sir John and his compan- 
ions were there. The board at the head of the grave 
on the left has the following inscription : 

" Sacred to the memory of John Torrington, who 
departed this life, January 1st, a d., 1846, on board 
her Majesty's ship Terror, aged 20 years." 

On the center one — " Sacred to the memory of 
eloHN Hartnell, a. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus; 
died, January 4:th, 1846, aged 25 years. ' Thus saith 
the Lord of Hosts, Consider your ways ;' Haggai, chap. 
i. 5, 7." 

On the right — " Sacred to the memory of W. Braine, 
R. M., of her Majesty's ship Krebus, who died April 3d, 
1846, aged 32 years. ' Choose you this day whom you 
will serve :' Joshua, chap, xxiv., part of the 16th verse." 




THREE GRAVES AT BEECHEY. 

How much later than April 3d (the date upon the 
last-named head-board,) Sir John remained atBeechey, 
can not be determined. They saw evidences of his 
having gone northward, for sledge tracks in that di- 
rection were visible. It is the opinion of Dr. Kane 
that, on the breaking up of the ice, in the spring. Sir 
John passed northward with his ships through Welling- 
ton Channel, into the great Polar basin, and that he 
did not return. This, too, is the opinion of Captain 
Penny, apd he zealously urges the British government 
to ^end a poweifiil screw tjfeamer to pass tbrongli tha^ 



THE AJyLEmCAN AiiCTIC EXPEDITION. 373 

channel, and explore the theoretically more hospitable 
coasts beyond. This will doubtless be undertaken 
another season, it being the opinions of Captains Parry, 
Beechey, Sir John Ross, and others, expressed at a con- 
ference with the board of Admiralty, in September, that 
the season was too far advanced to attempt it the pres- 
ent year. Dr. Kane, in a letter to Mr. Grinnell, since 
the return of the expedition, thus expresses his opin- 
ion concerning the safety of Sir John and his com- 
panions. After saying, "I should think that he is 
now to be sought for north and west of Cornwallis 
Island," he adds, " as to the chance of the destruction 
of his party by the casualties of ice, the return of our 
own party after something more than the usual share 
of them, is the only fact that I can add to what we 
knew when we set out. The hazards from cold and 
privation of food may be almost looked upon as sub- 
ordinate. The snow-hut, the fire and light from the 
moss-lamp fed with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the 
white whale, and occasionally abundant stores of mi- 
gratory birds, would sustain vigorous life. The scurvy, 
the worst visitation of explorers deprived of perma- 
nent quarters, is more rare in the depths of a polar 
winter, than in the milder weather of the moist sum- 
mer; and our two little vessels encountered both 
seasons without losing a man." 

Leaving Beechey Cape, our expedition forced its way 
through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly 
escaped being frozen in for the winter. They endeav- 
ored to enter the Inlet, for the purpose of making it 
their winter quarters, but were prevented by the mass 
of pack-ice at its entrance. It was on the 4th of Sep- 
tember, 1850, when they arrived there, and after re- 
maining seven or eight days, they abandoned the 
attempt to enter. On the right and left of the above 
picture, are seen the dark rocks at the entrance of the 
Inlet, and in the center of the frozen waters and the 
range of hills beyond. There was much smooth ice 
within the Inlet, and while the vessels lay anchored 
to the " field," officers and crew exercised and amused 



374 PE0GKES8 OF ARCTIC DISGOVEKY. 

themselves by skating. On the left of the Inlet, (in 
dicated by the dark conical object,) they discovered a 
Cairn, (a heap of stones with a cavity,) eight or ten 
feet in height, which was erected by Captain Ommaney 
of the English Expedition then in the polar waters. 
Within it he had placed two letters, for " Whom it 
might concern." Commander De Haven also depos- 
ited a letter there. It is believed to be the only post- 
office in the world, fi'ee for the use of all nations. The 
rocks, here, presented vast fissnres made by the frost ; 
and at the foot of the cliff on the right that powerful 
agent had cast down vast heaps of debris. 

From Barlow's Inlet, our expedition moved slowly 
westward, battling with the ice every rood of the way, 
until they reached Griffin's Island, at about 96° west 
longitude from Greenwich. This was attained on the 
11th, and was the extreme westing made by the expe- 
dition. AH beyond seemed impenetrable ice ; and, 
despairing of making any further discoveries before the 
winter should set in, they resolved to return home. 
Turning eastward, they hoped to reach Davis' Strait 
by the southern route, before the cold and darkness 
came on ; but they were doomed to disappointment. 
]^ear the entrance to Wellington Channel they became 
completely locked in by hummock-ice, and soon found 
themselves drifting with an irresistible tide up that 
channel toward the pole. 

"Now began the most perilous adventures of the navi- 
gators. The summer day was drawing to a close ; the 
diurnal visits of the pale sun were rapidly shortening, 
and soon the long polar night, with all its darkness and 
horrors, would fall upon them. Slowly they drifted in 
those vast fields of ice, whither, or to what result, they 
knew not. Locked in the moving yet comfpact mass ; 
liable at every moment to be crushed ; far away from 
land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower from 
the zero figure, toward the point where that metal 
freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again. 
Yet they prepared for winter comforts and winter sports, 
as cheerfully as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet. As the 



THE AMEEICAJST AECTTIO EXPEDITICN. 375 

<7inter advanced, the crews of both the vessels went on 
board the larger one. They unshipped the rudders of 
each, to prevent their being injured by the ice, covered 
the deck of the Advance with felt, prepared their stores, 
and made arrangements for enduring the long winter, 
now upon them. Physical and mental activity being 
necessary for the preservation of health, they daily ex- 
ercised in the open air for several hours. They built 
ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and the little polar 
foxes, and when the darkness of the winter night had 
spread over them they arranged in-door amusements 
and employments. 

Before the end of October, the sun made its appear- 
ance for the last time, and the awful polar night 
closed in. Early in November they wholly abandoned 
the Rescue, and both crews made the Advance their 
permanent winter home. The cold soon became in- 
tense ; the mercury congealed, and the spirit thermome- 
ter indicated 46° below zero ! Its average range was 
30° to 35°. They had drifted helplessly up Wellington 
Channel, almost to the latitude from whence Captain 
Penny saw an open sea, and which all believe to be 
the great polar basin, where there is a more genial 
clime than that which intervenes between the Arctic 
Circle and the Y5th degree. Here, when almost in 
eight of the open ocean, that mighty polar tide, with 
its vast masses of ice, suddenly ebbed, and our little 
vessels were carried back as resistlessly as before, 
through Barrow's Straits into Lancaster Sound! All 
this while the immense fields of hummock-ice were 
moving, and the vessels were in hourly danger of being 
crushed and destroyed. At length, while drifting 
through Barrow's Straits, the congealed mass, as if 
crushed together by the opposite shores, became more 
compact, and the Advance was elevated almost seven 
feet by the ^tern, and keeled two feet eight inches, star- 
board. In this position she remained, with very little 
alteration for ^ve consecutive months ; for, soon after 
entering Baffin's Bay in- the midst of the "winter, the 
ice became frozen in one immense tract, covering mil- 



376 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

lions of acres. Thus frozen in, sometimes more than a 
hundred miles from land, they drifted slowly along the 
southwest coast of Baffin's Bay, a distance of more than 
a tliousand miles from Wellington Channel. For eleven 
weeks that dreary night continued, and during that 
time the disc of the sun -svas never seen above the hori- 
zon. Yet nature w^as not wholly forbidding in aspect. 
Sometimes the Aurora Borealis would flash up still 
further north w^ard ; and sometimes Aurora Parhelia — 
mock suns and mock moons — would appear in varied 
beauty in the starry sky. Brilliant, too, were the north- 
ern constellations ; and when the real moon was at its 
full, it made its stately circuit in the heavens, without 
descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast 
piles of ice with a pale luster, almost as great as the 
morning twilights of more genial skies. 

Around the vessels the crews built a wall of ice ; and 
in ice huts they stow^ed away their cordage and stores 
to make room for exercise on the decks. They organ- 
ized a theatrical company, and amused themselves and 
the officers with comedy well performed. Behind the 
pieces of hummock each actor learned his part, and 
by means of calico they transformed tliemselves into 
female characters, as occasion required. These dramas 
were acted on the deck of the Advance, sometimes 
while the thermometer indicated 30° below zero, and 
actors and audiences highly enjoyed the fun. They 
also went in parties during that long night, fully armed, 
to hunt the polar bear, the grim monarch of the frozen 
l^orth, on which occasions they often encountered peril- 
ous adventures. They played at foot-ball, and exercised 
themselves in drawing sledges, heavily laden with pro- 
visions. 'Five hours of each twenty-four, they thus exer- 
cised in the open adr, and once a week each man washed 
his whole body in cold snow water. Seriouh sickness 
was consequently avoided, and the scturvy which at- 
tacked them soon yielded to remedies. 

Often during that fearful night, they expected the 
disaster of bavins^ their vessels crushed. All through 
November and December, before the ice became fast 



riiK a:^ikrican arctic kxi'kdition. 377 

tliey slei^t iu their clothes, with knapsacks on their 
backs, and sledges npon the ice, laden with stores, not 
knowing at what moment the vessels might be demol- 
ished, and themselves forced to leave them, and make 
their way toward land. On the 8th of December, and 
the 23d of January, they actually lowered their boats 
and stood upon the ice, for the crushing masses were 
making the timbers of the gallant vessel creak and its 
decks to rise in the center. They w^ere then ninety 
miles from land, and hope hardly whispered an encour- 
aging idea of life being sustained. On the latter occa- 
sion, when officers and crew stood upon the ice, with 
the ropes of their provision sledges in their hands, a 
terrible snow-drift came from the northeast, and intense 
darkness shrouded them. Had the vessel then been 
crushed, all must have perished. Eut God, who ruled 
the storm, also put forth His protecting, arm and saved 
them. 

Early in February the northern horizon began to be 
streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald of the ap- 
proaching king of day ; and on the 18th the disc of 
the sun first appeared above the horizon. As its golden 
rim rose above the glittering snow^-drifts and piles of 
ice, three hearty cheers went up from those hardy mar- 
iners, and they welcomed their deliverer from the 
chains of frost as cordially as those of old who chanted, 

" See ! the conquering hero comes, 
Sound the ti'umpet, beat the drums." 

Day after day it rose higher and higher, and while the 
pallid faces of the voyagers, bleached during that long 
night, darkened by its beams, the vast masses of ice 
began to yield to its fervid influences. The scurvy dis- 
appeared, and from that time, until their arrival home, 
not a man suffered from sickness. As they slowdy 
drifted through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indica- 
tions of brealdng up, the voyagers made preparations 
for sailing. The Kescue was re-occupied, (May 13th, 
1851,) and her stone-post, which had been broken by 
the ice in Barrow's Straits, was repaired. To accom- 
plish this, thev were oblic^ed to dig away the ice whicL 



378 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEKY. 

was from 12 to 14 feet thick around her, as represented 
in the engraving. They reshipped their rudders ; re- 
moved the felt covering ; placed their stores on deck, 
and then patiently awaited the disruption of the ice 
This event was very sudden and apj^alling. It began 
to give way on the 5th of June, and in the space of 
twenty minutes the whole mass, as far as the eye could 
reach, became one vast field of moving floes. On the 
10th of June, they emerged into open water, a little 
south of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 65° 30'. They 
immediately repaired to Godhaven, on the coast of 
Greenland, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the 
perils through which they had just passed, they once 
more turned their prows northward to encounter anew 
the ice squadrons of Bafiin's Bay. Again they trav- 
ersed the coast of Greenland to about the Y3d de- 
gree, when they bore to the westward, and on the 7tb 
and 8th of July, passed the English whaling fieet near 
the Dutch Islands. Onward they pressed through 
the accumulating ice to Baffin's Island, where, on 
the 11th, they were joined by the Prince Albert, then 
out upon another cruise. They continued in com- 
pany until the 3d of August, when the Albert departed 
for the westward, determined to try the more south 
em passage. Here again our expedition encountered 
vast fields of hummock-ice, and were subjected to the 
most imminent perils. The floating ice„as if moved by 
adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and reared 
upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels like monsters 
of the deep intent upon destruction. These masses 
broke in the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon 
the decks with terrible force, like rocks rolled over a 
plain by mountain torrents. The noise was fearful ; so 
deafening that the mariners could scarcely hear each 
other's voices. The sounds of»these rolling masses, to- 
gether with the rending of the icebergs floating near, 
and the vast floes, produced a din like the discharge of 
a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of battle. 
Finding the north and west closed against further 
progress, by impenetral)](^ ice. the brave T)e Haven was 




n 



THE AlilEEICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION. 379 

balked, and turning liis vessels homeward, they came 
out into an open sea, somewhat crippled, but not a 
plank seriously started. During a storm off the banks 
of l^ewfoundland, a thousand miles from New York, 
the vessels parted company. The Advance arrived 
safely at the E'avy Yard at Brooklyn on the 80th of 
September, and the Eescue joined her there a few days 
afterward. Toward the close of October, the govern- 
ment resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Grin- 
nell, to be used in other service, but with the stipulation 
that they are to be subject to the order of the Secretary 
of the E'avy in the spring, if required for another 
expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. 

We have thus given a very brief account of the prin- 
cipal events of interest connected with the American 
Arctic Expedition ; the officers of which will doubtless 
publish a more detailed narrative. Aside from the suc- 
cess which attended our little vessels in encountering the 
perils of the polar seas, there are associations which must 
forever hallow the effort as one of the noblest exhibitions 
of the true glory of nations. The navies of America and 
England have before met upon the ocean, but they met 
for deadly strife. Now, too, they met for strife, equally 
determined, but not with each other. They met in the 
holy cause of benevolence and human sympathy, to 
battle with the elements beneath the Arctic Circle ; and 
the chivalric heroism which the few stout hearts of the 
two nations displayed in that terrible conflict, redounds 
a thousand-fold more to the glory of the actors, their 
governments, and the race, than if four-score ships, 
with ten thousand armed men had fought for the mas- 
tery of each other upon the broad ocean, and battered 
hulks and marred corpses had gone down to the coral 
caves of the sea, a dreadful offering to the demon of 
Discord. In the latter event, troops of widows and or- 
phan children would have sent up a cry of wail ; now, 
the heroes advanced manfully to rescue husbands and 
fathers to restore them to their wives and children. 
How glorious the thought ! and how suggestive of the 
beauty of that fast approaching day, when tha nHtlw^ 



380 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCO HiRY. 

shall sit down in peace as united children of ono 
household. 



Winter in the Arctic Ocean. 

The following narrative, showing the way the wintei 
of 1851-52 was passed by those engaged in the recent 
arctic expedition, is from the official report made by 
Lieut. De Haven, the Commander of the expedition : 

" On the morning of the 13th Sept., 1850, the wind 
having moderated sufficiently, we got under way, and 
working om- way through some streams of ice, arrived 
in a few hours at ' Griffith's ' Island, under the lee of 
which we found our consort made fast to the shore, 
where she had taken shelter in the gale, her crew hav- 
ing sufiered a good deal from the inclemency of the 
weather. In bringing to under the lee of the island, 
she had the misfortune to spring her rudder, so that on 
joining us, it was with much difficulty she could steer. 
To insure her safety and more rapid progress, she was 
taken in tow by the Advance, when she bore up with 
a fine breeze from the westward. Off Cape Martyr, 
we left the English squadron imder Capt. Austin. 
About ten miles further to the east, the two vessels un- 
der Capt. Penny, and that under Sir John Ross, were 
seen secured near the land. At 8 p. m.. we had ad- 
vanced as far as Cape Hotham. Thence as far as the 
increasing darkness of the night enabled us to see, there 
was nothing to obstruct our progress, except the bay 
ice. This, with a good breeze, would not have im- 
peded us much ; but unfortunately the wind, when it was 
most required, failed us. The snow, with which the 
surface of the water was covered, rapidly cemented, 
and formed a tenacious coat, through which it was im- 
possible with all our appliances to force the vessels. At 
8 p. M., they came to a dead stand, some ten miles to 
the east of Barlow's Inlet. 

"The following day the wind hauled to the southward, 
from which quarter it lasted till the 19th. During this 
period the young ice was broken, its edges squeezed ur> 



WI^TIOK IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 3S1 

like hammocks, and one floe overrun by another until 
it all assumed the appearance of heavy ice. The ves- 
sels received some heavy ni])s from it, but they with- 
stood them without injury. Whenever a pool of water 
made its appearance, every effort was made to reach it, 
in hopes that it would lead us into Beech ey Island, or 
some other place w^here the vessel might be placed in 
security ; for the winter set in unusually early, and the 
severity with which it commenced, forbade all hopes 
of our being able to return this season. I now" became 
anxious to attain a j)oint in the neighborhood, from 
whence by means of land ]Darties, in the sj^ring, a goodly 
extent of "Wellington Channel might be examined. 

" In the mean time, under the influence of the south 
wind, we were being set up the channel. On the 18th 
we were above Cape Eowden, the most northern point 
seen on this shore by Parry. The land on both shores 
was seen much further, and trended considerably to the 
west of north. To account for this drift, the fixed ice 
of Wellington Channel, which we had observed in pass- 
ing to the westward, must have been broken up and 
driven to the southward by the heavy gale of the 12th. 
On the 19th the wind veered to the north, which gave 
us a southerly set, forcing us at the same time with the 
western shore. This did not last long ; for the next day 
the wind hauled again to the south, and blew fresh, 
bringing the ice in upon us with much pressure. At 
midnight it broke up all aroimd us, so that we had work 
to maintain the Advance in a safe position, and keep 
her from being separated from her consort, which was 
immovably fixed in the center of a large floe. 

" We continued to drift slowly to the IST. IST. W., until 
the 22d, when our progress appeared to be arrested by 
a small low island, which was discovered in that direc- 
tion, about seven miles distant. A channel of three or 
four miles in width separated it from Cornwallis Island. 
This latter island, trending N. W. from our position, 
terminated abruptly in an elevated cape, to which I 
have given the name of Manning, after a warm per- 
sonal friend and ardent supporter of the expedition. 



382 PRoaEEss of aPwCtio discovert. 

Between Cornwallis Island and some distant high land 
visible in the north, appeared a wide channel leading 
to the westward. A dark, misty-looking clond which 
hung over it, (technically termed frost-smoke,) was in- 
dicative of much open water in that direction. This 
was the direction in which my instructions, referring to 
the investigations of the National Observatory, concern- 
ing the winds and currents of the ocean, directed me to 
look for open water. ISTor was the open water the only 
indication that presented itself in confirmation of this 
theoretical conjecture as to a milder climate in that 
direction. As we entered Wellington Channel, the 
signs of animal life became more abundant, and Cap- 
tain Penny, commander of one of the English expe- 
ditions, who afterward penetrated on sledges much 
toward the region of the ' frost-smoke,' much further 
than it was possible for us to do in our vessels reported 
that he actually arrived on the borders of this open sea. 
" Thus, these admirably drawn instructions, deriving 
arguments from the enlarged and comprehensive sys- 
tem of physical research, not only pointed with em- 
phasis to an unknown sea into which Franklin had 
probably found his way, but directed me to search for 
traces of his expedition in the very channel at the 
entrance of which it is now ascertained he had passed 
his first winter. The direction in which search with 
most chances of success is now to be made for the 
missing expedition, or for traces of it, is no doubt in 
the direction Which is so clearly pointed out in my in- 
structions. To the channel which appeared to lead 
into the open sea over which the cloud of ' frost-smoke ' 
hung as a sign, I have given the name of Maury, after 
the distinguished gentleman at the head of our;]Srationail 
Observatory, whose theory with regard to an open sea 
to the north is likely to be realized through this chan- 
nel. To the large mass of land visible between E". "W. 
to ]Sr. IN". E., I gave the name of Grinnell, in honor of 
the head and heart of the man in whose philanthropic 
mind originated the idea of this expedition, and *« 
whose munificence it owes its existence. 



WINTER IN THE AKCTIC OCEAN. 383 

" To a remarkable peak bearing [N*. JST. E. from ns, 
distant about forty miles, was given tbe name of 
Mount Franklin. An inlet or harbor immediately to 
the north of Cape Bowden was discovered by Mr. 
Griffin in his land excursion from Point Innes, on the 
27th of August, and has received the name of Griffin 
Inlet. The small island mentioned before was called 
Murdaugh's Island, after the acting master of the Ad- 
vance. The eastern shore of Wellington Channel ap- 
peared, to run parallel with the western, but it became 
quite low, and being covered with snow, could not be 
distinguished with certainty, so that its continuity with 
the high land to the north was not ascertained. Some 
small pools of open water appearing near us, an attempt 
was made about fifty yards, but all our combined 
efforts were of no avail in extricating the Rescue from 
her icy cradle. A change of wind not only closed the 
ice up again, but threatened to give a severe nip. "We 
unshipped her rudder and placed it out of harm's way. 

" September 22d, was an uncomfortable day. The 
wind was from IST. E. with snow. From an early hour 
in the morning, the floes began to be pressed together 
with so much force that their edge was thrown up in 
immense ridges of rugged hummocks. The Advance 
was heavily nipped between two floes, and the ice was 
piled up so high above the rail on the starboard side 
as to threaten to come on board and sink us with its 
weight. All hands were occupied in keeping it out. 
The pressure and commotion did not cease till near 
midnight, when we were very glad to have a respite 
from our labors and fears. The next day we were 
threatened with a similar scene, but it fortunately 
ceased in a short time. For the remainder of Septem- 
ber, and until the 4:th of October, the vessels drifted 
but little. The winds were very light, the thermometer 
fell to minus 12, and ice formed over the pools in sight, 
sufficiently strong to travel upon. "We were now 
strongly impressed with the belief that the ice had be- 
come fixed for the winter, and that we should be able 
to send out traveling parties from the advanced position 

26 



384 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOTEEY. 

for the examination of the lands to the r^orthward 
Stimulated by this fair prospect, another attempt wan 
made to reach the shore in order to establish a depo^ 
of provisions at or near Cape Manning, which would 
materially facilitate the progress of om- parties in thp 
spring ; but the ice was still found to be detached from 
the shore, and a narrow lane of water cut us from it. 

" During the interval of comparative quiet, prelimi- 
nary measures were taken for heating the Advance 
and increasing her quarters, so as to accomodate the 
officers and crew of both vessels. 'No stoves had a? 
yet been used in either vessel ; indeed they could not 
well be put up without placing a large quantity of storeg 
and fuel upon the ice. The attempt was made to do 
this, but a sudden crack in the floe where it appeared 
strongest, causing the loss of several tons of coal, con- 
vinced us that it was not yet safe to do so. It was not 
until the 20th of October, we got fires below. Ten 
days later the housing cloth was put over, and the offi- 
cers and crew of the Rescue ordered on board the Ad- 
vance for the winter. Room was found on the deck of 
the Rescue for many of the provisions removed from 
the hold of this vessel. Still a large quantity had to 
be placed on the ice. The absence of fire below had 
caused much discomfort to all hands ever since the be- 
ginning of September, not so much from the low tem- 
perature, as from the accumulation of moisture by 
condensation, which congealed as the temperature de- 
creased, and covered the wood work of our apartments 
with ice. This state of things soon began to w^ork its 
eifect upon the health of the crews. Several cases of 
scurvy appeared among them, and notwithstanding the 
indefatigable attention and active treatment resorted to 
by the medical officers, it could not be eradicated — its 
progress, hovrever, was checked. 

"All through October and ]S"ovember, we were drifted 
to and fro by the changing wind, but never passing out 
of Wellington Channel. On the 1st of I^ovember, the 
new ice had attained the thickness of 37 inches. Still, 
frequent breaks would occur in it, often in fearful prox- 



WINTER IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 385 

unity to the vessels. Hummocks consisting of massive 
granite-like blocks, would be thrown up to the height 
of twenty, and even thirty feet. This action in the ice 
was accompanied with a variety of sounds impossible 
to be described, but when heard never failed to carry a 
feeling of awe into the stoutest hearts. In tlie stillness 
of an arctic night, they could be heard several miles, 
and often was the rest of all hands disturbed by them. 
To guard against the worst that could happen to us — ^ 
the destruction of the vessels — the boats were prepared 
and sledges built. Thirty days' provisions were placed 
in for all hands, together with tents and blanket bags 
for sleeping in. Besides this, each man and officer had 
his knapsack containing an extra suit of clothes. These 
were all kept in readiness for use at a.moment's notice. 
" For the sake of wholesome exercise, as well as to in- 
ure the people to ice traveling, frequent excursions were 
made with our laden sledges. The officers usually took 
the lead at the drag ropes, and they, as well as the men 
underwent the labor of surmounting the rugged hum- 
mocks, with great cheerfulness and zeal. I^otwith- 
standing the low temperature, all hands usually returned 
in a profuse perspiration. We had also other sources 
of exercise and amusements, such as foot-ball, skating, 
sliding, racing, with theatrical representations on holi- 
days and national anniversaries. These amusements 
were continued throughout the winter, and contributed 
very materially to the cheerfulness and general good 
Kealth of all hands. The drift had set us gradually to 
the S. E., until we were about five miles to the S. W. 
Df Beechey Island. In this position we remained com- 
paratively stationary about a week. "We once more 
began to entertain a hope that we had become fixed for 
the winter, but it proved a vain one, for on the last day 
of November a strong wind from the westward set in, 
with thick snowy weather. The wind created an im- 
mediate movement in the ice. Several fractures took 
place near us, and many heavy hummocks were thrown 
up. The floe in which our vessels were imbedded, was 
being rapidly encroached upon, so that we were in mo- 



SS6 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

mentary fear of the ice breaking from aronnd them, 
and that they would be once more broken out and left 
to the tender mercies of the crashing floes. 

"On the following day (the 1st' of December) the 
weather cleared off, and the few hours of twilight 
which *ve had about noon, enabled us to get a glimpse 
of the land. As well as we could make it out, we ap- 
peared to be off Gascoigne Inlet. Wq were now clear 
0of Wellington Channel, and in the fair way of Lan- 
caster Sound, to be set either up or down, at the mercy 
of the prevailing winds and currents. "We were not 
long left in doubt as to the direction we had to pursue. 
The winds prevailed fi'om the westward, and our drift 
was steady and rapid toward the mouth of the Sound. 
The prospect before us was now any thing but cheering. 
We were deprived of our last fond hope, that of be- 
coming fixed in some position whence operations could 
be carried on by means of traveling parties in the 
spring. The vessels were fast being set out of the 
region of search. 'Nor was this our only source of un- 
easiness. The line of our drift was from two to five 
miles from the north shore, and whenever the moving 
ice met with any of the ca])es or projecting points of 
land, the obstruction would cause fractures in it, ex- 
tending off to and far beyond us. Cape Ilurd was the 
first and most prominent point — we were bat two 
miles from it on the 3d of December. Nearly all day 
the ice was both seen and heard to be in constant mo- 
tion at no great distance from us. In the evening a 
crack on our floe took place not more than twenty -five 
yards ahead of the Advance. It opened in the course 
of the ev^ening to the width of 190 yards. 

" No further disturbance took place until noon of the 
5th, when we were somewhat startled by the familiar 
and unmistakable souiid of the ice grinding against 
the side of the ship. Going on deck, I perceived that 
another crack had taken ])lace, passing along the length 
of the vessel. It did not open more than a foot; this, 
however, was sufficient to liberate the vessel, and she 
rose several inclics bodily, having become more buoy- 



WINTER IN THE AECTIC OCEAN. 387 

aut since she froze in. The following day, in the 
evening the crack opened several yards, leaving the 
sides oY the Ad\ance entirely free, and she was once 
more snpported by and rode in her own element. We 
were not, though, by any means, in a pleasant situation. 
The floes were considerably broken in all directions 
around us, and one crack had taken place between the 
two vessels. The Rescue was not disturbed in her bed 
of ice. 

" December Tth, at 8 A. M., the crack in which we 
were, had opened and formed a lane of water fifty-six 
feet wide, communicating ahead at the distance of sixty 
feet with ice of about one foot in thickness, which had 
formed since the 3d. The vessel was secured to the 
largest floe near us (that on which our spare stores were 
deposited.) At noon, the ice was again in motion, 
and began to close, affording us the pleasant prospect 
of an inevitable nip between two floes of the heaviest 
kind. In a short time the prominent points took our 
side, on the starboard, just about the main-rigging, and 
on the port under the counter, and at the fore-rigging; 
thus bringing three points of pressure in such a position 
that it must^have proved fatal to a larger or less 
strengthened vessel. The Advance, however, stood it 
bravely. After trembling and groaning in every joint, 
the ice passed under and raised her about two and 
a half feet. She was let down again for a moment, 
and then her stern was raised about five feet. Her 
bows being unsupported, were depressed almost as 
much. In this uncomfortable position we remained. 
The wind blew a gale from the eastward, and the ice 
all around was in dreadful commotion, excepting, for- 
tunately, that in immediate contact with us. The com- 
motion in the ice continued all through the night; and 
we were in momentary expectation of the destruction 
of both vessels. The easterly gale had set us some 
two or three miles to the west. As soon as it was light 
enough to see on the 9th, it was discovered that the 
heavy ice on which the Eescue had been imbedded 
for so long a time, was entirely broken up, and piled 



385 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEKY. 

up around her in massive hummocks. On her pumps 
being sounded, I was gratified to learn that she remained 
tight, notwithstanding the immense straining and 
pressure she must have endured. 

•" During this period of trial, as well as in all former 
and subsequent ones, I could not avoid being struck 
with the calmness and decision of the officers, as well 
as the subordination and good conduct of the men, 
without an exception. Each one knew the imminence 
of the peril that surrounded us, and was prepared to 
abide it with a stout heart. There was no noise, no 
confusion. I did not detect, even in the moment when 
the destruction of the vessel seemed inevitable, a sin- 
gle desponding look among the whole crew ; on the 
contrary, each one seemed resolved to do his whole 
duty, and every thing went on cheerily and bravely. 
For my own part, I had become quite an invalid, so 
much so as to prevent my taking an active part in the 
duties of the vessel as I had always done, or even from 
incurring the exposure necessary to proper exercise. 
However, I felt no apprehensions that the vessel would 
not be properly taken care of, for I had perfect confi- 
dence in one and all by whom I was surrounded. I 
knew them to be equal to any emergency, but I felt 
under special obligations to the gallant commander 
of the Rescue, for the efficient aid he rendered me. 
With the kindest consideration, and the most cheerful 
alacrity, he volunteered to perform the executive duties 
during the winter, and relieve me from every thing 
that might tend in the least to retard my recovery. 

" During the remainder of December, the ice re- 
mained quiet immediately around us, and breaks were 
all strongly cemented by new ice. In our neighbor- 
hood, however, cracks were daily visible. Our drift 
to the eastward averaged nearly six miles per day ; so 
that on the last of the month we were at the entrance 
of the Sound, Cape Osborn bearing north from us. 

"January, 1851. — On passing out of the Sound, and 
opening Baffin's Bay, to the north was seen a dark hori- 
zon, indicating much open water in that direction. On 



WINTEE IN" THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 389 

the 11th, a crack took place between us and the Rescue, 
passing close under our stern, and forming a lane of 
water eighty feet wide. In the afternoon the floes be- 
gan to move, the lane was closed up, and the edges of 
the ice coming in contact with so much pressure, threat- 
ened the demolition of the narrow space which sepa- 
rated us from the line of fracture. Fortunately, the 
floes aga^n separated, and assumed a motion by which 
the Rescue passed from our stern to the port bow, and 
increased her distance from us 709 yards, where she 
came to a stand. Our stores that were on the ice were 
on the same side of the cracks as the Rescue, and of 
course were carried with her. The following day the 
ice remained quiet, but soon after midnight, on the 
13th, a gale having sprung up from the westward, it 
once more got into violent motion. The young ice in 
the crack near our stern was soon broken up, the edges 
of the thick ice camo in contact, and fearful pressures 
took place, forcing up a line of hummocks which ap- 
proached within ten feet of our stern. The vessel 
trembled and complained a great deal. 

" At last the floe broke up around us into many 
pieces, and became detached from the sides of the 
vessel. The scene of frightful commotion lasted until 
4 A. M. Every moment I expected the vessel would 
be crushed or overwhelmed by the massive ice forced 
up far above our bulwarks. The Rescue being further 
removed on the other side of the crack from the line 
of crushing, and being firmly imbedded in heavy ice, 
I was in hopes would remain undisturbed. This was 
not the case; for, on sending to her as soon as it was 
light enough to see, the floe was found to be broken 
away entirely up to her bows, and there formed into 
such high hummocks that her bowsprit was broken ofi^, 
together with her head, and all the light wood work 
about it. Had the action of the ice continued much 
longer, she must have been destroyed. We had the 
misfortune to find sad havoc had been made among 
the stores and provisions left on the ice ; and few bar- 
rels were recovered; but a large portion were crushed 
and had disappeared. 



390 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. 

" On the morning of the 14:tli there was again some 
motion in the floes. That on the port side moved off 
from the vessel two or three feet and there became 
stationary. This left the vessel entirely detached 
from the ice round the water line, and it was expected 
she would once more resume an upright position. In 
this, however, we were disappointed, for she remained 
with her stern elevated, and a considerable lift to star- 
board, being held in this uncomfortable position by the 
heavy masses which had been forced under her bottom 
She retained this position until she finally broke out 
in the spring. "We were now fully launched into Baf- 
fin's Bay, and our line of drift began to be more south- 
erly, assuming a direction nearly parallel with the 
western shore of the Bay at a distance of from 40 to 
'TO miles from it. 

" After an absence of 87 days, the sun, on the 29th 
of January, rose his whole diameter above the south- 
ern horizon, and remained visible more than an hour. 
All hands gave vent to delight on seeing an old friend 
again, in three hearty cheers. The length of the days 
now went on increasing rapidly, but no warmth was 
yet experienced from the sun's rays ; on the contrary 
the cold became more intense. Mercury became con- 
gealed in February, also in March, which did not occur 
at any other period during the winter. A very low 
temperature was invariably accompanied with clear 
and calm weather, so that our coldest days were per- 
haps the most pleasant. In the absence of wind, we 
could take exercise in the open air without any incon- 
venience from the cold. But with a strong wind blow 
ing, it was dangerous to be exposed to its chilling blasts 
for any length of time, even when the thermometer 
indicated a comparatively moderate degree of tem- 
perature. 

" The ice around the vessels soon became cemented 
again and fixed, and no other rupture was experienced 
until it finally broke up in the spring, and allowed us 
to escape. Still we kept driving to the southward 
along with the ai hole mass. Open lanes of water were 



XVINTEB IN THE ARCTIO OCEAH". 391 

visible at all times from aloft ; sometimes they would 
be formed within a mile or two of us. Narwhals, 
seals, aud dovekjs were seen in them. Our sports- 
men were not expert enough to procure any, except a 
few of the latter ; although they were indefatigable in 
their exertions to do so. Bears would frequently be 
seen prowling about ; only two were killed during the 
winter ; others were wounded, but made their escape. 
A few of us thought their flesh very palatable and 
wholesome ; but the majority utterly rejected it. The 
flesh of the seal, when it could be obtained^ was re- 
ceived with more favor. 

" As the season advanced, the cases of scurvy became 
more numerous, yet they were all kept undrjr control 
by the unwearied attention and skillful treatment of 
the medical officers. My thanks are due to them, es- 
pecially to Passed Assistant Surgeon Kane, the senior 
medical officer of the expedition. I often had occa- 
sion to consult him concerning the hygiene of the 
crew, and it is in a great measure owing to the advice 
which he gave and the expedients which he recom- 
mended, that the expedition was enabled to return 
without the loss of one man. By the latter end of 
February the ice had become sufficiently thick to en- 
able us to build a trench around the stern of the Res- 
cue, sufficiently deep to ascertain the extent of the 
injury she had received in the gale at Griffith's Isl- 
and. It was not found to be material ; the upper gud- 
geon alone had been wrenched from the stern post. It 
was adjusted, and the rudder repaired in readiness for 
shipping, when it should be required. A new bow- 
sprit was also made for her out of the few. spare spars 
we had left, and every thing made seaworthy in both 
vessels before the breaking up of the ice. 

"In May, the noon-day began to take effect upon the 
snow which covered the ice ; the surface of the floes 
became watery, and difficult to walk over. Still the 
dissolution was so slow in comparison with the mass 
to be dissolved, that it must have taken it a long pe- 
riod to become liberated from this cause alone. Moro 



392 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 

was expected from our southerly drift, wliicli still con- 
tinued, and must soon carry us into a milder climate 
and open sea. On the 19th of May, the land about 
Cape Searle was made out, the first that we had seen 
since passing Cape Walter Bathurst, about the 20th of 
January. A few days later we were oft' Cape "Walsing- 
ham, and on the 27th, passed out of the Arctic Zone. 

"On the 1st of April, a hole was cut in some ice that 
had been forming since our first besetment in Septem- 
ber; it was found to have attained the thickness of 7 
feet 2 inches. In this month, (April,) the amelioration 
of the temperature became quite sensible. All hands 
were kept at work, cutting and sawing the ice around 
the vessels, in order to allow them to float once more. 
With the Kescue, they succeeded, after much labor, in 
attaining this object ; but around the stern of the Ad- 
vance, the ice was so thick that our 13 feet saw was too 
short to pass through it ; her bows and sides, as far aft 
as the gangway, were liberated. After making some 
alteration in the Rescue for the better accommodation 
of her crew, and fires being lighted on board of her 
several days previous, to remove the ice and dampness, 
which had accumulated during the winter, both ofiicers 
and crew were transferred to her on the 24:th of April. 
The stores of this vessel, which had been taken out, 
were restored, the housing cloth taken off, and the ves- 
sel made in every respect ready for sea. There was 
little prospect, however, of our being able to reach the 
desired element very soon. The nearest water was a 
narrow lane more than two miles distant. To cut 
through the ice ^vhich intervened, would have been next 
to impossible. Beyond this lane, from the mast-head, 
nothing but intermediate floes could be seen. It was 
thought best to wait with patience, and allow nature to 
work for us. 

" June 6th, a moderate breeze from S. E. with pleasant 
weather — thermometer up to 40 at noon, and altogether 
quite warm and melting day. During the morning a 
peculiar cracking sound was heard on the floe. I was 
inclined to impute it to the settling of the snow drifts as 



WINTER IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 393 

they were acted iij^on by tlie sun, but in the afternoon, 
about 5 o'clock, the puzzle was solved very lucidly, and 
to the exceeding satisfaction of all hands. A^ crack in. 
the floe took place between us and the Rescue, and in 
a few minutes thereafter, the whole immense iield in 
which we had been imbedded for so many -months, 
was rent in all directions, leaving not a j^iece of 100 
yards in diameter. The rupture was not accompanied 
with any noise. The Rescue was entirely Ulcerated, 
the Advance only partially. The ice in which her after 
part was imbedded, still adhered to her from the main 
chains aft, keeping her stern elevated in its unsightly 
position. The j^ack, (as it may now be called,) became 
quite loose, and but for our pertinacious friend acting 
as an immense drag upon us, we might have made 
some headway in anj^ desired direction. All our eftbrts 
were now turned to getting rid of it. With saws, axes, 
and crowbars, the people went to work with a right 
good will, and after hard labor for 48 hours succeeded. 
The vessel was again afloat, and she righted. The joy 
of all hands vented itself spontaneously in three hearty 
cheers. The after part of the false keel was gone, be- 
ing carried away by the ice. The loss of it, however, 
I was glad to perceive, did not materially affect the 
sailing or working qualities of the vessel. The rudders 
were shipped, and we were once more ready to move, 
as eflicient as on the day we left New York. 

"Steering to the S. E. and working slowly through the 
loose but heavy pack, on the 9tli we parted from the 
Rescue in a dense fog, she taking a different lead from 
the one the Advance was pursuing." 



394 pkogkess of aectio discovert. 

Latest Accounts — Geound foe Hope. 

Mr. Wm. Penny, of Aberdeen, states in a letter to 
the Times, that Capt. Martin, who, when commanding 
the whaler Enterprise, in 1845, was the last person to 
communicate with Sir. J. Franklin, has just informed 
him that the Enterprise was alongside the Erebus, in 
Melville Bay, and Sir John Franklin invited him, 
(Capt. Martin,) to dine with him, which the latter de- 
clined doing, as the wind was fair to go south. Sir 
John, while conversing with Capt. Martin, told him 
that he had &vq years' provisions, which he could 
make last seven, and his people were busily engaged 
in salting down birds, of which they had several casks 
full already, and twelve men were out shooting more. 
"To see such determination and foresight," observes 
Mr. Penny, " at that early period, is really wonderful, 
and must give us the greatest hopes." Mr. Penny 
says that Capt. Martin is a man of fortune, and of the 
strictest integrity. 

The following is the deposition of Capt. Martin, just 
received in the London Times, of Jan. 1, 1852, con- 
taining the facts above alluded to : 

Robert Martin, now master and commander of the 
whaleship Intrepid, of Peterhead, solemnly and sin- 
cerely declares that on the 22d day of July, 1845, when 
in command of the whale ship Enterprise, of Peter- 
head, in lat. TS*' 10', long. 66° W., calm weather, and 
towing, the Erebus and Terror were in company. These 
ships were alongside the Enterprise for about fifteen 
minutes. The declarant conversed with Sir John 
Franklin, and Mr. Reid, his ice-master. The conver- 
sation lasted all the time the ships were close. That 
Sir John, in answer to a question by the declarant if 
he had a good supply of provisions, and how long he 
expected them to last, stated that he had provisions 
for five years, and if it were necessary he could "make 
them spin out seven years ;" and he said further, that 
he would lose no opportunity of killing birds, and 
"Whatever else was useful that came in the way, to keep 



LATEST ACCOUNTS. 395 

up their stock, and tliat lie had plenty of powder and 
shot for the purpose. That Sir John also stated that 
lie had already several casks of birds salted, and had 
then two shooting parties out — one from each ship. 
The birds were very numerous ; many would fall at a 
single shot, and the declarant has himself killed forty 
at a shot with white pease. That the birds are very 
agreeable food, are in taste and size somewhat like 
young pigeons, and are called by the sailors " rotges." 

That on the 26th or 28th of said month of July, two 
parties of Sir John's officers, who had been out shoot- 
ing, dined with the declarant on board the Enterprise. 
There was a boat with six from each ship. Their con- 
versation was to the same effect as Sir John's. They 
spoke of expecting to be absent four or five, or per- 
haps six years. These officers also said that the ships 
would winter where they could find a convenient place, 
and in spring push on as far as possible, and so on 
year after year, as the determination was to push on 
as far as practicable. 

That on the following day, an invitation was brought 
to the declarant, verbally, to dine with Sir John, but 
the wind shifted, and the Enterprise having cut through, 
the ice about a mile and a half, the declarant was 
obliged to decline the invitation. That he saw the 
Erebus and Terror for two days longer; they were 
still lying at an iceberg, and the Enterprise was mov- 
ing slowly down the country. That so numerous were 
the birds mentioned, and so favorable was the weather 
for shooting them, that a very large number must have 
been secured during the time the declarant was in 
eight of the two ships. The Prince of Wales whaler 
was also within sight during the most of the time. 
Chat from the state of the wind and weather for a pe- 
riod of 10 days, during part of which the declarant 
>vas not in sight of the two ships, the best opportunity 
was afforded for securing the birds. That the birds 
described are not to be found at all places on the fish- 
ing ground during the whaling season, but are met 
with in vast numbers every season on certain feeding 



396 



PKOGEESS OF ABCTIO DISCOVEKT. 



banks and places for brooding, and it appeared at the 
time by the declarant to be a most fortunate circum- 
stance that the Erebus and Terror had fallen in with 
so many birds, and that the state of the weather was 
so favorable for securing large numbers of them. The 
declarant has himself had a supply of the same de- 
scription of birds, which kept fresh and good during 
three months, at Davis' Strait, and the last were as 
good as the first of them. 

"Which declaration, above written, is now made 
conscientiously, believing the same to be true. 

Robert Mabtin. 

Declared, December, 29th, 1851, before 

E-. Geath, Provost of Peterhead. 

From this it would appear that it is not impossible, 
perhaps not improbable, that Sir John Franklin may 
yet make his appearance, coming down from those ice- 
bound regions bringing with him his noble ships and 
their daring crews, and giving joy to thousands upon 
thousands who are watching with intense interest tlie 
unraveling of the mystery of his absence, and espe- 
cially bringing joy inexpressible to the heart of that 
noble lady, with which thousands of hearts throughout 
the civilized world beat in sympathy. 




SDNEY'S HISTORY OF AUSTRALIA.,, 



THREE COLOiirOF AUSTRALIA. 

MW SOUTH WALES, VICTORIA & SOUTH AUSTRALIA 

THEIK 

Pastures, Copper Mines & Gold Fields. 



BY SAMUEL SIDNEY. 
,~^^ 

Ten Illustrations. Mnslin, 408 pp 12mo. Price $lj25. 



Brief Extracts from Notices of the Press. 



It is well written, well printed, and -worth tlie attention of all Americans who would 
turn their faces towards Australia. — AT. Y. Times. 

"We have been greatly interested in the work — so much so, indeed, that we could 
not satisfy ourselves without going through with it entire. — ^. Y. Bap. Reg, 

The position of the author, and the unquestionable sources from which he draws his 
information, affords the highest evidence that his details, historical, statistical and ge- 
ographical, are accurate and reliable. — N. Y. Jour, of Knowledge. 

The work above named is not only very lively and interesting, but having been pre- 
pared by a gentleman who had access to the most reliable data, it furnishes just the infor- 
mation which everybody is in quest o^ and which must be invaluable to persons intend- 
ing to emigrate. — I^. Y. Org. 

This work affords an excellent opportunity for becoming thoroughly acquainted with 
Australia and its mines, for the writer is evidently a man of intelligence, and speaks from 
actual, personal observation. — Amei icam, Courier. 

To the immigrant, the work will, it is believed, furnish a safe and full guide. — DdUar 
Newspaper. 

Though there have been more glowing pictures of Antipodal hTe, we have yet seen 
none that groups so many facts, and imparts so clear a view.— iV^. Y. Evangelist. 

The information embodied in this work is just what is sought for by every one. — Rapine 
Daily Advocate. 

Mr. Sidney has in this work given to the world a volume of varied and useful infor- 
mation concerning the Australian El Dorado. — Detroit Advertiser. 

Those who wish to be informed in relation to Australia will find this volume complete 
in its information and exceedingly interesting in all its details. — Lowell Christian Era. 

This is a handsome 12mo of 408 pages, neatly illnstrated with engravings, abounding 
with every variety of interesting information respecting Australia. — Lutlieran Observer. 

Every intelligent reader will be deeply interested in the account of the truly phi- 
lanthropic labors of Mrs. CnissHOLM, who has contributed so largely to tho welfare of 
Australia, by the colonization of her own sex. — Yates Coicnty Whig, 

Published by MILLLR, ORTON" & MULLIGANS, 

Auburn and Buffalo, 



THE LIFE OF 

JOAK OF ARC, 

€\t piaii 0f Orleans. 

♦ 

BY D. W. BAETLETT, 

AUTHOR OF " LADY JANE GREY," "WHAT I SAW IN LONDON," ETC. 



Portrait on Steel. Mnslin, 221 pp 16mo. Price 75 Cents. 

* • 

Notices of tlie Press— Brief Extracts* 



It Is written and compiled in Bartletfs peculiar and popular style, and is a plain and 
authentic history of the Jife of the heroine of France. — OonneetictU Union. 

The view which the present biographer takes of her, shows her in a most attractive 
light, and the volume is eminently interesting throxxghout—Syracuse Eve. Ckrariicle. 

It possesses all the attraction of a romance, while it is a veritable and well authen- 
ticated history. — Chriatiait, Amhassador. 

This volume will be reaJ with interest and profit The story of Joan of Arc can 
never bo truthfully toM. without interest. — Auburn Daily Advertiser. 

Mr. Bartlott, though still a young man, has already signalized himself in the line of 
authorship. His style is easy and graceful, and he never attempts to gild the qualities 
of his heroes at the expense of truth — Christian Secretary. 

The life and adventures of the greatest heroine of history are graphically written.— 
Syra^cme Repvib. 

Every thing relating to Joan of Arc is of interest, and Mr. Bartlett has furnished a book 
which will be eagerly sought for, and Avhich will prove a rare treat to the reader. — Cayu» 
ga Chief. 

It contains an admirably written history of the French heroine, the facts having been 
caiefully collated from numerous authorities. — Dodge's Literary Musewm. 

The history before us is one of thrilling interest ; and so much so that we could not 
lay aside the book, until we had read it through. — Religious Herald, Hartford, Ct. 

We thank our neighbor Bartlett for having given so good a book to the reading publl*' 
It will be useful as well as entertaining.— ifari/orti Courant. 

Published by MILLER, ORTON & MULLIGAN, 

Aubur7i and Buffalo, 



